Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Jörgen

  1. Hi again I have been able to do more work on the stern. I didn't like the photo etch letters in the kit because In my opinion they are to big. So I order new from http://cornwallmodelboats.co.uk and they are much more in my taste. In the photo below so are the kit letter to the left and the new to the right. My first attempt to use them failed because I used blu tak to attache the letters but even how small amount I used so were the blu tak spreading out to musch. You can see it on the photo below. I sprayed it with black but after removing the letters the bad result from the blu tak was shown. I was not at all happy wit h the result so I sanded it down again and repainted it. Then I used Tamiya X22 clear for protection because I used white glue instead to attach the letters. Then I sprayed it with MRP black lacquer paint because i removed the letters with little water. It was still not perfect but I learnt how to make a wet palette for acrylic colors and I then had the time to fill in the bad areas with a 10/0 brush. Here is a photo on the wet palette and here is a link how to made it, I can highly recommend it if you paint with acrylic colors. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMPn5po5-m0 After this a paint the other areas black with Vallejo models color and the sprayed it with Tamiya XF-86 flat clear to even out the colors. I was then forced to re oil the stern because the masking tape had removed old oil... I am really happy with the result so I can continue on other parts now and this is all for now
  2. I will think on it Tony and it is an interesting idea (Me doing an guide here... ). I will soon paint my other FW 190 D9 in 1/48 so maybe do something there. Have some more work to do before painting and Sherbourne take my time for the moment. This is also the very good benefit to work with "two ends" of the hobby and combine them. There are some interesting things I have discovered since I started to build wood kits and read books and followed build threads. They are (this does of course not apply to every one) - Resin is or plastic parts are forbidden.... Some people seems to think that if a part is of white metal or something the quality is so much better than if the part were of plastic or resin. Funny because the details in resin parts is light years ahead of what you can get in white metal. - Sails seems to be avoided at all times. The idea is that they are impossible to do because of scales etc. Well many more things is done and they are still in wrong to scale. I read in a book by a quite famous builder (i think he was since he did many books) that he didn't want to touch a nail to do stitch or the sewing machine (in my ears it sound like it was a woman's work.....) - Caldercraft Admiralty color seems to be THE color brand to use
  3. Tony, i can't paint without it. I just hate to paint with a brush. Airbrush gives superior finish. I can highly recommend it but it is some investments. But you do not need any expensive compressor or airbrush to start to learn. And it is not hard to do. Much easier than the skills you already has learned during your shipbuilding:)
  4. Hi again Today was a very good day in the cave, I was aloud to work the whole day on Sherbourne since my wife gave me permission.... So here is what I have done (some parts was done during the week) I have formed the whales in water and the have then aloud to dry attached to the hull to be able to get there form. The wales was painted black with airbrush. I used Vallejo Model Color Black diluted in theres airbrush cleaner. After this I glued them in position with superglue and wood glue. I constructed some counter timber. They can't be seen on the drawings for Sherbourne but I think they are a nice tough and also they make the stern "come together" and hides the joints. The rails for the stern were constructed and glued on the the hull. The joint from the stern rails to the counter timber were not so nice.... But this is fixed by vallejo putty And here is how it looks like when finished. I have thinking a lot on how to make the stern on Sherbourne because I didn't like it at all how it was presented in the kit. So this is my way to do it. Others have done it different. Now next step, some masking tape. And Vallejo Model Color Yellow Ochre diluted in airbrush thinner was sprayed on And when masking of the tape it seems that Tamiya masking tape seems to disolve the tung oil. This is very good to remember for the future to avoid problems. It is easy fixed again by just wipe on oil again. And here is the result So this is all for now. Now it must dry to morning so I can continue with the stern to clean it upp and try to name the ship :) Jörgen
  5. Thank you Tony for these guides! I will study them carefully and in detail:). Your work is wonderful as always. jörgen
  6. Thank you Tony, you are very kind as always You and the others have done most of the thinking, I just add my small touch. Too bad that I didn't build Sherbourne when you and the others did. I read your old diskussion all the time and make my own conclusions of them:) Yes I will put on hinges but I hasn't touched that brass work yet. Lot to learn but I will finish most of the woodwork before I start on that. And after that I think I will try to learn how to make my own ropes... I have too many plastic kits on the shelf that I need to finish so I have to fit them in also
  7. Hi again and a small update. The build is slow because hard to find time to sit down and build. Real life with work and small children takes its toll However here is what I have done. I constructed the two front gunport lids and lids for the oar ports. All of these will be closed. Then I put one layer of tung oil on the hull for protection (and it looks better for me when I am sitting and build). I am very happy how the tree nailing looks under the oil layer and I think it was worth the effort. They are quite "funny" because you can't see them if you don't look on them strait on. This makes the tree nails to blend in perfect on the hull and just adds details for the eye. Then I started to create the fancy rails. I used a 2x2 mm list instead of the one supplied in the kit. In the DeAgostini Vasa kit so were there supplied this template in photo etch for these type of work so I didn't have to create it by my self. The strips fancy rails will be 2 mm wide instead of the 1.5 on the kits drawings but it will look better because they will be the same size as the channel (i think it is called). However 2mm will be to deep so I sanded them down to 1 mm in my own "thickness sander. Here is the result I soaked the strips in water and put them on the hull wet. The drying will give them the proper shape and it will be much easier to glue them on place. This is all for now. I will add two phots over other project that I have finished. I hope you don't mind that I put them here. The wood and plastic model building complement each other because for me they are so different. Plastic is more or less glue and paint but the in the wood you have to think much more and figure out how to construct the parts Best regards Jörgen
  8. I will fit them Tony, I use Sherbourne for practise after all:). Then I probobly close the forward ports. But I think it is little tricky to get the right fit.
