NMBROOK

Lower Masts
 
The next task was to make a start on the masts.  Unfortunately, in my early days of construction I did not fit partners.  I am currently trying to determine a good way to add these without making them an obviously tacked on afterthought – another valuable lesson learned.
 
After some experimenting with turning on the lathe etc, I found the best method to create the compound tapers of the masts was:
Reduce square stock to an octagon, and then to 16 sided, using a v-channel and small jack plane.  I put the marked square stock into v-channel which is held in a vice.  A small bolt at one end provides a stop for the stock while I shoot; the bolt head is set at a height that will not catch the blade at the smallest dimension of the reduced stock. Chuck and spin the reduced stock in the lathe while using various grades of sandpaper to create the round at the appropriate diameters.  I used a digital calliper to measure the diameter, stopping more frequently to check measure the closer I arrived to the required dimension. I then used the mill to cut the flat faces for the fish and cheeks and upper flats.  The angle plate attachment is ideal for adjusting the spar to a angle that when held in a machine vice, produces an even cut along to the tapered angle of the mast, to ensure a level cut.
 
I have used vinyl pin stripe tape (used to simulate racing strips for RC cars) to simulate the recessed steel bands, and thin strips of negative plates (used in the printing industry) to simulate the iron bands where they stand proud.  The negative has a flat black finish which looks like blackened brass, and is to handle and glue with CA (gel).
 

 

 

Bowsprit and Jib Boom
 
The first spars to be produced were the bowsprit and jib-boom.  I have used the design of the solid/joined knightheads found on the Endeavour replica.  As this was to be painted I made it as a solid piece rather than constructing the chock between the knightheads. 

After dimensioning the bowsprit, I soaked it in boiling water for 20 minutes and left it to dry on a former under clamping pressure.  I have used brass sheaves in the bee, and
created a recess with and iron clasp in the bowsprit cap to hold the Jack staff which will be fitted when I have completed the rigging.


 


I have used Huon Pine for the jib boom and masts and stained them with Bushman's stain.  This is an Australian product made from natural products found in our bush.  The resulting finish is very close in appearance to the varnished masts seen on the Endeavour replica.
 

Catheads, Fish Davit and Boomkins

To determine the correct positioning of the catheads and boomkins, I scanned and overlayed then scaled the Marquardt drawings over a scanned copy of the plan from the kit.  By resizing these in Photoshop to ensure I was using the correct scale (1:60), I was able to determine their relative position on the forecastle as shown in the graphic.  I also tried to ensure the fixings for these aligned with longitudinal beams (strength).
 


The boomkins are made from Huon Pine that have been reduced to a dowel from square stock, then tapered with sandpaper while spinning the dowel in the lathe.  I then bent the completed dowel around a former after soaking in boiling water and leaving to dry under clamping pressure.
 

 


The fish davit is made from 4mm square walnut stock and is fitted with brass sheaves.  The difference in the photo colour and brightness is the result of a change in camera and I am still trying to get the white balance right for the new one.
 

Belfry
 
The belfry is scratch built from a 4mm square walnut stock with hand shaped shoulders and caps.  The small bell was acquired as an after-market accessory.  The pawls for the windlass brake, are fitted either side of the aft side of the belfrey post.

Windlass
 
This was an interesting exercise that resulted in acceptable (but not great) result.  I have learned a lot from this activity, and I will use a harder wood for the barrel in future efforts.  The windlass barrel was formed by grinding/sanding flats along the length at an angle to create the camber; next time I will use a cutter.   I did this using a mill with angle table attachment to have a level grinding surface but apply the correct degree of bevel.  I am also a little unhappy with the alignment of some of the pawl holes in the finished product.

I recut the carrick pieces from wood rather than use the metal versions provided in the kit; however, I did retain the carved heads and refitted them (too lazy to carve them myself ).  The pawl notches are a small cog taken from an electric cordless drill (thanks Neptune for this idea and for the cog).  I have not fitted the cable cleats yet as they will be too delicate and would suffer during the rigging process.  They will need to be fitted before I fit the foremast shrouds.
 

 

 

 

 

Armaments

Endeavour sailed with 10 x 4-pounder canon, 6 were mounted on deck and four in the hold which were brought up for shore defence when the ship was in Tahiti.  The actual positioning of the deck canon is open to conjecture; some depictions have a pair on the quarterdeck.  I think this latter configuration unlikely as it would have interfered with the working of the ship, especially during survey.
 

