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18th Century Longboat by BobF - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48 - Tri-Club

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Hello all,


This is my first try at posting a project to MSW, so please be patient with me.  As part of the Longboat Tri-Club build, I've been lagging hopelessly far behind everyone else.  After studying the various models already posted, I feel that my offerings will be very redundant, and certainly not as good.  Anyway, I'm going to start with square one, and go from there.



Removing the burn marks on the back side of the sheets went quite well.



Next step was to duplicate the bearding line on the port side of the false keel, and make the necessary bevels for the rabbet.




Using a piece of glass and some clamps, I assembled the keel, stem and false keel.



I then squared up the stem and keel.  Using the glass plate and a sanding block it went quite well.  The sandpaper was attached to the block with two-sided tape, which is one of my most useful tools.



At this point, I constructed a building board.  The angle brackets had to be adjusted to ensure that they were square.  I then epoxied some basswood to one face of each bracket.  Slightly undersized screws were used to affix them to the building board.  This provided some adjustability.




Two steel blocks, a small square and a clamp were used to ensure that the bulkheads were plumb when glued to the false keel.  The small angle was adjusted up or down as each new bulkhead was put in place.  Although the blocks were a bit cumbersome, the results were acceptable.  I found that it was necessary to introduce some play into the bulkhead notches before they were glued in place.  The Elmer's glue caused the wood to expand, and on a number of occasions adjustments were almost impossible to make.  One bulkhead had to be re-glued twice before it had the correct orientation.



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Hi Bob and welcome, nice to have another Longboat here and believe me that without everybody's including your logs this place would not be what it is.

Keep up the great work but take it slow, she is a mighty delicate thing until you get some planking on her.



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Hi Bob. 


    You say this s your first post to MSW but I suspect this is not your first model.  I might even know you.  (I think I sat next to you at the last SMA conference in Newport Beach a few years ago.)


    I look forward to your progress and processes.

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Hello all,


After completing three bulkheads, I realized that I had forgotten to make provisions for mounting the model.  Before I get into that, I'd like to point out the strips that were laid across each pair of bulkheads as a new bulkhead was installed.  This made the assembly quite strong.



I decided to install the pedestals directly under hull frames.  The forward pedestal will be located at the forward end of the keel/stem scarf joint.  As a precaution, I "pegged" the scarf joint with a length of brass wire, which I ran up into the false keel.



Just forward of the brass peg, a hole was drilled through the keel into the false keel that will take a 1/32" brass rod.  This is a press fit, and the main support for the model.



The same procedure was performed at the stern with one exception.  Two pegs were added, and the 1/32" hole did not extend into the false keel.  I want to wait until the hull is planked, before the mounting hole is drilled any deeper.



When the model is mounted, the 1/32" rod will slide into the smaller brass tube shown in these photos.  That particular tube will be press-fitted into the plinth.  After being cut to the proper mounting height and polished, the larger tube will be placed over the smaller tube. Hopefully, it will give the assembly a finished appearance, and provide additional support for the model.





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Chuck -


I've also turned small ornate flanges on my lathe that can slide over the outer tube.  They can be soldered to the base of the tube, although a drop of CA is more than adequate.  If they are somewhat snug, nothing at all might be needed since they serve no structural purpose.  They just look nice.  I may add that touch to my own model.



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The rest of the bulkheads went on without any problem, and were beveled.  I decided to leave the transom off until the garboard strake and first two broadstrakes are attached to the hull.  Like Toni, I decided to use the tick-strip method for planking the model.  In the photo, the distance from the rabbet to the top of a bulkhead is being marked off.



I then located the corresponding bulkhead on the plans, and lined the strip up with the top of that bulkhead.  The sheerline was then marked on the strip.



The distance between the sheerline and the bottom of the strip was divided into eaqual segments by using what I call a "planking grid." I think it's also referred to as a "diminishing grid."  I opted to plank my hull with thirteen strakes per side.  I just felt that it would allow for a little more wood on each kit-supplied strip during the spiling process.  Hopefully, the reduction of each plank by 1/12th won't be that noticeable.



The tick marks were then transfered to the corresponding bulkheads. Planking is next.


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    I am watching your progress with great anticipation.  As indicated in my log, I have problems with planking between the garboard strake and wale....specifically at the bow.  I understand what you are doing with the tick strips and 'diminishing grid'.  I have fond, however, to allow for the proper lay of the plank in the bow while it is curving in, up and twisting, the plank has to have more of a curved taper rather than straight.  I sit riveted.

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I forgot to mention that a new tick strip has to be created for most of the bulkheads, especially as you approach the bow and stern.  The bulkhead just ahead of where the garboard strake ends will have one less tick mark (12), and the bulkhead forward of that will have 11 tick marks.  At least, that's the way I'm planning it.


I have to admit that I looked long and hard at the various longboats being worked on by this group as well as my Tri-Club group, before I laid my first plank.  The concept of edge-bending a plank was new to me.


I found that the most dificult aspect of forming the garboard strakes was deciding how much taper to give them at the bow.  I used a plank bending iron to configure the twist at the stern.  Prior to attaching them to the hull, I used them as templates to form the forward end of the first broadstrakes.



The instructions are quite explicit about starting the garboard strake just forward of the scarph joint, which is what I did.



I was surprised by the amount of curvature that was necessary to bring the next plank around the garboard strake, but it worked out OK.  The planks also required quite a bit of bevel at the bow, almost a sharp edge, in order to fit them properly into the rabbet.  I'm wondering if I didn't bevel the false keel enough.  Hopefully, it won't be visible on the finished model.




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The problem with the curvature at the bow for the first few strakes and at the stern for strakes 3 through 5 (for me at least) were part of the reason I did not use the provided wood strips.  I do not like to edge bend strakes unless they can be well secured to frames underneath (think plank on bulkhead).  Looking good, Bob.

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Toni -


I'm beginning to see what you mean.  I got my hands on a copy of W. E. May's book, "The Boats of Men of War."  There's a draught featuring a 23 foot longboat, circa 1758, that lists the principal scantlings, and indicates the shift of butts in the carvel strakes.  The hull is planked with what appears to be only 8 strakes!  No wonder they used multiple planks in each strake.  Thanks for the kind words.



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Chuck -


I used the wood strips supplied with the kit.  The broadstrake was edge bent to match, as closely as possible, the curve of the garboard strake at the bow.


I then trimmed the front end of the strip so that I could fit it up against the keel, and eventually into the rabbet.  After the garboard strake was mounted on the hull, I had to do some bending, twisting and trimming, so the broadstrake conformed to the frames and rabbet.  This is also where the extra width of the strip came in handy.  I was able to round out the inner edge a little more by sanding it, so I got a nice fit.


I'm currently using a plank bending iron and some clamps to edge bend the strips.  I had one crack on me, and another buckled, but I was able to save the strips.  They were long enough so that the damaged sections could be removed.  I have found that it takes as many as three or four sessions of wetting and bending to get the plank where it should be.  I hope I answered your question.  If not, please let me know.



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HI Bob,


Am enjoying your build log. It is always interesting to see and learn from the building techniques of others. I liked the way you used the thick glass to keep everything flat during the assembly and gluing of the stem and keel.  Would a sheet of aluminum in place of glass work as well?


Looking forward to more of your build.





Hopeful aka David


“there is wisdom in many voices”


Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted in kit build section of forum

Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build


Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

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Hi David,


I think any flat surface will work, as long as the parts don't get stuck to it.  I use that piece of glass a lot.


Thanks for the kind words.  I see that you are building a Sultana, which is a handsome model.  I'll be sure to check it out.




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