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DelF

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About DelF

  • Birthday 07/13/1951

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    Nottinghamshire, UK

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  1. ...and the preface on page 12, where the author thanks Captain Paasch for supplying the engravings. (Great find Bruce)
  2. Thanks Chuck, great videos. Just out of curiosity, I wondered why you have switched from using hot air (which I saw you using to good effect in a previous video) to an iron? Derek
  3. Couple of weeks off visiting family, so now I've finally taken the plunge and started making sawdust. My wife's help in cutting out the templates with her scan 'n cut machine certainly makes it easy to juggle the shapes around and minimise wastage. The pritt stick worked well in sticking the paper (I hadn't used it yet in this photo!). Rough cuts on the bandsaw followed by trickier work on the scroll saw: I haven't sanded the edges yet, and I won't finish the slots until I'm ready to fit the frames, but I'm quite pleased with this first attempt. It's given me the incentive to press on slowly with this preliminary work whilst I finish other projects. Derek
  4. Blue Ensign did a good review of the mid-range Proxxon scroll saw which you may find helpful: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/5807-proxxon-micro-mbs-240e-band-saw-review/?tab=comments#comment-167333 Derek
  5. The plywood arrived today. Although it was well packaged, the light ply was warped. As a first step I've put it under a heavy MDF sheet with the weights off my dive belt on top. If that doesn't work I'll have to try for some advice from the forum: Fingers crossed☹️! The birch ply looks OK, so I'm going to have a go at cutting out the false keel with the new scroll saw. Derek
  6. Here's the thread and glue I use, both from The Essential Fly: You can see a strand of the thread across the white bottle cap. According to my micrometer it's 0.03mm/.001" - roughly the diameter of thin human hair. Derek
  7. I’ve found silk fly-tying thread works well. For clarity, that’s the stuff fly fishermen use to tie their lures and it can be obtained in a variety of gauges and colours including black and brown. The higher the gauge number, the finer the thread - 18/0 is the finest I’ve found. Fly fishing suppliers also sell a glue that sounds very similar to the jewellery product Dr PR mentioned in his earlier post. I’ve found this works well when used on seizings made with silk thread. Derek
  8. I will go for the boxwood set, but probably not until I have finished other projects and can concentrate on the Winchelsea. Derek
  9. The Proxxon scroll saw has arrived, and after setting it up and playing with it I've discovered it requires more skill than I'd realised! In between practising and watching assorted "Scroll sawing for Beginners" videos on Youtube I've decided not to wait until I've finished my other projects before starting on the Winchelsea. I figured if I start slowly, cutting out one or two frames per week, I'll build up my skills over time rather than trying to cut out all the components in one go. I've ordered a couple of spare sheets of plywood so if my early attempts are rubbish I can replace them. I've ordered birch ply for the false keel and light ply for the frames, as suggested by folk on the project - based on the rigidity and strength of the former and the easier sanding of the latter. As for timber, I've had to re-think using Alaskan yellow cedar. On further investigation (ie googling) it seems that most if not all sources in the UK are either boatyards or firms providing high-end cladding for buildings. In both cases the quantities and/or shipping charges are way too high for modelling. For example, the minimum delivery charge of £75 😲 quoted by one supplier would be OK if you were buying enough timber to build a full size boat, but not a three foot model! I was going to order a small sample piece from another boatyard until they tried to charge £21 for delivering a £9 plank. I suspect if I lived closer to a boatyard I might be able to explain my needs in person and negotiate something more sensible but I don't, so I've decided to fall back on boxwood. Exotic Hardwoods do a variety of sizes of sawn castello boxwood boards which I've found to be good quality in the past. For example I got all the masts and yards for my Caroline build out of a 13mm board and was very happy with the quality. Not quite as fine as English boxwood but a good substitute. I've ordered three boards in different sizes to get me started. Original Marquetry also do castello boxwood in a few thinner sizes. For example, I used their 1.5mm sawn veneer to make the frames for the pinnace I mentioned in an earlier post. I'm off to play practice with the scroll saw again! Derek
