MD11pilot

I want to thank everyone for all the likes and kind words of encouragement. I owe my gratitude to everyone here for the daily inspirational threads. This is the jest of the wheel making process.
 
Reinventing the wheel. It began with picking a design I liked and then deciding how big to make it. I found this photo on Google images and liked the design. Then I put my 6ft tall stick-man on deck to determine the size. Four feet seemed a good size for a pirate cutter, scaled to 1:64 made it about 19mm. So began the layout. All adhesives are up to the makers choice. I chose CA exclusively for this item.

I chose to use bamboo since it's very easy to turn and strong for such tiny little pieces. I drew up the size I wanted and the amount of spokes there would be. Two thin rings were cut off brass stock that would lend strength and aesthetics to the wheel. Next was to cut a slice of small diameter bamboo for the center piece. The bamboo slice was then turned to thin it to the desired thickness and placed into the center of the brass ring for alignment.

After both rings were lined up, they were pinned into place. A measurement was taken for the distance between the two rings. In this case it was 6mm. Then the turning began. I took a small length of bamboo and split it into pieces that were slightly larger than my target diameter of 1,3mm. The design of the spokes were completely random and took shape as I began turning the piece. The spokes were constantly checked against the circles making sure the 2mm handles were past the brass ring, that the piece that lined up with the brass was the thickness of the brass(1mm), that the distance of 6mm were maintained and the stem stayed at least 3mm long to fit into the center wheel.

Eight holes at 0,8mm were then drilled into the center bamboo ring. After the spokes were shaped, the 3mm length of stem was then turned down to 0,8mm to fit into the drilled holes. The spoke was then cut off the stock and fit into place to determine if I liked it or not. Afterward, the fun of duplication began seven more times.

Once all eight spokes were finished, they were fit into the pre-drilled holes, making sure that the 1mm section below the handle was even with the brass ring. Now the spokes were glued into the bamboo center and to the brass ring. Cork was used between the handles on the brass for its flexibility. Oversized pieces were glued into place and trimed flush to all the spokes, followed by glueing the second brass ring on top, centered on the lower brass ring. The center of the inner bamboo ring was then cleaned up and fit with brass stock that was drilled out to fit the piano wire axis. The cork was then carefully soaked with CA to harden it, and once dry trimed flush to both sides of the brass.

Everything was then cleaned up and fine tuned before the brass was blackened with Casey's Brass Black. I used the same method of antiquing that I use on the cannons and other brass fittings.

The process was fairly time consuming and far to long to describe in every detail. If there's anything to question, feel free to ask.

Proxxon Micro MBS 240/E Band Saw Review
 
Since I posted my new toy on my build log it has been suggested I write a review of this Band saw.
This is really first impressions by a novice user.
 
It may be of interest to those in the UK that the machine was purchased not from Chronos the UK Proxxon dealer, but from TBS- Aachen in Germany. Delivery was very quick, I was able to pay by Paypal, and there was a saving of £52.72 over the Chronos price, including a modest postage charge.
 
http://www.tbs-aachen.de/Proxxon/table_top_tools/bandsaw/Proxxon_27172_MICRO_bandsaw_MBS_240/E_i2486_42358.htm
 
A few general shots

 

 

Note the push stick hanging on the side of the machine, this is included.
 

 
First impressions.
This is the largest of the Proxxon tools I have, measuring  19½" high x 15½" deep x 11" wide. (including the motor on the side, and the table) It sits on a base of mdf 1” thick, 9¼" wide x 12¼" deep. The machine feels sturdy, it is quite stable, but portable, and I can pick it up one handed.
As can be seen below it sits comfortably on my desk.


The machine arrived with a standard blade already fitted, and all that was necessary to set it up was to attach the table and get familiar with the operations.
I found it useful to photocopy the exploded views in the manual so easy reference could be made to the parts etc; when reading the text.
 
