victorpapa
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Everything posted by victorpapa
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Looks great Ed, I found attaching the rope coils to the belay pins difficult on my FA. My next model I will attach all the belayed lines before I start rigging and run the appropriate lines under the coils as I rig rather than trying to add those little coils after the ship is rigged. Nice job all around, thanks for the posts. Vince
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Thanks Gary, I made up the rope coils on a long (4") rectangular block of scrap wood with wire studs spaced appropriately on the 'top' and 'side' edges, then used .008 thread wrapping around the studs 5-6 times and then tying a couple knots around the center of the loops. I waxed the wood before hand and treated the coils with thinned (acetone) Duco cement. Worked well after a few test configurations. Found the 'gathering knot' needed to be located toward one end of the coil to allow enough room to fit the coil over the cleats. Also made up a serving device from two (1 inch) center drilled 1/4 inch dowels, drinking straw, sewing machine bobbin on a side mounted shaft wire eye and some tape that allowed me to wrap about 3/4 to 1 inch of line per minute with excellent control of the wrappings. Some time in the near future I will create a blog on MSW with photos of the rig. Vince.
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Gary, Beautiful build, and thanks for the postings. My own FA effort was helped greatly by watching your and others progress. I'm at the standing rigging phase now and not all that excited about all those ratlines. Again thanks for your posts. Vince.
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I have seen depictions of rudder cables and tiller positioned in the ceiling
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Hi Gary, It is a little late to add suggestions, may help on your next build. I used picture frame wire for stropping on the blocks. I untwisted the wir and removed one strand that was somewhat twisted, the twisting was easily removed by stretching the wire. The wire was very soft and easily worked on the small blocks. I may also use a few strands of that wire for foot ropes. Your build looks great, thanks for the posts as your,Rafine and Kens posts have helped make my attempt better than it would have been without.
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Hi Gary, I am at the stage of installing cannons. I used blackened picture frame wire for stropping the blocks. The wire is very soft, I used only one strand at a time, stretched it smooth and blackened. Worked well on the 3/32 blocks.
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Ken, Ditto: fantastic work,
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Thanks Ken, I used Elmer's white glue (thinned) to paint on the edges of the sail cloth for the Bounty's launch. I cut the cloth over sized and painted the glue around the edges then double folded to hide the frayed edge and sowed on a machine. After finished I washed the sail to remove glue and re-stretch to smooth. Also created seams within the sail by same process gluing and folding strips of cloth to create <1/8 inch false seams that were sown to the sail. FA is smaller scale so that process may not be applicable, and the launch sails were deployed slightly less than full size. Also used flat lacquer to spray on the sail that was taped over a 1 gallon jug to form its curved shape.
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Looks great Ken. I like the clips you used to stabilize the yard,where did you purchase them? I am still working on cannons so still a long way from rigging. Your and others posts are a real help, thanks. Vince.
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Looks great! You were smart not to glaze the rear windows, I did, and now the inside glazing is covered with dust. Both you and Ken are an inspiration, and like the old research days ,it is a gift to benefit from the sharing of helpful information.
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Thanks for the post Gary, I'm just adding channels and other wood to the bulwarks, and will be considering dead eyes soon. I like the twisted wire, looks good. Just ordered another F.A. to build sometime .I learned from all my mistakes and maybe will build a second and trick out the captians quarters and holds. I see miniture lights and all kinds of bells and whistles are available. Thanks for the help. Vince
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Beautiful build, I used a technique learned as a kid working in a body shop; to fair the hull planking I sprayed a shadow coat ( very light coat) of flat black on the rough sanded planking, then made up various sized sanding blocks, different roughness, the low spots stay blackened making it easier to fair to smooth.
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Thanks Ken, I also like the look of them and will add them to my build.
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Thanks Gary, Read somewhere about woodlings and bamds used to strengthen masts that were made up with multiple sections of wood. Before 1800 trees with 30 inch diameters ere available and the spars were usually one piece. The F.A. masts look to be around 1 foot (seems small) and would probibly would not require woodlings or bands. (although they do look pretty cool) Yes,yes, one cannot have too much light at the work space.
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Gary, I read that some cannon of this era were fitted with a flint lock type of fireing mechanism. I am at the point of working on cannon and wondered if this would be something worth duplicating. Being new at this process I am following your and Kens build closely, much appreciated. Vince.
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Your posts on woodlings got me thinking. I wondered if woodlings served the same purpose as bands on built up masts to strengthen the assemblys on larger ships with masts that were too large in diameter to be constructed from one pole. Looks like the F.A. masts are approx. 1 foot in diameter and could be made from a single tree, there by negating the need for strengthing the spar. Thanks for sharing your build.
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Super post,superior craftsmanship,beautiful model. What was to be a nightmare of rigging; has become clear and something to look forward to because of your photos. Thanks for sharing.
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Thanks to both Gary and KenW for the helpful suggestions.
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Hi Ken, Yes your cannons do look great, along with the rest of your build, I am humbled - and inspired. I am wondering if there is a good way to blacken the brass cannons. I was unable to find spent photographic fixer and have tried copper sulfate/baking soda dip and house hold ammonia vapor on scrap brass with less than acceptable results. Before I spend $$ on commercial solutions, or try to experiment with an old quarter and various acids I thought I'd ask. Thanks to you and the other members for your informative posts.
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Thanks Gary, I have found your posts to be very helpful, and they have enhanced the enjoyment of my build.
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I wondered about the location of the quarter deck face. The doors are blocked by the aft most cannons. The fix might be to move the cannon forward or move the quarter deck face aft to in between bulkheads 12 and 13. Any comments?
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