NMBROOK

Boats
 
Longboat:  After several unsuccessful attempts to build a plug (see picture) on which to build the boats, I was fortunate to be offered a 1/64 scale version of Chuck's 26 longboat templates.  I have included photos of some of these plugs which were designed for the cutter; I may still use one of them.  These are all sandwich constructed with two of them using vertical slices ('sliced bread loaf') and the other the more tradition 'bread and butter' horizontal slices.
 
When I received the smaller laser cut template from Chuck (many thanks), I did not have intentions of using it; rather, I was more interested in the larger 1:48 version he had created.  However, when I looked more closely at the smaller scale version provided by Chuck, I noted that, with very little modification, it fitted nicely to the dimensions of Endeavour's Longboat as described by both Ray Parkin and Karl Marquardt.

Both authors agree that a shorter and fatter (in the beam) design would have been required, with the shorter length to allow it to be stowed without interfering with the workings of the ship.  The wider beam allowed the boat to carry the required cargo, especially water casks.  By removing a couple of the middle frames from Chuck's design, the length and beam of the resulting longboat was correct to 1:60 scale for Ray Parkin's version for the construction of the longboat (94 mm x 35mm x 20mm).  However, I used Marquardt as the reference for the most likely fitting-out of the boat.
 
According to Parkin, the longboat would have been clinker built rather than carvel to provide a more robust boat that could be used to conduct the intended close-in coastal surveying (which I am assuming Cook would have wanted).  I have also adopted the two mast design with a sliding gunter rig, as this is what was clearly shown by the embarked artist, Sydney Parkinson (expedition artist/illustrator), in his sketches of the ship's boats.
 

 


The following photographs show the construction process for the longboat using Chuck's sacrificial bulkhead system to create the
skeleton/ribs of the boat. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The following photograph shows the near completed longboat; I have still to complete the oars, grapnel, masts etc.  I have painted the longboat mainly white as I believe it would have assisted with temperature control in the tropics, and provided higher visibility for the Endeavour's crew to monitor her movements during survey and coastal work.
 

Pumps and Bitts
 
The pumps are made from accessories I purchased and modified slightly; overall I am happy with the result.   The bits and rails are made from walnut and fitted with after-market belaying pins (walnut).  Although not very clearly shown in these shots, I have fitted brass sheaves (2 per riser).  I just hope I have fitted all of the deck bolts required as it will be an nightmare trying to place them around the mast in the future.
 
There is a big colour difference shown in the photos here as I have just bought a new digital SLR camera and I am still trying to get the white balance right.


 

Capstan
 
The capstan is a heavily bashed version of the kit supplied accessory.  I have enlarged and squared the capstan bar holes and added the ratchet pawl slots and pawls.  There is a pawl fitted on either side to create the 'brake' for controilling movement in either direction of rotation.  I am not sure yet whether I will make capstan bars for this build.

Binnacle
 
The binnacle shown is my second attempt as the first was a little oversized.  It is based on the design shown by Marquardt but with some modifications.  This will be secured to eyebolts when the rigging to the mizzen mast has been completed so as not to damage it.
 

 

Aft Deck Furniture

The tiller arm was made from 4mm square walnut soaked in hot-water and bent n a fomer to provide the curvature.  This was not easy and I had several attempts at it until I understood I needed a curved former rather than pegs in a board to use as the shape former.
 
The horse-shoe extension provides clearance for the 'charlie noble' for the Captain's cabin stove.  The 'iron horse' rail abaft the rudder is for the mizzen boom sheet tackle block.  As a test of my metal working, I made the Ensign staff bracket to open and close (at scale 1:60) - a complete waste of time but very self-satisfying .  All metal work in this build has been blackened using Brass Black which I have described in a Tutorial located here; however, in some places I have needed to touch-up with a bit of black paint, where I have damaged the finishin while fitting the part.
 
I have mostly shown the deck furniture arrangements as depicted by Marquardt, but modified it in some places as built for the replica.  Some items in particular that differ are the rudder head house, the platform over the tiller, and the bowsprit arrangement between the knightheads at the stem.
 

 

 
The ship's wheel is a mix of the kit provided metal support posts and wood barrel, and a modified after-market accessory (boxwood) wheel to which I thinned down and added the brass shim circular trims.  I have punched the brass to simulate the screw fastenings.  I really should have used a scale device or object in some of these photos as the size (at 1:60) caused me some difficulty which sometimes proved very disheartening.
 
The circular 'quadrant or rim straps' were cut by sandwiching the brass shim between two very thin pieces of Medium-Density Fibreboard (MDF), cutting the circles with a coping saw, and filing to finish the edges and then punched to simulate the screws.  And yep, I got a little carried away, even put a fancy rope work on the centre or 'king' spoke of the wheel.
 


