Shazmira

Journeyman???  I'm just a mere apprentice still. 
 
After singing a chorus of "Alice's Restaurant" yesterday and a Thanksgiving meal that couldn't be beat... I got to spend time in the shipyard.. yippiee.
 
I've cut, shaped, and installed two more timbers.  Seems that all the curved timbers from port to starboard have different curves and one is canted at about 45 degree angle from the waterline.  I'm not sure why.   The two finally fitted are for the upper and lower sills for the lights. The top sill timber is also the last deck beam for the quarterdeck.  The lower sill is hidden behind the planking.  
 
I still need to fair these two before I go much further.   There's two more sets of timbers, one is for the counter and the other is for the taffrail to sit on.
 
Anyway, here's the picture I took for my checking as the camera shows more than the human eye (to me anyway).  I'm pleased with these two timbers and well turn to on fairing them in and trimming down the lower sill timber.

 

Thanks for the likes and comments. 
 
Finally... happy dance time again.  At least a small one..
 
It took me several tries but the top transom is done and in place along with the stern timbers.   I used some pen blanks as I didn't have any stock of cherry, boxwood, or pear thick enough.  The final ended up in yellowheart.  Thankfully, it will hidden by the planking. 
 
I cut the curve (which doesn't quite match the deck camber per the plans) on the top and bottom.  Spot glued the waste back on and then the cut the curve of the stern.   A soak in alcohol and the piece emierged.   Notches were cut into the timber for the deadwood and frame timbers.  Everything was then finessed into postion per the plans.  The photos I contrast corrected helped a lot.  Then the stern timbers were cut and matched to size and finessed into position.   The further outboard the timbers go, the longer they get.     I've checked and rechecked as these two bits are critical to the stern being right. 
 
I still have a lot more work in this area, but at least I know I won't be scrapping this one out because the stern was a hopeless cause.  Just a small amount of fairing needs to be done before planking but I feel the rest of the framework should be added first to give it some strength.  Those timbers are bit fragile as they are now.
 
Here's the pics.   Sorry, I forgot to take pictures of the process.  As always, you click on them for enlargement.  
 

 

 
 

Thank heavens I started over..  this is coming out better than I thought.  I missed so much on the plans and pictures the last time stumbling though... 
 
I'm making templates of the transom timbers from the plans and using the cleaned up photos as a guide.  I think it's coming together much better.  Here's the first two timbers in place.  They're of the proper shape but not faired.  That will come when all of the stern is in place lest I screw it up. 
 

 
The next one, the top transom, is the challenge.  It has two curves (one vertically and one horizontally) to give the stern windows their curve but also the curve from side to side.   Plus... (added bonus for complexity) it has eight slots milled into it for the vertical timbers.  This should be frustrating and fun at the same time.  See the pic for the plan view of this timber.
 

 
Onward and upward....

Battle of the Stern - Opening Salvos
 
Reread the plans at least 10 times and compared them to the salvaged stern section from V 1.0...  realized I can do a lot better and also figured out where the errors crept in.  Then reviewed Hahn's article from the NRJ on her.  The pictures were unclear and perhaps I missed something first time through.  So... scanned the article and adjusted the pics... yep.  whiffed it.  Scan of a a scan of a printed magazine with retouched photos...  <hangs head since he knows better>
 
So, I started with some deconstruction by removing the stern post.  That done, took some basswood and worked on the filler piece.  The pics seem to show one curve (which I used for V 1.0) and plans show a different curve.  Originally, I figured Hahn found something and did the filler differently then the drawing and I followed that.  Wrong!!!!  It was the pic. I followed the drawing this time.  Much happier.
 
Also, worked on the first transom frame.  A lot happier even though it took the second try to get it right.  
 
These are "rough faired" for now.  I'll go back and finish shaping when the second transom is installed.
 

I have the gunports properly silled and sized (is silled a word?).  I've also hit her with another round of fairing and am almost comfortable with it but I'll hold off until the stern is built, checked, verified and approved as this was my Waterloo the last time.  Or maybe the wrong side of Trafalgar?   Hmm... 
 
Anyway, I've started measuring, scratching my head, and sorting out how I'm going to do this and get it right.  I'm thinking I'll have draw the transoms, make templates for starters.
 

 

Oh how time flies when we're having fun.....
 
Ok.. got the shop back into shipyard mode and I'm working on the gunports.   I have to thin the frames down some (to 1/16" at the ports) so that their wide enough... Done!!!!
 
I then have to put in the sills, paying particular attention to the location at each end of the each sill.  I still check each one.  So far, 6 have been done.   I also check each one with check tool made from some yellowheart.  Actually not made.  Turns out the pen blank I bought as a sample to see what yellowheart looked like was about 1/64" inch too big.  A quick bit of sanding and it's perfect for the job.
 
