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About Jörgen

  • Birthday 06/07/1976

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    Helsingborg, Sweden

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  1. Välkommen Henrik! Nice with another Swedish person here:) I will follow your build. Is it your first one? Jörgen
  2. Hi again, a fast update since i manage to do the entry port ladders yesterday. I was thinking how to make six exact the same ladders and this is how I did it. I milled them out on a row from a bigger block. I also drilled out 0.5 mm holes and tree plug them since this is shown in the Alert drawing. The ladders are 2,5 mm high and 11.2 mm wide. Then i made the curved pattern with a round mill bit. I also milled out a small edge on the upper part of the ladder. Sorry for the bad photo but I hope you can see it. Then the parts were milled out from its block. The corners were rounded with a small file. Also 2mm x 0.5mm hand holes scores were milled in each part. Then they were glued on the hull on each side. Then a layer of oil was added. I am really happy with the result and at last I am finish with the wood part of the hull so now can I start to focus on deck area. Here are some photos and this is all for now.
  3. The construction continues with the channels. I used the kit parts for template to construct new parts in dark massive walnut. The part with the right color that I wanted to use was 5 mm thick but the channel is 2 mm so I had to milled it to right thickness. Then I formed the channels and milled out the chain plate slots. I also drilled 0.8 mm holes for reinforcements. I also created the outer part for the channel but this will be attached later when the chain plates is installed. It was very fun to start to be "creative" with the milling machine This part is only 1,5 mm thick and i manage to mill the strip out with right thickness. 0.8 mm brass wire is used as the reinforcement. The parts is installed with wood and cuper glue. And the installed channel This is all for now. Next part will be the entry port ladders and it should be interesting to see if I manage to mille out the form for them that is presented in the Alert book.
  4. Hi again I have been able to do more work on the stern. I didn't like the photo etch letters in the kit because In my opinion they are to big. So I order new from http://cornwallmodelboats.co.uk and they are much more in my taste. In the photo below so are the kit letter to the left and the new to the right. My first attempt to use them failed because I used blu tak to attache the letters but even how small amount I used so were the blu tak spreading out to musch. You can see it on the photo below. I sprayed it with black but after removing the letters the bad result from the blu tak was shown. I was not at all happy wit h the result so I sanded it down again and repainted it. Then I used Tamiya X22 clear for protection because I used white glue instead to attach the letters. Then I sprayed it with MRP black lacquer paint because i removed the letters with little water. It was still not perfect but I learnt how to make a wet palette for acrylic colors and I then had the time to fill in the bad areas with a 10/0 brush. Here is a photo on the wet palette and here is a link how to made it, I can highly recommend it if you paint with acrylic colors. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMPn5po5-m0 After this a paint the other areas black with Vallejo models color and the sprayed it with Tamiya XF-86 flat clear to even out the colors. I was then forced to re oil the stern because the masking tape had removed old oil... I am really happy with the result so I can continue on other parts now and this is all for now
  5. I will think on it Tony and it is an interesting idea (Me doing an guide here... ). I will soon paint my other FW 190 D9 in 1/48 so maybe do something there. Have some more work to do before painting and Sherbourne take my time for the moment. This is also the very good benefit to work with "two ends" of the hobby and combine them. There are some interesting things I have discovered since I started to build wood kits and read books and followed build threads. They are (this does of course not apply to every one) - Resin is or plastic parts are forbidden.... Some people seems to think that if a part is of white metal or something the quality is so much better than if the part were of plastic or resin. Funny because the details in resin parts is light years ahead of what you can get in white metal. - Sails seems to be avoided at all times. The idea is that they are impossible to do because of scales etc. Well many more things is done and they are still in wrong to scale. I read in a book by a quite famous builder (i think he was since he did many books) that he didn't want to touch a nail to do stitch or the sewing machine (in my ears it sound like it was a woman's work.....) - Caldercraft Admiralty color seems to be THE color brand to use
  6. Tony, i can't paint without it. I just hate to paint with a brush. Airbrush gives superior finish. I can highly recommend it but it is some investments. But you do not need any expensive compressor or airbrush to start to learn. And it is not hard to do. Much easier than the skills you already has learned during your shipbuilding:)