Whether the skylight protective bars looked like the ones I have built, or in the more popular/traditional vertical bars will never be known.  I went with this option as this design would allow for more light through the windows while still protecting against falling spars etc (and to be truthful, easier to solder .  The skylight and companionway would have been removed when working the capstan, with the companionway adjusted as required to maintain the entry doors aligned to leeward.
 

Lantern

This was an accessory I purchased (Amati I think) and assembled and painted.  I chose it as it was relatively the right size.  This proved a bit fiddly as I had to edge glue the wired frames between the edges of adjoining plastic panes.  I am thinking of rebuilding this from scratch.

Hi again folks, another small update.  I have started to dry assemble the mast components to check for fit, alignment etc.  The following photo shows the start of the Fore Mast.
 
Thanks for looking in Dave and for your most kind comments - still learning quite a bit as I progress
 

Upper Masts
 
The upper masts were fashioned much like the process used for the lower masts.  I have tried to make these from a single piece so that they are straight and stronger.  With one exception I managed this but the Mizzen top mast "got away from me" when I was milling the six-sided conical shapes and I had to cut it out and pin a new one in.

To ensure I had enough 'meat' in the stock for each process, I learned the hard way that I had to leave enough meat (diameter) in the round for the size of the future conical pieces and the masts caps etc and do a double taper design.


 

 
Well, that's me caught up folks, I hope you find this log useful.

Tops
 
With the lower masts constructed, I have moved onto the tops and as you can see, my planking technique is improving but I have some way to go yet.  I do not intend using plank joint trennels on the tops as the scale is much too small.  I have now tried several different ways of simulating the caulking and have settled on using a 2B pencil rubbed along one edge of the plank as the best finish at this scale.
 


The trestle-trees are just loosely fitted and will be adjusted to their correct position when the tops are fitted to the masts.  I have yet to do the trennels for the platforms.
 
It took me a while to determine the best technique to create the futtock deadeyes and straps.   Eventually I realised that I could create the eye for the deadeye from brass wire.  Soldering this closed is not such a problem as these deadeyes are black, and a coat of Raven Oil soon hides any char/scorch marks.  I then flattened the tail using a pair of flat jaw pliers (no grip pattern on the inside of the jaws).  Once the tail has been flattened and cut to length I drill a small hole for the hooks that will secure the futtock shrouds.
 

 

 
The completed top platforms are shown below along with the futtock deadeyes ready for mounting when I assemble the masts.
 

Hi again folks, a small update to the build.  I have been busy preparing some details for the rigging.  The ropewalk is now up and running along with my server and I have manage to produce a couple of shrouds etc with a decent serving on the fore shroud of the front pair (mizzen).  Not happy with the length of these so I will probably redo them.  I also have to repair a chain plate that came adrift under pressure but unsure whether to attempt this on the model or remove the channel edge strip (afraid I may damage the whole channel though in doing so) and then replace the whole chain with deadeye after repair.
 
One of the photos shows my  rigging station which is being modified as I find better ways to setup various rigging activities.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

I have been experimenting with jigs for weaving the sock on the mouse for the stays and preventers and have almost got to a final solution.  The first of the photos below shows an early attempt using plastic discs with slots cut (alternate slots to a deeper depth) - proved too flimsy and difficult to control.  The second jig is working out OK but I made the mistake of setting up an even number of strands to weave around.  The temporary fix is to skip one of the strands at the top, but this tends to leave a slightly more open weave along this axis.  I have to re make this jig with a spacing that will permit an odd count.  I have drilled an inner and an outer set of holes to facilitate weaving under/over but I have found at my scale (1:60) that this is too many strands; but, the additional holes will be useful for 1:48 builds. 
 
I hope the photos are self-evident.  One of the photos shows a finished Mizzen stay, but I will probably redo this, as close examination shows the uneven weave along one axis (although partially hidden by the loop).  These jig ideas are not original and I have borrowed ideas from several members build logs - thanks to all.
 
Please note that the larger thread/strands shown are only to enhance the photo, and the alternate colour is to enhance the weave pattern in the photo - I am using a much smaller thread for the actual mouse at this scale of 1:60.

