highlanderburial
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Everything posted by highlanderburial
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I used a lot of epoxy putty and sanding to get the tunnels complete. So far I am glad I did it because the stern will look sharp once the anti fouling paint and draft marks are on. I slapped some black paint on the stern to look for high spots when I sand it a final time. A shipmate sent me a photo of the stern of another FRC soon to be launched. This helped me out so I will post it here. I also started building the roof of the 01 deck and installing bulkheads. These are super tricky and the port and starboard structure rails are different sizes. The instructions are a bit ambiguous with the markings but just got slow and make sure you test fit a few if the basswood "C" bulkheads prior to gluing in the rear C9 flat panel guides.
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There was a lot of thought and fiddling that went into this one but I decided to use scrap Abs strips that were part of the pars spruces. I built the stern up then added strips. Tomorrow I will be hitting the area with epoxy filler and sanding. The shape came out how I wanted it so that was a win.
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I decided to try and make the stern more accurate based on the original design. The stern has defined tunnels which house the rudders. I do not totally have the basis of the structure lined up, but I wanted to get this set prior to putting on forming putty.
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I finally got the courage to cut out the anchor chain tube in the forecastle. The diagrams on where to put the hole in the deck. Use a small bit first and go slow. Move up to a 1/4 inch bit. Slide the 1/4 inch tune up into the hole and cut flush. The boat door was glued up on the stern. The back deck was also cut to fit as a slide in.
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I created a couple of 3D print files today. The props on the FRC's are four bladed. I have seen various photos of the real ships but several of them seem to look different. I settled on the 4 blade model attached here as an .obj file. This kit comes with NO PROPS so you are welcome! In addition I needed two decently scaled rudders to replace the brass flat plate and copper tube stock that Dumas included. While the rudder I made (on the computer) is still not perfect to my liking I will be playing with it. I started the print about 20 minutes ago for the rudder so I want to see if the file is viable in the real world at this point. In 1/48 the rudder from tip to hull protrusion should be about 19mm high. The fore and aft length should be similar at around 17mm at its widest. propeller.obj Rudder final scale.stl
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I have been laying out the rudders. The kit clearly makes some changes from the original cutter for R/C operation. I looked at the actual line drawings of the cutter and see that the rudders are very far back on the actual ship. I scaled the drawing up from 1:50 to 1:48 which is what the kit scale as. The picture I took was of where the kit says to put the rudders stocks.
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The final bow rail pieces were fitted. There is a jig provided in the kit to true these up relative to the deck. Since both pieces extend beyond the stem I decided to simply bend the plastic back and use it as a clamping point. The worked well. They boat well in the stern went in fairly easy but your need to do a bunch of angle tapering to get it to fit. The plans say to sand the pieces flush with the frames. I highly encourage you to do this prior to glueing them in.
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Hull sheeting complete today. I will need to use some filler despite a nice fit up.
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I had to take the kids to visit the Mouse in Florida and now I am back to the build. The hull is made of ABS plastic so I have been using both epoxy and super glue to post the panels.
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Rear transom pieces attached.
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More battens added. Final structure in place. The stern needs sanding as well as the keel at the bow.
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Side battens and keel was put in places. Once again all my careful measurements and leveling have paid off with any amazing fit. By the theme of my photos I would say stock huge amounts of clips to build this kit!
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Laying out the frames and assembling the lateral supports. Really spend some time drawing out where the frames need to go. I glued them down with hot glue. Frames 6 and 10 have a specific orientation so be careful with those 2. The parts slid into place. Use epoxy to glue the supports together to keep them flexible.
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Frames individually assembled w/ 1/8 inch basswood strip.
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Greetings All. I just posted the unboxing video to Youtube: Sorry the quality isn't great. Enjoy.
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It is indeed. After conducting some research the CG found out he had served in the CG in WW2. He earned 2 lifesaving medals while serving.
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Started gluing the frames. Keel pieces are doubled laser cut.
