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About JerryTodd

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    Scale Sailor
  • Birthday 09/20/1960

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    Severna Park Maryland USA

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  1. Pride went to the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum back in May and before leaving, she got to free-sail in the pool for a bit. I just wanted to take some pictures of her sitting in the water, but she took off across the pool.
  2. As someone that's worked on these boats, you've done a beautiful job capturing one; albeit, a little cleaner than I remember
  3. Pride got out of the house and put on display at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum on Saturday, and at Baltimore's National Maritime Day Port Expo on Sunday. Both events were slow, so I decided to get some pics of the model in the pool, when she started sailing along...
  4. I rented a UHaul trailer to transport the model to the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum on Saturday and Baltimore's Maritime Day Port Expo on Sunday. Visitor turn out wasn't very good at either event despite the great weather. There wasn't good access to the Miles River for a model like Constellation, but I gave it a go none-the-less... The wind was all over the place because of the docked boats, and it was tight between the piers, but she sailed. At Baltimore it was very windy, so the models just stayed on the tables.
  5. She had the 10 inch pivots when she left Boston in 1859 to post to the Africa Station, but the captain decided she felt top heavy, so they took the guns off and took on more ballast. No mention of taking off the circles. She returned from Africa and got the 20 and 30 pound Parrots in place of the shell guns. I doubt the circles were touched. She went to the Med in 62 and the pivot guns are mentioned during that trip, When she returned in 1864, she became a receiving ship in Norfolk and the pivots may have been removed then or her next refit in 1871. The only spardeck drawing in the National Archives is from the 1886 refit, and there's no trace of gun circles or any guns on it at all.
  6. Working in fits and starts, as usual, I installed one of 6 pinrails on the bulwark. This was made from 1/8" aircraft plywood. I'll have to come back to that. Then I put on the "iron" deck rings for the pivot guns. They're made from 1/32nd styrene and CAed to the deck. The pattern of these rings on Constellation is debatable. The museum folks say it was just a single circle for each gun, but in tracking them down, I've found no data yet for Constelation and most other ships have something more than a single circle, especially larger vessels. Since these tracks are often referred to as "gun circles," I think the museum folks interpreted that as a single circle. I opted to model something a bit more complex along the lines of the diagram in the Navy's 1852 manual: Preparation of Vessels of War for Battle. Bow circles... Stern circles...
  7. I have a blocked fairlead that some epoxy got into. I put some acetone in it, but I haven't been able to clear it yet. Mean while I set the sails, and brushed and vacuumed the winter shop dust off.
  8. A nice 60° today, and after working of other people's stuff, I got some time on Constellation... Installed the trucks on each mast, made from slices of a mahogany dowel. Also finished installing the hooks on the mizzen t'gallant and royal as described back in #373
  9. There's a mountain of "little" things that need to get done, such as; gunport eyebrows, boarding steps, galley stack, bow carvings, cat head cats, and the ship's wheel, just to mention a few. Well, the ship's wheel can almost come of the list... I've been trying to turn spokes for the wheel, with no success. There's 20 of them needed and making one is maddening enough, much less replicating it 19 more times. Then I have Macedonian's wheels, and hopefully another single for Gazela Primeiro - that's a LOT of spokes! So I cheated, at least if feels like I have, but hey, maybe down the road I'll figure this out, but until then, this works. I asked Model Monkey via Shapeways if he'd scale one of his ship's wheels to 1:36 scale, just the wheel. He did, and I bought 4 of them; 2 for Constellation and two for Macedonian. A few days later I had them in my fat fingers... They need a helm, or wheel-stand, which I felt I could make without ordering then in 3D - which is still quite expensive. These are mahogany. The curved braces are laminated 1/32" thick strips from a kit, the upright from some scrap left from a musical instrument a friend built. The drum is a bit of mahogany dowell, also left from a kit, with a bit of brass rod as an axle. A bit of paint and some clear-coat and it's just about done. I was going to make it operate when the rudder was moved, but I'm afraid it's too fragile to be spun back and force all the time, the servo moves a bit faster than "scale speed," so I just wrapped some line around the drum and fed it through the deck. The helm is held to the deck with some round-headed wood screws. I lost a spoke handle while painting, but I have some brass belaying pins that are a good match and will replace it with one of those. That's pretty much what cancelled making it operate.
  10. I don't see that they have CV joints specifically, but when I look for joints I usually look first at Dumas.
  11. I'm looking at making the stuns'l boom hardware on the yards. The end cap and post, referred to by Luce as a Pacific-Iron, isn't to difficult, but the iron that sockets onto it is another matter. Sometime back I saved an image I found where someone made them, but I don't recall who, what model, scale, etc, but they are exactly what I need to make, though I have no idea how. I could make a master and cast it in resin (I need 12 of them), but I don't think that would have the strength, so it's going to be a sheet brass and rod affair. (3d printing is so far above my income bracket as to not even be considered). I have an idea of shaping a long narrow strip of brass or copper sheet and soldering it at the "post" between the socket and the hoop. I could solder a bit of rod as the roller or even use some tube and run a pin through it. looking at the bottom of the fitting
  12. Regarding my obsession with that thing the main tops'l brace ties to, I found the following in the 1891 edition of Luce's Seamanship. Main-topsail Braces. Standing part hooks to an iron traveler, which moves up and down the mizzen topmast to shift the strain lower down as it becomes greater (if the mizzen-topsail is reefed or taken in), thence to the yard and down to hanging blocks on the mizzen-mast, about half way between the top and the deck. Earlier edition's of Luce's I have PDF's of (1863, 1868, 1877) have the braces hitched to the mizzen topmast head and seized to the stay-collar, or they might lead through thimbles at the mizzen topmast head and down to the chains, but says many ships now do the above. At any rate, there's some documentation verifying what I was seeing in the photos. Personally, I like the thimble to the chains set-up myself, as it would give me a really nice way to incorporate a way to make adjustments, but that's not what the ship had, so... Until I get a better notion of what was this part actually looked like, I made a jib-hank looking thing for the time being. I also put eye's into the mizzen mast for mounting the "span-blocks" here shown with brass blocks temporarily installed. Here's a link to an exciting minute-and-a-half of video showing the tops'ls braced by two separate winches - except the mizzen which wasn't rigged yet. Please excuse the main canting and such, it's actually not fully hoisted there.

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