Endurance by Pierre Greborio - OcCre - 1:70

[Pierre Greborio]

Hello! This is my first build log. I hope I don’t mess up 😇

 

I come from the world of Lego, and about one year ago my wife kindly “suggested” to move to something that would slow me down a bit. One year ago I started my first kit, Albatros, followed by Palamós, Polaris, Calella, San Juan and Endeavour Yacht Model - 1934 America’s Cup. I am now about to start a more challenging project, the Endurance. I am still a novice and eager to learn new techniques and do more research.

 

I have been reading several exceptional build logs, @clearway, @Tomculb, @theoracle09, and @HakeZou, and did some research online to capture as many pictures as I can.

 

For this project I thought of challenging myself a bit. I would like to build a diorama of the ship when it got stuck, or right before, in Antarctic sea ice in January 1915, after entering the Weddell Sea. With a bit of luck, something interesting will come. I hope 😅

[Pierre Greborio]

After checking all the material and plans

 

I moved to dry test al pieces

 

 

Then I made three modifications to the kit, as suggested by @Tomculb in his build log

1. Cut an open area between the first and second bulkheads to accomodate the windlass
2. Cut the propeller space trapezoid rather than half moon

3. Enlarged the portholes to 4mm

By mistake I glued the parts before cutting the open area, so my cuts are not very clean. With a bit of sanding I can clean up that area.

 

 

 

Edited January 5 by Pierre Greborio

[Pierre Greborio]

After conducting some research on deck planking, I discovered several features that deviate from the kit specifications and require adjustments.

 

Plank width

Upon comparing photographs with the kit plans, it is evident that the planks are more than double the required dimensions (https://modelshipworld.com/topic/39482-endurance-deck-planks-on-170-scale/). Consequently, I have decided to reduce the plank thickness to 1.75 mm.

 

Nails

It is suggested to draw nails at the end of each plank. Looking at multiple pictures I fail to see any nail.

 

By the time the Endurance was built in 1912, shipwrights used a technique called "Counterboring and Plugging" to hide all metal fasteners. Months in the Antarctic, the saltwater, ice, and coal dust weathered the entire deck to a uniform "silver-gray" or "charcoal" color, masking the circular outlines of the plugs. Plus the decks were frequently "holy-stoned" (scrubbed with sandstone and seawater), which kept the surface extremely flat and level. I decided to skip nails altogether.

 

Stain

The deck was primarily constructed from Norwegian Fir and Oak. Unlike the hull, which Shackleton had repainted from white and gold to a stark black (to make it more visible against the ice), the deck was generally left unpainted. When fresh, the wood would have been a warm, pale honey-tan or creamy yellow (typical of fir). But once the ship reached the Antarctic, the constant exposure to saltwater, intense UV light, and abrasive ice crystals would have weathered the wood. This turns the tannins in the wood a "driftwood silver" or soft gray.

 

The long gaps between the planks were made watertight using a process called caulking. Sailors hammered unspun hemp fibers (oakum) soaked in pine tar into the seams and then poured hot pitch or "marine glue" over the top. This created the dark, thin lines you see running the length of the ship in photos.

 

I treated the edges of each plank with graphite bars, subsequently glued them together. Following this, I sanded the planks to achieve a smooth surface. Finally, I applied a couple of coats of weathered aged wood finish, utilizing a combination of #0000 steel wool and white vinegar, which was left to react for two days.

 

Here is the result of my experiment (the picture lost a bit of gray). I feel pretty good about it and ready to start the real deck planking. 

 

[Admiral Rick]

Your experiment with the deck planking is interesting and looks great. Have you tried experimenting with minwax weathered oak. It gives a gray color but not as dark as you are trying to achieve. Maybe you can add to it to make it dark. I used it to stain the basswood encompassing  the steam boiler. I’m  enjoying following your progress. 
Rick

Edited January 6 by Admiral Rick

[Pierre Greborio]

Thank you Rick. I haven't tried minwax weathered oak. I added a bit more vinegar to make it lighter, still waiting for the result. I should try your suggestion.

 

Also my photo is not really representative. For some reason the gray is lost 🤔

Edited January 6 by Pierre Greborio

[Admiral Rick]

Pierre to get black caulking between the deck planks I use a #11 to a #14 soft lead artist pencil you can get at Michaels and I color both plank edges prior to cementation. (Is that the same as graphite bars)  When the deck is sanded the effect looks great. 
Rick

Edited January 6 by Admiral Rick

[Pierre Greborio]

After cutting all the planks to approximately 1.7 mm in width and 6 cm in length, I applied graphite to their edges and glued them to the deck.