  10. As I said in my first post I won't be starting serious work for some time as I have other projects I need to finish first. However I've done some initial prep work which I shall describe below. I mentioned using a jeweller's piercing saw on the pinnace for my Royal Caroline build - here's the result, built in boxwood: Although I am happy with the end product I can't imagine cutting out all the Winchelsea components by hand, so I've ordered a Proxxon scroll saw which should arrive from Germany in the next day or so. I should add that I got the idea for the pinnace from Blue Ensign's Pegasus build, where he used Model Shipways' pinnace kit as a starting point, reducing the scale from 1:24. Like Blue Ensign, I want to complete the Model Shipways kit in its own right so that's next on the stocks: An enjoyable and hopefully relatively short interlude. At the same time I need to complete the Royal Caroline, shown here in my homemade dust cabinet and just awaiting final tarting up: I started the Caroline before I discovered MSW so much of it is cruder than I would now be happy with, but in time to scratch build some of the later fittings and the rigging. Apart from the pinnace, you might notice Chuck's lanterns. I also made all my own rigging using Syren's rope rocket. Lastly, I have to finish off a Victory cross section I got as a present half way through the Caroline build: Again, much cruder than I'd now aspire to but at least I scrapped the out-of-scale kit ladders. Back to the Winchelsea. I've decided that I can at least get the plans and other materials together so that I can get off to a good start when the stocks are clear. I started by getting the larger, 40" X 30" plans printed by an online firm that specialises in architectural drawings as I described in a post elsewhere: UK Plan printing service. Next, I enlisted my wife's help in preparing the templates need to cut components out of sheet material. She has a machine she uses for her card making and other hobbies, called a Brother Scan n' Cut. As the name suggests, you can scan drawings in, scale and edit them, and the machine will cut out the resulting shapes from paper or card. You can replace the cutter with a pen and it will draw the pattern rather than cut it. Alternatively, .pdf files such as Chuck's for the Wichelsea can be sent to the machine which eliminates the scanning stage and thus reduces the scope for error creeping in. I've used the machine several times when I've needed paper templates for small, intricate components and it's worked a treat. This time, my wife kindly offered her help in cutting out all the Winchelsea's components - here's one example: Of course, it would be possible to stick the whole sheet of paper to the wood rather than cutting out the template, but I like the latter method for a number of reasons - you can shuffle individual templates around on the wood to minimise wastage, you use less glue, and I find it easier to cut to the paper line (where I can see the wood) rather than cutting through solid paper. Maybe that's just me - I'm sure others would be equally happy with the other method. Next step will be sourcing suitable plywood and timber. On plywood, I was relieved when Chuck confirmed that using metric sheets (i.e. 6mm rather than 1/4") is not a big deal - I'll just need to make sure the bulkheads are a snug fit in the keel. As for timber, I'm sorely tempted to go for Alaskan Yellow Cedar as used by Chuck. I've found a source in the UK, and I'll report back when I've received a sample. Meanwhile I'm enjoying following other folks' progress on the project. Derek
  11. I should have thought of this before, but on this side of the pond we’ve gone metric. I can get 6mm ply and 6.5mm ply - one is slightly under 1/4” and the other slightly over. My question is, how big a deal is this? Can I, for example, just tweak the slots in the keel to accommodate slightly thinner/thicker bulkheads? Or are there other potential problems I’ve not considered? Grateful for any thoughts and advice. Derek
  12. There’s a review of power tool options in the articles database that you might find helpful if you've not already read it. I’m afraid my personal approach is usually to get tempted into buying a tool then looking for a use for it. That said, I’ve found lots of uses for my table saw (Preac and latterly Byrnes), micro-mill, rotary tool, bandsaw and wood lathe (all Proxxon) and various larger tools I also use for DIY and other hobbies, such as a metal lathe and a mill. Next on the wish list is a scroll saw. I recently cut a set of frames by hand with a jeweller’s piercing saw - never again! Derek
  13. I think Pete is talking about the timber rings that sit either side of the rope wooldings and which must necessarily fit tight to the mast, as opposed to mast hoops which must slide up and down the mast. One solution would be to try the shrink-fit tube electricians use - you can get a large pack of multiple sizes from Amazon or eBay for the price of a cup of coffee. Cut a thin slice of tube the next size up from the required diameter, slip it on the mast and gently heat with a hot air gun until it shrinks on, then paint as required. Alien material, I know, but it does the job. Also works well on square sections, such as mastheads and anchor stocks. Derek
  14. Just seen this and wanted to echo everyone’s congratulations. I’m very impressed, especially as this is just your second build - and super-impressed that you completed it in just over a year. Derek
  15. I'm starting this log as Chuck asked us to in his introduction to the project, but it will have to be a place holder for a while as I finish other builds. Having said that, I'm looking forward to testing my skills on scratch building as much of this project as possible, with the probable exception of the boxwood carvings and figurehead which look too good to resist! The first step will be to persuade dockyard officialdom (she who holds the pursestrings) that I need a scroll saw. I used a jeweller's piercing saw to produce the frames for a 1:48 pinnace for my current Royal Caroline build but that's not an experience I want to repeat on a larger model. Good luck to all the folk who will be beating me out of the starting blocks - I'll watch your logs with interest. Derek

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