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Greetings All, This is my build log for a USCG FRC (fast response cutter) at a length of 154 feet. This class is only a few years old and even though it is intended for R/C I will be building it as static for display. I will likely post a Youtube video of the unboxing of the kit. So far from what I have seen this looks like a great kit by Dumas! Pictures are from official USCG sources. Hull line diagram is from the actual vessel plans. 154-WPC_85_301_1_-_B.pdf
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3d printing crew figures
highlanderburial replied to highlanderburial's topic in 3D-Printing and Laser-Cutting.
I have the Anycubic Photon. It takes up the same space as a blender. I use a tupperware pickle strainer full of isobutyl alcohol to clean the parts. After cleaning I have a UV Spotlight that shines down on a lazy susan which I can spin to move the object. The total space is maybe 3 feet by 2 feet. I HIGHLY recommend getting a 3D SLA printer to make even routine parts. -
Model ship stations identification help request
highlanderburial replied to highlanderburial's topic in Wood ship model kits
This is a huge help thanks! -
2021 NRG CONFERENCE
highlanderburial replied to kurtvd19's topic in NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
Great thread! I wouldn't mind Toledo. I have never been to their museum and it has been quite some time since I have been there. The Detroit Maritime museum would be a good second choice in this area but ironically the airport is far closer to Toledo than Detroit! TW -
Greetings all, A friend and I were recently donated a large cast off collection of completed ship models by a woman whose relative had died. Among these were 3 built up kits of cross section/stations. One of which was the battle station kit still sold by Mantua. Another is of a "whip staff" steering station which I recall seeing but do not remember who made it. The last appears to be a ships galley complete with oven bricks and galley prisoner? In addition to ship modeling I like to dabble in figure painting in multiple scales. I wanted to put some paint on the figures and use them at club displays or shows for nautical demonstrations. The previous builder apparently painted almost nothing as even his ship models have large quantities of bare pewter/lead exposed. My hope was to find an ad or box cover as a basic guide to see what these were intended to look like. Here are a few of the pictures of the items. I am not new to ship modeling but I am having a hard time even on the internet finding an image of these kits. Thanks in advance, TW
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3d printing crew figures
highlanderburial replied to highlanderburial's topic in 3D-Printing and Laser-Cutting.
The biggest factor for 3d printing figures is the starting digital model (high res or low res) and how fine the printer can print per line. My printer can do lines down to .01 microns (1/10th a human hair roughly) so it can make them pretty fine. To succinctly answer your scale question there are presently 1/350th scale sailors for sail as a low res digital file. For that size it is probably more than adequate for a viewer to see guys with covers arms and legs in various poses that look the part. My biggest concern would be getting something this small off the print bed which usually involves a small flat head screw driver. I am learning to print with supports that make this process less damaging but it is still a learning curve. I would easily think a figure designed for 1/48 could be scaled down to 1/100 with a pretty fair amount of details retained. In the picture is one of my print failures (due to file corruption on the leg). In the picture I printed a female Archer at 1/24th scale, 1/35, 1/52, 1/48. Not pictured was the Archer in 1/87 and 1/96. These were all done using the same file and at the same time. At 1/96 the bow was VERY thin but most of the details translated well. Keep in mind I got this printer with resin for around 275 dollars American. It is NOT the too if the line but will easily do what I need it to. I hope this helps!
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3d printing crew figures
highlanderburial replied to highlanderburial's topic in 3D-Printing and Laser-Cutting.
At first I spent about 6 hours in the free blender program but then just used Hero Forge miniature maker (super fun!) and spent about 20 bucks for the files! -
Greetings all, While I am pretty sure posting anything made from a 3d printer is probably bad form here I wanted to share a side project I worked on over the weekend. I personally love seeing crew figures on model boat/ships but always have a hard time finding them in the scales or poses I want. This weekend I digitally drew out 4 "age of sail" style crew in 4 poses in my 3d aoftware. I then printed them in 1/48 ish scale. The awesome part about having these designs is I can size them up to 40mm or down to 3mm tall. I think they would look at home on a pirate ship or navy vessel depending on how they get painted. In the second photo I have compared my prints to an Amati figure (right) and a 1/48 scale figure on the left. The figure with the saber was literally transposed from a Captain Morgan rum ad! The UV light is used to cure the resin. Has anyone else done this?
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