GuntherMT

Thank you Michael and Bob for your kind words and thank you to all the 'Likes'.
Bob, I'm just trying to give back a little bit of everything I get from this forum 😉
 
The central seat is ready. But first I'm going to give it few coats of paint.

 

Thank you Jeff and Bob for your comments. And thank you to all the ‘Likes’.
Bob, I am fortunate to have been able to build the Queen's Anne barge and many of the processes are similar which makes it easier.
What helps me are the following:
1. Read, read and re-read the instruction manual. Before each step, I read 2 to 3 times the part that explains it. The instruction manuals written by Chuck are a model of the genre and all the answers are there.
2. Refer to the work of others. We are fortunate to have on this forum extraordinary modelers who share their work. There too, before each step I go through the other build logs again to get inspiration from their beautiful work.
3. Take your time and never hurry.
Note that I too am rarely happy with my work and each time I tell myself that I could have done better. It is also a goal: to think that the next model will be better. That said, every moment spent on this longboat is a moment of happiness because Chuck has concocted a jewel for us.
 
I was able to advance on the installation of the cockpit seats.

Do not be afraid to accentuate the cutting angle on the back of the seat.

The rear thwart was glued and protected with some tape. Note the small tabs placed on the bottom of the thwart  to facilitate the installation of the 2 cockpit seats. Thank you Ryland for the tip !

I already pass several layers on the seats before gluing them.

And finally they are glued. Also inspired by Ryland's work, I glued 2 small tabs to facilitate the installation of the central seat.


    
 

Thank you to all the 'Likes'.
The thwarts are provisionally in place. These are not yet glued. I have to finish the cockpit seats before.


 

Bob and Gary, thank you for your kind words and thank you to all the 'Likes'.
The risers are in place. They were previously pre-bended.
I used a little jig (on the model of the depth gauge 'T' square used for the Queen Anne Barge) to determinate the good position at each frame.

I simulate the nails only once the board in place. I wanted to be sure I positioned them correctly.

I started working on the thwarts.
 

As I apply many diluted layers with a brush ( I am in my tenth coat and I have as much to apply in order to have a good result...), I decided to install the floor boards and the bow and stern platforms. It changes me from the repetitive painting job...
I tried to follow the instructions as well as possible. On the advice found on Ryland Craze's log, for the two outer floorboards that are made of two pieces each, I installed each piece separately. I actually found it easier to bend them separately.



I will continue in parallel the painting work and the laying of the thwarts.

Thank you to all the 'Likes'.
 
The knee is now in place at the bow.
As the laser cut knee did not perfectly match the bow of my longboat, it may be interesting that I detail how I mounted the knee.
A first possibility would have been to completely recreate a new knee. But I was not sure if I could reproduce the curve as perfectly as that the part supplied in the kit.
Luckily, as the piece is very fragile, Chuck provided a few pieces just in case one broke. So I glue at each end, a piece of the second copy provided.

I then sand the ends until I get the shape that perfectly matches the bow of my longboat.

I glue the knee and prepare a mixture of wood filler and red acrylic paint.


It only remains to sand perfectly.

With this method, I was able to use the original part and be assured that the curve is perfect.
It's time to take out my brushes.

Thanks to all for your kind words. I really appreciate.
The inboard sheer strake has been added. These are 4 pre-cut planks 1/32" thick and 5/32" wide.
I made a cardboard copy of the bow section to be sure not to bend the wrong end or the wrong way 😁
The 2 bow sections were then preformed by briefly dipping them in hot water and then shaped on the model with clamps. I waited until the parts were dry. Be careful to use small scraps of wood between the clamps and the sheer strake so that the wood is not marked.

You will notice that I already painted in red the lower edge of the inboard sheer strake before gluing it in order to avoid to paint this part later and in order to have a clean finish.

Once glued, I carefully filled the small gaps with red tinted filler. Finally I sanded the top of the cap rail and inboard sheer strake smooth.

