Martin W

Post Sixty-six
 
Looking at the Rudder.
This is a nicely formed piece with pre-drilled holes for the straps. It is faced by patterns that display the sections that would normally make up a rudder.
The blurb at section 251 mentions as an option slightly tapering the rudder before adding the facings. (see plan sheet 14)

2265
The rudder should be tapered toward the aft and down the vertical. The inner edges should also be chamfered to assist with movement of the rudder.
I used the plan taper as a template to guide the sanding.
Bearing in mind there are two extra mm added to the width of the rudder by the addition of the facing patterns, I think there is somewhat more tapering required than indicated.
I also slightly tapered the inner sides of the facing patterns.
The result should be that the rudder matches the taper of the stern post.

2277(2)
With the rudder assembled I had a decision to make; either to go with the faux gudgeon/pintle set-up of the kit or use Chuck’s Syren gudgeon and pintle mini kits which allow the rudder to turn and is more authentic.

2271(2)
The kit version using combined pintle/gudgeon etched profiles do provide a quick and simple answer to rudder fitting but lack authenticity.
 
The Gudgeons are properly solid cast pieces with a hole drilled for the pintles.

5434
The Syren method reflects this using shaped Boxwood blanks. They are designed for 1:48 scale but can be reduced in size to suit.
With the rudder temporarily taped in place the top line of the Gudgeons are marked on the Sternpost.

5436
They are glued to the sternpost and a length of brass tubing is fed thro’ all of the holes in the gudgeons to check that the set up is central to the sternpost.
They are then carefully sanded and filed to shape and scale.

5430
Testing the fit of the rudder to the Gudgeons.
The pintle straps need to sit at a level  with the top of the Gudgeons.
 
The Pintles are easier to represent by simply inserting a pin in the recess in the rudder.

2302(2)
I say easier but it is quite tricky drilling holes in the upper faces of the pintle recesses keeping the pin sufficiently square to fit in the corresponding Gudgeon.

2297(2)
I don’t fit the pins in sequence; I start with the lower one and check, then one of the higher ones, and check, and proceed from there fitting each pin and fettlin’ it to fit.

2309
They should slide into the gudgeons without much pressure, otherwise the gudgeons may become detached from the sternpost.
There should be close fit between rudder and sternpost, as close as possible, whilst allowing movement.

2313
One advantage of this system is that that the rudder can be unshipped.

2319

2317(2)
Hanging a rudder is one of the rites of passage in ship modelling and I would suggest that doing it in the traditional manner should be tried at least once.
 
In Part Two I will complete the rudder.
 
B.E.
19/01/22

Cheers Guys,
 
@  Bug, -  I tend to just use hand held on auto macro settings sometimes with flash or supplementary lighting. As long as they sufficiently impart what I’m trying to get over it’s good enough for me for general w-i-p photos.
 
@ David, - thanks for looking in,  and for the link, interesting stuff. In the case of the Sphinx build, painting of the topsides and other areas will take place over several weeks with additional touch -ins subsequently. For that reason, I have decanted the mix into a small paint pot. The transom decoration is pre-printed ‘borrowed’ from Chuck’s Winchelsea build. My artistic talents are unfortunately not up to recreating that level of decoration by hand.
 
@ Ron, - unfortunately the cook has run and the Purser is thought to be ashore arguing with the Victualling Board rep.
 
@ Glenn, -  it was kind of Chuck to  modify the Upper counter frieze with the Sphinx name, a much better representation than I achieved.
Just held on with double sided tape at present but I will eventually use a smear of pva. It will eventually be fitted in conjunction with the top and bottom rails.
I do have several sets printed off to allow for any cock-ups.
For the colour I just played around with the basic formula  for creating a Turquoise shade  tending towards the blue spectrum rather than the green.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

Post Sixty-five
 
A question of colour.
The time is approaching where I need to decide whether I am going to use the printed decoration on the Upper and lower counters, so kindly modified for me by Chuck.

2235(5)
The patterns were scaled to size, printed on best setting, and sealed with Artists fixative.
The ground to the printed pieces  is a pastel shade of Turquoise with elements of Blue/green.
 
 
I need to produce a paint mix that is a good match to the printed elements, and to this end I am using Vallejo acrylic paints.

2236
After a some time of trial and error I finally produced a mix that will I hope suffice.

2248(2)
The mix contains 1:1 ratio of Prussian Blue and Tan Yellow with added drops of White and Pastel Blue. Sufficient has been produced to hopefully complete the model.

2253
The only point of contact between paper and paint will be the Quarter Gallery Berthing pieces, and these have been given a preliminary coat for test purposes.