 

 

 
In the following photograph, the canon are shown mounted in-situ with barrels blackened (old photo - before I replaced the breech ropes).  Only the breeching ropes have been fitted as fitting the various tackles etc looks a little too 'busy' at this scale.  However, I may yet be tempted to have them fitted in a 'stowed-for-sea' configuration.
 


The ship was also fitted with 12 swivel guns, the posts for which I have made from Huon pine and shaped to octagonal before notching to fit against the cap rails, and bolted to the outside of the quarterdeck.  I simulated the bolts at the base and cap rails of these posts, and elsewhere, with brass pins for which I had filed the round heads flat and square.  I was able to do this using a hand-vice (pictured) and needle files.  The swivels will be fitted after completion of the rigging.


 

 

Boat Stowage
 
The boats are mounted to the gallows rails which are lashed (still to be done) to the spar gallows in the waist, as shown in the following photograph.  One of the perils (or advantages depending on how you look at it) of close-up photography is that it shows blemishes much more clearly than viewed by the naked eye under ambient light.  One further touch-up job I have is to put another coat of blue on the upper strake of the longboat and then add the yellow ochre rubbing strakes.
 
The Cutter and the Yawl are yet to be made and will be nested on/within the existing boats using chocks sitting on the thwarts.  Gripes and sea lashings will be fitted on completion.

Pinnace: The pinnace was made using the more traditional method of a plug (or mould) to build the shell (planking) into which subsequently the ribs were added. Chuck was kind enough to reduce the plans for his pinnace design for me to build from.  However,, this tie I was not able to use his construction techniques, as unless the sacrificial bulkheads are cut by laser, they are too fragile to use at this scale.

Chuck's pinnace design with the false/extended transom removed, was an almost identical fit to that proposed by Marquardt, so these plans were a great start to this mini-project.
 
 

 

 

 

 

Boats
 
Longboat:  After several unsuccessful attempts to build a plug (see picture) on which to build the boats, I was fortunate to be offered a 1/64 scale version of Chuck's 26 longboat templates.  I have included photos of some of these plugs which were designed for the cutter; I may still use one of them.  These are all sandwich constructed with two of them using vertical slices ('sliced bread loaf') and the other the more tradition 'bread and butter' horizontal slices.
 
When I received the smaller laser cut template from Chuck (many thanks), I did not have intentions of using it; rather, I was more interested in the larger 1:48 version he had created.  However, when I looked more closely at the smaller scale version provided by Chuck, I noted that, with very little modification, it fitted nicely to the dimensions of Endeavour's Longboat as described by both Ray Parkin and Karl Marquardt.

Both authors agree that a shorter and fatter (in the beam) design would have been required, with the shorter length to allow it to be stowed without interfering with the workings of the ship.  The wider beam allowed the boat to carry the required cargo, especially water casks.  By removing a couple of the middle frames from Chuck's design, the length and beam of the resulting longboat was correct to 1:60 scale for Ray Parkin's version for the construction of the longboat (94 mm x 35mm x 20mm).  However, I used Marquardt as the reference for the most likely fitting-out of the boat.
 
According to Parkin, the longboat would have been clinker built rather than carvel to provide a more robust boat that could be used to conduct the intended close-in coastal surveying (which I am assuming Cook would have wanted).  I have also adopted the two mast design with a sliding gunter rig, as this is what was clearly shown by the embarked artist, Sydney Parkinson (expedition artist/illustrator), in his sketches of the ship's boats.
 

 


The following photographs show the construction process for the longboat using Chuck's sacrificial bulkhead system to create the
skeleton/ribs of the boat. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The following photograph shows the near completed longboat; I have still to complete the oars, grapnel, masts etc.  I have painted the longboat mainly white as I believe it would have assisted with temperature control in the tropics, and provided higher visibility for the Endeavour's crew to monitor her movements during survey and coastal work.
 

Pumps and Bitts
 
The pumps are made from accessories I purchased and modified slightly; overall I am happy with the result.   The bits and rails are made from walnut and fitted with after-market belaying pins (walnut).  Although not very clearly shown in these shots, I have fitted brass sheaves (2 per riser).  I just hope I have fitted all of the deck bolts required as it will be an nightmare trying to place them around the mast in the future.
 
There is a big colour difference shown in the photos here as I have just bought a new digital SLR camera and I am still trying to get the white balance right.


 

Capstan
 
The capstan is a heavily bashed version of the kit supplied accessory.  I have enlarged and squared the capstan bar holes and added the ratchet pawl slots and pawls.  There is a pawl fitted on either side to create the 'brake' for controilling movement in either direction of rotation.  I am not sure yet whether I will make capstan bars for this build.