 
 
 

Thanks to all the 'Likes'.
The cap rail has been reduced to a width of 5/32". I started with the outer edge. Then using a compass open at 5/32" I drew a line following the outer edge. I finally sanded the inside edge to this line.


I still have to finalize the fairing inboard and the interior needs to be cleaned a little.

Thank you for all the 'Likes'
The bolsters are done.
I used the magnificent Mikhail wood micro chisels. I'm lucky to have been able to acquire a set and it is a purchase that I do not regret.


I also stuck sandpaper on wooden sticks of different diameters.


I have allowed myself to not follow exactly the form provided by the plan and I have given to my bolsters a more personal touch.
It took a long time and I had a good day to shape these two pieces.
 
It's time to reduce the width of the caprail.

Thanks all for your kind words.
I'm thinking about the hand painted side friezes variant...
The caprail is now in place.
It will be put in the right proportions after the installation of the two bolsters.


Time to work on the challenging bolsters...
 
 
 

The new building board is ready and the tops of the frames have been sanded down to the sheer.
I can now install the caprail. 🙂



 

Thank you all for your kind words and thank you to all the 'Likes'.
The longboat was taken out of his baseboard. Just take your time.
First I start by cutting with a small file. When the cut mark is formed, I continue with a saw.
I remove the reinforcing tape with a tweezer just before finishing the cut.


Time to prepare the installation of the caprail.
 

After my stop due to my surgery, happy to go back to work on this longboat 😄
If for the side decorations, I will use the friezes supplied with the kit, for the transom decoration, I opted for a more personal version.

I take advantage of the stability offered by the build board, to paint a small freehand motif.
So I took out my tubes of extra fine oil paint. and it allows me to work again with my right hand 😉

Time to remove the baseboard.
 
   

Thank You Chuck for your advice and Gary for your kind support.
Thank You to all the 'Likes'.
The planking is now finished.
For the second layer, I used a more traditional method because I was afraid of not being able to give the exact shape that perfectly matches the first layer already in place using the heat of an hair dryer.

As I was afraid that humidity would cause the first plank to curl, I protected it with masking paper using the laser sheet as template.

The masking tape is then set up.

The plank is soaked for 2 minutes in hot water and then placed on the hull.

After a few hours, you get a plank that perfectly matches the shape of the hull and which can be glued without having to exert pressure. The masking paper prevented any deformation of the first layer already in place and facilitates the removal of the second plank once dry.

The last board before its installation ☺️

The treenail simulation is finished and the second layer thinned at the bow and at the stern.


A good stage completed 😅
 

I took advantage of the end of the year to finish the planking of the hull.



I still have to add the second layer for the two upper strakes.
A question : Do I have to follow the same sequence for the installation of this second layer and start with the plank #15 ?
Thank You in advance for your help.    

Thank You to all the 'Likes'.
I continue quietly laying the planks.

Four rows are now glued. As I only work with wood glue (Titebond), it is necessary to use clamps. To avoid marking the wood, I slide a small piece of cloth between the wood and the clamp.

The treenails are simulated after laying each row.


Nothing is sanded yet and some small gaps will need to be filled...
Still five rows.

Thank You Chuck and Gary for your kind words. The kit is a real gem and very pleasant to build.
Thanks to all the 'Likes'.
The garboard is in place.



As you can see, before to begin the planking, the hull has been lined and tick marks have been reported on each frame.
 

Finally, I decided to simulate the treenails at this step. It's easier to position them now.
 

The bobstay is now in place on the bowsprit.


I will add now the footropes and the bowsprit shrouds.
 

Thank you Brian. I will do this using the method you used.
I also changed the nylon rope to that of Syren which seems really very realistic to me.

No reason you can't 'finish' them, but my suggestion is to finish them (and all the other ropes) in a way that allows you to adjust them later if you really decide you need to.
 