2254
Always difficult trying to represent colours on photo’s, and my eye has to be the final arbiter on the actual model.
I think I can work with this and tweak the shade as necessary.
 
One other minor paint job completed, that of the ‘brick’ base on which the stove sits.

2261
This was painted with Vallejo Hull red ( which looks brown) over-washed with a red ochre, and finished with a dry brush using Vallejo Light slate grey weathering powder.
I thought this would provide a nice contrast to the ‘iron’ stove.
 
I think it is now time to attend to the rudder and  progress the stern completion.
 
B.E.
17/01/22
 
 

Post Sixty-four
 
 Bits and pieces.
Time to make up the ladders leading down from the Upper deck.
There are two laser cut sets in Pearwood, nicely formed with added decoration down the stiles and shaped treads, a cut above the standard fayre in many kits.

2195
The only point that struck me was that the Main ladderway midships is quite  wide  and I wondered if a central stile was appropriate to support the treads.

2178
Still need a little cleaning up at this point, and a finish with w-o-p.

2209
Ladders are tricky little  beggars to fit, and I always attach a length of cotton to the top tread so it may be recovered if it slips onto the lower deck, or even deeper into the hull.
 
I wasn’t happy with the Aft hatch grating and Chris was kind enough to sell me replacement bespoke gratings both for the Upper deck and the Quarter deck, which I thought also may present me with similar issues later on.

2176
The gratings are cut, soaked and bent around a large circumference tube to impart the necessary curve.

2188
It took two of the basic aft hatch gratings to make one split version, which is more historically accurate, and satisfies the detail devil that lives within me.

2190
Now satisfied, I can move on.
 
The kit contains simple Mast rings to glue on the deck over the mast holes. With open beams I thought a minor enhancement to better represent the mast partners was in order.

2217
Not entirely authentic but sufficient for the purpose..
I believe the rings are supposed to be a representation of the  wedges used to secure the mast against the partners.

2222
Fore mast partners.
When doing this sort of modification it is worth checking how it will affect the surrounding fittings.

2226
The Fore riding Bitts and supports needed the mortices  tweaking a little to fit, but with the surrounding fixtures very little will be seen of the partners.

2231
Looks like a  major char removal exercise is looming.
 
B.E.
15/01/22
 
 
 
 

I much appreciate your comments guys, and those who look in and 'like'
 
Post Sixty-three
 
Sorting out the deck fittings
A couple of hours work to clean up the fittings holes on the Upper deck  and trial fit the pieces.

2159
Surprising how long it took to identify all the relevant parts, and group together in their respective sets. All were labelled and secured in six separate plastic bags.
 
I don’t want any falling within the sphere of my yard assistant, whose first rule of operation is:- ‘if it’s on the floor it’s mine’
There’s a lot of char to clean up but that can wait for the present, a job for a day when watching paint dry isn’t an option.

2163
The deck is taped and the coaming/hatchways are repainted using Vallejo matt black.

2171
I decided to represent treenail covers using 0.35mm drill holes filled with tinted filler. They are barely visible, as should be, and are only applied to the butt joints.
 
A final scraping, followed by a sealing coat of Vallejo matt varnish.

2170(2)

2164
I think I will make up the ladder sets next and fit those whilst the decks are clear.
 
B.E.
13/01/22
 
 

Post Sixty- two
.
A five month photo review.
With the planking completed I was keen to see how the hatches and gratings looked.

2148(2)

2140(2)

2137(2)

2136(2)
With the decking in place it all looks so much better and things are proceeding to plan.

2152

2146
My eye keeps catching the slight difference between the Aft hatch grating and the others.
I am otherwise happy with the  modified coamings  and curved gratings.

2141

2144(2)
 
I will now spend some time ensuring that all the deck fittings  slot into their allotted holes before moving on.
 
B.E.
11/01/22
 
 
 
 

Post Sixty-one
 
 ... and more deck planking.
The second bite at the planking cherry went better with fairly rapid planking along the deck using 3.4mm strips.
At the bow end I merely butted the planks against the margin, back to the Bridle port, but this part of the construction will be obscured.
 
When it’s straightforward I find deck planking quite relaxing, as with most things it’s the fiddly bits that take the time, and tend to frustrate.
 
As the planking line approaches the Margins, Hooded planks become a requirement.
I am not using joggling into the margins on this build.
Wider planks as necessary are needed to make hooded planks;  it’s not that difficult, the tricky part is getting the tail  to match the standard 3.4mm wide planks that extend from the hooded strakes.
 