Changing blades is fairly straightforward but as a complete novice with band saws it would have been comforting to have some sort of tensioning gauge when fitting blades rather than the narrative dire warning:- putting too much tension on the blade can tear apart and damage the device.
How much tension is too much tension, should there be any lateral play in the blade at all or should it feel rigid when pressed from the long side. It seemed to me that there is a range of tensions where I can’t detect differences in performance, but which is the optimum one.
Tensioning is done by degrees using the knob on top of the machine, best done with the cover off where the blade can be felt. I worked on the basis of when there was minimal play in the blade on the long side and the motor ran quietly, it was about right.
Access to the internals is via four Allan bolts to remove the cover which remains attached to the machine via a chain. A hinged door system would have made for quicker adjustments/cleaning.

 

 

The lower running wheel with the drive pulley attached. The wheels have a plastic cover around them over which the saw blade runs. In the photo you can see a brush which clears away bits of plastic scuffed off the wheel. These are replaceable items and I have noticed that the rate of wear changes depending on the tension, but again as a novice user it is difficult to know what is normal for this machine.
 

The machine has quite an efficient dust clearing system using the vacuum cleaner hose attachment.
 
Using the machine.
My initial use was limited to practising curved cuts on scrap wood which it easily accommodated. I progressed to cutting out the keel and false keel for my attempt at a 1:64 scale Pinnace.
 

This is fairly fine stuff using 1.5mm boxwood sheet, and it (or perhaps me) struggled a little with the internal curves given the scale.
I rather think a scroll saw would be more suited to the job, and certainly for the boat frames which are quite small.
Even so this is a very useful addition to the workshop and apart from cutting more complex shapes it will replace my table saw for many jobs also.
 
Here’s the official video of the machine.

Any member who has perhaps more experience in using this particular machine please feel free to comment.
 
B.E.
 
 
 

I chose to do my deck in a "3 butt shift" pattern keeping all my joints on top of bulkheads.  For me, this adds enough artistic appeal, while keeping the difficulty to a minimum.  
 
The idea of joggling into the margin plank was intimidating, but I have to keep reminding myself that this project is supposed to teach me all the all the skills I will need on other projects.  
 
I used full width planks from bow to stern instead of tapering.  I do like the tapered deck planks others have used, but at my skill level I opted to joggle full-width planks fore and aft.
 
As Sal suggested in his log, i laid in the first 3 planks on either side of the center line with no butts.  Most of these planks will be covered in deck furnishings so the effort would be wasted.  Also, applying these planks as full length pieces gave nice straight lines to work out from.
 
I used the #2 pencil method of simulating the caulking.
 
The first, full length planks go in….
 

Continuing out from centerline, and beginning the 3 butt shift pattern.  I was really worried that I would mess up one of the joggled plank ends and have to start the deck all over again.  But I took it slow and survived.
 

At this point I have to give a special "Thank you" to Sal.  
 
Sal, your careful planning and thorough discussion of your deck plan made my job a lot easier.  I shamelessly "borrowed" a lot of your ideas and research.  I hope you will take it as a compliment.

I didn't want to be excessive with the treenaiing so I just used the bulkhead lines established with the butt joints.  
 

 

Great progress Gundorph. There are a lot of Syrens on this forum and every one of them has its own personality given by the builder. I never get tired of watching a new ship take form and hearing how each builder conquered particular tasks.

Okay, I admit it - I'm really lousy at keeping my log up to date.  So here's some catching up...
 
After completing the exterior planking, I paused for a couple days just looking at the ship and taking stock.  Unfortunately, I didn't like what I saw.  Specifically, the treenailing was garish.  Too big, and too dark.  So I made the decision to paint the planking yellow ochre, thereby covering up my mistake.  I actually like it painted, even though that was not my original intent.  The treenailing faintly shows thru the paint giving a nice effect in my opinion.
 

 

 

Your deck looks very nice. Well done! I also really like the ochre color of your Syren!
 
Thomas 

Great progress Gundorph. There are a lot of Syrens on this forum and every one of them has its own personality given by the builder. I never get tired of watching a new ship take form and hearing how each builder conquered particular tasks.

Good morning from Denmark...  Here´s an update on the Syren, It´s beginning to take shape... 
 
Got the stern framing in place, painted the gunport and made the filler blocks. 
 
Off to charpter 5. Looking forward to that.. 

I only use 4 - 8 hours a week in the shipyard... We have a little boy on 1.5 years he is taken almost all the time we got ( and it´s Lovely )... its only when his a sleep i can go to the shipyard... 

