
paulb
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Coppering McKay used a Mercator projection for the copper plates: 2 lines are important: A-B en A-C. these lines separate the surface into three sections and meet at the bow. Line A-C is easy. It is a straight line, as the numbers of rows of copper plates are the same from back to front. To calculate distances I relied on the number of plates, rather than centimetres. the A-B line is a bit more tricky: I marked a number of points, proportionally measured, from the gunports. Then I connected the dots to make a line with joins the A-C line at point A. Line A-B is important as the row of plates below that line has uncut plates. Glueing: I started next to the keel, filled section 3, but stopped well before line A-B. Midship I could continue all the way until line A-B because it only has uncut plates. Than I determined the exact position of line A-B The line A-B which I drew was only an approximation. As soon as I reached line A-B I finished that line to point A. Only then I filled up section 3, direction bow, against line A-B.
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Fitting the lining of the gunports - the lower lining has no stop, sloping a few degrees downward.(rainwater). - the upper lining runs horizontally, parallel to the gun barrels, - the side lining are positioned at a 90 degree angle to the ship's heart line (see McKay) - the stops recess 1mm compared to the planking of the hull, but of course more than that compared to the wales. When making the lids I will compensate for the thickness of the wales. Starboard: Port:
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Gunports Lining the gun ports: the lining can only be done from outside. I made a small tool for holding the lining, glueing it and releasing it again. Courtesy of Gill. It is made of 3 *bucks woodensticks, a wedge-shaped piece of wood and a bent brass strip. From the side: With a level attached. The lower lining will have no stop for the lids. There is some discussion about stops on the side linings.
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Wales The lower wale consist of 4 rows of "top-and-butt-system" with a 1mm "black strake" on top, the middle wale consists of 2 rows "anchor stock planks" with a row of straight planks on top which are connected with scarfs. The upper wales are simply 3 rows of planks with connecting scarfs. For each different plank I made a metal jig. The lower and middle wale: And the three wales together:
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Hi fellow builders, After 2 years of trying to build the HMS Victory, using the Caldercraft kit I think it's time to show some of my efforts on this forum. I live in Utrecht, The Netherlands, and I regard this as a 10-year project. Building is the fun part, time is of no essence as the fun is much less when the model is finished (speaking for myself). I chose the HMS Victory for several reasons: - The Caldergraft kit is essentially historically correct, although some research is still necessary. - The kit is technically very good, most parts fit without much adjustment - The "original" 1805 Travalgar version of the ship can still be visited in Portmouth and plenty of photo's circulate on the internet, therefore building a historically "correct" model is easier than of many other ships. - Many books can be found on the subject like Longridge, McKay and others. over time I collected a (very) small library on the subject. - There are some build logs of the Victory on the internet of excellent builders, notably Gil Middleton. In some instances my choices differ from theirs, but I will explain my choices as much as possible. In the weeks to follow I wil show the progress so far, which is as far as the 30 cannons on the Upper Gun Deck. Some basic facts about the HMS Victory: The HMS Victory was (and is) the flagship of the English Navy which defeated the combined French-Spanish fleet during the Battle of Trafalgar. Admiral Lord Nelson was mortally wounded during battle by a French sniper, but England won the battle. The HMS Victory is the 5th ship with this name and the largest by far. The ship was ordered in 1758. It is a First Rate Ship with more than 100 cannons. The design of the ship was completely devoted to firepower In 1805 (Trafalgar) ther were: - on the Lower Gun Deck: 30 cannons for 32-pound balls - on the Middle Gun Deck: 28 cannons for 24-pound balls - on the Upper Gun Deck: 30 cannons for 12-pound balls - on the Quarterdeck: 12 cannons for 12-pound balls - on the Forecastle: 2 cannons voor 12-pound balls and 2 carronades for 68-ponds balls(!!) The total length of the ship is about 70 meter, water displacement more than 2000 tons and almost 5500 square meter of sail can be carried. Some other numbers: 40km rope in the rigging, 1400 blocks, 300 tons of "potable" water, 50 tons of coals, 20 tons of wood, 50 tons of beer, etc. Index First and second planking Wales Gunports Coppering Upper gun deck, cannons and fittings Quarter Deck Forecastle Bow Poop Deck Stern Fascia Quarter Galleries Hull details First an impression of the progress so far. I will try not to bore you with every individual bulkhead and plank. Details will be provided on request (of course).
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Hi Rich, Nice work. Some builders use tulle. It is available in white, grey and black (and a variety of other colours as well). It may help to soak it in diluted PVA, mould it and let it set. I hope this is of some help. Paul
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