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  1. Very nicely done Josh, definitely a build to be proud of. Averaging maybe 5 hours a week, I doubt that I will have finished my Spray before maybe mid-winter, but who knows. Regardless of the pace, she is certainly a fun build. I'll be interested to see what you choose to build next. Happy Thanksgiving.
  2. Thanks Josh. I do like to use color sometimes to highlight detail, but I have to be careful not to overdo it and not stray too far from what has at least some chance of being historically accurate. As to the latter of course, as Nic mentioned on your log, we have to rely mostly on speculation when it comes to Spray, since there is so little authoritative material to rely on. Also, I stumbled upon your profile recently, and it appears that we are at opposite ends of the same state. I'm in Spokane.
  3. Nic, I did give some thought to vinyl tape, but not having any handy, I moved on thinking I'd come back to the idea, but I had kind of forgotten all about it. Thanks for suggesting it. Taping the water line would have the additional advantage of covering the occasional ragged edge I have now. Doing a little digging in these forums, Chartpak tape came up several times. And some suggest adding a coat of polyurethane or shellac to make sure it adheres indefinitely. Any recommendations on the subject?
  4. A note on my previous post (painting the hull). I had thought I was going to paint a waterline stripe, but seeing how the tape I used struggles with sharper curves, and foreseeing the difficulty of making two strips of tape manage those curves at a precise distance apart (say 3/32”), Spray will just have to do without a waterline stripe. I also realize that I approached that feature incorrectly. I should have started my painting with a black, imprecise but wider (say ¼”) stripe, then covered it with a single strip of tape of the chosen width, then painted white above the tape and anti-fouli
  5. Nic puts it so well. Filler, sanding and paint do wonders; they certainly conceal a lob of unsightly gaffs in my Spray build. When I look at the logs of people building hulls that will remain natural and unpainted, I'm just in awe of what they are able to do. Keep up the good work.
  6. Thanks for all the kind words of encouragement. I believe there are now five active Spray logs on these forums, and for every such log there have to be many boats being built by people who quietly sit on the sidelines or who aren't even aware that this website exists. I started my build a year ago so I can't say I was inspired by the Vendee Globe, but following the race now certainly puts an interesting perspective on Slocum's voyage. Or maybe it's the other way around. Working from home now due to the pandemic, between the race website open in a window behind what
  7. Nic, thanks from me too, because I was wondering the same thing. The fittings include a couple of large cleats, which I had planned to put on the deck a little forward of where you have the blocks for the steering apparatus. If not that, what are the cleats for and where do they go? Also with regard to the jib sheet, I had planned to attach a couple of blocks to the clew, start the sheets at the blocks on deck, run them up to the sheets blocks on the sail, and back to the blocks on deck before running aft. That jib seems like a lot of sail to pull in without the help of some blo
  8. Not many pictures in this post, but yesterday I reached a major milestone--I completed painting the hull. I put something like three coats of white on the entire hull, then followed with another three or four down to a bit below where the waterline would be. Then came masking the waterline. I made photocopies of the plans showing the bow and stern from the side, then cut out templates I could put up against the stem and stern. The waterline having thus been marked at each end, I used the gadget pictured below to connect the dots, so to speak. I must have bought t
  9. And I should have added that, yes, quite a few sessions of filling, sanding, filling again, sanding again . . .
  10. Thanks Josh. I used to use Bondo, which someone on one of these forums recommended years ago. It is actually an auto body finish product, but it works very well in this context too. However, it has really noxious fumes (my wife would be downstairs and at the other end of the house and would complain when I used it). More recently I've used Elmer's WoodFiller, which works very well too, without the fumes. I picked that up at Ace Hardware.
  11. A new, interesting challenge. I happened to notice while staring at the plans (something I find myself doing quite often) that the chainplates run against the hull underneath the rub rail and the cap rail. My immediate thought was “Oh [expletive deleted], I should have cut notches in those two rails before gluing them to the side of the hull.” But as I thought more about it, I wondered how difficult it might be to cut the notches exactly where needed in a boat-length strip of wood before it was attached to the hull, and would the notches weaken the strip where it needs to bend when glued to t
  12. So I left off having glued the rubrails in place, and giving some thought to the caprails. The outer caprails were pretty straightforward. . . . 1/16th by 3/32nd strips laid and glued against the hull. I chose to make them from a single strip, so that they would hopefully make a nice graceful curve matching the rub rails and the sheer line. Next I painted the inside of the bulwarks with Tamiya “Buff”, same color as the yet-to-be-installed waterways and the trim on the cabins. Before that I used a little wood filler on the bigger cracks in the bulwarks, but fou
  13. Really enjoying your posts Josh, and great work! You're at a point where you are passing me, and moving at a much faster pace. Now I get to learn from your challenges and good work. I finished the cap rail, got a few coats of paint on the rails and hull, and this morning I glued in the waterways (or margin planks). I will do another post within the next week or so. Your blog is in the correct forum--1850 to 1900. When they changed the forums around, mine got put incorrectly into post 1900 for some reason. Incidentally, my mask rake seems to have worked out correctly when locati
  14. I'm learning that if I drag a photo to the "Drag files here to attached" area below, and then don't use it in my post, it gets added at the end anyway. Or at least that's what I think happens and explains the random photo at the end.
  15. In my prior post I mentioned creating margin planks (or waterways) which would lie on top of the deck planking, not adjoining it. Basically I was too lazy to try to make the edge of the deck planking precisely meet the edge of the margin plank. In retrospect that may not have been a great decision, but it is what it is. The kit-supplied laser cut pieces would be too thick and too obviously lying on top of the deck. The instructions say they are to be painted along with the inside of the bulwarks (I’m wondering a bit why), and I felt they had to be thick enough to absorb the paint without wri
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