Snowmans
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Everything posted by Snowmans
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Russ, the wood will be a lot darker once I put a finish on it. The rimu and kauri will have more contrast against each other. Ron, yes the fence is a length of 25 x 25 mm angle I had in the shed. I think it is a colour sample from work. -
Painting Templates
Snowmans replied to dafi's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
This is a good idea. I have used templates for airbrushing before but havn't thought about stick on for detail and lettering. Would be easy for those repetitive markings. -
All fixed in place, and treenailed. The next lot of timber is cut and sanded so I can continue working in the evenings. Recycled Rimu wall panelling and Kauri offcuts. Home built bence saw run by dremel tool with a 50mm blade.
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This is a great small project. I wil be putting this on the to do list.
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All the frames in for a dry fit before glueing.
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Starting the fitting of the frames. Dryfitted all of these first before any glue was applied.
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Here are the photos of my 200mm sander. Built this about 2 years ago. The motor was from work and going to be thrown away, so this was rescued. It came with the switch already in place. A base was built from scrap timber, and a backing plate from mdf. The table was from a spare melamine shelf with a window bracket for the angle adjustment. I can fit up to a 230mm sanding disc but only use 200mm as that is what I have. The photos show different stages of the sander, with the yellow backing plate the final color. There is also a 90 and 45 degree angle scribed into the table that cannot be seen in the photos. I am slowly working on a dust collector for this as it goes everywhere at the moment.
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I made up a small sanding disc for my dremel tool. I found 25mm feet for furniture with the nail moulded into the plastic. Sanded the face to a flat and cut stick on sandpaper to fit. Works well in hard to reach places. Also shows the 2mm chisel I made from a spraygun needle.
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This log is making me look like I can build at speed. Normally I only get a couple of hours a week in the shed after the kids are in bed. Slight gap. this is the one I remade. Glueing the keel. Slot cut with the corner of a razor blade. I saw this on someone elses build log and thought I should try it.
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The axle is about 10mm and had the two bearings. I cut 6 (I think) pieces of an old fence paling into a circle. The first disc at each end has a small slot across the centre hole, which lines up with a hole through the axle. when the first and second discs were glued together a small nail was put in the hole. I used epoxy glue so once this died there is no way the discs could turn on the axle. Each disc was glued with the grain at 90 degrees to the last for strength. Once everything was fixed and sanded a coat of thinned epoxy was wiped over an left to soak in.
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Still sorting out some of the photos. The build is still going slowly. Trying to find time to login and put them up, but here are some more:
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Yes, Davis is correct. The timber is fed in against the rotation of the sandpaper. I make sure the pieces are longer than 200mm so I have a hand hold at each end. Or finger hold for the smaller sizes! Also I stand to the side so when a length get away it goes across the shed rather than into me.
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Yeah, I have some the pictures I have taken but none the text. I know when I started the build I spent several hours going through all the past build logs and getting information.This was a great help. I figure others will do the same. Frames cut out and seperated into each frame. I used two colors to tell the front and rear parts for each frame. Sanding the outside radius. This sander I built with a motor from work that was going to be thrown away. Sanding the inside radius. I have since upgraded the drill press so would be a lot easier no do now. The old one had a wobble in the chuck.
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Here are some pictures of the thickness sander I built last year for my Triton cross section build. It is powered by a drill and takes a half sheet of standard size sandpaper. The metal shaft is fitted through two bearings recessed into the sides, then several wooden discs fixed to the shaft. There is a couple if holes drilled in the shaft and a small nail through each fixed to a couple of the wooden discs so they wouldnt spin. I then glued a sheet of sandpaper to a flat board and set this on the bed, turned on the drill and raised the bed to sand the surface flat to the table. The hole on top was put in later an is is to fit the vacuum hose and makes this unit virtually dust free. The drill is fixed in place but can be removed by a single screw at the handle end. I have a couple of drills so havent had to remove this yet. Being variable speed I can adjust for the fine sanding or for the first thicknessing. Can open up to about 60mm deep and is 120mm wide. I have sanded down to 1mm succesfully and the thickness is set by the bolt at the rear of the table. Sandpaper is fixed a wooden shaft with a slot to fit the flat bar to hold the sheet in place. The only parts I paid for were the split pins that hold the shaft in place, the rest I had lying around the shed. It has now had a tidy up and a bit of paint on the top.
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I am part way through the Cross Section build, and will put up all the pictures I had. The text will have to be reduced to a few notes. This is my first attempt at scratch building, and all the timber used is cut down from what I have in the shed. Mostly recycled native timber beams, or logs that have been drying for several years. I have been working on this now for about 18 months. Sanded to thickness. Home built thickness sander. Ready to start cutting.
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