NMBROOK

Thank you Tom, but the reality is not so simple as the photos show .
I attached the false rails, main rails are installed on the model.

Your welcome WackoWolf .
I continue with other details on the front part of the main deck. Catheads are already installed, so I can continue with galion.

I continue with riding bitts.

Thanks to all for very nice comments.
To RedDawg - blackening solution is desribed in post  #206, with regard to nuts and bolts I used the following parts that simulate bolts and nuts:
http://www.litomysky.cz/kadee/kad088.htm.
So the guns are finally done, rigging will be added immediately prior to installation aboard.

Thank you guys. Because I have no duplicator, I had to turn each gun separately (many time and many destroyed material).
Details of carriages added.

To Allan - the monogram is not my production, these are made by "etching" company (http://www.etchworks.cz/). Normally are parts etched simultaneously from both side, here is etching made only from one side. Before gluing is necessary to roughen both surfaces (eg. tweezers) then glue adheres well (I had to repair two pieces from 20). The solution for blackening - heated solution water and patina for Tiffany technique (ratio 50 : 1) (http://www.vensy.cz/vensy/eshop/12-1-Tiffany-technika-cinovani/31-2-Chemie-pro-cinovani/5/345-Patina-cerna-tiffany-technika)
 
Carriages assembly.

Monogram is etched from brass 0,2 mm and glued with CA.
The blackening of guns is done a I started preparation of parts for gun carriages.

So the guns are finally done. Now I do not want to see a lathe for a long time.

Stern is completely finished .

Thank you all for nice comments .
I used usual hypodermic needle with diameter 0,8 mm (21G). Needle is carefully ground to the tip - see pictures. As wood is used pear, a necessary condition is that the wood fibers would be parallel to the needle. Is it possible to make treenails with diameter 0,45 mm (needle 0,7 mm 22G). You can see the comparison between 0,55 and 0,45 treenails in the last picture.

The bulkheads and the inner the keel is made of plywood, the outer part of the keel will be made ​​of pear wood. Thanks to the large number of bulkheads (26 pcs) and small gaps between will be done only one planking.

Hi,
A very small wood work...
After B.E.'s and Jason's (Beef Wellington) advice and instruction at October 2013 (how does life flow?!)
I had decided to close the channels...
Now it's time to do it... First step...
(Comparison)

Excellent work Michael and a very detailed and informative insight of the work involved in rigging a model of a larger vessel
I am undecided whether it is better to model a ship with little historical info or one like yours with several sources of info,but ones that at times contradict each other
 
Kind Regards
Nigel

Excellent work Michael and a very detailed and informative insight of the work involved in rigging a model of a larger vessel
I am undecided whether it is better to model a ship with little historical info or one like yours with several sources of info,but ones that at times contradict each other
 
Kind Regards
Nigel

Hi Mates,
 Karl, Ferit, Dave, thanks so much for your so kind thoughts.
---------------------
She is indeed looking like a ship that is almost ready for it’s sinking, very close to closing shop on this one.
 
Yesterday I picked up the base from the wood shop. I’m very happy with the look that I had intended.
 Now need to figure out how to properly secure the keel. Then I will measure the height of the mainmast and have a Plexiglas case built.
 The case will also have eight buffered (rounded) edges adding to the cost, but I think that it will look more “polished” that way.
 The ship will live on that glass counter top cabinet that separates the dining area from the living room. Those photos will be removed and it will take its place near the wall.
 Need to still:
Finish poop deck area
Attach anchors and make the buoys
Paint- touch up various knightheads
Fix broken hull canon doors
Make the keel support structure
            Then open Champagne ha ha
 
Cheers,

 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Mates,
Work in progress update. Have mostly attached all the mainmast area lines, some work still needs to be done along with adjustments here and there. I won't go into details, but my lack of pre-knowledge caused some issues - drilling pin holes above canon openings and behind kevels. Those spaces need to be pin and rope free (now I know).  I re-located and re-drilled some pin holes as best I could, but a few lines could not be moved. There are left-over empty pin holes scares but so be it (learned this for next time)
 
Here are a few updated pics of the mizzen area rigging- still a work area - most lines have not been tensioned or secured. 
 
Regards,

Thanks mates - yup I was ok... 
 
Last photo promise!  - when the Admiral has had enough of me she says, "Why don't you just take your black girlfriend out for a drive." She's an 05 with just shy of 50k on her odometer.
 
Regards, as always.....
 

Almost wants to make us work from the inside center outwards and upwards, so we wouldn't have to reach over.
 
OC.

Mates,
 
Thanks for likes - slight variation on the above technique. Looks a bit more realistic in terms of how rope is "actually" secured around itself - Added a knot - actually also easier to do than the above back side glue/cut/hide bit.
 
here are a couple of updated shots. Minor diff. but just a bit more realistic IMO.

