themadchemist Posted March 14, 2013 Share #31 Posted March 14, 2013 Hello Philo426 I saw Jarero had similar problems with those aft support doglegs. He's working with the newer Swift kit though and it has several diferences. Keep up the good work. Your making way better head way then I am. Looks like your camera likes to focus about like mine. I dont even want to think about the rudder yet. Shine On -/\= Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted March 14, 2013 Author Share #32 Posted March 14, 2013 Yeah be careful how you position the brass rudder mounts.I can also say that the openings for the brass pins are too large and should be carefully squeezed for a tight fit.Just be careful not to squeeze them so much that the pins don't fit.I found out the hard way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themadchemist Posted March 14, 2013 Share #33 Posted March 14, 2013 Philo426 Did you find the planking (first planking) to be uneven thickness in your kit? I have. I seems the brass pins and dogleg brackets arent the only parts that need adjusting. I also had to glue a bit of deck on as the bulkheads were sticking out on one side and I didnt want to just grind down the bukheads. Guess this is all part of ship building, dealing with whatever the kit throws at you. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted March 14, 2013 Author Share #34 Posted March 14, 2013 The thickness of the hull planking was uniform on my kit and the deck fit well I did not find it necessary to sand down the bulkheads.I agree that wooden ship building is a whole different world as compared to the plastic models I normally build.It requires a whole different skillset that I am trying to learn before I tackle the multi gun deck warship that I hope to build someday.I never realized how spoiled i was with the perfectly preformed plastic plastic parts in a quality kit that I took for granted.A real reality check for sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themadchemist Posted March 14, 2013 Share #35 Posted March 14, 2013 Hey philo I know what you mean. Going from scraping molding flashing from the plastic connection points to making and shaping everything from a box of sticks has been quite a new experience on my end too. When I told a friend I was building a wooden ship they said COOL, until I showed them the kit. They said "thats just a box of sticks". So far the instructions have been the worst part. Plastic kits definitely spoil us on that part too. I started with the Peterboro Canoe and am glad I did. By the time I finished sanding the hull it was like glass. Just don't hold it up to the light. It got pretty thin in places. Next time you get the camera out can you take a shot of the stem where the bulwarks come together, from inside the ship? I've test fitted the Bulwarks and the way they over lap at the stem I'm not sure how to cut them and get the proper angle. Although I'm still hour's and hour's from that point. Plankings going slow on this end but that why I started this hobby, to kill time. I'm enjoying building alot though, even with the huge learning curve. Keep on Updating, I'm following your build. Shine On -/\= Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted March 14, 2013 Author Share #36 Posted March 14, 2013 (edited) Yes well there is a gap in the bulwarks at the front.I will leave it until the bowsprit is installed and then close the gap.Fortunately the 2 walnut pices for the hawespipes will fill the gap nicely..I soaked them for a few hours and clamped them to the edge of an old coffee cup to curve them to fit the bow. Edited March 14, 2013 by philo426 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted March 14, 2013 Author Share #37 Posted March 14, 2013 Installed some bulwark stiffeners and what I guess is a bench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted March 15, 2013 Author Share #38 Posted March 15, 2013 Okay guys,,Before I glue this tiller bar to the rudder post..Should i machine it down thinner than shown.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themadchemist Posted March 15, 2013 Share #39 Posted March 15, 2013 Looks good to me. I looked at jarero's and they are shaped a bit different but size wise there about the same. Looks like you got a good drill angle on it also, although yours has a taller tiller staff then what jareros Swift show's, but again his is the newer kit. keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted March 15, 2013 Author Share #40 Posted March 15, 2013 Thanks!I I think it looks pretty good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarero Posted March 15, 2013 Share #41 Posted March 15, 2013 Okay guys,,Before I glue this tiller bar to the rudder post..Should i machine it down thinner than shown.?As long as you are happy with it then I would use it as is. The only caution that I can provide is from my own mistake where I had the end of the tiller to tall for the scale of the swift. It's hard to be certain from the angle of that photo but it looks like yours is a much more realistic height. Nice work. Jared Quote -------------------------------In Progress Build:Robert E. Lee by Scientific a.k.a "The Bob"Completed Build: Swift 1805 by AL -Jared Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted March 15, 2013 Author Share #42 Posted March 15, 2013 Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted March 16, 2013 Author Share #43 Posted March 16, 2013 Cut and installed the timber heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share #44 Posted March 17, 2013 Cut the scupper slots with my Dremel and a reinforced cut off wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share #45 Posted March 17, 2013 I had to curve the main deck house's roof so I got creative with a coffee cup and quadruple clamps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slagoon Posted March 18, 2013 Share #46 Posted March 18, 2013 Are the old plans different than the new ones? I thought that the deck house tops were flat (at least they are in the new plans) Quote ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -Sarah Current Build: Krabbenkutter CUX-87 Harriet Lane Fishcutter GO-38 In the Wings: Corel Victory Cross section Completed Build: USS Missouri HMS Bounty's Jolly Boat Peterboro Canoe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted March 18, 2013 Author Share #47 Posted March 18, 2013 Nope, the parts have a definite curve to them.Makes sense as it allowed thge water to roll off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted March 19, 2013 Author Share #48 Posted March 19, 2013 Got the deckhouses together and planked one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themadchemist Posted March 19, 2013 Share #49 Posted March 19, 2013 Hello Philo, Good to see more progress. Keep up the good work, mate. I was just looking at the stern and bow walls of the deck houses and in the older kit they are curved. Seems there are lots of differences between the old and new versions. 1) the old kit has almost no lower decks 2) the old kit has almost no instructions (I saw a the color photo instructions in jarero's build where he's gluing the deck houses. 3) The old kit doesnt have scuppers pre-cut in the bulwarks 4) It appears that some of the same wood isnt used for the same parts in the 2 kits. Things I've found that are the same 1) its a very interesting beginners build and fun to build and watch being built. Its good to see the several swift builds being put up here. I havent been able to build the last few days due to my disablity and it nice to be able to watch others progress. I hate when this condition takes me out of the game, BUGGER! The curved deckhouse roofs also make sense as the deck is compound curved to the mid-ship and out to the scuppers. I would expect as much to help move water off the decks. Water leaving the roofs would be pulled towards the scuppers and past the doorways. But then thats just my common sense talking I dont know for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted March 19, 2013 Author Share #50 Posted March 19, 2013 Yes since this kit has rather poor instructions I kinda have to wing it as I go along.Causes me to make mistakes but is useful in teaching me the dos and donts of wooden ship modeling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themadchemist Posted March 20, 2013 Share #51 Posted March 20, 2013 (edited) I have found the drawings way more beneficial then the 4 1/3 pages of written instructions. I agree, if approached as a learning tool, the Swift is a great learning project. Personally, I've been contemplating painting one of the deck house roofs with the prism and changing the name from Swift to "the Dock side of the Moon" Edited March 20, 2013 by themadchemist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share #52 Posted March 20, 2013 Pretty cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share #53 Posted March 20, 2013 Got the door installed and the tiny copper hinges.Funky for sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted March 21, 2013 Author Share #54 Posted March 21, 2013 I had to think of a way to taper down the bowsprit.So I put it in my cordless drill and held a chisel against the rotating bow sprit blank.Then I chucked a coarse sanding drum in my vise and again held it as it rotated. Then I used fine sand paper to smooth it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themadchemist Posted March 21, 2013 Share #55 Posted March 21, 2013 Hello Philo. Sounds like a poormans lathe. I've seen barrels turn on a demel that have turned out very nicely. Its great using your imagination to figure out solutions to all the demands of a wooden kit. For me it makes the building frustrating, but more fun, as I love solving a good problem. I recently saw Ron (rlb) on his US Brig Oneida turn a square stock piece of cherry into a 5mm dowel which he then used to make deadeyes with a homemade jig for drilling the deadeye holes. The jig he used was a modificaton of one Russ used on his cross-section. The page with Rons deadeye construction: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/91-us-brig-oneida-by-rlb-the-lumberyard-pof-148-scale-1809-lake-ontario-warship/page-11 Russ's crossection - a great way to learn lots of technique http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1091-cross-section-model-by-russ-148-scale/ Just goes to show what we all can do with just the most basic of toys/tools. Of course it takes longer.... Great job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted March 21, 2013 Author Share #56 Posted March 21, 2013 Yes it was effective and the cordless drill is variable speed so it is easy to check your progress as you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted March 22, 2013 Author Share #57 Posted March 22, 2013 A little more work in the bow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted March 23, 2013 Author Share #58 Posted March 23, 2013 clamping up the main rail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted March 23, 2013 Author Share #59 Posted March 23, 2013 The completed cap rail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted March 23, 2013 Author Share #60 Posted March 23, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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