At this point I also considered  using Top and Butt planking for the outboard four strakes as  indicated in the Tffm Swan books.
On  contemporary models of the period there is not any evidence that I can see to support a general use of this planking form.
This is what Peter Goodwin has to say on the subject.              
(The construction and fitting of the English Man of War 1650-1850)
 
In most vessels all the planking was of parallel strakes, with the butts square.
Some builders fitted two strakes of either top and butt or anchor stock 4 ft from each side of the ship. This practice was probably adopted towards the end of the eighteenth century.
 
Much as I find Top and Butt  visually appealing, I have decided to forgo the pleasure; I did trial a mock-up but the t&b planks would extend some 26mm from the margin with a high point of 5.5mm. They covered  over half of the broadest deck width, and seemed to my eye to overwhelm the overall look.
 
Well that’s my excuse.
 
A further three days work and the planking is complete.

2107
The process of deck scraping begins.

2116

2114(2)
 
Once I’m satisfied with the scraping I will apply a coat of flat matt varnish to help protect the surface.
I will then need to re-vist the finish on the coamings which has suffered somewhat during the planking.
 
B.E.
10/01/22
 

Hi BE,
The ledges and battens seem about right, but I would have thought they would both be the same, i.e. 0.70 or 1mm which would be about 2"- 2.5" at full scale.  I have no access to my books for another week so I may be off base regarding this dimension but I believe the battens, ledges and openings would be about 2.5"-3".   This is something most kits get wrong, but again, yours look far better than any other kit gratings I have seen on the build logs here at MSW.   
 
Allan

Hi Allan,
The kit supplied Pearwood gratings are very nice; the ledges are 1mm and the battens 0.70mm. The after market equivalent from Vanguard are still  good but slightly less fine than the kit specific ones.
 
I had originally intended using Syren curved Boxwood grating kits but having made up a  sample, on this particular model I thought the Pearwood looked better.
 
The kit coamings etc were designed to sit atop the supplied etched decks, so I added the thickness of the deck to the bottom to represent the depth down to the beams (represented by the false deck)
The Boxwood planking is now at the same level as would have been using the kit set -up.
 
The Head ledges were added as a 'round-up' wasn't represented on the kit set-up, and it's something I like to see.
 
Thank you for looking in.
 
B.E.
 
 

BE,
Your model looks terrific and Vanguard seems to have gone out of their way to provide both quality material and accuracy. The gratings you have from Vanguard look far and away better than any other kit gratings I have seen.  What is the width of the ledge and/or batten?   
 
You mentioned adding wood the thickness of the deck planks to the underside of the coamings and head ledges.  I thought the head ledges and coamings sat on the beams and carlings, but in looking at a couple contemporary inboard profile drawings I am not so sure which, if any,  was standard practice, sitting on the beams or sitting on the planking.  I have no access to any of my books while traveling so hope someone here has a definitive answer.
 
Thanks for sharing your build BE, this has been a really nice log to follow.
 
Allan
 

Post Sixty
Planking continues.
The tricky business of  laying down the binding strakes is next.
These incorporate the tabs that fit around the coamings and are cut from wider 6mm strip.

2086
I had a few goes at getting the cutting right particularly along the section  that encompassed the Main and aft hatchways, but got there at the end of a long day.
 
The next tedious stage was re-cutting all the holes for the deck fittings and masts.
Drilling, cutting with a scalpel blade, and finishing with files.

2079
The deck will look much better once it has been cleaned up. This will involve scraping using an old small plane blade, I never sand decks.
The cut-out holes for the fittings will be fully cleaned up once the decking is complete.
This work needs to be done with soft hands using needle files, as the merest hint of harsh filing has a tendency to rip the thin Boxwood planking.
 
As he who needs no introduction would say: 
You are not carving a bear with a chain saw here folks.
I love that saying which has stuck in my mind from my Royal Barge build instructions.
 

2088(2)
From this point I moved to using the 3.4mm planks and I start to apply tapering towards the bow and stern having marked  the decreasing widths on the false deck.

After a days work I decided it wasn’t good enough, and I didn’t like the look, so at close of play most of the planking beyond the binding strakes was ripped up.

2094ps
Fortunately, the planks came away mostly intact simply by slipping a thin blade beneath one end and sliding it along.
 
Frustrating, but it had to be done, and it’s back into the fray  today.
 
B.E.
08/01/22
 
 

Thank you Theo and Ron. 👍
 
Post Fifty-nine
 
Planking begins.
The centre line coamings are at last glued into place and the gratings are temporarily replaced by the fret cut-outs to prevent stuff falling down the hatches.

