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About paulb

  • Birthday 11/09/1957

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    Utrecht, The Netherlands

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  1. Then the gun port assemblies. I finished the lower gun deck gun port assemblies on the starboard side. First I had to thicken part of of the gun port lids in order to follow the thickening of the wale, when closed. The gun ports lids are all different that way. The gun port lids of the lower gun deck have scuttles. The hinges are glued on top of a veru thing piece of styreen to indicate the scuttle. On the inside of the scuttle there is a latch, to keep the scuttle closed. I used two eyelets and a short piece of brass wire to mimic this. Before fitting the gun ports, I glued the rigols in place, after blackening them with brass black. According to the manual one is supposed to glue the upper end of the hinges directly unto the hull. This I found less appealing because there is no knuckle to be seen. I decided to use a bend nail and glue it to the hinge. Then it was just a matter of drilling two holes in the hull, and glue the pins in place. The gun port lids shown are from the middle gun deck. Then the ropes to open the lid; two for each lid. Or are they called chains?? To mimic a splice I followed the suggestion by Middleton. I thought that just drilled holes in the hull to pass the rope through is not historically correct. Therefore I punched styreen rounds to mimic the disc on the hull of the real Victory, and, using 0,5mm silicon tubing used in recreational angling, I mimicked the protective tubing.
  2. Following almost one year of relative inactivity (in terms of building the Victory☺️), things have started again. First the channels and chain plates. The channels are lined with styreen half rounds and the studding sail boom bracket and support are fitted as well as the channel support brackets. It is important to observe the direction of the chain plates and the dead eyes. The chain plates have to be lined up with the shrouds. Also the dead eyes should be rotated in the right position: the eyes of the lower dead eye (fitted now) should be positioned directly opposite the eyes of the upper dead eye (the one which connects to the shrouds). In that way the forces of the shroud will be evenly distributed. By putting a thin ribbon from the position of the lowest top over the dead eye the direction of the chain plate and the position of the eyes in the dead becomes clear.
  3. Thanks Mort. I bought the sheaves on-line in Holland: but I guess you can find them in any good shop for ship modelling. A small addition regarding the chesstree: I found this picture on a Dutch ship modelling forum. It confirms what Frankie mentioned: the chesstree is mainly, or purely, a fairlead for the Tacks (chesstree is halsklamp in Dutch, eeuw means century).
  4. I have to make a correction, following some discussion on Kevin’s log. The chesstree has nothing to do with lowering the anchor but has a sheave for the main sail tack, which then passes through a sheave in the hull, and then to a giant cleat on the gun deck. Apparently the forces on this tack were enormous, and the chesstree was therefore very heavy. Fortunately I have included all the appropriate sheaves😅
  5. You’re quite right Frankie, about the chesstree. Thnx.
  6. Hull details Next are the side entry, with steps, the fenders and chesstrees. The painting of the side entry port was a nice painting job. I covered the passage with walnut. The steps were somewhat of a hassle. It was only now that I found out that the lower gunport pattern was placed too far towards the stern, No idea how that happened. Anyway, I had to shorten the steps to make them fit nicely. Another problem was the distance between steps. In order to get the right step near the side entry I had to make the distances of the lower steps a bit bigger than the upper steps. Unfortunately the elm tree pump tube lining was not in the black section. Also the fenders can be seen here. The chesstrees serve as a protection of the hull when lowering the anchor. In the Caldercraft kit it is curved on the outside in order to follow the curve of the hull. Both McKay and in the original Victory the outside is straight, so that's what I did. Additionally I noticed that in McKay and in the manual the chesstree butts up against the underside of the waist capping rail, unlike the situation on the original Victory. I decided to follow McKay. I included a sheave to accommodate the tack. Next: the port side
  7. Don’t worry Jerry, you’re in the clear. 😊 See post 899 of your log. Paul
  8. Yeah, that’s the one. You can find it on the same wooden sheet as the other chesstree and the fenders. It’s there to protect the hull when lowering the anchor. Good luck.
  9. Very inspirational, Nick. I like your attention to detail. A great example for my own build. Paul
  10. Hi Kevin, Been following your log and I'm most impressed. Thank you for the beautiful pictures. One question: I am presently working on the chesstrees, and I couldn't help noticing that yours seems to be missing on the port side of the ship. Is that on purpose? The original Victory has chesstrees on both sides... Otherwise: lots of respect! Paul
  11. HI Mort, I'm glad you like my build. Unfortunately I can't find yours on MSW. Would like to see it. About the stern: yes, the stern fascia has 2 blades, the first one is mounted quite early in the process. The outer fascia I prepared completely on my work top, and then glued it onto the inner one, but I added some styrene strips to mimic the striped pattern on the sides. If I understand your 2nd question correctly: yes, the rear edge of parts 105 and 106 are flush with the gun port patterns. In that way the inner stern fascia remains straight (as does the outer one). I hope this answers your questions. Good luck with your Victory project!
  12. Quarter Galleries The quarter galleries indeed. And I thought the bow was difficult... I started with the starboard gallery. It was only now that I realized the lower three window frames were sloping up towards the stern. After doubting for a long time I decided to cut out the lower windows, and refit them, starting on the port side. And refit this panel and redo the strips and paintwork Now the same process on starboard. The gallery on starboard has also been changed
  13. Stern Fascia Thanks for the nice comments. Later than expected an update,Rich. I finished the work on the Stern Fascia. Lots of details, especially the trophy of arms. Let's start at the beginning: fitting the window frames. I followed the suggestion of Gil Middleton: "Placing the windows from behind (opposite from instructions) gave much better definition to windows." Therefore I cut out the rabbets at the back of the sheet (the non-exposed side): The result: Global painting: And painting the loose ornaments and gluing them: Next: painting of the Trophy of Arms : roughly the black and white: and more detailing and gluing: The black rectangles between the window frames are cut from styrene strips and painted black. This gives well defined edges. I decided to copy the HMS Victory as good as possible, so I included the striped black/yellow pattern on the sides of the stern fascia I used 0,5mm styrene strips, and painted their sides in the right colour: to get this effect: The end result: About some details: some edges above and below the baluster patterns have been thickened with quarter round strips. This gave the whole thing a bit more body. Additionally I included 4 eyelet below the baluster patterns. You see them on the present HMS Vistory. Next project: the quarter galleries

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