Capt.Bob

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 186 – Cheeks/Hounds and Bibbs
 
I mentioned in the last post that I was replacing the first main mast that was shown in some earlier photos.  Here is the replacement ready for banding.
 

 
The first mainmast was developmental as far as method is concerned, the second my main process example photo subject, and the mizzen will be the final proof of practice.  In the meantime I have been pushing ahead with the foremast in the hope that it will measure up and be usable.  If not I'll have another practice subject.
 
With the foremast fully banded, other features are being added.  The terms "hounds" and "cheeks" seem to be used interchangeably in my sources to describe the squared sections that supported the cross trees of the top.  The bibbs are the forward extensions of these, knees if you will, that support the forward end of the top.  The first picture shows these installed on the foremast, before describing the steps. 
 

 
The supporting upper surface will be angled and flattened later to support the top in a horizontal position on the raked mast.
 
If my simplified five piece model design for a made mast had its benefits, the price for that was paid in the shaping of the hound pieces.  In practice these were fayed usually against flats on the central spindle and extended above the hounds as part of the mast head, or doubling.  Since my spindle was made the size of the head and the mast below shaped round, the side hounds had to be fitted to the round tapered mast.  The two pieces are shown below during fitting.
 

 
To make these, a hole was bored through a block of wood that was then tapered around the bore and separated into two pieces.  The bores were then enlarged by filing/sanding to match the taper of the round mast.  In the next picture these are being glued to the mast.
 

 
The next picture shows the port bibb installed and the joint for the other being pared.
 

 
Both joints were cut first on the hounds and the bibbs cut to fit, with some adjustments to the hounds during the process as shown.  The next picture shows that bib being glued
 

 
After gluing, the sides were filed flat and the bolts added.  There are three through the edges of each bibb and eight securing the hounds to the mast.  These are black monofilament secured with CA.
 
Bands are sometimes shown around the lower end of the hounds.  I don't see how heat shrunk bands could possibly have been fitted with the hounds in place or what purpose they would serve vs. bolts.  I suppose shaped bands could be slid on before the hounds were installed then driven up over the bottom ends.  On the other hand, such bands under the hounds could be fitted and of benefit.  I'll save this question for the next model.
 
Next, the chafing battens.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 185 – Iron Mast Bands 2
 
In addition to the shrunk-on hoops that reinforced the masts, there were bands for other purposes.  On the lower masts these included bands with eyebolts to secure rigging, bands to secure the spencer gaffs and bands that supported the lower yard trusses.  These other bands were generally clamped on the mast rather than heat shrunk.  I experimented with two different methods for making these.  The first picture shows a clamp band bent around the mast ( actually the mandrel) to be soldered in one piece.
 

 
The next picture shows a band made like the reinforcing bands to which parts will be soldered to form the clamp joint and in this case the bracket for the yard truss.
 

 
This band is made from thicker material.   The tabs on the truss bracket in the lower part of the picture were bent around some band stock to size the gap.  The bracket was then hammered square before soldering.   In the next picture the truss band has been soldered together and a wire bolt added at the clamp joint.
 

 
In the picture the band is pushed on to the mandrel for finish filing and polishing.  The next picture shows the special bands on the foremast.  These are the three at the top.
 

 
At the top is the truss band – blackened.  More on that below.  Below that is the band that supports the fore spencer gaff.  The eyebolt on the aft side of this is not visible in the picture.  Next is the futtock band with six eyebolts for the lower futtocks and one on the aft face to secure a block for another line, I believe one of the main staysail's downhaul.  The bands below these are the normal reinforcing bands.  The joints that show on these will be covered by the forward chafing batten.  The next picture is another view.
 

 
In this picture the horizontal eye for the spencer gaff is visible in the band below the truss.  The pattern of the eyebolts on the futtock band and the chafing batten may be seen in the drawing.
 
The last picture shows the fore mast with all its iron bands installed.
 

 
Some bands are blackened on this mast and others not.  The plan going forward is to defer all blackening until all other work on the mast is complete – hounds, bibbs, battens, cap tenon, yard sling eyebolt, etc.  Blackening just before installing the mast will reduce handling of the blackened parts and the resultant rubbing off of the black.  It will also help keep the wood surface of the mast clean of black.  These were problems on the first main mast.  A replacement is in progress.
 
