JSGerson
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
CHAPTER 4 –Planking the Lower Hull
As I have indicated before, this is my first real planking project and I’m taking a BIG bite from the apple. The practicum kitbash is following Harold Hahn’s model albeit in a smaller scale. Because the model uses very little if any paint (except black stain in lieu of ebony wood), the hull water line is created with different woods to complicate the planking process. Reading how to plank a hull and actually doing it are two completely different experiences. So due to my lack of the latter - experience, my results are far from perfect.
The Stem, Keel and Sternpost
Here is where the stem which was the first item created is finally attached to the hull.
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
The practicum tells you not to glue the margin plank until the very end. This way, you can remove that plank, to make the plank notches. The planks themselves are glued in. Finally at the end the margin plank is glued down.
The trick is to, as the practicum puts it: “You want to have exactly 3 rows of planking left to install between the last row and the margin plank you have just cut. The aft end of the next row of planking you install will nib into the margin plank at the aft end about 1/4" from the end.”
Mine was close but not exact…as usual.
Tree Nails
The deck planks have a single 026” treenail across its width and are installed as before on the beam lines into #69 drill bit holes. Bamboo nails are made using a draw plate and “glued” in using poly-wipe.
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
Now the practicum instructs that you fine tune the cut shape using a compass to scribe the 3/16” line along the inner edge as shown in this image from the practicum.
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
As the planking approaches the margin plank, a notch is created starting from the 5th plank from the center. The plank is then trimmed to fit. After five rows on each side of the centerline, you are instructed to stop once again. The first image below is from the practicum.
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
Deck Planking
After establishing and marking the center line of the model, I noted where the deck beams would be using the Hahn deck plan. This was pointed out in the practicum because Mr. Hunt didn’t and pointed out the error of his ways. The deck beams are where the planking butt up against each other and they are not consistent.
Starting at the parquet floor and along the centerline, centered side to side, the planks are cut to length as indicated in the practicum, coated on the edges with artist charcoal, and glued down. You will notice that there are four staggered rows each side of the center line and then it repeats. Just remember to open up the mast holes before they are total covered. At this point the practicum instructs you to stop and work on the bow.
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
Then the whole floor was simply dropped in place and glued down.
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
The Bulwarks
The practicum stated that Mr. Hunt’s first inclination was the most obvious one; simply apply the planking to the framework. But because the practicum addressed two construction approaches, he thought there might be some who would like to use the wood supplied in the kit on their bulwarks. This wood is very thin and applying it straight to the bulwarks will make it very difficult to sand and keep the planking even between rows. He offered a non-standard solution that was to give a nice looking bulwark area. And since the model was not a plank on frame model he felt that the solution was a good one. The solution was to use a very 1/64” plywood veneer against the framework first and then apply a thinner plank on top of the plywood veneer. Alternatively, the kit instructs the builder to add additional false framework to support the planking. I elected to follow the plywood approach.
Cardstock templates made from file folders and used to form the plywood pieces.
Then they were glued in.
Once the bulwarks were installed all of the openings for the gunports and windows were cut out.
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
Aft Side Windows
Again the side view template was used to locate the aft windows on each side of the model. Small pilot holes were drilled and then expanded and finally cut and filed to shape. Four pieces of boxwood was used to create the window frame and glued on the inside wall. At this point they exactly like gunports.
Bowsprit Hole
It was at this point that the practicum instructed how to remove the keel extension in the bow that was done earlier. The one thing that hadn’t been done was to create the hole for the bowsprit. This was now done. Fine tuning this opening will be done latter.
This ends Chapter 2
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
The Main Rail
The mail rail is a molded holly strip that is light in color and is added before the remaining planking is completed. Making the molded profile was a completely new technique to me. After purchasing some “super thin separating cutting discs” from a company called International Inc., a profile of the molding is cut into a razor blade The width of the profile must be the same as the stock piece of wood that is to be drawn through it.
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
Stern Transom Planking
Because the ends of the stern planking need to be covered by the side planning, the stern planking was started at this point. Once more I was reminded that something was amiss because in the practicum, only one row of planking was needed to reach the bottom of the window opening. In my model it required two. As the successive rows were added on, the window openings were carved out. The second picture was taken before I had sanded and cleaned up the flaws so it looks a bit rough.