  9. Small update. I have done hawse plates for my Sherbourne. I added them for two reasons, i wanted to have it since i think it looks nice and I needed to cover some damages I done :). They can not be seen on the drawings for Sherbourne so i tataly made them up bymyself. I wasn't sure if i like the look of them. Think they are little bit big so I started to thinking of take them of and reshape them but that wasn't a good idea............... So I decided to keep them as they are . The drawings (as I have seen in Gregor and Tonys buildlogs) so are there two hawse holes on each side so I decided to do that. Then I did the holes for tree nails. I just made up some pattern that I liked. The hawse holes are 2.5 mm in diameter and the tree nails are done by 0.8mm drill. Some trre nails were done and glued in. Sanded them down and I am quite happy with the result. I think they don't look to big now. I think everything will blend in nice when the oil is added and the havse plates will just add to the "buisinees" in the front. Actually they look little oversized on the photos but that is the mobile camera that "create" that. They look better in reallife. I can't make up my mind on what to do with the two foremost gunports. I don't just want them emty so either have closed gunportlids or add two extra guns here. According to wikipedia so was Sherbourne build as a 10 gun Cutter (the kit instructions says 8 but there are 10 gunports..) so maybe it is not wrong to put "full" arnament even if she never seems to have it.
  10. I have done exactly what you did and I also ended up with the Vallejo flat red:)
  11. Hello Here is a link to all my photos during construction for my Endeavour https://photos.app.goo.gl/WCx2CpbjPsztBhzb9 Best regards Jörgen
  12. FINALLY!!!!I never thought this time would come! The tree nailing is finished. Sherbourne is a hedgehog. And then all is sanded down and dissapear for now.... It looks little weired in the sharp light for the photo all the dust is reflecting the light. I think it will look quite good when the final oil layer will be applied. But now I can start to build again:)
  13. This gold is done with AK Extreme metal. The best is that the color is very resistans when dry. No problem with masking etc. You will love them. No, i used thinned tamiya X1 black. Check the link in my signature to DeAgostini Vasa. Its in there (at the bottom since this is when I repainted the parts, I was not happy with my first trial). Also when you are doing the metal finishes, use different shades on a lot of panels. The effect is unbelievable.
  14. This gold is done with AK Extreme metal. The best is that the color is very resistans when dry. No problem with masking etc. You will love them.
  15. Hello As for metal finishes I can highly recommend AK Extreme metal colors. Very easy to spray and perfect result every time.
  16. Hi again. It is almost one year ago since i did some update here. To be honest so did I lose the mojo when I started to do the tree nailing. And then came spring and I started to build a new garage to our house so i forgot Sherbourne. I started to modeling again this autumn but it was most plastic 1/48 aircrafts (here is a link to my latest build if someone is interested. It turn out really good i think https://photos.app.goo.gl/K8Xd3N8ZvhoA7NxdA ). But my mojo for Sherbourne just came back so i have continued the build! As you can see on the photo below so have I continued with the tree nailing. One thing that make it much easier sine last year is that I increased the hole diameter from 0.5 to 0.6 mm. This make the production of the tree nails so much easier because they don't split so often. The foto below show how I am doing the tree nailing. Also one one plank has been replased as you can see in the upper part of the photo. Now have i drilled all the holes and I have a big blister on my finger..... Sherbourne is not so seaworthy at the moment This is all from me for now. I felt it was a good thing to start the build log again. Best regards Jörgen
  17. But I must say that the metal parts that arrives every month is very good:)
  18. I also have parked my build until all parts arrive. It pointless to build according to deagostinis instructions. Especially if you plan to replace materials.
  19. Mike Y, I am interested in this saw. But since you live in Sweden you probably know that Biltema also have a band saw for the same amount of money. The Biltema saw is bigger but I doubt little bit on the quality of this. Have you any experiences of this? Also it is possible to use the proxxon band saw to saw lists for planking (doing the same job as the small table saw and scroll saw)?
  20. I love the color of the wood in the model. Can I ask what wood and what finish you are using on the different parts? I'm about to start the Billing Vasa and have already started the Deagustini Vasa bu I can't stand the plywood and the planking material. I also can't find a nice stain or something that I like. and ofcourse congratulations on this wonderful build. Br Jörgen
  21. Beautiful build. The whole building log is a big inspiration for me.
  22. Thank you Michael for the explanation, I will do this. Still need to test out the water or the oil:)
  23. Thank you Mickgee and Mog. Think i can skip laquer Based then. Will by water and oil to make some testing. Mickgee, are you staning second planks before you glue them in place? How about sanding then? Mog, a very beautiful ship you have there.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model shipcraft.

The Nautical Research Guild puts on ship modeling seminars, yearly conferences, and juried competitions. We publish books on ship modeling techniques as well as our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, whose pages are full of articles by master ship modelers who show you how they build those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you what details to build.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
  • Create New...