Binnacle
 
The binnacle shown is my second attempt as the first was a little oversized.  It is based on the design shown by Marquardt but with some modifications.  This will be secured to eyebolts when the rigging to the mizzen mast has been completed so as not to damage it.
 

 

Aft Deck Furniture

The tiller arm was made from 4mm square walnut soaked in hot-water and bent n a fomer to provide the curvature.  This was not easy and I had several attempts at it until I understood I needed a curved former rather than pegs in a board to use as the shape former.
 
The horse-shoe extension provides clearance for the 'charlie noble' for the Captain's cabin stove.  The 'iron horse' rail abaft the rudder is for the mizzen boom sheet tackle block.  As a test of my metal working, I made the Ensign staff bracket to open and close (at scale 1:60) - a complete waste of time but very self-satisfying .  All metal work in this build has been blackened using Brass Black which I have described in a Tutorial located here; however, in some places I have needed to touch-up with a bit of black paint, where I have damaged the finishin while fitting the part.
 
I have mostly shown the deck furniture arrangements as depicted by Marquardt, but modified it in some places as built for the replica.  Some items in particular that differ are the rudder head house, the platform over the tiller, and the bowsprit arrangement between the knightheads at the stem.
 

 

 
The ship's wheel is a mix of the kit provided metal support posts and wood barrel, and a modified after-market accessory (boxwood) wheel to which I thinned down and added the brass shim circular trims.  I have punched the brass to simulate the screw fastenings.  I really should have used a scale device or object in some of these photos as the size (at 1:60) caused me some difficulty which sometimes proved very disheartening.
 
The circular 'quadrant or rim straps' were cut by sandwiching the brass shim between two very thin pieces of Medium-Density Fibreboard (MDF), cutting the circles with a coping saw, and filing to finish the edges and then punched to simulate the screws.  And yep, I got a little carried away, even put a fancy rope work on the centre or 'king' spoke of the wheel.
 


Whether the skylight protective bars looked like the ones I have built, or in the more popular/traditional vertical bars will never be known.  I went with this option as this design would allow for more light through the windows while still protecting against falling spars etc (and to be truthful, easier to solder .  The skylight and companionway would have been removed when working the capstan, with the companionway adjusted as required to maintain the entry doors aligned to leeward.
 

Lantern

This was an accessory I purchased (Amati I think) and assembled and painted.  I chose it as it was relatively the right size.  This proved a bit fiddly as I had to edge glue the wired frames between the edges of adjoining plastic panes.  I am thinking of rebuilding this from scratch.

Hi again folks, another small update.  I have started to dry assemble the mast components to check for fit, alignment etc.  The following photo shows the start of the Fore Mast.
 
Thanks for looking in Dave and for your most kind comments - still learning quite a bit as I progress
 

Upper Masts
 
The upper masts were fashioned much like the process used for the lower masts.  I have tried to make these from a single piece so that they are straight and stronger.  With one exception I managed this but the Mizzen top mast "got away from me" when I was milling the six-sided conical shapes and I had to cut it out and pin a new one in.

To ensure I had enough 'meat' in the stock for each process, I learned the hard way that I had to leave enough meat (diameter) in the round for the size of the future conical pieces and the masts caps etc and do a double taper design.


 

 
Well, that's me caught up folks, I hope you find this log useful.

Tops
 
With the lower masts constructed, I have moved onto the tops and as you can see, my planking technique is improving but I have some way to go yet.  I do not intend using plank joint trennels on the tops as the scale is much too small.  I have now tried several different ways of simulating the caulking and have settled on using a 2B pencil rubbed along one edge of the plank as the best finish at this scale.
 


The trestle-trees are just loosely fitted and will be adjusted to their correct position when the tops are fitted to the masts.  I have yet to do the trennels for the platforms.
 
It took me a while to determine the best technique to create the futtock deadeyes and straps.   Eventually I realised that I could create the eye for the deadeye from brass wire.  Soldering this closed is not such a problem as these deadeyes are black, and a coat of Raven Oil soon hides any char/scorch marks.  I then flattened the tail using a pair of flat jaw pliers (no grip pattern on the inside of the jaws).  Once the tail has been flattened and cut to length I drill a small hole for the hooks that will secure the futtock shrouds.
 

 

 
The completed top platforms are shown below along with the futtock deadeyes ready for mounting when I assemble the masts.
 

