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FriedClams

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  1. Very nice progress FF. Using styrene sheet as plank caulking is a clever technique. I like the louver jig also. Gary
  2. Very nice progress G.L. The metal can and paint burner is a great idea. Gary
  3. Just catching up on your diorama OC. and it's looking terrific! This is a very interesting building as I have not seen an MDF laser cut kit before. It has some nice detailing to it and I very much like your enhancements so far. I find one of the biggest challenges in modeling is to make one material look like something it's not. So your modifications to the "brick" (extra carving, mortar and painting techniques) really transformed the MDF into what convincingly looks like a real baked clay product. Excellent. I agree with your decision to glaze the windows - catching a glint of light off of them can really add to the illusion. Interior walls and detailing is ambitious and sounds very cool. Looking forward to watching your future work on the structures and the diorama in general. Gary
  4. Mark, Egilman. Keith, Ken and Popeye - thank you so much for your comments of information and support. I really do appreciate it. And thanks to all for looking in and for the "likes". Pit Frame The pit frame begins with a CAD drawing. This drawing describes the three “steel” frame pieces and the lengths needed for each. The drawing is used as a cutting template for the styrene. The image below shows an extra “I” beam member which I decided not to use as it really crowded the pit. The four concrete footings are made from basswood painted with acrylic. The top view drawing is used as a positioning template. A couple of strips of double sided cellophane tape are placed on the template to keep the four long beams positioned properly as everything is cemented together. Styrene sheet that scales to around .75” is used for the steel plate which covers the parallel beams. After cleaning everything with isopropyl, the “steel” was brush painted with flat-black enamel and selected areas were lightly textured with a cosmetic sponge. Once the enamel dried, I applied a light mahogany colored acrylic wash and allowed it to dry. Then a heavier gray wash on top of that, which I mostly wiped off with my finger leaving the color predominantly in the recesses. Then just a touch of rusty pigment powder and finally some edge highlighting with graphite. Then glued in place. The frame is made entirely of basswood and the drawing is used as a construction template. The wood was stained with an India ink/alcohol solution beforehand. The tiny dots pretending to be bolt heads are just pin holes made with a pin dipped in ink. The barrels are white metal pieces that needed some filing and cleaning up. The catch tray is folded paper from the sticky end of a Post-It note. Once it was formed, a drop of very thin CA was applied which saturated and hardened the thing. Black oil paint was applied in and out. The barrels are base painted with enamels followed by pigments. Thanks for taking a look. Gary
  5. Thanks to all for stopping by and for the "likes". Seems a bit scary to me also Mark. Check this photo out. This seems like a false sense of security to me. The rear wheel doesn't even appear to be chocked to keep it from rolling backwards (or forwards.) I wouldn't want to be under that thing if the chainfall let go and the weight shifted. I wonder if this little house of cards arrangement has ever been tested? It works pretty well. The most difficult part is keeping the drill straight and true when going through the rails. Thanks for the comment O.C. I believe you're right Keith. That's a great understanding of the times and one that I never stopped to consider. All the years I worked in manufacturing the company always supplied uniforms and laundry service. So yes, what would you do with oil soaked clothes on a modest salary? Leave them hung over the fence at night? Yes those jacks would add some nice atmosphere and I particularly like the high lift bumper jack. I don't know of anyone who casts or molds anything like them at this scale, so I'm going to try and scratch some. Emphasis on try as the high lift would be right at 1/2" tall. Thanks for the suggestion and photos Egilman. Everyone would run for cover when OSHA would step out onto our manufacturing floor. But when you see the dangerous work places of the "good old days", OSHA starts looking pretty good. Thanks for the comment and nice words Ken. Hello Allen, thanks for looking in. I agree, especially the oil can as it would be easily identifiable - but crazy small. I may just give it a try. Some Pit Work Everyday life choirs and activities has kept me from the workbench and little has gotten done. So