Is the frame of this model ship cut right?

[Jazz]

Hi everyone, I am a complete beginner and this will be my first ship - the golden star by mantua.

i am sort of stuck at the first hurdle. The instructions say to glue on some wood paneling and then fit the ribs to the frame (sorry I’m not great with the terminology yet), but my model isn’t fitting together how the instructions are. Is this common when getting a model and you have to make it up, or is it a bit of a defective one . 
 

I have attached some photos because I think it shows it more than I can explain.

If this is normal how would you glue it? I don’t want to make a mistake right at the start and be annoyed the whole build.

[paul ron]

it looks the same as the plan.

 

whats the problem?

 

 

[Jazz]

Ahh sorry I haven’t explained it very well. Specifically the second rib from the back (3, the pointy one) is quite low which means the paneling either has to go down or be raised from the frame by a few mm. The paneling is also a different size to the frame piece.

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

   Gosh, ... There should be 1 or 2 more bulkheads (some call them frames, you mention rib - but this type of model is a "plank on bulkhead", aka POB) between the stern bulkhead and the next one shown.  That's a challenge with this particular kit (budget variety?).  And yes, that next to last bulkhead projects too low.  This is where modeling skills come in (or have to be developed) to correct kit deficiencies.  Most wood kits are unlike those in plastic where everything can snap together ... there is often a need top carve, shape, sand, file and otherwise 'bodge' things together to make them fit.

 

  Hopefully, nothing is glued at this point and only "dry fitted" - a step often recommended just to see how things are going to look.  If so, you can lay the planking meant to be glued to the keel and draw a pencil line around the top edge of the planking to mark on the keel where the bulkheads should go down to - but not beyond.  Then the bulkheads can be trimmed to meet that line.  If the pieces are already glued, then you'll have to trim the offending bulkhead 'in situ', a little at a time, and use the planking to be applied as a 'gauge' to see how the trimming/shaping is going.

 

  Doing a little at a time and trial fitting as you go will prevent taking to much off - its harder to 'put back' wood and have another go rather than do less aggressive material removal.  Using a Dremel will be useful in this case, since there is a negative curve - but a light touch is needed if the Dremel is a high-speed only variety (many are).  Variable speed rotary tools can be slowed down to more reasonable speeds.

 

  "Fairing" the bulkheads prior to planking will also be a trick, and between the last two stern frames might be filled-in with basswood or balsa blocks so you can carve/sand the shape of the hull in that area.  Then the applied planking will be supported much better where the hull lines change quite q bit.  Many put support blocks at the bow as well, where the bend of the planks is more severe.  There are logs on MSW that cover all these techniques, as well as how to mark the edges of the bulkheads for planking and how to taper planks for a better look.

[paul ron]

lets see the next page? it looks right since the ribs are all seated in their slots and are all even at the keel. if its too low, you can add a strip of wood on top of the low rib to make the difference... but follow the plans. i doubt the kit is faulty. usually its the builder mistakes. miss number the ribbs?... cut the slots too deep?

 

i like to read the entire instructions before starting so i can understand why things look wrong, but maybe not... the plans may make up that difference later. 

 

 

 

 

[Gregory]

Strange.

 

 

The 'pointy' one looks too low here.

 

..but looks OK here.  

 

[Jazz]

5 hours ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

   Gosh, ... There should be 1 or 2 more bulkheads (some call them frames, you mention rib - but this type of model is a "plank on bulkhead", aka POB) between the stern bulkhead and the next one shown.  That's a challenge with this particular kit (budget variety?).  And yes, that next to last bulkhead projects too low.  This is where modeling skills come in (or have to be developed) to correct kit deficiencies.  Most wood kits are unlike those in plastic where everything can snap together ... there is often a need top carve, shape, sand, file and otherwise 'bodge' things together to make them fit.

 

  Hopefully, nothing is glued at this point and only "dry fitted" - a step often recommended just to see how things are going to look.  If so, you can lay the planking meant to be glued to the keel and draw a pencil line around the top edge of the planking to mark on the keel where the bulkheads should go down to - but not beyond.  Then the bulkheads can be trimmed to meet that line.  If the pieces are already glued, then you'll have to trim the offending bulkhead 'in situ', a little at a time, and use the planking to be applied as a 'gauge' to see how the trimming/shaping is going.

 

  Doing a little at a time and trial fitting as you go will prevent taking to much off - its harder to 'put back' wood and have another go rather than do less aggressive material removal.  Using a Dremel will be useful in this case, since there is a negative curve - but a light touch is needed if the Dremel is a high-speed only variety (many are).  Variable speed rotary tools can be slowed down to more reasonable speeds.

 

  "Fairing" the bulkheads prior to planking will also be a trick, and between the last two stern frames might be filled-in with basswood or balsa blocks so you can carve/sand the shape of the hull in that area.  Then the applied planking will be supported much better where the hull lines change quite q bit.  Many put support blocks at the bow as well, where the bend of the planks is more severe.  There are logs on MSW that cover all these techniques, as well as how to mark the edges of the bulkheads for planking and how to taper planks for a better look.

Ahhh thanks this is exactly what I needed to hear, luckily it is only dry fitted so it will be a lot easier to file down.
There is another bulkhead that’s meant to go on in a step or two. I’m very glad you mentioned that you often have to bodge things, I was stuck feeling I wanted to start doing that but concerned I’d do something irreversible. I’ll follow you’re steps and have a look at some more of the logs for more details  

 

 

 

[paul ron]

the deck steps down from the rear, then what looks low will step back up to the front deck?. .. 3 deck levels? does it have to bow up?.. what does the plan say?

 

check this video...

 

 

 

 

Edited 9 hours ago by paul ron

[Jazz]

2 minutes ago, paul ron said:

the deck steps down from the rear, then what looks low will step back up to the front deck?. .. 3 deck levels?

 

 

 

 

Yeah three levels at the end. There’s another bit on the back that needs to be added still.

 

[Jazz]

51 minutes ago, Gregory said:

Strange.

 

 

The 'pointy' one looks too low here.

 

..but looks OK here.  

 

Ahhh sorry I did not explain enough in my OP, that second photo was meant to be looked at in conjunction with the next one to show how high it pushes the panel. It is over the pointy bit there.

[paul ron]

but parts 1b and 1c are level. if the rib was low, then those parts wouldnt fit properly.

 

we are talking about ribb #5 being too low?

 

all the bottoms are even at the keel. 

Edited 9 hours ago by paul ron

[Jazz]

8 minutes ago, paul ron said:

but pats 1b and 1c are level. if the rib was low, then those parts wouldnt fit properly.

 

we are talking about ribb #5 being too low?

 

all the bottoms are even at the keel. 

Number 3 is too low, it’s about 5mm bellow number 4. I’m going to file it down as suggested by “Snug Harbour Journey”. 
every thing else fitting together and being level etc was why I was so confused about it.