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Posted (edited)

Hi folks, I would welcome any advice on sealing or fixing photocopied print on paper (black toner), gluing to timber and then sealing it all.

 

My hope is to glue a copy of a nautical chart to some wood as a backdrop but need some way of first 'fixing' the photocopy of the chart so the toner and/or the paper does not leach, mark or distort when glued and then sealed - last thing I need is a smudgy paper that is all lumpy due to the glue/gluing technique :).  One idea I have been given is to 'seal' the printed paper with a PVA/Water mixture but I am worried this will make the paper look 'mushy/lumpy' similar to when paper has been exposed to water and then dried.  I have also read somewhere/or been told (probably by Chuck) that hairspray can act as a fixing agent for the print - if this works which type is best?  Not by brand but rather whether an aerosol, water based etc etc? 

 

I hope to seal the lot with a coat of semi-gloss or matt varnish.  Would a water based varnish work here?  It would have to be a clear that does not yellow with age if possible.

 

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

 

regards

 

Pat

Edited by BANYAN

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Posted

I use what is called ' Workable Fixatif', a Krylon product. primarily made for artists to keep pencil art from smudging. I have used it on mylar to fix ink to it when the ink is not an achievable ink that uses acid to etch itself into the mylar, have used it on blue line prints often and have sprayed Quadrangle maps and printouts with it, front and back, before taking them out in the field on a job that would expose them to dust, rain and dirty hands. I get it from office supply outlets, most carry it and if no. order it for you. After paper is treated you can still use ink or lead pencils on it, great stuff.

jud

Posted

I think what you are trying to do is decoupage. Should be lots of how to's on the net.

 

Mark

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Posted

Thanks Jud,  between fixative and/or hairspray then should fix the print - now to sort the pasting and sealing :)

 

Thanks Mark - appreciated - I will do a Google search.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Posted

Don't know about hairspray but I do know that the fixative I mentioned is impervious to water.  If you spray both sides of your paper to the point of making it damp and let it dry,  you should be able to then glue the paper to your wood using white glue or rubber cement without it bleeding through.

jud

Posted

In addition to artists' fixatives that also often have UV-filter built in, there are 'mounting' spray-glues. Not sure how long these will last though. I also believe that there are self-adhesive films for mounting. Another option are films impregnated with melting-glue - you can iron-on your drawing etc. While I have some 3M mounting spray-glue, I can't point you to any specific products for the latter two options.

Finally, if the copy is made with a laser-printer/-copier, it may be possible to mount it with some plain wallpaper glue. It is important to press it while drying and depending what the backboard material is, you may need to laminate its back also in order to avoid warping.

 

wefalck

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

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Posted

Thanks Wefalck, appreciate that great feedback.  I'll place a call with one of the local artist supplies to discuss all this.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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