Cheers,

Hi Mates,
Kevin, Don, Denis -  super nice thanks
Here is my technique for making the pin rope coils. Each one takes me about 15 or so minutes. Photos go through each step and are in order.
As always thanks so much for the likes and posts.
Regards,

 

Denis: Thanks I was thinking of posting the technique that seems to work just fine.
It took about 10 or so of these to get what I was hoping for - looking  as they do now. (bow area was a learning area)
 
These last three are what I like much better. Thanks so much for your nice compliment - always appreciated.
Will, in-fact, post the sequence next week - simple enough ----- Heading out of town for the long weekend. 
 
Cheers 
 

Karl : thanks for your post. This, my first effort at rigging a “complicated” ship, is still a learning experience as I move along, and fairly confusing at best. Yes your suggestion will also be incorporated. Thanks for your thoughts.
 
That area will be much more involved than the just (finally) completed bow section. All those ropes were easy to place, and pin-holes were not hiding (;-).
 
Yes, I did some preliminary rope installations at the foremast section and, as I had mentioned - not enough pin-holes. I will add pins to tighten up the lines and also need to avoid crossing things up. Also Karl I am using the rigging sheets that you sent me (Billings), along with the Vasa museum profile sheet - almost ignoring the Corel sheets. In any case - when the Vasa II book is published whatever I do will be wrong - Not an issue for me any more. Just want to make sure that all lines don't cross each other up. Also with furled sails I need to be cautious how I locate certain lines (inside or outside other sail lines)
 
B,E. As always thanks for your continued visits – Your suggestion is very plausible. Much appreciated – I had not thought of that – thanks for your kind words as well.
 
So I have completed the bow section. I promise that these photos will be the last from there !!
 
As always mates thanks so much for your advice, and likes.
 
Cheers,
 

Martyn – much appreciated thanks so much,
 
JanV: Thanks for still following along. Appreciate the compliment as well. Yes, you have been very busy with your house – well worth closing the shipyard for a while.
 
Update NO – but a badly avoided major issue. I share the fix in case others may end up with this problem….and could prevent the possibility beforehand.
 
Was finishing up the bowsprit area rigging details and sort of noticed over the last couple of weeks or so that the bowsprit platform was well “not looking right” wiggling a bit as well – then decided to pay it some real attention.
 
Curses here was the problem! (with the entire section on the verge of collapsing as well). Those of you kind enough to follow and also read along might remember that I had mentioned snapping the flagstaff mast twice. Well that problem was not limited to just that tiny mast.
 

 
The brass wire certainly saved the entire section from collapsing.
 
So the fix:
 
Disconnected those six futtock shrouds as well as that block
 
Slivered in lots of glue into the open gashes,
 
Used forward pressure with other hand to close the wound, re-adjusted the platform - then impaled a drill bit through both masts.
 
Kept adding drill bit depth into the masts by re-adjusting the bit bite on the Dremel – to the point where the drill bit was almost totally inserted.
 
Drill bit stayed there – then used locking tweezers to secure the mess and let the glue cure.
 

 
Added bits of wood to add substantive filler within the gaps – also hoping to add rigidity.
 

 
Then went to another area of the house carrying an empty glass that needed filling (it was Sat night J) and let this wound close up overnight.
 

 
Today: snapped off the end of the drill bit, Dremeled the left over shard.
 
Decided to add a camouflage to the scars, it got really fixed but post-surgery was ugly (:-) and there were unacceptable visible gaps. The slivers of wood do hide the fix, even though not correct.
 
     A                                                            
 

Hi Mates,
 Thanks for your very kind thoughts and likes.
 Section work in progress update:
 
 Moving to the foremast area. This area having so many more shrouds and ropes in areas that are harder to access behind the ratlines has resulted in needing a few more stress “time outs” 
 Also working from three diff. plan sheets that show specific (and diff.) pin and rope attaching locations has increased the workload. Not a complaint = just an observation.
 
Also when I first installed the rails and drilled the pin holes on the upper railings (using Corel instructions way back when) that kit not having running rigging did NOT include the extra needed pinholes. Now needed to drill more rail holes behind ratlines. Will need the same fix when I reach the mainmast.
 
But it will all sort itself out  Here are a few in-progress updated views.
None of the lines have been fixed or adjusted – just sorting out where they "should" go.
 
Regards,

 

Denis,
 
Yes it’s a good technique. It also adds temporary tension to a line with just the pin holding in place allowing for later re-adjusting the lines as needed.
 
Then cutting the extra and adding the coiled rope covers seems to work very well.
 
=======================
 
Also for making coiled ropes:
 
Using painter’s trim tape coil the rope.
Add a film of CA Gel
This will “lock” the spooled coil. And the gel will not bleed through to what will serve as the topside of the coil.
 
I then used small beads of Gorilla wood glue to secure the coil in place on the deck.
 
Had I thought of this much earlier I would have tried to coil all of the canon ropes. Though those ropes are super small almost like thick thread. Hmmm
 
 

 
Almost fished with this section - Last night started the three foremast sails- now that's a mess to figure out.
 
PS: Peter, I'm so happy that you know very little about Viking ships - what a personal relief (:-)))
 
Don Thanks !