Cap'n Rat Fink

Hello Hakan,
    Nice to see you building again. I built 2 of these boats. One for my home, the other went to our church. Have fun I will be watching. This is the 1/24 scale model and the book I used almost extensively plus versus in the bible.

Next installment, some kind of a keel and stem.
Since this boat will be generic I am using my artistic license to build as it suits me. 
 
For safety measures I glued the stem in place twice. Well, not really for safety, it was more of the so familiar:  
"I can do better than that" kind of joint...
 
Happy enough with my second try. The stern came in place somewhat easier. You cant avoid being very humble when you look at other masters work here on MWS. Joints without gaps, straight and true pieces and all. Well well, I might get there some day when time permits.
 
Here are a couple of images of the work so far. Stem and stern are glued and pinned even though I really dont think they would fall off without pins. I took a hot kettle of water to make the stem part with the keel. And it is not really the keel either since it will be a waterline model.
 
Pictures, yes, here they are:
 

 

 
Camera in question is the cell phone, hence the warped corners. 
 
Next up will be to form a floor/bottom for the boat. Since the boat will be half full with sand to position candles in I want to make it a confined structure.
 

Thank you for your interest.
 
I dont mind chair squeeking, the row up front is almost always available (at least in church ...lol )
 
Today I practised sanding to true angles. Big pieces make for forgiving progress...
 
Pinned and glued. The bamboo pin blends nicely into the oak.
 

 
Next up will be the keel, I think.
What I forgot to say is that it will be a waterline model. And for constructions, well, I will return to that topic further down the line.
 

Hi fellow builders!
 
So, first scratch build as well as first build in a fairly long time...what can be of this you say. Actually it is a build that I've been commissioned to do. That doesnt happen too often. For this particular commission I will not charge any payment, it is for pure fun.
 
Quick background story (to keep with MSW rules of non-this and non-that content):
Our pastor came up to me and asked about ideas for a candle holder to place in our church. A candle holder, usually found in Lutheran and Catholic churches, can have the form of a globe, a tree or just a box filled with sand to put small Christmas tree sized candles in.
 
"A boat" was my immediate thought. I tested the idea and it was received well so I went home and took out my sketchbook. But what form should the boat be of? Anything open of course. Reverted to Google that told me about a excavation some 30 years ago at the shore of the Sea of Galilee.
http://www.jesusboat.com/Story-of-the-Jesus-Boat
How appropriate! A boat from the time around the start of our calendar. Not unlikely a type that Jesus, himself, rode in.
Search "Galilee" in our forums and you will see both scratch builds as well as kit.
 
Anyway, out from my pencil came the below sketch. Never mind the tables, they are a separate story. The sketch was presented to the board and accepted. Return question was: "When can it be ready?"
Guess I have to start making sawdust.
 

 
But first I made a card skeleton to grasp the needed size. As it turned out the finished boat needed to be some 20% bigger than the card model.
 

 

 
Obviously the finished boat will be of wood, not card. But card is quick and easy to do a mock up in.
 
Scale, might someone ask for. No such thing. My boat will some 75 cm long from stem to stern. I have blown up the mid section to care for more candles. There is some plan of the real thing on the site above which shows a flat bottom, rather upright sides and curved stem and stern and then the distinct feature of the cutwater. Like found on Roman ships of the time.
 
Wood then? It will be oak. Rather uncommon on these pages because of it coarse grain. The real thing was build in Mediterranean species of which I have none...also the size of my model will cater for rather sturdy dimensions. Oak is known to bend well and it looks great when aged. Another feature of the oak I will use is that it is salvaged from an old motor boat from the 1940s...the trees that was used started to grow some 200-250 years ago...
 
Here are some pieces that I picked out, arent they nice?
 

 
Well, after some hand planing and a couple of runs through my thickness planer the blanks for the stern looks like this:
 

 
That is how far I've come now. 
As always, daywork will interfere with time in the workshop, but I will make the most of it.
 
 

I wanted to have the lower gudgeon and pintle assembly in place before I painted the model.  I decided on a technique that I had never used before. I may have "re-invented the wheel,"  but for me it was something new.  After removing the temper and oxidation from a strip of brass that was supplied with the kit, I bent it into the desired shape.  After applying some flux to the piece, I placed a strip of "sacrificial" wood in position, so that it would act as a dam.  Small bits of Stay-Brite solder were then placed inside the area and heated with a micro torch.