  7. Hi again Today was a very good day in the cave, I was aloud to work the whole day on Sherbourne since my wife gave me permission.... So here is what I have done (some parts was done during the week) I have formed the whales in water and the have then aloud to dry attached to the hull to be able to get there form. The wales was painted black with airbrush. I used Vallejo Model Color Black diluted in theres airbrush cleaner. After this I glued them in position with superglue and wood glue. I constructed some counter timber. They can't be seen on the drawings for Sherbourne but I think they are a nice tough and also they make the stern "come together" and hides the joints. The rails for the stern were constructed and glued on the the hull. The joint from the stern rails to the counter timber were not so nice.... But this is fixed by vallejo putty And here is how it looks like when finished. I have thinking a lot on how to make the stern on Sherbourne because I didn't like it at all how it was presented in the kit. So this is my way to do it. Others have done it different. Now next step, some masking tape. And Vallejo Model Color Yellow Ochre diluted in airbrush thinner was sprayed on And when masking of the tape it seems that Tamiya masking tape seems to disolve the tung oil. This is very good to remember for the future to avoid problems. It is easy fixed again by just wipe on oil again. And here is the result So this is all for now. Now it must dry to morning so I can continue with the stern to clean it upp and try to name the ship :) Jörgen
  8. Thank you Tony for these guides! I will study them carefully and in detail:). Your work is wonderful as always. jörgen
  9. Thank you Tony, you are very kind as always You and the others have done most of the thinking, I just add my small touch. Too bad that I didn't build Sherbourne when you and the others did. I read your old diskussion all the time and make my own conclusions of them:) Yes I will put on hinges but I hasn't touched that brass work yet. Lot to learn but I will finish most of the woodwork before I start on that. And after that I think I will try to learn how to make my own ropes... I have too many plastic kits on the shelf that I need to finish so I have to fit them in also
  10. Hi again and a small update. The build is slow because hard to find time to sit down and build. Real life with work and small children takes its toll However here is what I have done. I constructed the two front gunport lids and lids for the oar ports. All of these will be closed. Then I put one layer of tung oil on the hull for protection (and it looks better for me when I am sitting and build). I am very happy how the tree nailing looks under the oil layer and I think it was worth the effort. They are quite "funny" because you can't see them if you don't look on them strait on. This makes the tree nails to blend in perfect on the hull and just adds details for the eye. Then I started to create the fancy rails. I used a 2x2 mm list instead of the one supplied in the kit. In the DeAgostini Vasa kit so were there supplied this template in photo etch for these type of work so I didn't have to create it by my self. The strips fancy rails will be 2 mm wide instead of the 1.5 on the kits drawings but it will look better because they will be the same size as the channel (i think it is called). However 2mm will be to deep so I sanded them down to 1 mm in my own "thickness sander. Here is the result I soaked the strips in water and put them on the hull wet. The drying will give them the proper shape and it will be much easier to glue them on place. This is all for now. I will add two phots over other project that I have finished. I hope you don't mind that I put them here. The wood and plastic model building complement each other because for me they are so different. Plastic is more or less glue and paint but the in the wood you have to think much more and figure out how to construct the parts Best regards Jörgen
  11. I will fit them Tony, I use Sherbourne for practise after all:). Then I probobly close the forward ports. But I think it is little tricky to get the right fit.
  12. Small update. I have done hawse plates for my Sherbourne. I added them for two reasons, i wanted to have it since i think it looks nice and I needed to cover some damages I done :). They can not be seen on the drawings for Sherbourne so i tataly made them up bymyself. I wasn't sure if i like the look of them. Think they are little bit big so I started to thinking of take them of and reshape them but that wasn't a good idea............... So I decided to keep them as they are . The drawings (as I have seen in Gregor and Tonys buildlogs) so are there two hawse holes on each side so I decided to do that. Then I did the holes for tree nails. I just made up some pattern that I liked. The hawse holes are 2.5 mm in diameter and the tree nails are done by 0.8mm drill. Some trre nails were done and glued in. Sanded them down and I am quite happy with the result. I think they don't look to big now. I think everything will blend in nice when the oil is added and the havse plates will just add to the "buisinees" in the front. Actually they look little oversized on the photos but that is the mobile camera that "create" that. They look better in reallife. I can't make up my mind on what to do with the two foremost gunports. I don't just want them emty so either have closed gunportlids or add two extra guns here. According to wikipedia so was Sherbourne build as a 10 gun Cutter (the kit instructions says 8 but there are 10 gunports..) so maybe it is not wrong to put "full" arnament even if she never seems to have it.

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