Hi folks, a small update having rebuilt the broken jib and doing some repairs.  In the interim I have made the gaff, and started the standing rigging for the jib and mizzen mast.  The close up photos have been sharpened to show the rope and rigging detail which has highlighted some rope fuzz and raggedy ends that needs repairs.  Unfortunately this photo process also shows all the dents etc in the wood and exposed a few paint touch-ups that are required ( a good thing I suppose )
 
 
 
All comments and constructive criticism appreciated.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

Hello Pat,
you are doing a very very good work, very clean.
usually I don't make any comment on the build logs, since I prefer to simply watch.
But since you, as I did in the past, are making a kit bashed Endeavour, I want to warn you about the boomkins problem.
Following the drawings of the book, I installed the boomkins, with related rigging.
Unfortunately, the rigging of the boomkin don't allows a "free" movement of the anchor.
The anchor is "trapped" between the boomkin rigging.
The final result is rather "false" if evaluated by an expert sailor.
I didn't find a good solution, since it was too late to make modifications on the boomkins, as you can see in the photos made during the model making.
Probably a different bending angle was needed or a different lenght of the boomkin.
 
So, since you are still in time, check the theoretical rigging position of the boomkins!
Beware of the boomkins! they are tricky!
 

Having recently read Richard Ensor's 'Restoration warship' he does state that recoil was far more violent with bronze cannons,than with iron.An absolute mountain of research went into the book,so I am inclined to agree with him.He doesn't go in to any great reasoning other than to say that many bronze cannon's would develop stress fractures in service which would worsen the problem.I know the time period being generally discussed is perhaps a little later and concerns iron cannons but thought I would add this as it is relevant.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Having recently read Richard Ensor's 'Restoration warship' he does state that recoil was far more violent with bronze cannons,than with iron.An absolute mountain of research went into the book,so I am inclined to agree with him.He doesn't go in to any great reasoning other than to say that many bronze cannon's would develop stress fractures in service which would worsen the problem.I know the time period being generally discussed is perhaps a little later and concerns iron cannons but thought I would add this as it is relevant.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Cheers mate! Yeah they do add to her lines.
 
/Matti

Tom, I'm noticing that every step of the way now requires me to check plans, check sources, go back to checking plans and line things up to make sure all of my drawings are to scale.
 
Popeye, the defects are minor thankfully.
 
John, I don't use the disc sander that much, I don't have the control with it like I do with the spindle sander.
 
Nigel, my plan is to install the gundeck and some bracing for the upper bulwarks and then plank the hull. I'm still wrestling with leaving some spar decking off to show the gundeck. We'll see...
 
As always, thanks for looking in. I'm in the process of finishing the bulkheads and getting them in place. Some are tight enough that right now they are introducing some warp to the keel.

I usually airbrush large areas.  My hands are not that steady. However one thing a club member who is also an artist said one time is that the size of your brush makes a difference as well.  He said most artists use the largest brush they have as much as possible as to eliminate or minimize overlapping and uneveness and use the smaller brushes for detail work.
David B

Nigel.. I'm beginning to think it is a conspiracy  
 
E

She is looking good mate  Sorry to hear you are at the mercy of the postman again  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Photo Time.. WooHoo  (I know I know, I really spoil ye..  )
 
The Stern Post is in place, and the Hull is pretty much finished with sanding (it might get the odd gentle rub as I progress though)
 
You can see the Hawse Hole (where the Anchor Rope would go through the hull) re-enforcing I put in place, it isn't called for in the 'Plans' but I kinda figured it to be an area that would have been built up to combat wear 'n tear ! it hasn't been fully shaped & filed totally smooth yet .
 
The Wales are made from  2@  3 x 1 mm Beech lengths I had in stock, and will ultimately be painted black. The wale hasn't been shaped properly at the stern yet, but isn't too far off (possibly a little filling required at the very after-most part to blend it into the transom)
 
See I haven't been slacking off.. much..  
 
Take Care Folks
 
Eamonn
PS Still no Deck Timber.. and it was sent this day last week, fingers crossed for next week then
 
 
 
 

They look fantastic in position mate!The ship was missing something before as they are a very prominent feature.I was unsure if billings supplied them and you simply hadn't got round to fitting them.You have answered my question
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks for the nice comments and likes everybody, most appreciated!
 
Scott, just go for it, it's fun.
 
MarisStella, I ment the sculptures that were not included in the kit. I'm thinking of maybe four more, but I need to consider if I can make them. Sorry for being vague.
 
Karleop they sit at the corners below the lower galleries.
 
I mounted them yesterday. For me it's a big change in her appearence, but I'm looking at her everyday. At the same time I hope the carved ones blend with the originals.  
 
 

 

 
 
/Matti
 
 

Great work mate!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I can attest to the methods described by Alistair, as I also use brushing for large paint areas.  Especially what he said about not scrimping on brush quality -- they're one thing I have found that you DO get what you pay for.  Get good ones, treat them nice, and they'll serve you well for years.