When the Stay-Brite melted, it had a tendency to bead up, and not completely fill the area.  I took a flat tool, and compressed the hot solder, forcing it to fill the void.

I then filed away the residue, and shaped the piece.


For the pintles, I opted to epoxy the pin in place, rather than include it in the soldering process.  I just felt that it would be a lot easier to file down the piece to its correct shape if the pin was installed afterwards.

For me, the hardest part of this procedure was getting the brass strips shaped exactly the way I wanted them, so they would fit properly around the stern post and rudder.  The rest of the technique was pretty straight forward.
 
BobF

The photos of  the long boats in the National Maritime Museum continue to influence my building of this model.  Apparently, It was quite common for the gudgeon/pintle arrangement on these craft to differ from other vessels.  The lower pintles were fastened to the stern post, and the upper pintles were attached to the rudder in the conventional manner.  Attached, is a portion of a drawing of a similar boat from the same period.

Modifying the location of the lower pintle was no more difficult than if it hand been mounted on the rudder.  The only extra work involved cutting out the recess in the stern post, and filling in the same area in the rudder.


At the bow, I decided to modify the upper portion of the stem.  Again, the NMM photos were the reason, although I like the appearance of the stem as featured in the kit.

Originally, I stated that painting was next, but I reconsidered.  After studying some photos of contemporary long boat models at the National Maritime Museum, I decided to make some small changes on my model.  The first involved the addition of a thin plank under the molding strip.  These thicker planks may have been there to provide additional strength for mounting the chain plates.

The wood I used was dogwood.  It is similar to boxwood, but is very flexible, which was a plus in this case.  The markings the wood possesses are not a problem, since the plank will be painted.

Two other changes involved the addition of strips under the caprail on the inboard side, and the breast hook being attached so that it is flush with the top of the caprail.  In the kit it is mounted under the caprail.

In the kit, the staysail halyard block is attached to the breast hook.  On the NMM models this block is attached to the apron located under the breast hook, which is what I intend to do.

 

You might say that I've been in the Summer Doldrums, although mine sometimes extend well into November or December!  Anyway, it's been a while since I posted anything, so here is what I've accomplished, as minimal as it might be.
 
I've decided to try something a little different as far as the molding strip is concerned.  I glued a copy of the frieze on to the hull with rubber cement, so it could be removed after the molding strip is glued on.  I intend to airbrush the painted surfaces of the model, so, hopefully, I'll have clean, crisp lines between the different colors when I'm finished.  Since I'm using Elmer's white glue, I can also make minor adjustments to the molding strip if there is any deviation in the run.  The down side to all this will be getting the friezes to fit properly when it's time to glue them on.  Stay tuned, mates.

I probably drew my two parallel lines way too far out, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

The instructions state that the inboard and outboard overhang for the caprail should be 1/64", which is about .016".  I took a strip of Evergreen plastic that was approximately .018" thick, and used it as a reference for sanding the caprail to the proper width.

If you look closely, you can see pencil marks on the plastic.  I kept sanding until those marks started to disappear.  That worked out pretty well.  It gave me a consistent edge along the entire hull.

I have to admit that I thought such a small amount of overhang wouldn't be enough, but it turned out to be just right.  I really have to learn to trust Chuck's judgement.  He hasn't been wrong yet!

Well, I'm working on the cap rails.  Really nothing monumental there.  So far, it's been the easiest procedure on the model.  Since I'm taking photos of the procedure for our Tri-Club Group Build, I thought I'd post a few for this group.
 

I decided to leave the forward most, and aft most bulkheads in while I thin down the rest of the frames.  The first photo shows the tools that I have been using.  I started out with the mallet shaped sander, which I copied from this discussion group.  Although it worked well, I thought I'd try the rubber device that was cut from a larger piece.  This was more convenient since I could easily rotate the sandpaper as it lost it's grit.


At this point, I happened to speak to Toni, and she suggested using a Dremel Moto Tool, which could speed the process up quite a bit.  Although I have a Dremel, I decided to use a smaller and lighter unit that I purchased at Harbor Freight.  For light duty work, this tool works quite well, and I was able to get it for only $9.00 on sale.


