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About Jörgen

  • Birthday 06/07/1976

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    Helsingborg, Sweden

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  1. You can do as I did, use the brass letters in the kit (or buy smaller) and use these as templates and paint the name instead.
  2. Looks very good and now you are ahead of me... The varnish should protect it better. I also have little bit cloth attached to the stand for further protection. I just tilt the ship on the stand so I can work with it.
  3. Tack så mycket Yes it is that book. I use it lot of making the parts to Sherbourne. I have no idea of sailing and the name on things I can also recommend Lennart Pettersons Rigging books.
  4. I use the Alert book to name the things. And I have no idea what it is in Swedish:) Good job.
  5. Hi all. Here is another build log from me...again. I did a rethinking at home. Until now I have always had the idea to build what I am currently working on before I start a new build. This actually only result on pressure on me because often when I new kit is released or I find some kit that I am rally exiting on I buy them. But with the thinking that I need to build the old ones first this result in that they end up on the shelf and becomes "old ones" because the initial excitement is lost. So from now on, when I buy a new kit (this don't correspond to the wooden ships because this i another matter) so will I build it directly. And then work my way backward in my collection instead. So here is my new build log over the new Supermarine Spitfire from Tamiya that I received at my birthday in June. I also want to have some easy builds at the side of Sherbourne. The Tamiya kits are wonderful and are always relaxing builds with minimal sanding and because the fitting is so good. Here is the content in the box: Here are the main tools that I am using when building plastic kits: So lets begin. I start with the cockpit and here was it some ejector pins that were needed to fix. Shame on you Tamiya... I don't know if I did some mistake but there was a step on both sides between the upper and lower part of the fuselage. And also my often repeated problem with using to much Tamiya extra thin glue... But this was easily fixed with some sanding. I use masking tape to protect details when I am sanding. The cockpit is really good but some touches are needed to improve it. A 0.6 mm drill in this case. Here is the assembled parts of the cockpit so you can see the high degree of detail. And dry assembled After this I primed the parts. I use a mix of Mr paint primer and Mr hobby primer. I mixed them because my bottle of Mr paint primer was broken... All the details come to life when primer is applied. This is all for now.
  6. Looks good. For the second planking I only used superglue in combination with wood glue. In the beginning I used pins at the sides but they did marks on the edge of the wood. The superglue is doing the same work as a pin and you can press it in place with your fingers. Then the superglue will keep it in place until the wood glue sets.
  7. Nice work and good with another Sherbourne. Good works so far and I will follow.
  8. 1/64 fits me perfect. I also want to have the same scale on all ships I build so it is possible to compare them. But if it is a battle ship or something like that then 1:350 is perfect. I think 1/48 and 1/200 just are too big. 1/48 is for aircrafts:)
  9. Look really good:) It is your model and you do what you want:) I put hatches on my oar ports.. Maybe missed this before but will you oil or paint it? Much easier to oil it:) Too much work has to be done before painting wood.
  10. Thank you Jon and Henrik. The master pieces on this site (for example La Créole by archjofo) is so full of details so it blow your mind. I am hence also trying to add as much as I can because I really like the "busy" look. And one reason more is that I want to learn how to craft it it all and every part is practice
  11. Hi again Have manage to do some more work. The inner hull is now painted and the color ended up to be Admiralty Red Ochre and I really feels that this is the right color. It is little bit bright red on the photo but it is darker in reality. I like the color contrast between the red and the dark brown and black. (some touch ups is still needed:) ) I then made transom knee (i think it is called) on the stern. Here will also bee some belaying points. They are not on the kits drawing but I follow Lennart Peterssons book Rigging Period Fore and aft craft. Here is how I done them. First I did templates in stiff paper. I started with the little complicated angles. Then I glued the templates on wood and sand down to the right form. I glued (very little) the wood parts together and applied the outer form and the sand it to shape in my milling machine. After priming, filling priming and airbrushing this is the result. Maybe to much primer and color... Don't mind the shiny color, it has not totally set yet. I also added details in the stem in the same way as above. The parts are false post and a deck hook. Here I followed Dubs Sherbourne because I really like these details. I think they add a "deep" to the model. This is all for now. Have some touch ups to do tomorrow and then will I start to focus on the drift rails.

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