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About JpR62

  • Birthday 03/13/1962

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Valais - Switzerland
  • Interests
    Historical figurines, Music, Golf

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  1. Thank You to all the 'Likes'. I'm starting to add the final details before taking care of the mast. For the grapnel, I just changed the angle of the flukes on the grapnel arms to make them more vertical. Once painted, I applied a light veil of weathering powders. The rudder is being finished. I still need to touch up the rounding of the painted bottom frieze and add the tiller. Always a pleasure to work on this longboat.
  2. Thank You to all the 'Likes'. The second layer of wales is added. In order to make the painting easier, I decided to test a wood used by Russian modelers: black hornbeam. I was lucky enough to find a Russian supplier who was able to provide me with some (the same supplier who sold me the pear wood and the american maple used for my bases). So no more worries about paint on the edges... 😁 I'll be able to start planking the hull, starting with its lining.
  3. Thank you to all the 'Likes'. Following the method used by Rusty in his excellent log, I decided to lay the first two rows of hull planking first before proceeding to lay the second layer of wales. For the installation of the drop planks, I proceeded in the classic way. First of all I glued some protective tape on the hull which allowed me to draw the shape of my drop planks. The tape is then glued to a sheet of cardboard and a template is cut out. Once the shape is validated, it is transferred to a cherry sheet. The drop plank is cut with a safety gap. The final shape is then produced by cutting gently with a cutter and finishing with sandpaper. All that remains is to glue the drop plank. I will now be able to apply the second layer of wales.
  4. What a pleasure to have been able to follow this build and the result is just magnificent. You can be proud of this beautiful barge. Can't wait to see your next model !
  5. Great work, Glenn. This Cheerful is really a fabulous model. Thank you for sharing this beautiful work and especially for passing on so many tips and techniques. I look forward to following your work on the Winnie!
  6. Great job on the rigging! This cutter really looks great! And always a wealth of information and techniques. Thanks
  7. Wonderful model! Thank you for taking the time to share this great work with us. What a pleasure to have been able to follow this wonderful adventure.
  8. Thank you to all the Likes. This week, I just added two small details. First, the roller on the bow was turned using the Proxxon DB 250 wood lathe. I used the same lathe to shape the 2 windlass bars from a 1/8" x 1/8" cedar strip. Still a lot of fun to work on these little details and Alaskan yellow cedar is really a nice wood to work with. The more I work with it the more I like it. Next element to be treated: the rudder.
  9. Superb model. You have succeeded in building a magnificent version of this brig. Thank you for sharing.
  10. Thank you Mike for your kind words and thank you to all the 'Likes'. Last week I worked on thole pins. They were made from 3/64" x 3/64" boxwood strips. I first cut the strips into 2 cm long pieces The angles of the strips are blunted with a cutter blade and finally they are rounded with my Proxxon. Finally, they are passed through the Byrnes draw plate to be sure that their diameter is all the same. The holes are drilled on the top of the cap rail and the pins inserted. I used a segment of brass tubing inserted over the drill bit to leave only 3mm of the drill bit protruding. This way I can get holes of the same depth. For the positioning of the thole pins, I first drew their positions on the plan which was then photocopied. I start to place the pins from the stern. I use the same photocopy on the port and starboard sides (it is simply turned over). So the photocopy is initially cut at the position of the second pin at the very back. To drill the first hole of the pair, I built according to the excellent idea found on Ryland Craze's build log (#137) a small jig to drill this hole at the same spacing each time. Once the pairs are inserted to starboard and port, the photocopy is shortened to the position of the second pin of the next pair. Finally, the thole pins are painted red. Next elements to be build: the roller at the bow and the two windlass bars.
  11. Absolutely amazing. It's a perfect realism. You would never think that it is built from wooden elements. It is again a very high level mini-kit! And the paint job and weathering add the final touch of veracity. Thank you for this extraordinary work!
  12. Bravo Bob! The time spent and the patience invested was really worth it. The result is superb!
  13. Thank you Chuck and Steve for your kind words and thank you to all the 'Likes'. Just a little advance: I turned the four belaying pins using a 1/16 x 1/16 boxwood strips. Difficult to reproduce them identically... I still have to coat them with teak oil. I'm going to focus on the thole pins. They too will need to be turned into a boxwood strip.
  14. Thank you to all the 'Likes'. The two side panels have been glued. I then closed the small triangular space on the back of the captain's room with 3 small pearwood boards. They were glued from the outside. I still have to order the necessary material to set up a small lighting in these 2 rooms so that we can still see these details.
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