 
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 184 – Iron Mast Bands
 
Iron hoops, or bands were used to hold made mast sticks together and to reinforce single tree masts.  These were 4" wide and ½" thick and were spaced about 36" apart.  Circumference of the mast at the band location was measured and a ring of that diameter was forged.  To install on the mast the band was heated, slipped on by the smaller end and driven into place.  It was then quenched with water to create a tight shrink fit before it had a chance to char the mast.
 
The bands on the model are copper, made from .010" sheet stock sliced into 4" strips.  Once the bands are sized and silver-soldered, the main issues become fixing them in position on the mast and blackening them without getting visible black smudges on the mast.  The solution (no pun intended) I adopted was shellac – to be explained below.
 
First, a look at the (almost) final product.  In the first picture the main mast is fully hooped and the fore mast is in progress.
 
 

 
There are a few special bands on the main mast – to be described later. Also, on that mast, with the bands complete, the hounds are being fitted.  This cannot be done until the bands above main deck partners are slipped over the top.  The housing bands – below the deck – are slipped on from the bottom.
 
When the masts were made, I also shaped two mandrels to aid in making the bands, one the shape of the fore mast and one smaller.  These are shown in the next picture with main and fore masts in progress.
 

 
Except for overall length and housing length, the main and fore masts are virtually identical in their diameters.  The mandrels have pin holes drilled along their length for use as shown below.
 

 
In the picture a strip has been drilled on one end, pinned to the mandrel at the desired diameter, wrapped tightly with the copper strip, and then clamped in the vise.  The hammer and razor blade in the picture were used to cut squarely through the strip, yielding open rings as shown below.
 

 
I won't go through complete detail for sizing the rings, except to say that they were trimmed before soldering to yield a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of their position on the mast.  In the next picture a soldered ring has been fitted over the mandrel for filing and polishing.
 

 
In the next picture a ring is being pushed into its position in small, even steps using a piece of hard wood.
 

 
By the time it gets to where it belongs it will have been stretched and will be fairly tight on the mast. 
 
Before banding, the mast was given a coating of thinned, clear shellac for two reasons: 1) the shellac will act as a sealer and prevent excess blackening from staining the open wood grain, and 2) because the shellac is soluble in methanol, wetting under the ring with that solvent – as shown in the next picture – will dissolve the shellac and when dry it will contribute to the bond under the ring.   With few exceptions the rings were practically immovable after this step.
 

 
The copper rings were then blackened using liver of sulfur solution.  Best results were obtained by applying the LOS by rubbing with a cotton swab followed by an immediate and thorough rinse under a faucet to wash away excess black.  The method is still something of a work in process that will hopefully be fully developed for Volume III.
 
The "special" bands mentioned above – the futtock band and the lower yard truss band will be described in the next part.
 
Ed
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 183 – New Home Port 1
 
With the prospect of rigging work looming, it was time to think about a new birth for the Young America model – a new "home port."  Two requirements: 1) dust protection, an enclosure that would keep dust off the model and also provide necessary access for the work.  2) a larger shipway, large enough to provide a base for the dust enclosure.
 
The design for this is very similar to the enclosure I built for the Victory model, but larger.  In that earlier box I used foam board to enclose the sides. This is larger than the standard sizes and also I wanted the inside corners to be more seamless to provide a good photographic background for the many close up pictures that I expect to take during the work.  I am determined to build this entirely from scrap material of which I have a supply that needs to be consumed.
 
The first picture shows the new shipway.
 

 
The base is a disused, laminate coated, particle board kitchen panel painted with gloss white enamel. It is 61" long and 19" wide.  The width will allow the main yard to be squared with its retracted studding sail booms.  The length will accommodate the flying jibboom and the mizzen booms.  One of the hull drawings has been pasted to this and in the picture the board is being framed with pine sides.  These will keep the underside raised enough to allow the mounting bolts and also provide support for the upper parts of the case. 
 
The first work on ends is shown below.  Pieces for the 42" high end frames are ready for assembly.
 

 
In the next picture the lap joints of the end frames are being glued.
 

 
In the next picture the model is being mounted on the new shipway.
 