What a lovely girlfriend i have. Came home from work today, and she had bought my a gift to the shipyard... 
 
What a GREAT DAY...
 
Proxxon KS230 + 2 xtra blades...   
 
Now back to the shipyard and work on the Syren...

Gunports in place... 
 
Damm that was a lot off sanding and still need a little more...   but the worst is over....
 
I think it looks good   What do you??? 
 
i am having a blast building this ship. Great kit by Chuck...
 
22 hours into the build... ( Don´t now if i am slow ) 

My first attempts at "joggling" or "nibbling".  Followed the instructions and it worked out OK.
 

 
The planking is all laid in, and you can see the results of the joggling fore….
 

 
And aft…..
 

 
To finish the deck, I scraped it with the blade from my hand plane and a utility knife blade.  After some sanding I finished the deck with pre-stain conditioner and a 50-50 mix of Minwax Natural and Golden Oak stain.

Max, I'm glad you like the ship, it's quite a step up from the Phantom.
 
One of the main reasons I purchased the Syren was because of the detailed instructions that came with it and Chuck does an excellent job of explaining each step.  You can go to the Model Expo site and download the instructions if your interested prior to purchasing the kit.  I think too that just as long as you have some basic knowledge of ship building and model making (and a lot of patience) you shouldn't have any problem building this kit.  There is also this forum that is most helpful for looking at previous builds and for answering any questions you may have.
 
Best of luck

My first attempts at "joggling" or "nibbling".  Followed the instructions and it worked out OK.
 

 
The planking is all laid in, and you can see the results of the joggling fore….
 

 
And aft…..
 

 
To finish the deck, I scraped it with the blade from my hand plane and a utility knife blade.  After some sanding I finished the deck with pre-stain conditioner and a 50-50 mix of Minwax Natural and Golden Oak stain.

Push pins inserted into the balsa blocking was a nice way to clamp the planks.  For this reason alone, if you are just starting your Syren don't scrimp on the blocking between the bulkheads.
 

Eric you've been very busy.  The exterior planking looks terrific painted, I might even like it better that way.  Your decking came out great too and I'm glad you found my log useful.  Please feel free to 'borrow' all the ideas you want. God knows I've 'borrowed' my fair share from other peoples logs, that's what this forum is all about.

I didn't want to be excessive with the treenaiing so I just used the bulkhead lines established with the butt joints.  
 

 

I didn't want to be excessive with the treenaiing so I just used the bulkhead lines established with the butt joints.  
 

 

My first attempts at "joggling" or "nibbling".  Followed the instructions and it worked out OK.
 

 
The planking is all laid in, and you can see the results of the joggling fore….
 

 
And aft…..
 

 
To finish the deck, I scraped it with the blade from my hand plane and a utility knife blade.  After some sanding I finished the deck with pre-stain conditioner and a 50-50 mix of Minwax Natural and Golden Oak stain.

Push pins inserted into the balsa blocking was a nice way to clamp the planks.  For this reason alone, if you are just starting your Syren don't scrimp on the blocking between the bulkheads.
 

I chose to do my deck in a "3 butt shift" pattern keeping all my joints on top of bulkheads.  For me, this adds enough artistic appeal, while keeping the difficulty to a minimum.  
 
The idea of joggling into the margin plank was intimidating, but I have to keep reminding myself that this project is supposed to teach me all the all the skills I will need on other projects.  
 
I used full width planks from bow to stern instead of tapering.  I do like the tapered deck planks others have used, but at my skill level I opted to joggle full-width planks fore and aft.
 
As Sal suggested in his log, i laid in the first 3 planks on either side of the center line with no butts.  Most of these planks will be covered in deck furnishings so the effort would be wasted.  Also, applying these planks as full length pieces gave nice straight lines to work out from.
 
I used the #2 pencil method of simulating the caulking.
 
The first, full length planks go in….
 

At this point I have to give a special "Thank you" to Sal.  
 
Sal, your careful planning and thorough discussion of your deck plan made my job a lot easier.  I shamelessly "borrowed" a lot of your ideas and research.  I hope you will take it as a compliment.