All of my rigging was 'fixed' by using the actual methods of tying off to a cleat, and then soaking (using a paintbrush) the rope around the cleat with a 50/50 mixture of white glue and water.  When it dries it's completely invisible and the entire mass of rope (including a coil if you have one) will be 'glued' in place, but if you ever need to adjust it, all you have to do is add some water and wait a few minutes and suddenly the rope is free to adjust however you want.
 
My entire rigging is secured this way, and it's been 5 years now and not a single rope has slipped/changed and there is no visible evidence of the water/glue mixture.

I forget if you are using Syren rope for your model like I did, but if you are, then this method worked really well for me.  No idea if it would work on that nylon rope provided in the kit.

No reason you can't 'finish' them, but my suggestion is to finish them (and all the other ropes) in a way that allows you to adjust them later if you really decide you need to.
 
All of my rigging was 'fixed' by using the actual methods of tying off to a cleat, and then soaking (using a paintbrush) the rope around the cleat with a 50/50 mixture of white glue and water.  When it dries it's completely invisible and the entire mass of rope (including a coil if you have one) will be 'glued' in place, but if you ever need to adjust it, all you have to do is add some water and wait a few minutes and suddenly the rope is free to adjust however you want.
 
My entire rigging is secured this way, and it's been 5 years now and not a single rope has slipped/changed and there is no visible evidence of the water/glue mixture.

I forget if you are using Syren rope for your model like I did, but if you are, then this method worked really well for me.  No idea if it would work on that nylon rope provided in the kit.

No reason you can't 'finish' them, but my suggestion is to finish them (and all the other ropes) in a way that allows you to adjust them later if you really decide you need to.
 
All of my rigging was 'fixed' by using the actual methods of tying off to a cleat, and then soaking (using a paintbrush) the rope around the cleat with a 50/50 mixture of white glue and water.  When it dries it's completely invisible and the entire mass of rope (including a coil if you have one) will be 'glued' in place, but if you ever need to adjust it, all you have to do is add some water and wait a few minutes and suddenly the rope is free to adjust however you want.
 
My entire rigging is secured this way, and it's been 5 years now and not a single rope has slipped/changed and there is no visible evidence of the water/glue mixture.

I forget if you are using Syren rope for your model like I did, but if you are, then this method worked really well for me.  No idea if it would work on that nylon rope provided in the kit.

The rigging of the boom has been carried out.


A temporary rope is placed at the end of the boom while waiting for the boom topping lift to be fixed.

I don't know if I can already fix the ends of the boom sheet and of the outhaul on their cleats definitively or if it is better to wait before giving the final tension to these two ropes...

Next step : the bobstay

Thank you Brian for your help.
It's always reassuring to know that you can have the help of people who have already done this same job.
I will mostly use the practicum to acquire the basic techniques.
For the rigging sequence, I will follow the method read in the Cheerful instruction manual and especially reread the various logs on the AVS ☺️.

Do yourself a huge favor and read through all of the rigging parts of the practicum entirely, at least a couple of times and then try to picture in your head how it will all go together, because I remember that he got sloppy (for lack of a better term) after the rigging started and some things were in an order that wouldn't work at all in practice, or would certainly make things a lot harder.

Couple things I remember specifically is the mast construction where the metal bit that holds the topmast on gets placed too early and you are then unable to actually put the topmast in from the top - I had to get mine in from the bottom which wouldn't have worked if I had done it as late in the steps as I think he says.
 
Also go through and look for all the little rigging bits that are anchored into the mast - especially things like eyebolts, and do those early, instead of when you discover you need to add one very late in the rigging process when there is a bunch of stuff in the way.  Don't ask me how I know this... lol.. 
 
There is a lot of good practical advice in the rigging part of the practicum, but my memory says that you need to re-order a fair number of steps to actually get it done without a lot of pain.  My guess is that he did all the rigging and then went back and wrote it down, but not in the proper order, but that's just my guess.  He admitted openly on his old forums years ago that he hates rigging so rushes through it and I think that's reflected in his writing of this part.