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About DelF

  • Birthday 07/13/1951

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    Nottinghamshire, UK

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  1. I should have thought of this before, but on this side of the pond we’ve gone metric. I can get 6mm ply and 6.5mm ply - one is slightly under 1/4” and the other slightly over. My question is, how big a deal is this? Can I, for example, just tweak the slots in the keel to accommodate slightly thinner/thicker bulkheads? Or are there other potential problems I’ve not considered? Grateful for any thoughts and advice. Derek
  2. There’s a review of power tool options in the articles database that you might find helpful if you've not already read it. I’m afraid my personal approach is usually to get tempted into buying a tool then looking for a use for it. That said, I’ve found lots of uses for my table saw (Preac and latterly Byrnes), micro-mill, rotary tool, bandsaw and wood lathe (all Proxxon) and various larger tools I also use for DIY and other hobbies, such as a metal lathe and a mill. Next on the wish list is a scroll saw. I recently cut a set of frames by hand with a jeweller’s piercing saw - never again! Derek
  3. I think Pete is talking about the timber rings that sit either side of the rope wooldings and which must necessarily fit tight to the mast, as opposed to mast hoops which must slide up and down the mast. One solution would be to try the shrink-fit tube electricians use - you can get a large pack of multiple sizes from Amazon or eBay for the price of a cup of coffee. Cut a thin slice of tube the next size up from the required diameter, slip it on the mast and gently heat with a hot air gun until it shrinks on, then paint as required. Alien material, I know, but it does the job. Also works well on square sections, such as mastheads and anchor stocks. Derek
  4. Just seen this and wanted to echo everyone’s congratulations. I’m very impressed, especially as this is just your second build - and super-impressed that you completed it in just over a year. Derek
  5. I'm starting this log as Chuck asked us to in his introduction to the project, but it will have to be a place holder for a while as I finish other builds. Having said that, I'm looking forward to testing my skills on scratch building as much of this project as possible, with the probable exception of the boxwood carvings and figurehead which look too good to resist! The first step will be to persuade dockyard officialdom (she who holds the pursestrings) that I need a scroll saw. I used a jeweller's piercing saw to produce the frames for a 1:48 pinnace for my current Royal Caroline build but that's not an experience I want to repeat on a larger model. Good luck to all the folk who will be beating me out of the starting blocks - I'll watch your logs with interest. Derek
  6. Hi Kurt I'm in a similar position, having renewed just this Wednesday. If I'd known about the offer I'd have gone for the two year option. Thanks in advance if you can help out. Derek
  7. Kurt - in this context, topic means the same as thread. To use your example, if you search for ‘blocks’ in Ed Tosti’s build log and check ‘this topic', the search will return all references to blocks in Ed’s log (and only in that log). Hope this is clear. Derek
  8. Kurt When you're in the topic you want to search, go to the search field and you should see a drop-down menu. Click on the 'This topic' option and your search will be limited accordingly. Derek
  9. I picked up the saw yesterday (carefully - it really does weigh around 30 pounds!). I must say it has lived up to my expectations so far, both in terms of build quality and performance. I tried a few tests cuts when I got it home and was very impressed with the accuracy. For example, when I rip cut a strip from a board, the difference in the width of the two ends of the strip was no more than 0.01mm/.0004". I also tested the micrometer stop. The saw is fitted with the metric version, so I measured my strip, moved the fence 0.1mm cut again and remeasured. My digital micrometer reckoned I'd taken 0.09mm off. One hundredth of a millimeter difference is probably within the reading error using a micrometer and in any case I can live with that level of accuracy for model making. Today I used the saw to make a display base out of a solid oak plank. The machine had no problem at all ripping and cross cutting through 18mm/0.71" hardwood. I think I'll follow Bob's suggestion. The saw came with two carbide blades which are absolutely fine, but with 0.055"/1.4mm kerf they turn a lot of expensive timber into sawdust. Also, although the finish on the cut surfaces is perfectly acceptable, it is not quite the mirror finish I get with the Preac, so I'll probably get a couple of thinner slitting blades. Either that, or I'll pick up Bob's other suggestion and get some arbor adaptors from Jim Byrnes as I believe I can get suitable blades in the UK. Bottom line though - this is definitely my new favorite toy tool. Derek
  10. Hi Mark I haven't sourced any for the Byrnes saw yet. I've had a hard time finding any blades for the Preac - the main problem being their small diameter. I managed to get one from Amazon recently (https://www.amazon.co.uk/0-5mm-Thickness-Circular-Slitting-Blade/dp/B009XPCT02/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Sourcingmap+blade&qid=1559927411&rnid=1642204031&s=diy&sr=1-1). I've also had success with arceurotrade.co.uk - just search for slitting saws. Hope this helps, and thanks again for highlighting the eBay listing! Derek
  11. Many thanks to No Idea for posting the link to the ebay auction. I was the only bidder and am now the proud owner of a Byrnes saw for the starting price of £450. Or at least I will be when I pick it up - just a 140 mile round trip sometime in the next few days. My old Preac saw still works, but it's no longer in production and I find it very hard to source replacement blades in the UK. I've been hankering (lusting!) after a Byrnes for ages but have always been put off by the shipping and import costs. They were horrendous for the Preac many years ago, and I hate to think what they would be now, so I was delighted to see one listed locally. I can't wait to get working with it, and am going to start by re-reading all the tips and advice on the forum. There were a couple of bidders for the thickness/sander which went for £280.01 - slightly more than the opening price but still reasonable. That auction ended an hour or so before the saw auction, so I was anticipating at least as much interest for the latter and was bracing myself and my wallet for a potential bidding war . So I was pleasantly surprised when I put in the only offer. Perhaps all my fellow UK modellers already have Byrnes saws! Off to bed now, very happy 😁 Derek
  12. Just caught up with your completed project. Many congratulations on another superb model. As ever, your logs serve as a great source of inspiration and ideas for the rest of us. Best wishes Derek
  13. Many thanks for posting the link. My new Kunz plane arrived today, so your message was very timely. After your first post I’d tried to google ‘accurizing Kunz planes’ to no avail, so I am very grateful you came back with the link. Derek

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