 
The copper wire strut is being used to very gently bring the hull into alignment using the square and triangle as guides.  The three mounting bolts and single blocks screwed into the base on each side hold the hull securely in this position.
 
The last picture shows the two assembled end frames and the top.  The top frame encloses a sheet of Plexiglas® that will allow overhead lights to illuminate the model.  The top has screwed corner gussets for additional rigidity and strength.  The 3/16" acrylic sheet is heavy.
 

 
The pieces shown may be assembled once the end panels are papered.  The side panels will then be made.  They will be easily removable without tools.  The ends and top may also be removed with a screwdriver.
 
Banding of the masts has been proceeding and will be the subject of the next part, but I wanted to interject this first work onn the case since it will begin to appear in pictures.
 
Ed
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 182 – Made Masts
 
At 36" in diameter, there is little doubt that Young America's fore and main lower masts were built up of multiple pieces – so called "made masts".  Beyond that, the details of their construction is speculative.  Masts were made in a variety of ways – probably dependent on the mast maker's methods and certainly on the available timber.  Most made mast construction featured a central core, a "spindle" that may have been of one or multiple pieces.  Attached to the sides of this were "side trees" over the lower to upper mid-length with additional side "cheeks" up to the "stop" at the top of the square "hounds" that supported the top.  These might be integral with the cheeks or separate pieces.  Timber pieces that filled out the fore and aft faces, "fish" completed the typical body of the mast.  Often, each of these pieces consisted of multiple members.  All these pieces were fitted together with a variety of hidden mortises and the pieces were often made as long scarphs.  I had no intention of trying to duplicate these complex assemblies, especially without knowledge of the actual original masts.  I chose a simpler design for the model fore and main masts that consists of a single spindle squared over the full length of the mast to the dimension of the doubling – the square section above the stop.  Two side cheeks and two fish over the full rounded length were used to fill out the size of the squared mast that was then shaped as described in the last part. 
 
The first picture shows the five parts of the lower foremast.
 

 
The next picture shows the first two sides glued to the spindle.
 

 
Dark glue was used to yield a subtle joint line.  These first pieces were cut just larger than the spindle so they could be scraped flush to provide a flat surface for the remaining parts.  The scraper blade in the upper corner of the picture was used for this step.  In the next picture the assembled stick has been marked at the quarters and on the centerline.  The dividers are being used to mark the breadths at each point.
 

 
In the next picture two sides are being sanded to the line – the so-called second trim.
 

 
After marking these sanded sides, shaping them as above in the third trim, and then marking the apices of the octagon, the corners were removed.  The first step, planing, is shown below.
 

 
After forming the regular octagon, the mast was rounded using the tools shown in the next picture – a rasp, a medium flat file, and a medium-fine barrette..
 

 
The lower end of the mast is shown in this picture.  It will be cut off and the step tenon formed by filing down the square spindle to the size of the step mortise.
 
The three bare lower masts are shown positioned on the steps in the last picture.
 

 
The next step on all these spars, bowsprit and masts, is the iron banding.  These round hoops must be fitted over the masts before the installation of the hounds.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 181 – Mizzen Mast
 
First, a word on the drawings made and used for all the spars.  The lengths were based on the original builders sail plan and a spar list published at the time with a few exceptions to be described later.  The diameters and other proportions were based on standard, documented practice at the time.
 
At 78' long X 29" diameter, the lower mizzen mast was near the borderline at the time between masts made from a single tree and those built up from smaller sticks – the so-called "made masts."  Longleaf pine, 3 to 5 feet in diameter and 80' to 100' feet long were available but easy to reach trees of this size were depleted by this time, requiring more effort to haul them out of the forest.  Most likely YA's lower mizzen was a made mast.  Because I wanted to describe both single tree and made mast modeling in a future book, I made this mast from a single stick.  Subject to further research, I may band this mast as would be done on a made mast.  So, making this single stick mast is described here before going on to the two other made masts.
 
Although the trimming to size of the masthead "doubling" was normally done in the second and third trimmings, I did it right after squaring the stick to the full diameter, the first trim.  Apart from the build up, this sizing method is the primary difference between the modeling of single stick and made masts.  By milling the head, as shown in the first picture, I could be sure the mast would be straight over its full length and that the doubling would be square and true.
 

