Chuck Seiler

You could be twisting too much.....all four strands together.   You probably need more initial twisting of individual strands.   I would suggest a three strand rope for that size as well.  No need to water poly rope....it wont do anything.  That is just for cotton or natural fibers.

Theoretical-  if you know the wattage that the machine draws and can measure RPM’ s you can determine torque.  Torque= Power (watts) / speed

I have seen that when evaluating drill presses, speed and torque are both issues to consider.  Determining speed is easy, as it is almost always given.  How do you determine torque?

I don't think there would be any practical way to determine torque for these mini tools.
 
It  becomes a matter of sharing personal experience as to quality of performance. 

My recollection is that Olah's maritime archeologist husband Khorum (sp?) mentioned the yard in his review of the kit. 
 
 

I have seen that when evaluating drill presses, speed and torque are both issues to consider.  Determining speed is easy, as it is almost always given.  How do you determine torque?

I have seen that when evaluating drill presses, speed and torque are both issues to consider.  Determining speed is easy, as it is almost always given.  How do you determine torque?

I have seen that when evaluating drill presses, speed and torque are both issues to consider.  Determining speed is easy, as it is almost always given.  How do you determine torque?

Richard,
    Well done!!!
    The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum replica has some sort of arrangement to hold the yard next to the mast.  I have not fully figured it out yet...I will worry about it as soon as I get close.

My recollection is that Olah's maritime archeologist husband Khorum (sp?) mentioned the yard in his review of the kit. 
 
 

Yes, it does have material that is printed for the sails. I forgot to mention that I wasn’t going to add the sails, though I may do so at some time.

Hi Chuck, 
 
Interesting video and yes, he does mention the yard. But says that he will leave it up to us to figure out how to work the sails!
 
Cheers

Richard,
    Well done!!!
    The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum replica has some sort of arrangement to hold the yard next to the mast.  I have not fully figured it out yet...I will worry about it as soon as I get close.

Thanks Chuck, that is helpful to see; similar to, but a different arrangement from the kit - an extra block compared with the model.

Richard,
    Well done!!!
    The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum replica has some sort of arrangement to hold the yard next to the mast.  I have not fully figured it out yet...I will worry about it as soon as I get close.

My recollection is that Olah's maritime archeologist husband Khorum (sp?) mentioned the yard in his review of the kit. 
 
 

So, onto the final stretch. Firstly the rudder. The rudder itself is two pre-cut pieces, plus the pre-cut tiller. All needed cleaning up but otherwise no issues. There were brass PE straps provided but no actual pintles or gudgeons. I broke one of the straps while bending it into shape, so decided that straps made from black paper would serve and would be indistinguishable from the supplied brass straps at any reasonable viewing distance. Styrene rod was used for the pintles. I also decided that the rudder would need to be pinned to the sternpost as I didn’t think the paper straps would be sufficiently strong to hold it. When the assembled rudder etc was held up to the hull, it looked terrible. There was a large gap between the rudder and the sternpost. So I got rid of the styrene rod and just used the paper straps and the pinned rudder - certainly not prototypical but the end result is fine.

And now for the rigging. One mast, one yard, two shrouds, one stay and some running rigging. Can't be too hard. The mast, yard and various blocks ready for installing.

The mast and the yard came ready tapered and needed to be rounded and cleaned of char. A file and sandpaper took care of this. The mast was set in place ready for the shrouds. The manual and plans are quite detailed with every line identified but there is a considerable amount of careful perusal required as some things are a little obscure. The supplied cord for the shrouds was wrapped around one of the triangular blocks and seized with thin thread. The excess cord was cut and instant disaster 😬. The cord promptly unravelled.🥴

Not happy ☹️. I tried to seal the cord where I planned to cut it, but no glue that I have would stick to the polyester (I assume that’s what it is). I had some cord left over from another build, slightly undersized (1.0mm) compared to the supplied cord (1.2mm), but close enough.  This cord was then used for the shrouds and the forestay.


Again, cord I already had was used for the running rigging. No particular issues with this. However once I had most of the rigging done, the yard sort of flopped around with apparently nothing to hold it in place. I found one of Olha's videos that I hadn’t seen before and it showed her lashing the yard to the mast. A careful check of the plans showed on one of them, three thin lines where the yard crossed the mast - the lashing.
 
