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About GaryKap

  • Birthday 09/11/1946

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Roanoke, Virginia
  • Interests
    completed MS Newsboy, Sultana, Rattlesnake
    and MS Fair American

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  1. Hi Jim - Thank you for your kind words. I have not been active on this web site in a few months. My wife and I have moved into a "patio home" - a compact two bedroom unit that is one of four on a concrete slab. My work space has been reduced to a 2 foot by 3 foot work table in the second bedroom. Because of the need to downsize, I had to give this model of Benjamin W. Latham - and others - away for want of space. But I am still managing to work on my "Confederacy" with its three foot hull. The work table does OK and I can take the hull outside for sanding. This model ha
  2. Dirk, I really do appreciate having you there looking over my shoulder. I would much rather go through the thought process as we did above than make some major error in my construction. Like we say here in the U.S. "If you see something, say something!" and that applies equally to model ship building. In the near future I hope to be doing the stern and quarter galleries and I will be looking to you for guidance after the stunning job you did on your Confederacy build. John, thank you for your kind words. Harley thanks for your thoughts. Jeez; when they said this k
  3. Thank you guys for the "likes". They are always welcome and give me encouragement. And thanks to Russ, John, Jim, Mike, alde, and Dirk for your comments. It is probably true for each of us that we are our own worst critic...except for the Admiral, that is. Jim, I will be looking for your build log. Mike, the color below the wales is just the naked basswood; not even finish sanded yet. Dirk, I appreciate your watchful eye, but in this case I think you are mistaken. Take a look at the Instructions on page 65. It says "There are three laser cut pieces for the rudder. They are 1/4 inch th
  4. Jesse - I can only echo what the others have already said. Our love for our pets is almost as great as their love for us. I know that I grieved long and hard when I lost a dog. Hard to say good-bye. I understand and sympathize. <<Gary>>
  5. I have finally finished planking the hull below the wales and adding the second (final) layer for the main wales and channel wales. The pictures are below, but I would like to add some thoughts and recommendations for future builders. I lulled myself into believing that Confederacy, although HUGE, would be an easy hull to plank. She is NOT. This is the fifth ship model hull that I have planked and the result is not even close to my best work. My fault...I did not follow the directions. (I did not understand their implication). On page 52, Chuck says “The forward end of the garboard
  6. Jesse - Yeah, but I seem to remember when visiting HMS Victory being told that each sailor had TWO hammocks...one to use and one to air out . Seems to me that the key thing is that you fill the netting with hammocks. There is the famous quote that "all models are wrong; some are useful". It was aimed at mathematical models but certainly applies equally to ship models. Here is a link to a page of a book on model ship building that addresses hammocks and hammock netting. The illustrations look very similar to the work you have done on SYREN. This certainly is a learning experience, isn't i
  7. Jesse - Here is a picture of a model from the Russian Naval Museum in St. Petersburg showing hammock rolls. I don't know if the Russians rolled their hammocks differently than the Americans, but at least this might be of some help. Your SYREN build is looking very nice. How many times have you snagged your arm on that long bowsprit already? I'm looking forward to more pictures etc. <<Gary>>
  8. Hi Jesse - When I was adding the netting, I found that a couple of small dabs of super glue worked very well to hold it in place. Be sure to get the netting all the way down to the bottom of the hammock cranes and not leave a big gap between the netting and the rail. Your model is looking very very nice. I admire the quality of your work. <<Gary>>
  9. Hi Harley - Good to see that people actually READ the text and don't just look at the pictures; and (I guess) good to know that its not just me with the 5/32 x 1/16" strips. I thought that I might have to use a 1/8" wide strip for the last part of the main wales. I have had good experience requesting replacement parts from Model Expo in the past. Sad to say, I will need to request a replacement sheet for the gun carriages. The axle holes for the wheels (trucks?) are way off center. I will wait until after the Christmas crush to do this, as there is certainly no hurry. I am using
  10. I have finished the first layer of planking above the main wales and have also completed the second (final) layer for the main wales. I have yet to do the black strake and the channel wales. I have also sanded the planking with 120 and 320 grit paper. I have stained the necessary number of 5/32 x 1/32 inch wood strips that will become the black strake and channel wales, and will stain the hull planking above the main wales prior to installing these. I am doing this to minimize glue blotches that would prevent stain from going into the wood and that would be quite visible in the completed model
  11. Thank you for the "likes" CaptMorgan, rafine, JohnB40, and Tigersteve. They are always appreciated. John, I also feel like I have been working on this model for quite a while now...and I have BARELY gotten started! I have pretty much completed the first layer of planking above the wales and she is looking increasingly like a frigate. I really like the curves of the hull. And I am now at a point where I am confident that there will be a completed model ship at the end of the process. It's just a question of how good it will turn out. Today the weather was mild so I took her outside to do
  12. I am continuing to work from Chapter Five – planking the hull above the wales. I didn't post a link to this chapter, so here it is: http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Confed/Chapter%205.pdf I have planked up to the waist, most of the forecastle, and just under the gun ports on the quarterdeck. As I do this, I am gluing the edges of the planks to give the hull more strength. Also, I will not trim the ends of the planks until after I have sanded the surface of the hull. This will help me to prevent rounding the ends of the planks. Also, leaving excess plank beyond the hull helps when clamp
  13. Dirk, John, Cathead, and tigerdver, thank you for your kind thoughts. And yes, I do have many things to be thankful for on this Thanksgiving. <<Gary>>
  14. Since my last post, my brother died and I also had to deal with other family health problems. I did not feel like working on my ship model...or doing much else. A couple weeks ago I started planking the hull above the wales, following Chapter 5 of the Instruction Manual. But as I began, I did not feel like taking pictures nor did I feel like posting to the build log. So I dottered along half heartedly and not doing great work. Before things “went south”, I pre-bent the planks for the lower counter, using the window cutout for the transom piece as a template or guide for the correct
  15. I have completed Chapter 4. I added the hance pieces and the hull sheaves. One comment on the hance pieces – two pieces 3/16 inch thick each need to be glued together to form a piece of wood 3/8 inch thick that is sanded to shape after it is glued to the hull. This requires a lot of sanding with existing bulkhead extensions and other basswood parts in close proximity, and therefore the risk of deforming existing parts of the hull. I discovered that there are TWO sets of these provided in the kit as laser cut parts. One set is in basswood, and the other is in the same plywood as the bulkheads.
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