I'm scratching my head as Hahn made most of his ships in 1:96 and just a few in bigger scales.  How the heck did thin the frames for the ports or get the level of detail he got, I'll never know.
 
Anyway.. the pic.  And like the rest of us, right now I'm hating the macro setting.       
 

Thank you for all the "likes" and comments. 
 
Hawse timbers... version 4.5 (1 side was replaced once, the other twice).   The hard part (to me) is that lines drawing give no shape to the bow forward of the first cant fram so I'm fumbling with templates and photos.  I think I'm close.  I've filled in most of the low spots and sanded down the highs.  Cherry has this nice feature  that if it ages a bit and darkens, when you sand it the sanded parts become light. This, coupled with a batten and templates gives you a pretty good idea of where one stands in the fairing.
 
They still need more fairing but I need to hold off a bit.  Frankly, I'm getting tired of the sawdust in the air at the moment.     The reality is, I need to put in the gunport sills and fair those in.  And then the interior.  The deck clamp "knees" (actualy just nubs of wood) need to be worked such to give a smooth sheer to the clamps.  I'll have to hold on the clamps though, until the stern is finished.
 
Yes, I'm avoiding the stern like the plague.  Hahn doesn't give you a template on the plans for the transoms so I'm sorting this out.  I have the stern framing showing height and width of the timbers, the side showing the location and depth but no top view showing the shape.  Again, much staring at the prints and Hahn's limited build photos.  This seems to be one of those areas that are "up to the builder" to sort out like the quarter galleries.   Speaking of which I'm also sorting out that area as it's not really defined on the prints as to timbers.  However, I'm putting together a plan, which if it works I'll happy dancing for weeks.
 
So... to the pictures.  The first three show the hawse timbers and cant frames.  None of this will be visible when planked.  The last is kinda' artsy-craftsy looking at the interior so I can get an idea of amount of fairing in there to be done.
 




 
 
As always, feel free to click on any picture to enlarge it to full size.  Oh.. sorry for the sawdust and debris.  I really need to hit this with the shop vac.

Yeah for me...after 11 days and 3 tries, the hawse timbers are cut, assembled, shaped, and installed.  They still need lots of sanding but it's best (from my point of view) to blend into the framing plus there's an inside curve down down low that becomes the outside curve as it rises.  I'm thinking it's best to try it this way.
 
There's also still a ton of fairing to do and I want that done and out of the way before attacking the stern.   So the next update my be awhile. 
 
I'm debating whether to drill out the hawse ports or put in the plugs and leave the anchors unrigged.  My reasoning is that I'm considering full rigging and sails for this one.
 

Slowly trucking right along.... fore cant frames are in and need fairing.  A lot of fairing but that's what I planned.  I'm working on cutting out and fitting the hawse timbers as this is being written.
 
Much research still going in in the background.  Probably more research than work right now...     I fully believe that Mr. Delacroix is spot on about using the Belle Poule monograph for details and rigging which is not what Hahn used.  Hahn used Le Venus which is too late in the period and things were done differently in the planking, rigging, and details area.  Le Renommee is too early with the wales, quarter galleries and stern areas as well some minor details.
 
I fully suspect that Licorne was built originally along the lines of Le Renommee per the bow, stern, wales and gallery drawings I've seen but that there was a major rebuild somewhere before she was captured as she has much of the Belle Poule features.  I'm still sorting out the odd yard dimensions which match Le Venus but not Belle Poule.  Again, this may have been part the transition period so the rigging will probably be the spar and yard dimensions per the NMM (as captured) but use the Belle Poule rigging plan as that seems more appropriate for the time frame.  I still have a long way to go before I even think about rigging, but its something that needs to be sorted out for the hull sheave placement.
 
My plan, subject to change,  is to carry on and once the hull is framed and faired, plank the exterior per the NMM/Hahn drawings with mods from Belle Poule. 
 
By all means, feel free to click the pic for a larger view.  Critiques (negative, corrective, etc.) are always welcome as I'm still trying to get a handle on this beast.
 

Minor milepost... aft half-frames are installed.  I need to trim a bit and then rough fair them before moving to fore half-frames.
 
 

Minor step but for me a scary one.   Rather than put off drilling holes for the mounting bolts and pedestals, I chose to grab the beast by the horns and go for it now.  That way if something went really amiss, it would be fixable.
 
So, I set the ship under the riser on the workbench, grabbed my Dremel drill press and proceed to cobble a way.  I rotated it around, clamped and screwed it to the riser. It took a good 10 minutes of fiddling to get everything centered up and squared away.  After inserted a very small bit, I held my breath and drilled.  And it worked like a charm.  I turned the ship around and repeated for the forward hole.   Took a picture for posterity's sake. 
 
The pedestals fit nicely and the screw didn't do any damage. 
 

I decided I needed a break from half-frames.  So for a few days I've been doing some prosthetic work on my Admiral's fake leg.  So far, I haven't screwed it up even though I'm hitting it with a heat gun,  dremel and cut off wheel, and tolulene.
 
