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DanielD

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    Washington State, US

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  1. Hello all, I’ve not posted in awhile as I’ve been working on the main mast. It’s taking a lot longer than I thought! There is so much to build, I had no idea. I’ve been using Lee’s book as my main reference, but also a big thanks to Keith and Keith S for their build logs to help me along the way. My mast is not nearly finished, but the main structure is set.
  2. The HMS Terror and Erebus each had on board two 6 pound signal cannons. Here is my attempt to pay homage to those cannons. They sure are tiny!
  3. Today in the shipyard I took on the task of the bowsprit. Using the dimensions from Lee’s book, this is what I came up with. And thanks Keith for your help setting me straight.
  4. Keith, thank you! I missed that detail. When I went back and looked, it was right there. Next question, I’m having trouble figuring out what is the overlap between the bowsprit and the jibboom. Part of my problem is that I don’t know the terminology, but I’m learning. Thanks for all your help! Update: I found the reference to the distance I’m looking for “one third the length of the jibboom from the cap.” My jibboom is 134mm, so I will install the saddle at 45mm from the cap. Problem solved!
  5. Keith and Keith, I started planning my bowsprit and jibboom, basing my information on Lee’s book. I am using the dimensions for the Frigate 10th Class. My first conundrum is the bowsprit per Lee’s book should be 29’ 0” (25.4mm*12”*29’/75scale=118mm); however, the kit plans lists 162mm as the length. This is a large discrepancy, 44mm! The jibboom however is right on, according to Lee, should be 33’ 0” (25.4mm*12”*33’/75scale=134mm) and the kit lists 130mm, just 4mm difference. So...build per Lee’s book? Other things to add/change 1) the heel of the jibboom is sq
  6. Keith, thanks for the kudos! I ordered a new bell from ageofsail.com (SHIPS BELL IN POLISHED BRASS (6MM, AM4140/06)). As far as reading glasses, they are a must!
  7. For a rare snow day in the great northwest, I found a little time to finish the deck works around the foremast.
  8. I would just have the two wires come down through the false keel, on the centerline of the ship, leave them dangle until the planking and sanding is finished. Then install the modified keel with the plates or easier yet, install a two brass display pillars to hook the wires to. Rather way, I’d do the planking and sanding first to get a good smooth hull finish. Need to be careful working around the wires, don’t want to nick or accidentally cut one off, but would be easier than trying to sand down the hull with the keel in place.
  9. I had this same idea, but I was already committed to my current design. You should be fine creating contacts like this to feed power into the ship. Go for it! I’ll follow along
  10. Today’s shipyard tales include finishing the forward hatch, installing a smoke stack, and finishing the forward windlass. It’s not bolted to the deck yet, but will be as soon as I have the rest of the hardware in place.
  11. I think I figured out where all 12 small boats were placed and leaves the davits at the stern free to work on the rudder and propeller. I will apologize in advance if I don’t have the correct terminology for all the locations 😃. Here we go, mid ship between the fore and main mast with another stacked on top (forward green <top> and yellow <bottom> boats in the image). On the timber frame between the main and mizzenmast another pair right side up <green> (as seen in Matthew Betts work), with another pair upside down on top of those <yellow>. That makes six. Then there ar
  12. Keith very nice work figuring this out! It makes so much more sense now... Now the quandary, do I build more small boats? With one hanging on the stern davits, one upright mid ship, one upside down on top of that, two on the stern racks above the capstan, two over the side on the davits near the stern, and now two over the side mid ship. Well, that accounts for nine of the 12. That’s progress! I like the small boats so I’m inclined to build them...gives some perspective how massive this expedition was.
  13. Keith, I took a newish square blade and ground it down to just 2mm wide. Then just cut square holes and popped out the plug. Worked well 99% of the time.
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