It runs off of a power pack, which I plugged into a Dremel variable speed drive unit.  The biggest problem is the screw head that holds the 220 grit sanding disk in place.  I chamfered the edges so it wouldn't damage the model, if the head rubbed up against it.  That's worked out well.  The sanding disk is flexible, which also helps.  I tried a coarser disk, but it started taking too much off, and I wasn't happy with the results.


This little power tool is really speeding up the process, but you have to use a light touch, and you don't want to get too agressive with it.  Hopefully, the next time you hear from me, I'll be working on the cap rail.
 

Hello all,
 
Things have been a bit crazy for me lately, and I haven't had a lot of time to work on the longboat.  However, since my last post, I did finish the planking, but I certainly didn't break any records!  Here are a series of photos that show my progress.  In this next photo, I have five planks left on each side, and I'm using the Magic Tape method to spile the planks.

With only four planks to go on each side, the spiling is becoming noticeably easier.

Whith only three planks to go, I stopped spiling and formed the planks by eye.

At this point, because the curve of the planks wasn't that great, I was able to do a true edge-bend on the planks.

As you can see in this next photo, the bend is not that great.  There were only two left on each side at this point.

In this photo, the next to last plank is being mounted.  If I had to do it over again, I probably would have tapered the previous three or four planks a little bit more at the bow.

Here are a series of photos of the completed planking job.  This little hull has very pleasing lines,

Now that I no longer have to contend with the false keel, and I have a couple of planks glued to the transom, I've decided to change my approach as far as shaping the planks is concerned. You may recall that before gluing a completed plank in place, I used it as a template for the next plank.  This procedure, at least, got me in the ballpark. For the rest of the model, I'm going to use the "Magic Tape" method, which works pretty well, especially in a situation where you're trying to run one continuous strake from bow to stern.

I understand that some modelers duplicate the edge of the mounted plank by rubbing an impression in the tape, but I've found that a sharp pencil also works.  You don't have to press as hard, and since I'm working with basswood, that may be especially important.


The template you get from the rubbing may not be perfect, in fact mine rarely are, but they get you pretty close.

If I were spiling a plank for a larger model, I'd be using the concave part of the cutout.  However, since I'm edge-bending the planks, I'm going to use the convex portion as a guide.  The next two photos aren't pretty, but I think you get the idea.  The white pieces of paper under the clamps minimize the chance that the clamps will leave impressions in the soft basswood.  I'm using a sheet of glass as a base for this procedure because it's perfectly flat, impervious to water, and is quite thin, which allows me to use smaller clamps.


As suggested in the instructions, you can dry the plank with a hairdryer, or just leave it for a few hours, while you work on something else.

If the plank isn't quite right, I just dampen the area in question, and repeat the procedure.

With the addition of the fourth plank on each side, it was time to put the transom on.  Like my fellow Tri-Club member, Toni, I decided to brace up the piece with two strips of scrap wood, rather than the two planks recommended in the instructions.  The tick marks seem to be working out pretty well, so I'm going to continue adding planks from the keel up.  As I approach those braces, the transom should be pretty stable, and the bracing will be removed.  Anyway, that's my plan.  We'll see what happens.

Here are a series of photos of the third plank being worked on.  Nothing really different with this strake, other than the fact that it has a much more abrupt twist at the stern. Maybe it's my imagnation, but the curve at the bow also seems to be more pronounced.  Anyway, I like to concentrate on shaping the forward end of the plank first, since the stern hasn't given me much of a problem.


 
Once the forward portion fits pretty well, I mark where the plank starts changing shape at the stern, and begin working with it.


 
These photos show that abrupt twist and the final result.


 
 

I forgot to mention that a new tick strip has to be created for most of the bulkheads, especially as you approach the bow and stern.  The bulkhead just ahead of where the garboard strake ends will have one less tick mark (12), and the bulkhead forward of that will have 11 tick marks.  At least, that's the way I'm planning it.
 
I have to admit that I looked long and hard at the various longboats being worked on by this group as well as my Tri-Club group, before I laid my first plank.  The concept of edge-bending a plank was new to me.
 