As time permits, I cleaned up the salvaged keelson along with the salvaged fore and main mast steps.  The keelson is now glued into position after tweaking the fit and the mast steps are fitted but not glued.  There's markings inside for re-fitting them into position and also marked up the exterior for drilling and fitting the pedestals.    As soon as I can figure out a way to drill them square in all dimensions (not a square hole but exactly perpendicular) I'll do it.  This beast is too big for the drill press or the mill... <sigh> 
 
Also, minimal fairing at this point on the inside of the hull.
 
Anyway... picture.  And as always, errors, omissions, and stupid mistakes, while not always intentional are subject to be commented upon by those who read this.
 

Thanks for the comments and likes - good to know people have not given up on me yet!!
 
Brian, I have turned several barrel shaped posts to support her out of the same wood. they are slightly different heights; they vary by about 6mm/1/4 inch. My plan is to set the stern just slightly lower then the bow to give an impression of motion. I had considered giving her a slight lean also since I plan on rigging her in a tack but I am not sure I can support her properly at this point. I should have inserted some threaded inserts before I started the planking. Next build....
 
Carl, when to stop and haw to complete something has been a challenge all my life.
 
Mark, even small steps are good.
 
Now its back to work and full speed ahead. we have two more weeks of long hours and then a break, although we were contacted Friday by a potentially new client to do some work for an attraction opening this May. That has the potential of turning into another race to the finish.
 
Sam

Well Crap! Here I thought I had a good idea...another "DOH" moment I guess. But thanks guys for pointing out the 2D would not transfer correctly to 3D. Guess I will just have to wait for my new Pounce wheels to come in, and start this process again. Really wish just once, I could get a new technique down correctly on the first try instead of tearing things out and repeating, 3 or 4 times until I get it where I can live with it. I know, I know, practice makes perfect right. Problem is my build time is so very limited right now, it is just frustrating as hell to make no progress whatsoever in 3 weeks of trying! 

I thought re-do's were part of modelshipbuilding?  Like sort of mandatory..        I feel your pain and understand it, though.  

Robbyn, I wish I could help you with the copper but I havent done any coppering yet. I feel your pain with minimal build time, other than a couple of hours last Saturday I have barely touched my build since early December.
Hang in there you'll get it in the end, I dont know about you but I have a greater sense of accomplishment when I finish something I worked really hard to complete/master vs something that just fell together. Like Grant said "We are all a patient bunch here." Besides, this is fun remember?
Sam

Just think of it as getting to enjoy the process 3 or 4 times Robbyn - not nearly as frustrating that way. And remember, it's not a race and we're a pretty patient bunch of spectators.

Shaz
sorry but I forgot a small but significant detail: French and British/US navies had different techniques to lay the copper tiles rows ... be careful to use the correct one!
Bye
Fam

Well Crap! Here I thought I had a good idea...another "DOH" moment I guess. But thanks guys for pointing out the 2D would not transfer correctly to 3D. Guess I will just have to wait for my new Pounce wheels to come in, and start this process again. Really wish just once, I could get a new technique down correctly on the first try instead of tearing things out and repeating, 3 or 4 times until I get it where I can live with it. I know, I know, practice makes perfect right. Problem is my build time is so very limited right now, it is just frustrating as hell to make no progress whatsoever in 3 weeks of trying! 

Perfect Fam, that was showing me better how to get the flat retangular plates to follow the curvature. Much clearer now, thank you!

Well Crap! Here I thought I had a good idea...another "DOH" moment I guess. But thanks guys for pointing out the 2D would not transfer correctly to 3D. Guess I will just have to wait for my new Pounce wheels to come in, and start this process again. Really wish just once, I could get a new technique down correctly on the first try instead of tearing things out and repeating, 3 or 4 times until I get it where I can live with it. I know, I know, practice makes perfect right. Problem is my build time is so very limited right now, it is just frustrating as hell to make no progress whatsoever in 3 weeks of trying! 

So since I have this full sized coppering plan, I was thinking I could make copies and use it as a template. I could then cut my strips of copper to fit each of the rows shown on the plan, even those which narrow down to a point. Would this be a more accurate way to place the copper?

So since I have this full sized coppering plan, I was thinking I could make copies and use it as a template. I could then cut my strips of copper to fit each of the rows shown on the plan, even those which narrow down to a point. Would this be a more accurate way to place the copper?

So since I have this full sized coppering plan, I was thinking I could make copies and use it as a template. I could then cut my strips of copper to fit each of the rows shown on the plan, even those which narrow down to a point. Would this be a more accurate way to place the copper?

So since I have this full sized coppering plan, I was thinking I could make copies and use it as a template. I could then cut my strips of copper to fit each of the rows shown on the plan, even those which narrow down to a point. Would this be a more accurate way to place the copper?