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About highlanderburial

  • Birthday 03/02/1973

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Glenolden, pa
  • Interests
    Ship modeling, figure painting, bicycling,

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  1. I have the Anycubic Photon. It takes up the same space as a blender. I use a tupperware pickle strainer full of isobutyl alcohol to clean the parts. After cleaning I have a UV Spotlight that shines down on a lazy susan which I can spin to move the object. The total space is maybe 3 feet by 2 feet. I HIGHLY recommend getting a 3D SLA printer to make even routine parts.
  2. Great thread! I wouldn't mind Toledo. I have never been to their museum and it has been quite some time since I have been there. The Detroit Maritime museum would be a good second choice in this area but ironically the airport is far closer to Toledo than Detroit! TW
  3. The biggest factor for 3d printing figures is the starting digital model (high res or low res) and how fine the printer can print per line. My printer can do lines down to .01 microns (1/10th a human hair roughly) so it can make them pretty fine. To succinctly answer your scale question there are presently 1/350th scale sailors for sail as a low res digital file. For that size it is probably more than adequate for a viewer to see guys with covers arms and legs in various poses that look the part. My biggest concern would be getting something this small off the print bed which usually involves
  4. At first I spent about 6 hours in the free blender program but then just used Hero Forge miniature maker (super fun!) and spent about 20 bucks for the files!
  5. Greetings all, While I am pretty sure posting anything made from a 3d printer is probably bad form here I wanted to share a side project I worked on over the weekend. I personally love seeing crew figures on model boat/ships but always have a hard time finding them in the scales or poses I want. This weekend I digitally drew out 4 "age of sail" style crew in 4 poses in my 3d aoftware. I then printed them in 1/48 ish scale. The awesome part about having these designs is I can size them up to 40mm or down to 3mm tall. I think they would look at home on a pirate ship or navy vessel dependi
  6. Final Call! Sorry about the lack of follow up on this one. I struggled to complete this as the kit was infuriatingly inaccurate! I also found out the ship had lined out basketball and shuffleboard courts on the main deck. I added those using super thin pinstripe tape. The hand rails were finished and put in place using some new thinner super glue I got off amazon with a really amazing application tip. Finally here is the real comparison I wanted to from the get go. I constantly get asked how the SS United States compares in size to the Titanic. Well here you go!
  7. Hello


    I watched your you tube on the Bluejacket Revenue Cutter.  I am just starting this model (my first) and hope to see your next video.  As everyone is doing sheltering in place, I have a lot to time to work on it, so I am hoping that the video will be soon.  Any idea when you can post?


    Thanks, Conor

  8. I thought the gaping giant holes in the deck were for a lift boom or something but then saw this little blurb on the instructions.
  9. I used my Dremel to cut all the solid handrails down to deck level. I felt like I was vandalizing the kit but one it was done I liked the look of it much better! You can see the handrail decals in my picture. I am using a Rainbow Photoetch 1/400 replacement. So far so good!
  10. Having finished my Titanic kit I wanted to build the SS United States as a size comparison. The Glencoe kit is one step above "bathtub toy". I intend to replace the decal hand rails with photoetch.
  11. I love Maine shipbuilding history. I bought a Pinky kit to represent a Maine boat without any intention of any historical tie-ins. That model is in my massive pile of kits to build but your emphasis on it here may move it up in my que. Good luck to you sir.
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