 
In the next picture the centerlines are being drawn on the squared stick.
 

 
With the quarters marked, the breadths at each were then marked out from the centerline with dividers as shown below.
 

 
The indentation of the divider point was the only mark made – no lines.  The next two trimmings were done to these marks on the disk sander in two separate trimmings as described in the last part (Part 180) on the bowsprit.  In the following picture the trimmed breadths at each point are being checked with calipers on all four faces.
 

 
Adjustments were then made to bring the breadths close to the final size by filing and/or scraping.  This was the critical step in final sizing of the mast profile. 
 
To lay out the lines for the octagonal shaping, the tool described in the last post was used.  It seems easier to use by clamping it in the vise and drawing the stick over it.
 

 
In the next picture the octagon sides are being planed flat almost down to the scribed lines.
 

 
I have small model planes, but the Stanley 92 is so precise that I normally use it wherever there is room.  The octagon was finished to size, measured and adjusted, then given the fifth trimming – rounding – using files.  In the next picture the rounding is being checked using the circle template.
 

 
High spots are readily found by this method, filed down and rechecked.  The finished stick is shown in the next picture.
 

 
The step tenon was cut by trial and error until it fit neatly into the step mortise.  The mastheads are chamfered to the diameter at the hounds.  This is necessary not only for the usual safety reasons, but more importantly, so that the mast bands will pass over it.  For the same reason, the squared hounds below the masthead cannot be installed until the bands are fitted. 
 
The next picture shows the mast slipped temporarily in place. 
 

 
The main deck opening will later be enlarged, the rake set, and the mast wedged in place.
 
 
Ed

Thanks for these additional comments and likes.
 
Druxey, I think your comments on error reflect what I said initially about error increasing at smaller sizes - because the smaller size increases the angle of the spar in the device and thus, as you said, the error.  Just to elaborate - at the risk of getting crazy with this.  I saw two theoretical sources of error (excludes operator error): 1) the diameter of the guide rods, 2) to a much lesser extent, fact that the rods bear on the spar above and below the point marked - not right at that point.
 
Before making the device I was concerned about the guide rod diameter, so I made some calculations:  With .032" guide rods and assuming 100% accuracy at 90 deg to the line of the guides: at 45 deg the 7/24 portion is 2.6% under (.003" @ 1:72), at 30 deg the portion is 3.2% under (.0024" @ 1:72). Note that % increases but actual measure decreases.   An angle of 30 deg corresponds to a spar of 50% of the markers maximum - about 1/4" actual.
 
I believe item 2 can be safely ignored.
 
So, I concluded the precision was adequate and went ahead and made the device.  I would not, as you say, want to use this at angles less than 30 degrees - or much below 45 for that matter.
 
So, a simple device is not so simple.
 
Ed

Thank you Maury and Gianpierro, and also for the likes on the last post.
 
Maury, the marking tool is simple to make, but to use it takes some getting used to - and maybe there should be a version 2 that is more ready for prime time.  But the idea seemed worth pursuing and it actually produced good results.  The line is good for the initial trimming but is then refined by measurements around the octagon at each point.  The key when scribing is to keep both guide rods engaged to the side of the piece as the breadth changes.  Starting at the small end seems to help.
 
The marker is simply a piece of 1/8" square brass drilled with three tight holes for hard, spring steel wire/rod - or nails?.  The center pin is sharpened, is shorter the the guides at the ends, and is centered 7/24 of the distance from the inside of one guide to the inside of the other - not the centers.  7/24 is an approximation (7-10-7), a rule of thumb used by mastmakers.  The spacing of the three holes was calculated and spaced for drilling by the mill calibration wheel.  The guide spacing should be larger than the maximum spar breadth.  Although it will work for smaller spars, the error increases as the spar size decreases, so a smaller one may be needed - but may be impractical to use.  I will see how it works on the topmasts.  Error also increases with the diameter of the guide rods.  A filed point on each side may be better.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 180 – Bowsprit
 
So, after three years and179 parts to this build log it is finally time to get off the deck.  Making the largest spars – lower masts and bowsprit – is the first order of business.
 
