Chuck Seiler

Well, partially correct.  Spitfire DID exist.  She was damaged during the battle but managed to escape with the survivors, only to sink at Schyler's Island the next day.  SPITFIRE was discovered in 1997, but never raised.  The centerline COULD be a bit off. 

I would not consider that a major discrepancy.  How much is it off?  1/8".  Given that nobody will see it and it is close enough given all the McGivering they did with the real gunboats, I don't think it is an issue.  I know you are shooting for perfection, but...
 
On the other hand, if you make a prototype and a finished, one can be Philly and one can be Spitfire (still at the bottom).

Just the opposite.  It seems to be in pretty good shape (considering) but ;they' don't want to make the same mistakes Lorenzo Hagglund made in 1935.  He did a fair job with what he had available, but modern archeologist shudder.  The Lake Champlain Maritime Museum announced in June 2017 a five-phase plan to raise and preserve the Spitfire, anticipating a cost of about $44 million and a timeframe of 22 years.

Chuck,
Do you know why the Spitfire was never raised? Was it too badly decomposed, or what?

Much better now. I'm back on track again.

@Chuck Seiler You are having county fair flashbacks.  Made some good progress working on our ships there!

Well, partially correct.  Spitfire DID exist.  She was damaged during the battle but managed to escape with the survivors, only to sink at Schyler's Island the next day.  SPITFIRE was discovered in 1997, but never raised.  The centerline COULD be a bit off. 

I would not consider that a major discrepancy.  How much is it off?  1/8".  Given that nobody will see it and it is close enough given all the McGivering they did with the real gunboats, I don't think it is an issue.  I know you are shooting for perfection, but...
 
On the other hand, if you make a prototype and a finished, one can be Philly and one can be Spitfire (still at the bottom).

Keith,
    Tom is working at is 1: 24 IIRC.  That would be 3/64" across.

Ooops.  Sorry. 
 
For another project, I am planning on using 3/64" x 3/64" boxwood as a precursor for treenails.  I will round them down using my Dremel.  Perhaps doing that, but leaving a small bit of unrounded square part exposed (dyed or painted black) would do it.
 
By my calculation, that would result in a scale 1.125" wide nailhead.

That may be true in most circumstances, and in many cases they would use tree nails, but the Philadelphia is a cow of a different color.  They were not worried about iron corrosion or wood deterioration.  They knew the vessels would not be around long enough  for that to be a concern.  They WERE concern about getting the flotilla built and underway as soon as possible.   

Well, partially correct.  Spitfire DID exist.  She was damaged during the battle but managed to escape with the survivors, only to sink at Schyler's Island the next day.  SPITFIRE was discovered in 1997, but never raised.  The centerline COULD be a bit off. 

Great info.!  Thanks

Well, partially correct.  Spitfire DID exist.  She was damaged during the battle but managed to escape with the survivors, only to sink at Schyler's Island the next day.  SPITFIRE was discovered in 1997, but never raised.  The centerline COULD be a bit off. 

I would not consider that a major discrepancy.  How much is it off?  1/8".  Given that nobody will see it and it is close enough given all the McGivering they did with the real gunboats, I don't think it is an issue.  I know you are shooting for perfection, but...
 
On the other hand, if you make a prototype and a finished, one can be Philly and one can be Spitfire (still at the bottom).

Is that a deep fried, bacon wrapped, butter dipped, turkey leg sandwich I see in the background of post 95 pictures?

Also, does anyone have any thoughts on attaching these beasties and making them fast to the decks and bulwarks?
 

 
They are brass.  I have been trying to avoid CA lest it deteriorate over time.  PVA may not bite the brass but will definitely grab the wood.  I will definitely drill small pilot holes so there will be a slight interference (like a nail or tack).   
 
What do you guys do?  My searches were not forthcoming.  I definitely don't want them pulling out during rigging.
 
Thanks,
Steve

So a milestone of sorts - I feel all the wooden deck assemblies are complete and installed so I decided to start finishing the deck with Watco Danish Oil for protection.  The color change was huge with the oil - there is no turning back.  I will follow up with Watco Wipe On Poly in satin once the danish oil fully cures.  Or maybe not - the deck has a nice aged working boat look to it right now.  Decisions decisions!
 

 

 
It took quite a bit of research to figure out how the forward companionway was supposed to work - added door hardware on the port side.

 
Steady as she goes then.
 
Thanks for looking.
 
 

Here's a flight into 'fantasy'. I dedicate this cleaver idea to Chuck Seiler for giving me this novel inspiration and a 'great' alternative solution with acceptable historic purpose via a 'pinch' of believable and sound reasoning! Should the Smithsonian ever contact me about this, "I'll deny every word of it!"
 
In 1776, a small collection of 'gunboats' were ordered to be built. There was no time to waste! The first of these 'gunboats' was to be named 'Spitfire'. Seven other gunboats of the exact same class were to follow and be built upon Spitfires original design, however. There were problems encountered with the Spitfire's build. After all of the flooring timbers were effectively fastened to the bottom planking, it was discovered that the shape of the boats bottom hull would not properly fit within the designed parameters of the bottom strakes due to the irregular widths of the strakes themselves. The irregular widths of the strakes were not by actual design, but rather dictated by necessity via the true dimensions of the local lumber that was actually available at the time. While not of normal practice, and for the sake of immediate 'urgency', it was decided to continue with the build of Spitfire by simply offsetting the centerline of the boat from the true center of its center plank. Notes of this gross error were taken, and the remaining seven gunboats, including the Philidelphia were all more carefully laid out prior to hastily fastening the flooring timbers and cutting out the bottom shapes of their hulls. This boat was never located nor recovered for examination. You'll just have to believe Chuck and myself! 😋               
 
 

Howdy Chuck, I like the way you think! 😉
After the Tung Oil 'fully' cures on this bottom, and I'm able to sand the 'bottom' of the bottom and see the actual color/tone after sanding, I'll decide which way I want to go with this. There are currently quite a few options. My current desires are to display the model over a slightly angled, LED illuminated 'mirror' base that will reflect the actual bottom construction, something that would normally go unseen on a flat-bottomed model like this. The purpose for my wanting to do 'that' is simply to display accurate details, underneath, without the model ever needing to be physically touched, lifted up and eventually/possibly dropped, damaged, etc.          

I would not consider that a major discrepancy.  How much is it off?  1/8".  Given that nobody will see it and it is close enough given all the McGivering they did with the real gunboats, I don't think it is an issue.  I know you are shooting for perfection, but...
 
On the other hand, if you make a prototype and a finished, one can be Philly and one can be Spitfire (still at the bottom).

This is really looking great!!!!  Love the barrels.

Keith,
    Tom is working at is 1: 24 IIRC.  That would be 3/64" across.

Something just caught my eye on the Philidelphia. This post 'does' concern that boat!
Looking at the Smithsonian's online 3D scan of the Philidelphia's sides... those nails are 'not' square headed nails! They are flat 'Cut' nails! Take a look at the Smithsonian's 3D model. The nail heads are elongated/rectangular running in a fore/aft direction, with the grain of the wood. That is exactly the proper orientation of a correctly placed 'Cut' nail! "Hmm? I can't believe that I missed this up until now, but I did! This new observation may have just made my "Make it or Fake it" job a whole lot easier!  

Ooops.  Sorry. 
 
For another project, I am planning on using 3/64" x 3/64" boxwood as a precursor for treenails.  I will round them down using my Dremel.  Perhaps doing that, but leaving a small bit of unrounded square part exposed (dyed or painted black) would do it.
 
By my calculation, that would result in a scale 1.125" wide nailhead.