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Buntlines and their relation to the shrouds


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Hi folks,

 

I'm working on the fore course buntlines for my Badger, and am trying to figure out how they run from the blocks under the tops to the fore shroud pinrail.  Do they run inside the shrouds?  Outside the shrouds?  Can they start outside the shrouds and then cross through the shrouds so that they belay on the pinrail inside the shrouds?

 

For the Badger, it looks like I can get the inner buntlines to run inside the shrouds at all times with no problem.  The outer buntlines, however, seem to only be able start outside the shrouds, so I'm wondering if it is proper to run them through the shrouds at the right point.  I've been looking at pictures, but can't seem to make out this detail.

 

Thanks so much in advance.

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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In general nothing runs on the outboard side of the shrouds, this would be too dangerous for the crew. My guess is your buntlines would pass through the shrouds at a convenient point near the very top of the shrouds, under the top and ideally above the futtock shrouds so the men wouldn't have to tangle with them. Often fairleads were seized to the inboard sides of some of the shrouds and these look like wooden doughnuts  with a hole big enough to allow for two or three lines to run through them and these fairleads are often lashed to the shrouds at points directly over the pins the lines are being led to. Its conceivable and likely that there were fairleads near the top of the shrouds too, where necessary, to keep lines running fair.

  

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Thanks very much Frankie.  When running the lines last night, I had a feeling that nothing should run outside the shrouds for the reason you say.  I'll have to look into fairleads, as these might be a good way to guide the lines in the right direction.

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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