 

Subsequently, I sanded and stained the planks with weathered gray.

 

I am quite pleased with the final outcome. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Admiral Rick]

Pierre your deck looks absolutely fantastic. As the stain says it looks like it has been exposed to harsh weather for years. 
Best Rick

Edited January 7 by Admiral Rick

[Pierre Greborio]

Some progress has been made on the open space beneath the foredeck, drawing inspiration from @Tomculb. The planking has been added, painted white, and weathered to achieve a realistic appearance. Two small doors have been constructed, painted dark brown, and weathered accordingly. To enhance the authenticity, wear and tear have been applied, simulating the typical characteristics of doors. The door knob has been crafted from the head of a brass nail, sourced from the kit, and subsequently aged using ammonia fumes.

[Admiral Rick]

Great job weathering it all looks like it spent many years in a harsh climate. 

Best Rick

Edited Thursday at 10:01 PM by Admiral Rick

[Pierre Greborio]

I have been doing some research on the lifeboats. The kits shows two kind of lifeboats: a double-ended whaleboat and a standard rowing cutter.

 

 

The double-ended whaleboat, named James Caird, went through several modifications made to prepare for the legendary 800-mile journey from Elephant Island to South Georgia.

 

 

I am more interested in the version prior to those modifications. Luckily there is ample documentation online about this lifeboat, and here I collected some of them:

• Length: 22.5 feet (6.9 meters)
• Beam (Width): 6 feet (1.8 meters).
• Original Build Materials: * Planking: Baltic Pine.
  • Keel and Timbers: American Elm.
  • Stem and Sternpost: English Oak.

 

Based on the original vessel preserved at Dulwich College (https://www.dulwich.org.uk/about/history/the-james-caird) and the technical surveys conducted for modern replicas (like the Alexandra Shackleton), the planks width of the hull varies due to the curvature of the hull ("tapering"). In the middle of the boat (the midships), the planks are typically between 4 and 6 inches (10–15 cm) wide. The thickness was approximately 1 inch (25 mm) thick. Finally planks were fastened to the ribs using copper nails and roves (small washers), which were standard for high-quality boat building at the time to prevent rust in saltwater.

 

Thus, if my sourcing is accurate, at scale 1:70 it should be:

• Length: 98.57 mm
• Beam (Width): 25.714 mm
• Plank width: 2.143 mm
• Plank thickness: 0.36 mm

I couldn’t find an image of the plans to make a comparison with what is provided with the kit. However it appears that the kit is smaller by few millimeters, and the planks are double their size. If anyone has an image of both lifeboats plans I would rally love to see them.

 

[Pierre Greborio]

Today was dedicated to adding reinforcements. I added one more layer at the bow since this is there there is more plank bending and having a large surface to glue is better. 

[Pierre Greborio]

I started working on the sides of the hull. Pretty straightforward, with one small change, the diameter of the portholes. Looking at this picture

 

 

it appears the porthole is about bit larger than 2 planks. At construction time, standard ship-building practices for a vessel of her 144-foot size suggest surface widths of approximately 8 to 10 inches. Let’s assume the porthole to be 20 inches in diameter, I then drilled those to 7mm.

 

[Pierre Greborio]

I am back working on the double-ended whaleboat following instructions from the kit

 

 

I am not really satisfied. The lifeboat seem to be quite off scale 

 

 

This includes the planks and ribs, which are significantly larger than their intended size. I acknowledge the compromises made in the kit, as those components are quite small when considering the scale.

 

 

I am entertaining the idea of building those from scratch 🤔

 

Edited Monday at 08:24 PM by Pierre Greborio

[Pierre Greborio]

Working on the inboard side of the bulwark according to instructions with few modifications.

 

In heavy polar vessels such as the Endurance, leaving the stanchions exposed on the interior (a common practice on lighter sailing ships to reduce weight) was not feasible. The bulwarks were specifically designed to serve as a solid, insulating barrier. Solid interior planking effectively prevented ice, snow, and frozen spray from being trapped between the stanchions, where they could expand and potentially cause structural damage. Additionally, this design enhanced crew safety during storms by preventing gear, ropes, or limbs from becoming ensnared in the “pockets” formed between the vertical posts. Furthermore, the interior planking facilitated the distribution of the immense tension exerted by the pin rails (where the ropes were secured) across multiple stanchions, rather than concentrating it on a single point.

 

Horizontal planks with a width of 7-8 inches were laid. Consequently, I incorporated 2.8 mm planks between the stanchions. Finally I weathered a bit.

 

[Admiral Rick]

All looks great!

Rick