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JpR62

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About JpR62

  • Birthday 03/13/1962

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Valais - Switzerland
  • Interests
    Historical figurines, Music, Golf

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680 profile views
  1. Superbe ! Quelle précision ! et merci de partager votre merveilleux travail !
  2. Thanks Gary for your encouragement and thanks to all the 'Likes'. The ship's wheel is finished and the tiller line has been added. The wheel was suspended at a jig and the rope coated with a mixture of white glue diluted with water. It will be easier to pass the end of the rope in the two holes drilled in the deck. The two quarterdeck ladders have been added Very happy to see some parts of the deck furniture definitely finished.
  3. Thanks to all the 'Likes'. The rudder is placed. I first added the pintles and gudgeons on the stern post. I followed the instructions from the Cheerfull manual. As always the instructions are very precise and instructive. I wanted to add some more details founded on the net and in my personal documentation. I bought lately an excellent monograph from the 'Editions Gérard Delacroix' on the small vessel 'Le Rochefort'. This yacht has the same tonnage as the Virginia Sloop and is from the same period. We can see the 'safety' system (système de sauvegarde) of the rudder. I decided to add these details. Some photos of this system have been found on the net and a very detailed description of the method to simulate it was found in the wonderful log 'Pimp my Sherbourne' written by Dubz. A piece of fabric cut from an old little bag of my daughter was first reinforced with CA glue in order to obtain a precise and clean cutting. The piece of fabric was tinted with a black permanent marker and the glued in place. Finally, nails were use to simulate the mode of fixation The chain and the rope will be added later. Next step : the catheads...
  4. Small update on my build log. The rudder is ready to be set up. As I don't have actually tools for metal working, I used the mini kit 'Gudgeons and straps' from Syren. I added two eyebolts for the chain and drilled a hole for the safety rope. I have to think about buying a soldering kit because working metal must be surely interesting...
  5. A beauty ☺️ I always appreciate your tips. When I saw the idea to use binder clips to prevent breaking the bulkheads, I thought, why dit not I think about it ? The simplest ideas are often the best. But You have to found them 😉 The Winchelsea will is going to be a wonderful kit. Thanks Chuck !
  6. I'm already anticipating the rigging work. In order to use served ropes on my model, I ordered some time ago, the Serv-o-matic from Syren Ship Model Company. As advised in the instruction manual, I first cleaned all the laser char from each piece. My Proxxon was very useful for this step. I then applied two thin layers of Liberon teak oil. The assembly is not very complicate and as usual with the products from Syren Ship Model the instruction manual is very detailed. The only change I made from the instruction is the addition of a piece of red velvet sticker under the Serv-o-matic. Once glued, I precisely cut the piece of velvet. I just have to make my first piece of served ropes...
  7. This week I worked on the binnacle. I added small details : the compass in the middle and two small petroleum lamps in each compartment on left and right side. The lamps were bought at RB Model. For the compass, I used the lower part of a RB lamp. I filled it with AB putty and I glued a compass rose image found on internet and scaled down with MS Word. A drop of gloss varnish to simulate the glass. I know that we will not really distinguish the lamps once the upper part will be glued. But we will guess their present through the hole drilled between the compartments. Small holes have been drilled on the sides and on the back for ventilation of the lamps. I will now focus on the rudder...
  8. Thanks SpyGlass and to all the Likes. I used two different ways for the caulk. On the hull, I used archival Ink (Pigma Brush) from Sakura. Only on one side of the plank. For the deck, I used black cardboard glued on on side of each strip. On my next project, I will probably try to use thin rod of black hornbeam or thin plastic film (as described by Kortes in his build log on the Friech Boeir Yacht Sperwer).
  9. Thanks for the 'Likes'. This week I worked on the steering wheel and his drum. As the wheel provided in the kit is a britannia casting, I have decided to upgrade with a wheel from Syren Shipmodel Company. It's the 15/16" (24mm) version, the smallest of the two produced by Chuck. The instructions for building the ship's wheel mini kit can be found on the internet sit. As usual, the instructions are clear and precises with a lot of pictures. The only change I made is to secure the jig on a piece of scrap wood using a nail. I'm sure everything is centered and nothing moves when building the wheel. The drum is built using two segments of wood dowel A small brass nail is used to attach the ship's wheel to the laser-cut walnut stand. The head of the nail will be blackened using some liver of sulphur gel. I must also add the tiller line...
  10. I received 2 books : - The 74 Gun Ship, Practical treatise of naval art 1780, Vol. 2, french version, From Ancre A must to have : all the details about the fittings and the internal arrangements with a full of detailled drawings. It's the first one I buy but I will certainly complete the series. The second one is a supplement book edited by SeaWatch books : Swan IV, Sail Making Supplement from David Antscherl A very interesting book which contains a detailed description of one of the methods for making sails. A lot of drawings and pictures. Very precise and educational. A mus to have as well.
  11. The treenail job is done. I followed the method used by Chuck Passaro for his Revenue Cutter Cheerful build : the holes were filled with some Minwax wood putty (a mix of Golden oak and natural pine with a ratio of 50%). For the schema, I was inspired by two pictures found in the excellent book 'Modeling an armed Virginia Sloop of 1768' by Clayton A. Feldman. This book is a great source of inspiration. and the result on my model I will work now on the ship's wheel and the catheads.
  12. When I need to use my Minwax wood putty to imitate the treenails, I found the putty that had hardened in his box. After some research on the web, I have found this video that contains a solution : https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=minwax+wood+putty+soft&&view=detail&mid=48DA9105B2B16B26D88C48DA9105B2B16B26D88C&&FORM=VRDGAR So I buy a small box of petroleum jelly (in Europe that product is named Vaseline) and it does his job : the putty has a second life
  13. The kit is perhaps terrible but the result is beautiful. Congratulations on this handsome model. I am amazed at your work and hope that you will have fun again on your next project. Best regards
  14. Wonderful job on this gun Jason ! I also prefer the 0.3mm line version that fits better with the breeching ropes. Thank You for sharing your beautiful work.
  15. Thanks Dave, Bruce and all the 'Likes'. Dave, as this is my first ship, I focus on building techniques. I will test the weathering techniques during future builds. But it's true that I prefer to avoid painting the wood and prefer to play with the different types of wood. Bruce, finally I used the basswood strips provided in the kit. I have ordered some maple wood but when I received the strips I realized that the strips were too wide (a mistake in the conversion from inch to mm 😯). Since I do not have a table saw, I decided to use the basswood from the kit in order to be able to respect the deck plan. It's been a year since I started this build log and I must say that it was really very interesting and full of challenges. I would never have arrived at this result without this forum that contains a wealth of information and advice. A big Thank You to all who share their techniques and tips 😊

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