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About DelF

  • Birthday 07/13/1951

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    Nottinghamshire, UK

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  1. Excellent result Tim - well-rigged guns really add a huge amount to the visual impact. Well done! Derek
  2. No, although that might work if you were careful. In my photo you can see that some of the MDF has been sanded down, especially at the point. That was unintentional - I did it when sanding the planking. However it wasn't a problem - you can easily lose mistakes like that under second planking and coppering. As I said before, filler is your friend! The crucial point is to make sure that the combined width of the MDF and planking at the stern is the same as the width of the sternpost. You want the hull planking to flow smoothly into the sternpost so there is no obvious step or angle
  3. Rigging the spars - stropping blocks Thanks as always for the likes and kind comments. I should have said earlier, but one reason I'm not giving a blow-by-blow account of the rigging is that I've decided to follow the kit plans fairly closely, so anyone else building the model would learn little. On my previous fully-rigged ship, Royal Caroline, I did extensive research through the AOTS book on the royal yacht, Lees's Masting & Rigging and The Fully Framed Model (the 4th volume is great on rigging a 6th rate similar to RC). But that was primarily because the kit pla
  4. Very good first planking James. You're right that you don't need to cover all the MDF at the stern. On the other hand you need to make sure the planks merge smoothly into the MDF, especially the second planking, otherwise you'll end up with a step. Here's mine after sanding: I think there are similar photos in the kit manual. Unfortunately you do have to sand off a good deal of wood to get the desired result (alternatively filler can be a life saver in first planking!). Anyway, well done. You've produced a sound base for your second planking. Derek
  5. Hi. I'd be interested in your three AOTS books. I'm also based in Nottinghamshire so regular postage should do for me as well. Looking forward to your pm. Ta Derek
  6. I'm surprised, as I find the Proxxon mill very accurate. Have you tried adjusting the gib strips to eliminate any play in the 3 axes? I've not had any problem with backlash with mine, but if it an issue I suspect there's information on the web on how to eliminate it. Derek
  7. Well done Gerry! That’s a great job on the first planking. I wouldn’t say you are slow - you clearly work steadily and carefully and the results show. You’ve produced a perfect base for the second planking. Derek
  8. The kit supplied barrels are far too big. I replaced them with these 28mm ones from Amati. You can get them with carriages, but I made my own. To my eye they look in proportion, unlike the original cannon: Trouble is, the AOS book is such a good reference source that you'll find yourself wanting to enhance the kit in lots of other ways. Don't get me wrong - the kit makes up into a fine and decorative model, but for me part of the fun in this hobby is looking for ways of enhancing kits to make them more historically accurate and realistic and to increase my own skills a
  9. Congratulations on completing a lovely model - the figures really bring her to life. Not bad for a 168 year-old! 🤪 Derek
  10. Wow, that’s hot! The UK Record is 38.7 C/ 101.7 F set in July last year - and not in North Yorkshire! It got close to 100 where I live - I was painting a fence that day and had to retreat indoors for several restorative beers. Great - it’s so useful for many aspects of our hobby. Derek
  11. Glad to see from your Muirneag log that you were able to get a break in Devon - now I'm envious! Derek
  12. Hi Nikolai When I built a Victory cross-section I decided to cut the main mast off just above the upper deck, partly to save space, but also because I just felt the fully rigged cross section looked unbalanced - too top heavy: Cutting the mast short, I was able to display the model in a modified picture frame: As the others say, go with what works for you. Derek
  13. Sjors, I also found the stern counter timbers tricky, although I did manage to impart a curve to the stern counter by clamping it whilst it was drying: Here's a link to my Speedy log where I fitted the stern counter timbers. I agree with dkuehn - if you can get the boom crutch to tie in neatly with the wales it will look fine. However if you can fit the stern counter timber as intended it will be even better. Derek
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