pollex

Thank you Rich, when trying this lathe, you understand what rigidity means.
 
Here is the first scratchbuilt I did from the drawdings of Harold Hahn.
 
While building it, the NMM said they did not have any plans from a back view. Few years later I saw one drawing in a magazine.

Fiberglass
 
With frames set in and the hull's shape stable, it was time to glass the outside.
 
I started with the transom

 
Then the portside
 
 
Once that had set-up, it was on to the starboard side

 
There, that wasn't so bad

 
Excess resin went into the bilges and on the lower frames.
 
 
After the glass set-up and was sanded, there were some blisters where the glass didn't lay and bond to the hull, these came off while sanding and were filled with auto-body putty.  More sanding and another coat of resin brushed on, then sanding again.  Some clean up and degreasing and it's...
 
Wale Ho!
 
On this model the wale isn't the structural member it is on a real ship, but I did want it done in an anchor-stock pattern as it would be visible on close inspection.
I started by cutting a block of white pine, as used for the rest of the planking, to the offset anchor-stock shape, then slicing off 1/8" thick planks.
 
 
I started on the starboard side by marking the positions of each plank on the hull from the bow aft, and actually started gluing them on amidships.  I used CA to attach them to the hull, and Titebond III to glue them to each other.
 
 
Clamping them to the hull took some thinking at places, as did clamping them to each other without lifting them off the hull.
 
 
At the bow the pieces needed to be precurved, so the SBJ (Sophisticated Bending Jig) was employed.  The pieces were wet, clamped in the jig, and left overnight.
 
 
It took a little over a week, but the starboard wale was done.  Now to the port side!

 
I took a slightly different approach this time.  Clamping the pieces to the hull was quite tedious, so I used the nails I used to hold the planking with during construction to hold the pieces onto the hull here.  This made things go much quicker and smoother.
Before starting though, I cut out a gunport just for fun.  I was afraid the hull would flex with the ports cut out, but I need them cut before I frame up the hull thickness behind them, because that framing sets into the gunport opening a bit.  Actually, the planking is set back creating a rabbet for the lid to close against.
 
 

 
My friend Mark was building a crabbing skiff at my place, and while he had the epoxy out, I stole a bit to give the wales a couple of coats
 
 
I then started carefully cutting out each gunport opening.  Once all the gun ports are cut out along the gun deck, the internal framing will go in around each one, making the hull the right thickness as seen through the gunports.  The focs'le and quarterdeck ports will be cut after they're framed and the external moldings have been installed.
 

more

With special modelling clay I make the small figures on the stern
 

 

 
This is the last photo for now. Overview over the deck with the hole for the main mast already drilled.
 
In the near future I will post some more photo's - but I think it will take another 6 months before she is ready for sailing out.

Thank you Mark, you understand exactly the idea. In a way the drawing is only a guide, the builder to succeed only needs flowing lines. I do not think that certain lines can be drawn on the first try. In this case horizontal curves are surely established before the vertical ones. Dry fit  with the brass nails is a very forgiving way, but even with this, I do not succeed all the parts in  the first try, sometimes it easily can go up to 4 or 5 try. Also in this case the thickness change, by example on the first picture, the thickness of the molding changes and in the second picture there are 4 layers to apply, you just have to guess which one you apply first. Finally to add some icing on the cake, there is  a lot of discrepancies in the drawings
Gaetan

Hello Piet; I'm enjoying your log of the VOC "Surabaya";
however, I have a suggestion/question.  I see you have
positioned "steps" just aft the 3rd gunport in the waist.  A
British naval or merchantship would have had them aft the
NEXT set of gunports. When the officers (only) stepped on the
gangway, they would then have been right athwarthships the
main mast. This would then allow you to place a pair of vertical 
"skids" in place 3 feet+ (1 metre) apart, for hauling the heavy
water casks aboard from the boats alongside. Not being so
familiar with Dutch marine traditions, would this suit your model?
Kind regards,  pollex

I see on the Delftship sight that you can design ship hulls, but I see nothing about using the program to develop frames, keels or other parts as 2D drawings.  Is it possible with delftship or should I look for a different program?
 
Bob