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Everything posted by BANYAN
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Folks, there may be a bit of a mix of terminology being used here? If not, apologies in advance. As most of you know I am researching the rigging for HMCSS Victoria (1855) which may help shed some light on the question. Victoria's Specification, and her Rigging Warrant, both mention wire rope vertical jackstays (separate to the shrouds). As far as I can establish, the vertical jackstays (also sometimes referred to as horses I think) were (in Victoria at least) used to lace the leech of the storm sails. In Victoria, the fore, main and mizen (driver) fore-and-aft sails used traversing hoops. I have read that the jackstays were also used in some ships to lace the leech of all fore-and-aft sails rather than using hoops. From what I have found so far (and I would still welcome further info about the subject) is that these were either rope (early versions), wire rope or even iron rod (later ships). I have not established how they were secured on their upper and lower ends. In Victoria, I think these were only rigged when the storm sails were bent on. As such the vertical jackstays did not have footropes. While Paul is referring to the shrouds, vertical jackstays may also have been used in Flying Fish which may be the cause for the mix of terminology - @paul ron do your rigging/belaying plans also refer to vertical jackstays? cheers Pat
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I'm with Roger; I prefer the use of fine pointed irons, but in my case I use resistance soldering. WRT silver solder (the item not the technique) I use products that are for different melting points with no issue. However, as some have pointed out/suggested, these may not be true silver solders but rather solder with silver rather than tin content. Either way and pedantics aside, I find them much stronger than normal soders, and the differing melting points in conjunctioon with the ability to dial up or down the level of resistance (heat), I find I can deal with very small parts effectively. cheers Pat
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Wonderful work Eberhard; a stunning micro-model. I have enjoyed following this build tremendously. cheers Pat
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Hi Keith, I may need a reminder, but I had to research this a little for the Victoria also. If I remember, I will send you something by PM next week as I am up to my neck in alligators at the moment and away for the long weekend. Basically, there were some Rules and Regs introduced by Trinity House (London) in and around the mid-19th century WRT to safety, including lighting in steam-powered ships. Whether, the US ships adopted these I do not know. Effectively from about 1858 (I think) steam-powered vessels were required to show various lights at night and in poor visibility - basically the forerunner of today's colregs. Initially, I believe these were simple light boards or just lanterns hoisted into the mast tops, or lashed to the shrouds. cheers Pat
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Nice shots John, really shows off the fine work you have done in the framing. cheers Pat
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Nice work Greg. Those figures bring the Bridge to life, a great inclusion. cheers Pat
- 202 replies
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And a very useful one. I wonder how well that rope sets? It look like it would not unravel at all. cheers Pat
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Hi from Melbourne Alex. Welcome aboard and let me also say what a beautiful model you are building. I am also interested in ships of this era so will follow you build with some interest. cheers Pat
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Great news Keith, I am happy to hear of Maggie's recovery; that will also be a great weight off your mind. cheers Pat
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Very nice work and level of detail in those 3D printed funnels Greg. Looks really nice. cheers Pat
- 202 replies
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Thanks Jerry, it produces a great result, super clean finish. cheers Pat
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Those laser cut 'ironwork' pieces look very authentic Chuck, that is so nicely done. cheers Pat
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She is looking great, very nicely presented Ian. cheers Pat
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I agree Greg. I am sure the old salts also had some apprehension with the introduction of plastic kits, or manufactured brass parts? cheers Pat
- 202 replies
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Sorry to hear this news Keith; my thoughts are with you. I hope Maggie has a full recovery. cheers Pat
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Nice prints Jerry; I may have missed this, but what material are you using (resin/filament)? cheers Pat
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And note the warm clothing in the MIDDLE of SUMMER - yikes. It has been one of those seasons down this a-way. BTW, nice carving Steven. cheers Pat
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how to secure a rope hank to the sheer poles?
BANYAN replied to paul ron's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Paul, if lines were bent to the sheer poles, this would probably have been done using the tails of the line. The excess would first have been made up into coils, a length of the tail end then wrapped around the coils on their upper end, forming a sort of eye, through which the tail will have been passed. The length of the tail will have been long enough to form at least a clove hitch by which to bend it to the pole, but probably a little more to allow a constrictor hitch, or safety turns in addition to a clove hitch. However, if carelessly/haphazardly bent to the pole, this could also have led to several of these made-up coils dangling and swinging freely if the pole was fitted much higher than the cap/roughtree rail. This would have imposed a significant hazard for the crew when stepping into the ratlines? This could be somewhat mitigated by bending them onto, or even around the shroud, near where the poles crossed them, leaving the parts between the shrouds clear to access/step-on? Hope this helps? cheers Pat
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