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
Following the instructions of the practicum, I installed the tree nails using Minwax Wipeon Poly as the adhesive. This is the same coating used to finish the wood surface of the boat. The excess bamboo is cut off and sanded flush leaving no glue marks. I prefer that the treenails have a low contrast rather high one as seen in some other models because I feel it looks more realistic. The picture below shows the bamboo “glued in” but not trimmed and sanded.
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
More pictures of the gunport planking
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
In constructing the gunports it was necessary to remove part of the kit bulkheads. Eventually all expose kit bulkheads would be removed. Although the practicum did not call for it at this point (it would a few steps later), the keel extension in the bow was removed and replaced with other pieces as instructed by the practicum.
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
In ensure that the bottom of the gunport was at the proper height off the deck, I made a template of the cannon and used it to measure the top of the sill.
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
Because some of the gunports have lids and others don’t, a lip had to be constructed around the openings for those that did. Here is a picture from the practicum as I do not have a picture that depicts it.
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
In this instance the alignment used the kit bullheads. If they were off… ripples and ripple effect.
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
Gunport Planking
The planking above and below the wale is single planking and therefore simulating actual planking. To do this the planks are cut to a scale for 24’ – 30’ lengths. The butts of adjacent rows are at least 5’ apart. Two rows above the wale are installed and sanded flush with the wale. Sorry, no photos at this stage.
The template that was used to establish the wale line now has the gun port opening cut out
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
Counter Planking
Using boxwood with the side blacked with artist chalk to simulate caulking, the first plank was laid at the bottom of the transom. The rest were installed to the bottom of the wale.
This was my first inkling that something was amiss. In the practicum it took 5 planks to accomplish to this task. My model only needed 4 planks. It was too late now, so I pushed on knowing trouble was coming (the ripple effect).
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
Because the wale is thicker than the rest of the planking, the wale is double planked. The first layer is basswood and the second ebony. My wood package did not come with ebony, but walnut which I had to paint black. This first planking will obviously not be seen so the practicum has it applied as one piece. After it was fitted and beveled to fit in the bow rabbet joint, it was glued down working my way back to the stern.
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
CHAPTER 2 – The Upper Hull, Scratchbuilt
Upper Planking
The wales
Mr. Hunt addresses and emphasizes the key in model ship construction is that everything is dependent and related to each other. It’s the ripple effect. You do things right, and things go easier; you do them poorly, not so well. I did not realize at the time, how I would learn the truth of that. With that said, I started my first real planking process.
The practicum starts at the wales. Using the Hahn profile drawing, I cut out drawing and pasted it to card stock – office file folder. Following the instructions of the practicum, the template was located and placed on the model careful to keep it flat. That meant to NOT wrap it around the hull. The 2D image on the template was what one would see looking from the side, not the actual 3D shape. I had this problem earlier with the transom window openings. The wale line was then marked in pencil on the hull. This was repeated on the port side with the template reversed.
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
Using a piece of 7/16” x 1/32” swiss pear you are instructed to create a cap that goes across the top of the interior timbers which I did.
It was to be trimmed at a later time. I was never really content with this but kept it on until it was inadvertently knocked off. I didn’t bother to put it on again till I felt I needed it.
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
Now I glued the transom to the stern. As I mentioned earlier I ran into a problem later on when I was determining where the rudder stem came through the decks. I’m not sure, but this is where I may have made my mistake and given the transom an improper angle thus shortening the deck. By the time I realized it, I had to make some compromises which I will discuss then.
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
The transom timbers became part of the frame for the window openings. Again, the location of the transom windows is based on the Hahn plans. The practicum then instructs you install the transom to the stern before the start of the window construction. Contrary to this, I created window openings while the transom was off the model. I felt I could make cleaner cuts and manipulate the transom easier. In most models of the Rattlesnake there are four windows and a center panel. Mr. Hunt elected not to create the center panel for this model.
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
Next came the transom timbers which were cut to size. You will notice that the outer timbers are not uniform in width, but taper starting about ½” from the bottom.
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JSGerson got a reaction from goatfarmer11 in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
The kitbash calls for making the deck below the stern quarter deck (nautical term?) visible in contrast to the original kit. After transferring lines from the Hahn’s plan as described in detail in the practicum, I carved out a cavity in the stern using a sanding drum on a Dremel rotary tool.
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