2028

2029
Always worth keeping these pieces which also make good templates.
 
One final check, the Quarter deck sub deck is  tried in place to  confirm that the Capstan link between the two decks aligns, along with the Mizzen Mast, I don’t want any nasty surprises down the line.

2019

2023
The hatched areas are part of the reduction in planking area, but until the deck beams are in place this can’t be progressed.
 
As we all know there is no need for butt shifts between the hatches etc; the shorter plank lengths preclude such requirements.
My primary planking strips will be of 3.4mm and 4.5mm.
I trialled different approaches to the initial planking layout; a plank along the middle line of the deck, or planks each side of the middle line.
I  settled on planks either side of the middle line.

2066

2064
The kit plan butt joints and shifts are marked on the false deck, but in practice there will almost certainly be variations as planking progresses.

2067
These are a combination of 3.4mm and 4.5mm wide planks to give the best result between the hatches.
The binding strakes will have tabs to meet the coamings and avoid the otherwise narrow planking strips.

2053

2048

2052(2)
Work will now continue on the planking.
 
B.E.
04/01/22
 

 

Nice one Glenn, rest assured I will be coaming thro’ all my options to resolve the issue.
 
@ Derek – there’s a great British tradition of blaming it on the dog, and I’m sure Hector is simply lulling you into a false sense of security, dogs are great at playing the long game.
 
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

William doesn't look impressed at the idea of using him as a scapegoat (or maybe he's groaning in anticipation of Glenn's post!).
 
Fortunately my shipyard assistant, Hector, is too small and lazy to eat important stuff, unless it falls off the workbench and straight into his mouth:
 

Happy New Year to you from me and Hector

I imagine it really grates on you, hopefully you’ll be able to hatch a solution. 

Post Fifty-eight
 
Back to gratings.
The replacement gratings (separate sets of 1.1mm square holes) have arrived (thanks Chris) so I return to creating gratings with a  ‘round’.
Somewhat disappointed as these sets have a subtly different look to the kit provided ones, not quite as fine, and they are less  accepting of messing with than the originals.
Chris did tell me that the gratings are made using the same timber and process but that The Sphinx ones were specifically made for the kit, as with much of his stuff.

1997(2)
The ones in the frame are originals the others the after market grating squares.
So far I am happy with the originals for the Fore Hatch, and the two sections for the Main Hatch.

1995(2)
My meddling with the Aft Hatch resulted in an acceptable result as above, being destroyed when I decided to split it into two sections.
The replacement had to be made using the newly arrived gratings.
Even there I  destroyed one square cutting the grating the wrong way; those who know will know that the longitudinal strips run fore/ aft on a grating.
With careful cutting I eventually managed to  create the size and round, but I’m back to square one as far as having two sections.

2004
The difference in look is clearly apparent here between the Fore Hatch (original) and the Aft Hatch (aftermarket)

2014
I am unable to split the aft hatch into two sections due to the hole spacing.

2013(2)
The one saving grace is that if I have to use the Aft hatch as is, it is below the Qtr deck, but then there will be very little planking on the Qtr deck.
Not sure my eye will  accept the difference.
 
I may have to approach Chris cap in hand, to sell me replacement kit specific gratings for the Sphinx, or live with the consequences.

5095
A last resort may be to plead with Chris that the Dog ate my gratings. (he does have form)
 
Anyway, Happy New Year to everyone from me and my shipyard liability  assistant.
 
B.E.
01/01/22
 

Thank you Ron, a very generous comment, I think we both enjoy 'tweaking ' kits to hopefully add interest to our builds.
 
B.E.
 
Post Fifty-seven
 
Great Cabin
The parquet flooring is glued into place, it is reduced in size due to the cabin modifications, and w-o-p was applied before fitting.
I did experiment with various wood dyes on the offcuts  to see  if the pattern could be enhanced, but none were successful.

1986
Still not convinced whether I like it or not, but there’s always the fallback use of the b/w chequer.
I rather thought that a degree of panelling was appropriate to the Great Cabin but at this scale and with the available views, I considered a printed version would suffice.

1990
I used the simple expediency of printing off the kit panelling and scaling it to fit with a little bit of tweaking here and there.
 
Thinking about deck planking.
The Upper deck will be planked  using 0.6mm x various widths of Boxwood strip, mostly 3.4mm and 4.5mm. Wider strips will be used  to work around the hatches.
The first task will be to plank between the centre line fittings.

1995
I have the idea of using a photo copy of the kit deck plan to mark the butt joints on the false deck as a guide to work to.
This will save me the job of working out a schematic and an appropriate butt shift.
The kit arrangement is a four butt shift which looks fine to my eye.

