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About rjones726

  • Birthday May 19

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    Port Orchard, Washington

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  1. Lookin' good Rusty. I'm right there with you. The cold, wet weather has moved into the PNW today so I came home from work and finished gluing the keel to the frames. I'm sitting down with a glass of wine and a fire. Eventually I will take some photos and update my build log. Have fun! Rob
  2. Hi Chuck. It is the new keel. I sanded the center keel piece (with notches) after it was glued on to match the stern pieces. I took the photo before I did it. v/r, Rob
  3. I haven't posted in a week or so- it's time for an update. I sanded the stern keel sections to achieve a 1/32" rabbit to accommodate the width of the planks, Everything went great until I decided to dry fit the transom. I sanded the entire stern keel section such that it didn't fit snugly in the laser notch of the transom any more. Of course I waited to check this until after I had glued the stern keel section onto the keel. I debated trying to use alcohol or some other method to try to get it off but in the end I decided to start over using the simplified keel. This time I was careful to only sand the lower portion and leave the upper part alone. The transom fit the way it was supposed to and I am pretty happy with the result. I have been taking my time assembling the frames and working on getting them to fit snugly into the build board. Next task is to get a good fit of all frames in the keel notches. I am sure there are other folks here who are as inexperienced as I am. Hopefully by talking about my mistake, someone reading this will avoid my error. v/r, Rob
  4. Jeff, I have had the same problems you describe. I used an exact with a sharp #11 blade and a file. The key for me was to take a little off with the blade, file it smooth, and repeat until I removed enough material. I took my time and it came out better than I expected. Having a plan B really took the pressure off. I knew that if I screwed it up I would still be able to complete the project. Have fun!!! v/r, Rob
  5. Well I guess my build is underway. I began by using a set of digital calipers to measure the width of the keel. I then divided by 2, set the calipers and made a faint mark on the charred sides of the keel pieces at the scarf joints. Using those marks as a gage I began to cut and file my way down. As I got close I began using the calipers themselves to check for high spots. I'll glue them up once I run to the store and grab some titebond. I followed Chucks advice to take my time and not settle-make it fit. I'm pretty happy with the way they turned out. For anyone following along I'll warn you, my photography skills are rudimentary at best and all I have is an iPhone. Maybe that's another area I can improve as the build progresses. Any and all comments and critique is welcome. v/r, Rob
  6. My kit arrived yesterday. I had already committed to working on a repair project at my church but I did have time to gaze lovingly at the contents and conduct an inventory. Everything was there and it looks (and smells) great. I hope to get started today after work. v/r, Rob
  7. It makes perfect sense Rusty. My idea was similar-to take a piece of 1/32" scrap attach it to something thicker/longer and set it against the keel as a gage to set the correct spacing. The 1/32" piece will set the rabbit and the thicker piece will rests against the keel. I hadn't thought of using rubber cement to hold it in place. I will probably make a couple and space them out. I need to find a piece of glass or marble as well. Thanks, Rob
  8. While waiting for my kit to arrive out here in the Pacific NW I've been reading Chucks build log and thinking about how I intend on assembling the keel. I am curious as to how you insure the keel has a 1/32" rabbit on each side (i.e. centering the four 3/32" pieces). I have some ideas but I'd like to hear what more experienced builders have to say.
  9. This group build seems to be a great way to build and learn. I've already (mentally) reserved a spot on the mantle for the finished product.
  10. Hi Mark, Thanks for sharing your technique. I'm a first time scratch-builder working on a Triton cross section. I've been using a disc sander as you describe to true the end joints. It is working but you really need a gentle touch and it takes several tries to get it right. I'm going to borrow your idea and use my table saw with sled. Sounds like a much better way to get the job done right. v/r, Rob
  11. Thanks Duff, I plan on picking some up in the next week or so at a nearby woodworking store. I appreciate the information v/r, Rob
  12. Hi Ken, I plan on painting the hull. I have also thought about replacing the deck with holly or maybe maple. We'll see. v/r, Rob
  13. It's been a few days since my last update. Life has intruded on the shipyard with visits from my mother-in-law and sister-in-law and various other distractions. I manage to get in a little time here and there - good thing I don't have a schedule to keep. I have no pictures. Maybe later this weekend I'll find time. Progress has been very slow. I continue to shape the stern and bow fillers, fair the hull and get the bulkhead tops sanded for the false deck. I've broken off several bulwark extensions and despite being very annoying they're not that hard to repair. I've taken much longer than I thought I would to get to this point but I think it's time well spent. I've been thinking as I sand away about single planking or double planking. Double planking can be more forgiving but I'm really drawn to the idea of single planking just for the challenge. I have a little more time to ponder that before I need to make a decision. Next update I'll include some pictures of the progress I've made. v/r, Rob

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