Hi again folks, a small update to the build.  I have been busy preparing some details for the rigging.  The ropewalk is now up and running along with my server and I have manage to produce a couple of shrouds etc with a decent serving on the fore shroud of the front pair (mizzen).  Not happy with the length of these so I will probably redo them.  I also have to repair a chain plate that came adrift under pressure but unsure whether to attempt this on the model or remove the channel edge strip (afraid I may damage the whole channel though in doing so) and then replace the whole chain with deadeye after repair.
 
One of the photos shows my  rigging station which is being modified as I find better ways to setup various rigging activities.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

I have been experimenting with jigs for weaving the sock on the mouse for the stays and preventers and have almost got to a final solution.  The first of the photos below shows an early attempt using plastic discs with slots cut (alternate slots to a deeper depth) - proved too flimsy and difficult to control.  The second jig is working out OK but I made the mistake of setting up an even number of strands to weave around.  The temporary fix is to skip one of the strands at the top, but this tends to leave a slightly more open weave along this axis.  I have to re make this jig with a spacing that will permit an odd count.  I have drilled an inner and an outer set of holes to facilitate weaving under/over but I have found at my scale (1:60) that this is too many strands; but, the additional holes will be useful for 1:48 builds. 
 
I hope the photos are self-evident.  One of the photos shows a finished Mizzen stay, but I will probably redo this, as close examination shows the uneven weave along one axis (although partially hidden by the loop).  These jig ideas are not original and I have borrowed ideas from several members build logs - thanks to all.
 
Please note that the larger thread/strands shown are only to enhance the photo, and the alternate colour is to enhance the weave pattern in the photo - I am using a much smaller thread for the actual mouse at this scale of 1:60.

Hi folks, a small update having rebuilt the broken jib and doing some repairs.  In the interim I have made the gaff, and started the standing rigging for the jib and mizzen mast.  The close up photos have been sharpened to show the rope and rigging detail which has highlighted some rope fuzz and raggedy ends that needs repairs.  Unfortunately this photo process also shows all the dents etc in the wood and exposed a few paint touch-ups that are required ( a good thing I suppose )
 
 
 
All comments and constructive criticism appreciated.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

Hello Pat,
you are doing a very very good work, very clean.
usually I don't make any comment on the build logs, since I prefer to simply watch.
But since you, as I did in the past, are making a kit bashed Endeavour, I want to warn you about the boomkins problem.
Following the drawings of the book, I installed the boomkins, with related rigging.
Unfortunately, the rigging of the boomkin don't allows a "free" movement of the anchor.
The anchor is "trapped" between the boomkin rigging.
The final result is rather "false" if evaluated by an expert sailor.
I didn't find a good solution, since it was too late to make modifications on the boomkins, as you can see in the photos made during the model making.
Probably a different bending angle was needed or a different lenght of the boomkin.
 
So, since you are still in time, check the theoretical rigging position of the boomkins!
Beware of the boomkins! they are tricky!
 

Having recently read Richard Ensor's 'Restoration warship' he does state that recoil was far more violent with bronze cannons,than with iron.An absolute mountain of research went into the book,so I am inclined to agree with him.He doesn't go in to any great reasoning other than to say that many bronze cannon's would develop stress fractures in service which would worsen the problem.I know the time period being generally discussed is perhaps a little later and concerns iron cannons but thought I would add this as it is relevant.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Having recently read Richard Ensor's 'Restoration warship' he does state that recoil was far more violent with bronze cannons,than with iron.An absolute mountain of research went into the book,so I am inclined to agree with him.He doesn't go in to any great reasoning other than to say that many bronze cannon's would develop stress fractures in service which would worsen the problem.I know the time period being generally discussed is perhaps a little later and concerns iron cannons but thought I would add this as it is relevant.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Cheers mate! Yeah they do add to her lines.
 
/Matti

Tom, I'm noticing that every step of the way now requires me to check plans, check sources, go back to checking plans and line things up to make sure all of my drawings are to scale.
 
Popeye, the defects are minor thankfully.
 
John, I don't use the disc sander that much, I don't have the control with it like I do with the spindle sander.
 
Nigel, my plan is to install the gundeck and some bracing for the upper bulwarks and then plank the hull. I'm still wrestling with leaving some spar decking off to show the gundeck. We'll see...
 
As always, thanks for looking in. I'm in the process of finishing the bulkheads and getting them in place. Some are tight enough that right now they are introducing some warp to the keel.