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I have the MS kit for the Fair American and I am wondering if there are any ways I can get a replacement part for the aft lantern for my model, possibly one that can be rigged with an led light.

 

I found one site that has a lot of parts from kits for sale but not having the parts in hand to compare it's rough to know if they are worth buying ....

 

using the plans the size I need to match will be  15mm tall and 10mm wide for the body of the lantern

that is without any decorate cap or base.

 

on the drawings is shows what looks to be a six sided lantern with each side being made up of 4 panes.

 

I have seen what looks like one kit part that makes a lantern from parts but it does not show the assembled lantern so I can't tell for sure how it looks.

 

my kit has a cast Britannia metal part.   I am not sure if I can use that part to make a better part some how ?

 

any ideas ?   anyone know of a source for  parts ?

Holding at Rigging stage :

MS Bluenose 1:64, rigging and finish work

 

Building Hull :

MS Fair American 1:48

 

In the yard:  18th Century Longboat, Model Shipways Kit

Done: AL Bounty Jolly Boat

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Get ahold of Model Expo and ask them for a replacement.  They replace broken and lost pieces all of the time.

David B

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Get ahold of Model Expo and ask them for a replacement.  They replace broken and lost pieces all of the time.

David B

 

the kit part is not broken.

 

it is a solid part.

 

what I want to do is make or buy a lantern of the same size and style that I can put a small led light inside of.

 

for example I may be able to use one of these:   http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/caldercraft_lanterns.html

 

looking for other ones like that before I buy one ....   trying to find the best match to the ship etc...

Holding at Rigging stage :

MS Bluenose 1:64, rigging and finish work

 

Building Hull :

MS Fair American 1:48

 

In the yard:  18th Century Longboat, Model Shipways Kit

Done: AL Bounty Jolly Boat

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Hi figuerres,

 

I doubt that you will find anything available "off-the-shelf" that you could use and suggest that you try to scratch build your own. I have seen several examples of beautiful work so the idea is not inconceiveable. However, I have not seen a lantern with a led installed and this will be an added problem but I have no doubt that modellers have overcome this.

 

Basically what I have seen is a solid cast block of polyester resin (the stuff that comes in liquid form and cosists of two parts that are mixed for encapsulation work) shaped according to the size and shape of the lantern. A suitable framework is then made to surround the shaped block according to the plan and support.

 

The key would be to first cast a suitable size rectangular block and drill a hole through it to accomodate the led (with the wiring attached). The wire should then be drawn through a length of brass tubing bent according to the plan and the hole can then be plugged with a small quantity of resin that will support both the led and brass tube with wiring exposed at the end. Do not close the upper part of the hole that should remain open. The led does not create a great deal of heat but I don't know what will happen if it is entirely enclosed. 

 

Once this has been done, the block of resin can then be shaped according to your requirements and the framework assembled from wire or brass strips. An upper cap will be needed as part of the framework and this should have a small vent above the top of the led.

 

I do believe that the work will be a challenge and I wish you success.

 

Richard

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Hi figuerres,

 

I doubt that you will find anything available "off-the-shelf" that you could use and suggest that you try to scratch build your own. I have seen several examples of beautiful work so the idea is not inconceiveable. However, I have not seen a lantern with a led installed and this will be an added problem but I have no doubt that modellers have overcome this.

 

Basically what I have seen is a solid cast block of polyester resin (the stuff that comes in liquid form and cosists of two parts that are mixed for encapsulation work) shaped according to the size and shape of the lantern. A suitable framework is then made to surround the shaped block according to the plan and support.

 

The key would be to first cast a suitable size rectangular block and drill a hole through it to accomodate the led (with the wiring attached). The wire should then be drawn through a length of brass tubing bent according to the plan and the hole can then be plugged with a small quantity of resin that will support both the led and brass tube with wiring exposed at the end. Do not close the upper part of the hole that should remain open. The led does not create a great deal of heat but I don't know what will happen if it is entirely enclosed. 

 

Once this has been done, the block of resin can then be shaped according to your requirements and the framework assembled from wire or brass strips. An upper cap will be needed as part of the framework and this should have a small vent above the top of the led.

 

I do believe that the work will be a challenge and I wish you success.

 

Richard

 

thank you, one of the ideas I am thinking about is very much what you just described,   possibly I can use the supplied cast part to make a mold for the replacement lantern,  use that to cast a part that I can then drill out , carve etc....

Holding at Rigging stage :

MS Bluenose 1:64, rigging and finish work

 

Building Hull :

MS Fair American 1:48

 

In the yard:  18th Century Longboat, Model Shipways Kit

Done: AL Bounty Jolly Boat

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Hi again figuerres,

 

Sounds like a plan and that is better than nothing at all.

 

The reason that I suggested the original casting be a regular square block or cube is that much of the work will need to be made while the part is mounted in a vice or similar. Once the innards are in place the final shape will be very much easier to achieve by filing and polishing. 

 

I expect that the finished lantern surfaces port and starboard should be mirror images but it is most unlikely that the fore/aft surfaces are. You will need to establish this for your particular need but it is very doubtful that you will be able to clamp the final shape while you work on it. 

 

I have not looked at Tom's link and there may be good ideas there.

 

Richard

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Hi again figuerres,

 

Sounds like a plan and that is better than nothing at all.

 

The reason that I suggested the original casting be a regular square block or cube is that much of the work will need to be made while the part is mounted in a vice or similar. Once the innards are in place the final shape will be very much easier to achieve by filing and polishing. 

 

I expect that the finished lantern surfaces port and starboard should be mirror images but it is most unlikely that the fore/aft surfaces are. You will need to establish this for your particular need but it is very doubtful that you will be able to clamp the final shape while you work on it. 

 

I have not looked at Tom's link and there may be good ideas there.

 

Richard

 

Tom linked to the same place I linked, I will have to order from there to see , they have lanterns that are made for other kits that are not solid cast parts, the top and bottom are cast and the sides are a brass etch part that you bend to shape the "open" part of the lantern, that is how some of them are made from a look at the pictures. others are pre made but look like they have plastic for the "glass" not sure if they are all plastic or part metal.

Holding at Rigging stage :

MS Bluenose 1:64, rigging and finish work

 

Building Hull :

MS Fair American 1:48

 

In the yard:  18th Century Longboat, Model Shipways Kit

Done: AL Bounty Jolly Boat

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