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paulb

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About paulb

  • Birthday 11/09/1957

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    Utrecht, The Netherlands

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  1. And I changed the iron bands, for them to be under the rubbing paunch: Should be okay now
  2. A few modifications. Changing the blocks on the bowsprit from deadeyes to closed heart. (neither sounds nice in real life...) First how I seized the blocks; the challenge is to have a tight fit around the bowsprit and having the blocks in the right place. The first is already fitted. It takes some calculations to know the distances, but one knows the diameter of the bowsprit and circumference is Pi times diameter. A 0,25mm thread through the 0.40mm thread. Back at the right distances for the circumference of the block plus th
  3. Again I have to correct a mistake. The iron bands run UNDER the rubbing paunch. Easy to correct. Picture to follow.
  4. What puzzles me on the picture are the steel bars on the picture and no sign of deadeye blocks. Are the bars used to fasten the shrouds? The battens run over the gunwale and taper towards the centre. I have added a plank on the aft side of the top, on which the stanchions will come for the rail and netting. Deadeyes glued in place. Painted several times. I added a lining on the port, starboard and fore sides of the top, like on the real top. The short side of the battens are thereby protected from damaging them.
  5. The Fore Mast: Quite a bit of sorting out. Unfortunately I made pictures without my SD card in the camera. So there is more result than process😕. Here the cheeks on top of iron bands, bibbs in place as well as the rubbing paunch. Filed grooves to accommodate the bands. Filled up the space between the bibbs and the rubbing paunch, very much like Lees draws it. More iron bands: Then the fore mast top. Crosstrees and trestletrees. Gunwale glues to the top platform.
  6. On another forum it was noticed that the deadeyes for the bobstays and shrouds are not period correct. They should be closed heart blocks. This is confirmed by pictures of the actual Victory and by McKay and Longridge. Lees mentions both options. As soon as they arrive from the USA I will change them.
  7. Masting and rigging. I have a feeling this is nicer than building the hull. Less mass production and more smaller, single projects. There is some conflicting information, so I do some research for which I , apart from the manual use books by Zu Mondfeld, Rigging Period Ship Models (Lennarth Peterson), The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War (James Lees), and The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships (C.N. Longridge) and of course pictures from the HMS Victory in Portsmouth. I will try to explain the choices I make. The bowsprit It started simpel: The bees Bee blocks
  8. Thanks a lot guys for all the likes. Heinz, all you have to do is send me a personal message. The hull is finished😌. The poop ladder hand rail: And than the brass profiles. I followed both the manual and pictures. Not happy with the decorative scroll in the kit, and I made some myself: And in situ: Three of them: And painted: And an overview of the work so far. Next: the simulated front gun ports of the lower and middle gun decks. With
  9. There was still a left-over thing to do on the poop deck: the signal flags. The signal flags which were used in 1805 were published in 1799 by Captain Sir Home Popham. The set of flags consisted of 10 numerical flags (1-10) and 5 other flags (preparatory, substitute, affirmative, finish and dissent). There was a 38 pages long book with words and their corresponding numerical code (e.g. 253 means England). This signal flag system was replaced by several others, until in 1857 it was supplanted by the Commercial Code of Signals published by the British Board of Trade. However, Nels
  10. The waist deck stanchions: Not much to say, except that I rounded the 1.5x1.5mm walnut strips on the deck. A bigger challenge were the guns on the forecastle. They are 12 pounders medium guns. Their position is clear, but how were they held in place at sea? I am pretty sure they didn't glue them on the deck... None of the books, nor the internet gave me a clear answer. Middleton put them at the forecastle gun ports, fully rigged. I decided to follow some other model builders and used the tackle to fix the guns. This is most likely a good solution.
  11. The two sheet anchors have palm blocks on top of the waist capping. The ones in the kit are a bit too simple to be realistic, and I modified them: The bower anchor palm blocks will follow. Paul
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