Snowmans
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Here is the jig I used for drilling the holes for the treenails. I was going to measure and mark all the holes with a pencil but figured they would be all the same distance from a square edge this would be quiker. Small length of scrap wood with a square edge clamp to fix the length. Small vee in the end to guide the drill bit, and the thickness acted as a depth stop for the drill bit. -
Good idea Rummy, I picked up a waterbased stain yesterday and the have the toothpicks soaking overnight. I will take them out of the stain this morning and let them dry before doing another test. I alsofound some real wooden toothpicks instead of bamboo which shoild work better.
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This is a great unit. Well thought out and built. Can you show how you attach the sandpaper on the drums you built yoursef? I have looked at making my own but have not found a decent method of fixing the sandpaper without using glue.
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Ron - I used a 0.6mm drill bit in the dremel for the treenails. I made a slight vee in the end of a length of timber to guide the drill bit, and used a small clamp as a depth stop. the clamp was butted up to the end frame which gave the same distance to each frame. measured by eye for each plank. I have a few photos of this which I will put up when I get a chance. Had the same trouble with the first toothpicks, have just bought a packet of wooden ones I will try this weekend. The bamboo ones didnt let the stain soak through.
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Thanks for the comments. The golden color is only an oil finish on kauri. I have used rimu and kauri which will stand out more once the finish is on. Still trying different stains for the treenails. Might be ongoing tests for a few days/weeks yet. Bending beams at the same time so these are ready once I finish the treenails and oil up to the underside of the lower deck.
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Looks like you have the fit nice and tight. I am nearly up to this stage and will be doing a bit of practice before the final cuts with the chisel. Nice work.
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Here are some better photos of the build so far. All the holes drilled for treenails and the first of the stain samples.
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Have cut the stain colors to three, and will make up another test piece to check the final color. Ron - the notes were the stain colors used for each treenail so I could remember which color was where. These were all the colors I had in the shed that hadnt dried up in the tin. I will take the camera into the shed today that will be better than the camera on the phone. I had no shed time yesterday as it was the wifes birthday.
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I ended up going out of town for work this week so no evenings in the shed. Have got some of the treenails drilled but not all of them are finished yet. Made up a couple of samples of treenails with different stains to see how they will end up looking. Not entirely happy with the result so will experement a bit more. I will need some more toothpicks so will get those and see how they react to the stain. I used a pigment stain and it seemed to dry around the outside of the toothpick, leaving the centre clear. I think I will buy an oil stain to see if this soaks all the way through. Again the photos are taken late at night in a dimly lit shed so it is hard to see the different colors. Will try to get a better shot on the weekend. Different color stains - 4 of each color in a spare piece of decking. And with a single coat of oil to see the finished result.
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Have photos of the jig used to bend the beams. Glued the plan to a mdf board and clamp back to a couple of nails to get the curve right. Soaked the plank then clamped to the board to dry overnight. I have used rimu which looks really dark when wet, but dries a lot lighter. Two beams are now ready with one drying and one to go.
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I like the the idea of using masking tape on the wood first. Will be much easier than getting glue of the face of the timber after the frames are cut. Another tip I will use myself sometime.
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Woohoo, I will bemaking my first attempt at treenailing today and am looking forward to drilling all the holes. This will be done before the lower deck beams get put in place. (the beams are in the process of being bent to shape) I have decided to use toothpicks as I dont have a drawplate yet and this will be easier than trying to cut the timber the right size. I tried making my own but after breaking four drill bits I gave up. These will be the only wood I wont be cutting myself on this build and I am thinking about staining these to a darker color. I will try a few in some scrap first with a couple of shades of stain to see how they look once finished, and post photos.
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I cut all my timber, some from logs and some from recycled timber. I have a stack of logs from fruit trees including apple, plum and pear that are nearly dried and ready to mill. Some of the logs in the shed are native timbers I have aquired and are aprox 700mm across and 500mm long. They have been there for about 5 years so far, and will need a few more before they are ready to use. I do a bit of woodturning and these larger pieces will go on the lathe once dry, the off cuts get cut down for the ship building. The time left drying is normally about 1 year per inch of thickness, but this can vary on the density of the species. Sealing the end grain should be done to prevent splitting and checking as mentiond above. I normally use a bit of acrylic paint and this works well, have tried wax but always have paint on hand. The recycled timber came from house renovations, native timber beams that are aprox 50 years old so nice and dry.
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Thanks, thay are seperated into the sizes so once I get to sand them I can grab each size and run through the machine. Takes about 20 minutes do sand all four sides for all the pieces in the photo. Longest part is setting the height for each size.
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I have seen the foot control from a sewing machine converted to this use, it had the speed control included. I think I have a link for this somewhere so I will have a look and post it if I find it.
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Nearly up to date with the older photos. Made a zero clearance insert for the bandsaw and cut the timber for the lower deck and gun deck. All put through thethickness sander and finished to the correct size. Now I am able to do the next few stages in the shed during the evenings. The wood is a piece of rimu that had been used a paking for a larger order of timber. I saved a few off these while I worked at a building supplies company. Ripped down with the bench saw. Resawn with the bandsaw. Finished with the sander after this pic was taken.
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Looks good so far. I like the idea for a revolving table.
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Great job. I think the dark timber frames will look good. Are you planning on leaving some of the planking off to show this?
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I have also done this, it works well for the smaller pieces. I mounted the drill and used a small file for detail work.
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This is a great idea. I am planning a small sander. The 200mm is a bit big for some work so this might be the way to go.
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Here is a better photo of the build so far.
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Couple more photos, these are taken with the camera on the phone late at night so the quality is somewhat lacking.
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I have been watching this build for a while, great job. I will be using the same idea for bending the plank on my build.
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That is a well built ccross section. I like the variety of timbers used.
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Using a drill press for other operations.
Snowmans replied to Modeler12's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have used my drill press for a lot of the above ideas, mainly have a drum sander for the internal curves. I made a table that has a zero tolerance for the drum so I can get in nice and close with those small parts. There is a vacuum in progress since the photo, fits on under the table and removes most of the dust. wil have to get a pic of that once finished. I have also tuned a couple of canon barrels with another jig I made to steady the chisel and file. This was just slapped together so wasnt too steady but as I only needed two I made do. I would improve the design if I made any more. I will see if I still have this jig and post a pic.
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