In shaping all the spars for the model, I expect to generally follow the methods used by the original spar makers – except of course for the tools.  I expect to take some liberties with the made masts, but that will be covered later.  There are many steps involved in getting from a model "tree" to a finished spar.  I do not intend to cover them in detail here, but merely to provide an overview.  Even at that, this posting on the bowsprit has nine pictures and a fair amount of text.
 
I started with the bowsprit as perhaps the simplest of the large spars.  At 47' long and 36" maximum diameter it was undoubtedly made from a single tree – probably of long leaf (yellow) pine.  The first picture shows the spar after the "first trimming" – the point at which the tree has been squared to the spars maximum diameter and cut roughly to length.
 

 
The piece has been marked on all four faces at the ends and at the four "quarters" forward of the "partners" – that is in this case, the knightheads.  The square section inside the knightheads has been marked.  Centerlines have been drawn on all four faces.
 
In the next picture the breadths at each quarter and the ends are being marked on one face only with dividers set from the drawing.
 

 
In the next picture the "second trimming" is being made on the disk sander. 
 

 
Two opposite faces are being trimmed back to the measurements made above.  This tool helps keep the cuts perpendicular and fair.  The next picture shows the spar after the second trim.  It shows the tapers at the ends on two opposing sides only. 
 

 
These cuts were made just slightly full so they could be safely finished to the final dimensions in later steps.  The calipers and the calculator are key tools for this.  The converted dimensions may be seen in pencil on the drawing.  In the picture the trimmed faces have been marked with centerlines and quarter marks.  The breadths at each point were then marked on the trimmed faces, so the "third trimming" could be made on the remaining two sides – also on the disk sander as before.  The bowsprit after the third trim is shown fitted part way in position between the knightheads.
 

 
The next step – the fourth trimming – converts the still square areas (except at the partners) to an intermediate octagonal shape.  The trimming is done by hand – planes, rasps, files, scraper plate.  To provide some rough guide lines for that work, the tool shown below was useful.
 

 
The apices of an octagon are 7/24 of the diameter in from the sides of the square at each point along the curve.  The tool shown has a scriber point at 7/24 distance from one of two end guides.  By angling the tool as it is drawn along the spar, a 7/24 line is scribed.  This takes some practice and is a rough measure – but a very helpful one.  With lines marked on each face of the square section, the octagonal flats were cut and the spar trimmed as shown below.   
 

 
A lot of caliper measurements and fine trimmings are required to get the spar to this point.  The diameters of all the faces at each point are measured and trimmed to size.   The final, "fifth trimming" is being made below.
 

 
The apices are being filed off and the spar rounded.  Again the diameters at each mark are checked.  Roundness along the spar was checked using a draftsman's circle template to spot high areas.  The last picture shows the bowsprit fitted temporarily with its tenon seated in the step above the main deck.
 

 
In the picture the bowsprit has been sanded but not polished and the tenon for the cap is not yet cut.
 
Ed
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 178 – Stream Anchor
 
Ships like Young America carried several anchors.  The two bower anchors for the model were covered in an earlier post.  One stream anchor, one-third the size of the bowers was also modeled.  These anchors were used for warping or sometimes for short mooring in very calm waters and winds.  Obviously these would be much easier to handle than the large heavy bowers.  There were other smaller types but I settled on just the three.
 
The stream anchor was cut in one piece from a .032" thick plate of hard brass.  The outline was drawn on a blackened portion of the plate and cut with a jewelers saw as shown below.
 

 
The larger anchors were made in two pieces and soldered to save material and for the straightness of the bar shank, but with the smaller anchor this method made sense.  The next picture shows the anchor and two oversized flukes cut from a thinner sheet.
 

 
These were oversized realizing the clamping for soldering would not be precise.  They would be filed to the final size after soldering.  The soldering set upis shown below.
 

 
The next picture shows the fabricated anchor.
 

 
The stock and the shackle on this anchor are soldered on.  The last picture shows the anchor being secured on the starboard side in the vacated space used by the suspended bower anchor.  With all anchors stored, this small anchor would probably have been lashed to the shank of one of the bowers.
 

 
Next chore:  Making and fitting the supports for the swinging booms, that is, the fore lower studding sail booms.
 
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 177 – Mounting Bower Anchors
 
The plan has been to suspend the wood stocked bower anchor from the starboard cathead as depicted in the picture of the ship docked at San Francisco.  The iron stock anchor is to be placed in its storage position on the port side of the forecastle.   The first picture shows mounting chocks and two securing eyebolts for anchor storage.
 

