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About paulb

  • Birthday 11/09/1957

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    Utrecht, The Netherlands

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  1. Thanks Mort. I bought the sheaves on-line in Holland: but I guess you can find them in any good shop for ship modelling. A small addition regarding the chesstree: I found this picture on a Dutch ship modelling forum. It confirms what Frankie mentioned: the chesstree is mainly, or purely, a fairlead for the Tacks (chesstree is halsklamp in Dutch, eeuw means century).
  2. I have to make a correction, following some discussion on Kevin’s log. The chesstree has nothing to do with lowering the anchor but has a sheave for the main sail tack, which then passes through a sheave in the hull, and then to a giant cleat on the gun deck. Apparently the forces on this tack were enormous, and the chesstree was therefore very heavy. Fortunately I have included all the appropriate sheaves😅
  3. Hull details Next are the side entry, with steps, the fenders and chesstrees. The painting of the side entry port was a nice painting job. I covered the passage with walnut. The steps were somewhat of a hassle. It was only now that I found out that the lower gunport pattern was placed too far towards the stern, No idea how that happened. Anyway, I had to shorten the steps to make them fit nicely. Another problem was the distance between steps. In order to get the right step near the side entry I had to make the distances of the lower steps a bit bigger than the upper steps. Unfortunately the elm tree pump tube lining was not in the black section. Also the fenders can be seen here. The chesstrees serve as a protection of the hull when lowering the anchor. In the Caldercraft kit it is curved on the outside in order to follow the curve of the hull. Both McKay and in the original Victory the outside is straight, so that's what I did. Additionally I noticed that in McKay and in the manual the chesstree butts up against the underside of the waist capping rail, unlike the situation on the original Victory. I decided to follow McKay. I included a sheave to accommodate the tack. Next: the port side
  4. Don’t worry Jerry, you’re in the clear. 😊 See post 899 of your log. Paul
  5. Yeah, that’s the one. You can find it on the same wooden sheet as the other chesstree and the fenders. It’s there to protect the hull when lowering the anchor. Good luck.
  6. Very inspirational, Nick. I like your attention to detail. A great example for my own build. Paul
  7. Hi Kevin, Been following your log and I'm most impressed. Thank you for the beautiful pictures. One question: I am presently working on the chesstrees, and I couldn't help noticing that yours seems to be missing on the port side of the ship. Is that on purpose? The original Victory has chesstrees on both sides... Otherwise: lots of respect! Paul
  8. HI Mort, I'm glad you like my build. Unfortunately I can't find yours on MSW. Would like to see it. About the stern: yes, the stern fascia has 2 blades, the first one is mounted quite early in the process. The outer fascia I prepared completely on my work top, and then glued it onto the inner one, but I added some styrene strips to mimic the striped pattern on the sides. If I understand your 2nd question correctly: yes, the rear edge of parts 105 and 106 are flush with the gun port patterns. In that way the inner stern fascia remains straight (as does the outer one). I hope this answers your questions. Good luck with your Victory project!
  9. Quarter Galleries The quarter galleries indeed. And I thought the bow was difficult... I started with the starboard gallery. It was only now that I realized the lower three window frames were sloping up towards the stern. After doubting for a long time I decided to cut out the lower windows, and refit them, starting on the port side. And refit this panel and redo the strips and paintwork Now the same process on starboard. The gallery on starboard has also been changed
  10. Stern Fascia Thanks for the nice comments. Later than expected an update,Rich. I finished the work on the Stern Fascia. Lots of details, especially the trophy of arms. Let's start at the beginning: fitting the window frames. I followed the suggestion of Gil Middleton: "Placing the windows from behind (opposite from instructions) gave much better definition to windows." Therefore I cut out the rabbets at the back of the sheet (the non-exposed side): The result: Global painting: And painting the loose ornaments and gluing them: Next: painting of the Trophy of Arms : roughly the black and white: and more detailing and gluing: The black rectangles between the window frames are cut from styrene strips and painted black. This gives well defined edges. I decided to copy the HMS Victory as good as possible, so I included the striped black/yellow pattern on the sides of the stern fascia I used 0,5mm styrene strips, and painted their sides in the right colour: to get this effect: The end result: About some details: some edges above and below the baluster patterns have been thickened with quarter round strips. This gave the whole thing a bit more body. Additionally I included 4 eyelet below the baluster patterns. You see them on the present HMS Vistory. Next project: the quarter galleries
  11. I was not happy with the clumsy skylight which came with the kit, and so weren't some of my Dutch forum friends. Decided to make one from scratch. I made a small cage from 3x3 and 2x3 walnut. On top strips of 0,5x3mm. The window frames I made from styrene, which I painted black, the skirting are styrene as well, painted brownish. The window frames on top I made from photo-etch scrap material. And some merciless macros.
  12. Thanks Graham and Heinz, it's a pleasure. Time for an update of the Poop Deck. Time-consuming work, but fun doing it. First I spent some time figuring out what the flag locker looks like. Fortunately "HMS Victory, 1765-1812 (first rate ship of the line) Owners' Workshop Manual by Peter Goodwin, has many nice pictures, one of them showing the locker: I like the Roman numbers, probably indicating where the signal flags were supposed to be stored. They used the Popham signal flags, each flag signifying a number from 0-9. Another feature is the covering of 4 holes, where the outer transom knees appear. This is my version of the locker, flags will follow: The overview of the Poop Deck shows a few modifications from the manual: - the timberheads (the ones that stick out) should be round, rather than square, and should have a sheave. - in between the inner transom knees, at the bottom, there should be an extra piece of timber, holding the flag mast. - the outer edge of the Poop is constructed in a certain way, which is not very clear from the manual: This is the original. The edge of the Poop runs straight, but the moulding runs from the quarter round edge aft and upwards to meet the Poop edge behind the deadeyes. I tried to (sort of) copy this structure: Next: the skylight. Contrary to the manual, the skylight has a rounded roof, which follows the curve of the deck: As you can see I added 2x2 sheaves in the Mizzen Topsail Sheet Bitts. This required 2 newly made bitts from scratch, as the original ones were too thin to accommodate the sheaves. Then the fire bucket assembly. The Poop Deck Barricade Rail follows the curve of the deck. I followed the suggestion of Gil Middleton and first glued the buckets to the decorative beam. The beam provided by Caldercraft is hardly decorative, and is too short (it fits between the Poop Ladders). Originally the beam runs along the whole Poop plank sheer, as one can see here: I know, it is risky to compare the original ships with macro's of the model. Please ignore the dust. The buckets were made brownish with Krick Brass Brown fluid. In some pictures on the internet the buckets are brown, in others black. I used decals to put the King George Monogram on the buckets. The yellow was completely transparent on the decal, so I put a bit of yellow paint on the bucket, and then put on the decal. For the fire bucket handle I used two brass eyelets and 0,25mm black rope. Finally I glued the Poop Ladder Assembly in position. Next chapter is the Stern Fascia.

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