1982
The overlay will also be used to mark and cut those awkward  fittings cut-outs, particularly  around the Mainmast.
 
Here’s a mock up of how things will look.

1974(2)

1975(2)
Before all this happens I need to invert the hull for the last time to  apply one more coat of w-o-p and complete the fettlin’ of the finishing pieces of the Quarter Galleries.
 
B.E
29/12/21
 
 
 

Post Fifty-six
 Upper deck fittings  continued
 
Colouring the Coamings.
There is a lot of Red ochre  on the model so I decided to paint the coamings black. I felt this would give a nicer contrast to the Pearwood gratings which I will lightly varnish using w-o-p.
The  coamings were shaped on the underside to match the deck camber, and plank thick strips added to give the correct height above the deck planking.
These pieces took a lot cleaning up and removal of laser burn, before painting. Below the grating rebate the  coamings were simply varnished.
Admiralty Brand Ironwork Black was used to colour.

1952
With a grating section removed there are  glimpses of the Lower deck thro’ the Main Hatch.

1941
The trickiest part of modifying the main hatch/ladderway combo, is working a round-up  to the head ledge between the hatch and ladderway.
Through this section pass the forward stanchions of the pump handles. (412) which continue through the Upper deck to seat on the lower deck.
The holes need easing to allow passage of the stanchions without stress, and a  ‘round-up’ is cut to fit around the stanchions.
 
The Fore Hatch grating has been cut into two sections, and looks much better to my eye.

1939

0063
I now have the option to leave  the forward section off giving a view down through the Lower deck to the Hold, and the ladderway to the forward platform.
 
The aft ladderway with Capstan step.

1938

1951
Looking thro’ the aft ladderway coaming down to the Lower deck ladderway to the Orlop.

1968
With these modifications the impression is thus given of a model with all decks represented.

1958

1956
The next stage is to glue the centre line fittings to the false deck, but a couple of the gratings are not as good as I would like so I will defer until I receive the replacements from Chris. It is easier to fine tune the gratings with the hatches off the model.

1959(3)
Overall it’s going to plan, so I’m happy with progress to date.
 
Happy New Year to you all.
 
B.E.
26/12/21
 
 
 

Well done Tim,  she's a fine looking 'Swan', you've every right to feel proud of  your achievement.
 
B.E.

Completed my first wooden ship!!  It is by no means perfect but I’m proud of every piece of it.  I’ve learned a ton and I am a full convert to wooden vs plastic.   
 
I still have to make a base and a case at some point but that will be after we move to our new home next week. 



thank you to all that have left tips and words of encouragement…it has helped immensely
 
until the next ship…..
 
Tim 

Thank you for all of the likes and comments!
excellent advice.  I have already caught myself a few times and remade a knot here and there.  It’s so easy to get excited and rush 

Hi all
 
after another decent amount of time and a small sprinkle of covid at the beginning of the year, a lot of progress has been made again.  I have completed all of the yard assemblies and have attached a few of them so far.  I am not sure that all lines will run exactly as they should but so far it looks nice to my eye! 

I can see the finish line approaching.   Can’t wait to see the final product sitting on my bench top 

 
happy Tuesday! 
 

Post Four
Creating a Ladderway
 
This post involves modifying things to create a Fore hatch ladderway on the Lower deck down to the Fore Platform.
This is not for the faint hearted as it involves cutting Bulkhead 4 in half and trimming the false keel.

3716
The bulkhead is halved, and the centre section is removed.

3718
The short keel piece sticking up in the centre will also be removed.

3719
A test check of the Ladderway with the lower deck in place.

3723
Bulkhead 5 is glued into place along with the Fore Platform.

3722
The lower deck is temporarily refitted to hold the bulkhead in place until the glue sets.

3753
Bulkhead 4 halves are glued into place against the False keel and forward connections of the Platform.

3747
Bracing blocks are glued to the lower part of the bulkhead and the keel.

3725
The Lower deck was again put back to square the bulkheads.

3755
The completed area opened up.

3735

3752
A ladder can now be installed once the hatchway coamings are fitted.
 
Onto the stern Ladderway and Aft Platform, which is a less  dramatic modification.
 
B.E.
26/08/21
 

Well  Chris, at least you have provided a run through  upper deck which has saved me the trouble of the serious mod  necessary on Pegasus, and for that I'm ever grateful.👍
 
B.E

Fore and aft orlop platforms were included in original designs, but decided against. Due to bulkhead positionings, I removed, but kept fore platform but no ladderway. Original designs I did still show them..