 
The next picture shows the iron-stocked bower anchor in position, secured by a rope lashing to eyebolts on the margin plank.
 

 
The positioning and means of securing the anchors is somewhat speculative, but typical.  In the next picture, eyebolts have been installed below the arms and a lashing is being touched with thinned white glue to secure the seizing.
 

 
In the next picture, the starboard anchor has been suspended from the trip chain on the cathead. 
 

 
The cable chain is also threaded on to the shackle.  This shackle has a threaded bolt which will be trimmed to size later.  A hooked brass rod can be seen inserted from above the windlass through the hawse hole to fish the chain under the forecastle.
 
The next picture shows the chain pulled through over the top of the windlass.
 

 
The string shown in the picture has been threaded over the windlass so the chain can be taken over for another turn.  In the next picture the chain has been wound over the windlass and dropped through the chain tube to the hold.
 

 
The last picture shows the suspended anchor ready for release.  The shackle bolt remains untrimmed at this stage.
 

 
The next step will be to make and install the smaller stream anchor.
 
 
 
Ed

Thank you all.  Good advice, Maury - climate permitting of course.
 
Rob, everything after Volume I before starting masts and rigging will be included in Volume II - with of, course, all the drawings for that work.  Only a few tasks now remain to get to that point.  Stream anchor, mounting the anchors and chain, swinging boom brackets are about it.   If you have Vol I you will be aware that the level of descriptions in the book are far more complete than the overviews given here in the build log.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 176 – Whisker Booms
 
After a couple weeks on my favorite beach – one passed by Young America on her last fateful voyage – I have now returned refreshed and ready for the fall modeling campaign.  The whisker booms were completed just before we left.
 
Whisker booms were iron extensions to the catheads that served as spreaders for the chain jibboom and flying jibboom guys.  The first picture shows the installation of these fragile-looking members.
 

 
The whiskers extend about 5 feet from the ends of the catheads and are bolted to the after sides.  Each has formed cleats on the top face through which will pass the chain guys.
 
The whisker booms were made from hard brass plate and were shaped by hand methods – sawing and filing.  In the next picture a jeweler's saw with a fairly wide blade is being used to cut the inner line of the end cleat on the pair of booms.
 

 
Apart from these initial cuts, each boom was shaped individually.  The next picture shows one finished boom and one in progress.
 

 
To be sure these would smoothly pass the chain guys they were tested as shown below with some of the correct-size chain.
 

 
In the next picture the port boom is held in place with a clamp while the run of the chain guy is being checked. 
 

 
The guys will obviously be installed later when the bowsprit is installed and rigged.  The next picture shows the port boom temporarily bolted to the cathead.
 

 
The bolts were silver-soldered into the booms before blackening, then rounded off and cut to length.  The bolts were then CA glued into drilled holes in the cathead.
 
The last picture shows the finished boom on the port side.
 

 
 
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 175 – Shackles
 
Since I will be away for the next couple weeks, I thought I would cram in one more post before leaving – especially since it relates closely to the last post. 
 
There will be many shackles like those described below in Young America's rigging – 3 dozen or more on the deck and hull, plus many more aloft on yard bands, connecting chains and wire to rope, etc.
 
Shackles consist of  U-shaped iron yokes with screwed bolts threaded into the ends.  They replaced ring bolts, seized lashings and other connectors.  Easy removal of the screwed bolt allowed connections and disconnections to be made easily.  Several shackled eyebolts are shown below.
 

 
These will eventually be installed in the deck, rails, or hull by the method described in the last part – but not until later after the lines have been spliced on at the workbench.  The next picture shows the two parts of a shackle about to be silver-soldered.
 

 
The two pieces are 24 gauge copper wire – same gauge as the eyebolt.  Copper-phosphorus paste has been applied at the joints.  The configuration of the pieces is intended to simulate the horseshoe shape with a straight bolt at the bottom.  The picture also shows an eyebolt embedded in the soldering block ready for attachment of its shackle – not the one shown.  The next picture shows the soldered shackle before trimming the bolt ends.
 

