Union Brigantine by Hawk42 - Constructo - 1:100

[Hawk42]

Explore the Universal Series

http://www.bestrc.com/constructo/index.html

SPECIFICATIONS

Stock Number: CNSB6116

Length: 15.75 in (40 cm)

Height: 14.5 in (37 cm)

Width: 5.3 in (13.5 cm)

Scale: 1:100

 

This is where I have to work. There is a small table behind me.

And this is where I am at at the moment.  Starting on the chain plates.

[GuntherMT]

Looks pretty small - I thought the Carmen was a bit of a pain at 1:80 scale.  Does look like you've done a very nice job on it so far.  What is the hull length on this?

[Hawk42]

Looks pretty small - I thought the Carmen was a bit of a pain at 1:80 scale.  Does look like you've done a very nice job on it so far.  What is the hull length on this?

The length is only about 16 inches so it does make it a bit of a pain to get into some areas.  

[GuntherMT]

The length is only about 16 inches so it does make it a bit of a pain to get into some areas.  

 

That would be the overall length, measured from the tip of the bowsprit to the end of the gaff boom beyond the stern rail.  I'm curious how long the actual hull is, if you measured it right now.  From the pictures it looks like it's under 12".

 

Thanks,

[Hawk42]

That would be the overall length, measured from the tip of the bowsprit to the end of the gaff boom beyond the stern rail.  I'm curious how long the actual hull is, if you measured it right now.  From the pictures it looks like it's under 12".

 

Thanks,

Yep it is just under 12" right now, good eye.

[Hawk42]

Assembling the chain plates and the deadeyes.

Photo Steps 13-14, Paragraph 10

Instructions call for using copper wire to make the chain plates, by using a 24 mm length, folding it (=12 mm) twisting it around and securing it to the hull (into the wales) with a nail through the loop made in the bend, then threading the open end through the chainwales and securing it around the deadeye.

 

DAMAGE CONTROL: hand drill holes into the wales where you want your nails to go, prior to nailing into it to avoid splitting this 2 mm piece of sapely wood. 

 

I found it easier to do the opposite. I use 50 mm of wire and looped the bend over the deadeye and twisted to secure the deadeye.

 

I put the extended wire through the chainwales and wrapped the wire around the nail. Then sent the nail home, hiding the ends of the wires. If you used to much wire, just trim the excess.

 

Looks like its gone be a chore to run the rigging through these deadeyes.  

Tightened the chainplates by twisting the deadeye with tweezers after they were nailed down.

 

 

The foremast looked better but as my wife says its gona be up high, and no one will notice the flaws.

Should I paint the chainplates black?

 

[GuntherMT]

The chainplates are normally black (iron), although some people leave them brass (I did in my first build) if they are pre-made out of brass. 

 

If the dead eyes aren't too tight, you should try to turn them all the same way, with a single hole 'down' at the bottom, and the other two holes level with each other at the top.  The dead eyes at the other end of the lanyards (at the bottom of the shrouds) are exactly the opposite.  If you don't set them this way, then your lanyards may come out looking odd or be difficult to figure out how to run the pattern.

 

[Hawk42]

Poor instruction and its small size together with my poor eye site has me just monkey it together. I would not recommend this model.

 

[Dutchman]

I totally agree! I tried the Union a few years ago, to see if modelling was something for me but gave up. I then found out that The Swift was a far better model to start with (thanks to this forum). I have finished it and I'm half way building the Lady Nelson, which is a good choice for a second build. But still....even if it was failure, it got me interested. A learning experience after all