The shallop is now finished. The extras in the boat, oars, water barrel etc have all been added.




 

A fairly enjoyable build, some headaches on the way, but nothing to kill the build.
 
Thanks to all who looked in, the likes and the comments.
 
Cheers

Unlikely.
I've been quiet over the Christmas period.  Quiet, but not a complete stand still.


I acquired some better clamps, these would have made a huge difference at earlier stages in this build.

The planking is (more or less) complete:




More or less complete, but it is in need of some filler





It is a little early yet, but I'm thinking about the rigging the spirit on this kit.
Somehow, I feel it extends too far in front of the mast.



I think that both the Chesapeake Bay shallop and the Elizabeth Tilley (? Plymouth/Mayflower shallop) have/had similar spirits, but wouldn't it interfere with the foresail/stay sail?
 

Welcome aboard and Happy New Year. 
 
~formerly from Warminster, PA 

Welcome aboard and Happy New Year. 
 
~formerly from Warminster, PA 

Hey there, mateys. I had done a pair of very basic kits before, a simple sailboat and a pirate ship, neither of much complexity. Around when the pandemic shut things down I finally resolved to start the Lightning Sailboat (1:12) kit from Dumas. That had been completed a few weeks ago (photos for the gallery in process); whereupon I learned my first mate, CFO and bestie had ordered the Ulises OcCre, 1:30, for my recent birthday, it came a month after. In the meantime, I found this resource (NRG/MSW) and hope to keep up a proper log as I begin the new project. 

There are some nuances to terminology perhaps some kind folk can enlighten me with:  what is bashing?  And is there a beginner / intermediate novice area? Oh and I had created my sign-in before thinking about it being kind of long and a bit obtrusive, so, allow some slack on that, ok?

Before having family, and most of my career, I had completed many auto, aircraft, armor and other plastic kits, all for good. Working in wood is a special endeavor, as I found the Lightning kit at a local hobby shop’s going out of business sale - last century. I guess the CFO likes my modeling because it keeps me busy and chill.  Yes, yes the wood had dried out a lot, and many parts were missing or had decayed. So much more creativity required! 
Peace
ChiefScienceOfficerDrew
Drew Hmiel, Glenside, PA

Hi - If you had the arbours wrong the blade would not run true and give you all sorts of problems - you would know it wasn't right.
 
So assuming they are ok if your wood is tapering during a cut it could be one of many reasons.
 
1.  The edge of the wood that is on the fence is not straight and true.  This will need correcting.
2.  You are not keeping the wood tight up against the fence as you cut?
3.  The blade is too thin and is deflecting - what size blade and with how many teeth are you using?
 
Cheers Mark

I'll go to the hardware shop and buy some fiber washers to mimic the mast seals.

Here is a bit of trivia for you:
 
In 1980 I started working for a company that had the contract for automating plywood lathes from the company that owned the patent. We supplied the computers and software to peel veneer from logs. By the mid '80s nearly all of the plywood lathes in North America were operated by a small (6" x 6" x 6.5") multiprocessor computer I designed. If you used plywood in North America from 1985 through to about 2000 the veneer was probably produced by that small computer.
 
It was a fun project!
 
https://ao-cs.com/Projects/little computer project.html

Totally agree with Phil that it is great.  I did a little digging and plywood is an interesting thing.  Aircraft ply has the most stringent criteria in manufacturing for plywoods.  A description from Wicks Aircraft --->  it is made with thermosetting, synthetic resin type glues.  Geniune aircraft plywood meets MIL-P-6070B which requires that the plywood be tested for general condition of boards, deviations of thickness, moisture content, tensile strength of wood, gluing strength, bending test, torsion test, immersion test and boiling test.  (The boiling test is three hours!)    No voids (filled or otherwise) are permitted as is allowed in cabinet grade that is found in the big hardware/lumber stores.    https://www.wicksaircraft.com/c/aircraft-plywood/    They have larger sheets and the prices looks competitive, especially for the thinnest stock.
Allan