 
There will be relatively few of these standalone shackles, so this was for demo only.  The next picture (apologies for bad focus) shows the soldering setup for an eyebolt-attached shackle.
 

 
The embedded eyebolt must be kept clear of the solder paste so the parts will swing freely.  After soldering, the shackle must be rotated so its bolt passes through the eyebolt allowing the rope or other line to connect to the horseshoe loop. This rotation has been done on the pieces in the last picture.
 

 
The loops on these shackles at 1:72 are about 6" (.08" actual) diameter.
 
Next topic: Whisker booms.
 
 
Ed
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 174 – Eyebolts
 
There are about 5 dozen eyebolts to be mounted on the deck and rails.  These are eyebolts to which rigging lines, mostly for tackles, will be secured by hooks.  There are another 3 dozen or so to which lines or chain will be shackled.  Since the shackles will be non-working, these latter eyebolts may not be permanently fixed until the lines are attached, mostly by splices and thimbles, block straps, seized ends or chain links.  Making these connections in place is not an option for me so the connections will be made before the shackle eyebolts are fitted.  The unshackled eyebolts, however, may be installed at this time.  The rigging drawings necessary to place these are complete.
 
I made the 60 eyebolts in about an hour by the method shown below.  They were made by spinning 26 gauge copper wire.  The eyes are about 5" O.D.  The first picture shows the tools and raw material.
 

 
The hand drill is fitted with a hook made from a pleating pin.  A slightly larger diameter hook is also shown and was used for the shackled eyebolts that will be described in a later post.  For convenience I used the Unimat® vise set up as shown.   A short piece of wire is bent and the ends secured in the vise.  The next picture shows an eyebolt being spun.
 

 
The amount of spinning becomes a matter of judgement.  The next picture shows two sizes of eyebolt.
 

 
The smaller size to the left was made from 26 gauge wire.  All of the deck and rail mounted eyebolts are 24 gauge, 5" O.D.  The next picture shows these blackened using liver of sulfur.
 

 
The bolts all have the same diameter shafts, with some variation in O.D.  However, all these were deemed acceptable for use.  The O.D. at 1:72 scale is about .07".
 
Holes were drilled for a slip fit with some friction.  After drilling the eyebolt was dipped in medium viscosity CA and pushed into the hole with pliers.  The next picture shows four of these around the fore mast.
 

 
There is, of course, a slight twist to eyebolts made by this method, but at this scale I felt it was acceptable.  Apart from the ease of making these, they also have advantage of eye strength without soldering, and gripping strength in the holes.
 
The next picture shows some of these in the main rails, in the outer binding strakes, and around the mizzen mast.
 

 
There are also several bolted through the channels and several around the poop rail and outer deck strakes.  There are a few on the exterior of the hull but most of those will have shackles attached.
 
Another pre-rigging chore completed.
 
Ed

Seriously guys, does anyone keep their shop that clean??  Very nice full view.  I was going to ask you about the wax finish and bonding.  I have been using a 1/2 lb cut of Tiger Flake shellac on the fore/aft surfaces of the timbers prior to installation.  A single coat seals the grain without build up.
 
Do you have any idea when Vol. II will be available?  I'm ready to send my check.
 
Bpb

Thanks, Guys.  It was a rare moment in the shop.
 
Bob, shellac is a good sealer and a good primer for just about any non-penetrating finish - paint varnish, acrylics, etc..  It can also be sanded and polished and will always be dissolvable in alcohol.  It is also a good stain blocker before painting over knots, etc.  It does yellow.   It is a fast drying, surface finish, so on the decks it would have to be brushed out thoroughly which is not easy - or buffed when dry - also not easy with all the obstructions.  I tried some thinned polyurethane on the forecastle, but was not satisfied for these reasons, hence the thinned oil.  This left a very uniform finish, so unless I have some bonding problems later, I will be happy with it.  I would have waited if I had any wood to wood gluing left to do, however.
 
There is no question that glue will not bond to wax - at least no glue I know of.
 
On the book, my guess is sometime in the first half of 2017, but no scheduling has been done yet and right now the ball is still in my court to produce the manuscript and enclosures.  
 
Ed

Seriously guys, does anyone keep their shop that clean??  Very nice full view.  I was going to ask you about the wax finish and bonding.  I have been using a 1/2 lb cut of Tiger Flake shellac on the fore/aft surfaces of the timbers prior to installation.  A single coat seals the grain without build up.
 