this update will be a short one. I added back some electrical piping along the back wall that was pulled off to accommodate the pit installation. Instead of running the conduit to the right as it was originally, it now runs to the left and up the corner and covers a nasty little gap where the two walls meet. I then replaced some of the “angle iron” around the perimeter of the pit because it was out of square. Looking at the photo below I can see the angle needs some attention as it doesn't look like iron (too silvery.) Steps are added leading down into the pit. They are 2' wide with a 8” rise and 10” run (like you really wanted to know that) and are made of stacked basswood pieces. The hand rail is .022” brass which scales to just under 2” diameter. The pit and steps were dirtied up with some blackish pigment powders and a wash of India ink mixed with water. The wash brought forward the texture of the pit walls (which I now realize I failed to mention in the last post.) The texture is straight white PVA dabbed on with a cosmetic sponge. At first the glue keeps leveling itself out, but as it dries it starts to hold peaks. I also added some oil stains to the lower center pit and a step down to it. Arbor Press A break from working on the pit. In the last post I showed a photo of four men in greasy coveralls. Below is a crop of that photo and just behind the gentleman in the center is a mechanical arbor press. It appears to be a 20 ton Weaver Hi-Speed Press or one very similar. The Weaver 28 and 60 ton models have an extra leverage arm high up that the press shown above does not. These presses had three levels of power vs speed. The hand wheel could be turned for gentle precise work with little power. The upper lever was a rack/pinion sort of affair that offered more speed and considerable power. If that wasn't enough you could choose the nuclear option by using the lever on the left which provides the greatest force. The photo below is a 20 ton press so it doesn't have the upper lever, but it's a good look at its simplicity and how it works. Note that the arm (with the Weaver branding) has a choice of pivot points at its left end – three of them, where you can select how much leverage is required. There are three holes in the pivot plate and the arm is currently occupying the center hole so the the other two holes are not visible. I made one of these Weaver presses for the dio, but much of the mechanical detail is not there - just too small. Anyway, I began with a drawing based on photo scaling. I gathered up some stuff. The wheel is an injection molded HO scale boxcar brake wheel. I pulled the styrene rod and tubing over heat to get the right diameters needed. The brown sprue is nut/bolt heads. Cut, glue and drill. Enamel paint and powders. The left side power mechanism is just two pieces of bent wire inserted into a styrene bit. The angle iron that bolts to the floor is out of scale for sure but. . . Now back to the pit. Thanks for looking. Gary
  6. Splendid work Druxey - so delicate and well crafted. I am curious - early on in the build you expressed regrets about selecting castello for the project instead of holly. Since you found a way to work with the castello, would you choose it again or opt for a different species? Looking forward to the final glamour shots. Gary
  7. This is some very nice sub-atomic modeling you're doing here CDW. I had no idea injection molded aftermarket details were available at such a small scale. And they look quite crisp too. I've pulled up a chair to follow your progress. Gary
  8. A very nice start on your model Popeye. I'll be following along. Gary
  9. Hello Tim. Thank you for thinking of my Stonington boat model in regards to showing it at the Northeast Conference this coming October. I registered on-line several weeks ago and I will be bringing this Stonington dragger model with me. I'm looking forward to the event and seeing all the great models displayed by our fellow modelers. Should be fun and educational. And I thank you for the high appraisal of the model - I only hope it doesn't disappoint in person. See you there. Gary
  10. Just found this build G.L. and I have read it from the beginning. Like your previous logs, it is packed with simple and innovative techniques. The bow sander makes so much sense and I'm surprised I haven't seen that idea used before, but I will be trying it. I also like your frame lamination method - nifty. And thanks for showing us the details of Mr. Orsel's strake cutting sled which is a perfect tool for hulls of this shape. Excellent work G.L. and I will be watching for future updates. Gary
  11. Spectacular figure painting yet again, O.C. You can almost hear that flag snapping and popping in the wind. Gary
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