I found that the most dificult aspect of forming the garboard strakes was deciding how much taper to give them at the bow.  I used a plank bending iron to configure the twist at the stern.  Prior to attaching them to the hull, I used them as templates to form the forward end of the first broadstrakes.

 
The instructions are quite explicit about starting the garboard strake just forward of the scarph joint, which is what I did.

 
I was surprised by the amount of curvature that was necessary to bring the next plank around the garboard strake, but it worked out OK.  The planks also required quite a bit of bevel at the bow, almost a sharp edge, in order to fit them properly into the rabbet.  I'm wondering if I didn't bevel the false keel enough.  Hopefully, it won't be visible on the finished model.

The rest of the bulkheads went on without any problem, and were beveled.  I decided to leave the transom off until the garboard strake and first two broadstrakes are attached to the hull.  Like Toni, I decided to use the tick-strip method for planking the model.  In the photo, the distance from the rabbet to the top of a bulkhead is being marked off.

 
I then located the corresponding bulkhead on the plans, and lined the strip up with the top of that bulkhead.  The sheerline was then marked on the strip.

 
The distance between the sheerline and the bottom of the strip was divided into eaqual segments by using what I call a "planking grid." I think it's also referred to as a "diminishing grid."  I opted to plank my hull with thirteen strakes per side.  I just felt that it would allow for a little more wood on each kit-supplied strip during the spiling process.  Hopefully, the reduction of each plank by 1/12th won't be that noticeable.

 
The tick marks were then transfered to the corresponding bulkheads. Planking is next.

I didn't necessarily follow Clay's practicum.  It was enjoyable working with the hardwoods provided by dlumberyard; swiss pear, maple, boxwood, apple.  When you pick it up you know it ain't basswood.

I have a series of pics taken while work was in progress which illustrate techniques I have not seen in other logs.  I also have not seen, even after a search of the site, this particular model.  I would be happy to post these pics, with comments of course, in sequence if others think it would be helpful.
 
Past this point, I have built tops.  There is also a scratch-built yawl, visible on deck, done in a novel manner.

Carl, thanks for telling me it’s OK to have vinyl, it is easier to take care of than cloth.
Lawrence, thanks for the good words and encouragement.
 
If you recall, back on page three I had started to add the deck framing around the cockpit area.  Then I decided to make the cockpit a separate part like I did the cabin interior.  So the deck framing had to come off.  Then after the cabin and cockpit were “done” I again added the deck frames.(sorry no pictures) and started to lay the deck when I saw more things I wanted to do inside but I couldn’t work through the deck framing and it had to come off again.  That's when I took the idea from Patrick (Omega1234) and made the deck a separate part.  Thanks to Patrick I can make changes to the insides when I like.  But now I don’t like the deck.  It’s the calking.  It would be alright for a larger work boat but for a nice pleasure boat I feel the calking needs to be crisper and more definite.  So that’s where I am right now.  Another deck to make.  Hopefully the last for this boat.
 
Bob
 

 

 

Moving right along, the benches are mounted.  I used .010” card stock to space the.030” bench slats. (.5” space between 1.5” slats) I also carved and put in place the tiller.  Now with just a little more work at the companion way I’ll be ready for the deck.  The way I normally build I would have the deck on already and would be trying to put in the details through small openings.  I like this method for the ability to do more with the interior details, on the other hand it feels like it’s slower because the deck is not on yet. 
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

Gerty, Michael, Popeye, and all that I thanked above.  All of you have my permission (as though I needed to give it) to use this any time you need vinyl.        What did he say?
 
Now we leave the cabin and move to the cockpit.  I didn’t get much done but it now has a deck and next will be the benches.  One thing at a time.
 
Bob
 

Steve,
  Good Luck Steve with the surgery. I hope rehap includes building models to get the arm back in shape there. Nice progress on the launch Sir.
 
mario

Steve,
  Good Luck Steve with the surgery. I hope rehap includes building models to get the arm back in shape there. Nice progress on the launch Sir.
 
mario

I agree with Mark. Also the Pfeil brand (Swiss) of gouge is excellent as is Soligen (Germany) - I have several of each brand. Another brand which I have not tried but is reported to be very good is Two Cherries (Germany).  A source for carving tools is  Chipping Away Dedicated to Wood Carvers