Do you have any idea when Vol. II will be available?  I'm ready to send my check.
 
Bpb

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 173 – Stovepipe/Channels
 
A short update.
 
I am sure I have mentioned that my present goal with the model is to complete the work of fitting out the hull and decks in preparation for masts and rigging. Completion of this work will define the endpoint of Volume II of Modeling Young America, and the starting point of Volume III.  We're getting close, with only the deck and hull eyebolts and a few other small chores remaining.
 
One of the minor chores was making and fitting the stovepipe through the roof at the forward end of the main deck cabin.  This was made as a fabrication of pieces of telescoping brass tube segments – a convenient fabrication method.  The first picture shows the stack before blackening.
 

 
The design is based on the two photos of the ship.  Three sizes of tube were used, plus a segment of solid rod to close the top of the diffuser cap.  The next picture shows the installed stack.
 

 
The simulated flashing at the base helped secure the stack in a drilled hole.
 
This week the channel deadeye installations were also completed.  The next picture shows the starboard mizzen channel and deadeyes. 
 

 
Deadeyes on all channels range from 16" (.22" actual) to 6" (.08 actual).  The largest on the mizzen channel shown above are 13".  Making the deadeye chains was described in an earlier post.   A number of eyebolts are yet to be installed in the channels.
 
The last picture shows the model at the current state.
 

 
Another bit of work that may be noticeable to some followers of the project is that the decks have been finished with a single coat of diluted Tung oil.  The open pores of the unfinished decks were beginning to accumulate dirt.  The finish has darkened the Castello decks slightly, evened out their finish and will make them easier to keep clean.  I did not use the usual wax finish because I am anticipating gluing some rope coils later and I believe with the right glue they will hold on the (by then) polymerized Tung oil.  Anyway, the decks had to be finished.
 
Ed

captharv2,
Thanks for the Spar Shop link.  Very impressive.  Spent some time in Grey's shipping rocket motors to Japan in the 90s. Beautiful harbor, I even considered it for retirement, but a little too damp.
 
Rob,
I should read a little more carefully before opening my mouth (it was late).  "Rounding" a segmented mast without banding or assembly must have been a real trick.  Shipwrights were amazing craftsmen.  Your simulation looks great.

Turned?? Masts and spares weren't turned.  Try to imagine a lathe big enough to do it and powered by what?  They were fashioned as Ed described.  I made a 16' mast for my sailboat by hand, its really quite easy.
 
Bob

captharv2,
Thanks for the Spar Shop link.  Very impressive.  Spent some time in Grey's shipping rocket motors to Japan in the 90s. Beautiful harbor, I even considered it for retirement, but a little too damp.
 
Rob,
I should read a little more carefully before opening my mouth (it was late).  "Rounding" a segmented mast without banding or assembly must have been a real trick.  Shipwrights were amazing craftsmen.  Your simulation looks great.

captharv2,
Thanks for the Spar Shop link.  Very impressive.  Spent some time in Grey's shipping rocket motors to Japan in the 90s. Beautiful harbor, I even considered it for retirement, but a little too damp.
 
Rob,
I should read a little more carefully before opening my mouth (it was late).  "Rounding" a segmented mast without banding or assembly must have been a real trick.  Shipwrights were amazing craftsmen.  Your simulation looks great.

captharv2,
Thanks for the Spar Shop link.  Very impressive.  Spent some time in Grey's shipping rocket motors to Japan in the 90s. Beautiful harbor, I even considered it for retirement, but a little too damp.
 
Rob,
I should read a little more carefully before opening my mouth (it was late).  "Rounding" a segmented mast without banding or assembly must have been a real trick.  Shipwrights were amazing craftsmen.  Your simulation looks great.

captharv2,
Thanks for the Spar Shop link.  Very impressive.  Spent some time in Grey's shipping rocket motors to Japan in the 90s. Beautiful harbor, I even considered it for retirement, but a little too damp.
 
Rob,
I should read a little more carefully before opening my mouth (it was late).  "Rounding" a segmented mast without banding or assembly must have been a real trick.  Shipwrights were amazing craftsmen.  Your simulation looks great.