
zoly99sask
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zoly99sask reacted to Dan Vadas in HMVS Cerberus 1870 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - Paper Shipwright - 1:250 - CARD
Be my guest Ken .
The sides of the hull fitted up pretty well, but there's a fair amount of thouching-up to do where the stark white edges of the paper join the black of the sides of the deck :
The damage to the paint here was caused by attempting to get a hollow out of the superstructure deck :
I'm using an Archival Ink pen to fix the problem. I've done a bit around the top of the stern bulwark and it looks like it'll do the job :
Most of the Superstructure fitted :
Danny
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zoly99sask reacted to Dan Vadas in HMVS Cerberus 1870 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - Paper Shipwright - 1:250 - CARD
Welcome Grant and Rick .
Folding and gluing the tabs took me 2 hours on the base. I let it dry overnight. The deck only took me an hour, maybe I'm getting better at it . They look rough in the closeup pic, but it's only shadows - they are all perfectly flat, which would have been impossible or at least VERY difficult without the balsa fillers.
When the deck dried there was a very slight amount of "hogging" - with one end flat on the table the other end was about 1.5mm high. Very easy to bend flat, I'm sure that when I fit the side panels it'll all be good :
Danny
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zoly99sask reacted to Dan Vadas in HMVS Cerberus 1870 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - Paper Shipwright - 1:250 - CARD
Thanks Eddie.
I've shaped and glued in all the balsa filler blocks. I only glued them to one side of each bulkhead in case they pulled the base out of alignment :
Danny
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zoly99sask reacted to Dan Vadas in HMVS Cerberus 1870 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - Paper Shipwright - 1:250 - CARD
Thanks Hornet, John and Slog.
A reasonable afternoon's work, after puzzling for an hour or so about what goes where, and what to cut etc . The bulkheads are glued to the base, and all tabs are scored and folded. I'm going to glue some balsa between the bulkheads along the edges to make gluing the sides on easier. I can forsee that I'd have a few problems with getting a sharp fold on some of the deck tabs otherwise.
Danny
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zoly99sask reacted to RGL in IJN Isuzu 1945 by RGL - FINISHED - Aoshima - 1/350 - PLASTIC - Light Cruiser
Testing out some new stuff on an old hull, chipping and wearing. I'm thinking if I can do a decent sets of ribs on the hull in black and dark rust, a coat of varnish then some of these fluids, I can beat the hull up pretty well.
I just have to figure if i complete the hull painting completely then wear it back.
This is is a bit severe but I like the effect
I also want to try and add barnacles over the top. Let's see.
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zoly99sask reacted to Captain Slog in Borodino by Captain Slog - Dom Bumagi - 1:200 - CARD
Hi Eddie, thanks for dropping by.
Hi Danny, glad it is of help, look forward to you starting your AMATSUKAZE.
Thanks to everyone for the likes, it is greatly appreciated.
Well I have finally got spare time on my R&Rs to get some modelling done. It was near the end of March since I last picked up a knife! Hopefully the rest of them should be free for a bit.
Some progress to show. If you remember the port hole and mylar on the upper starboard hull skin caused a bit of buckling where it bent round the curve. Well before fitting the port side skin I managed to pick out the photo-etch ring and slice the mylar off the rear without damaging the skin.
I glued on some new mylar ‘glass’ and fitted the skin to the hull and it still had a bit of buckling around the curve although not as bad as the starboard side with both mylar and porthole. After fitting of the skin I cleaned up a new porthole and bent it to a bit of a curve and dropped it back into place.
With both upper skins on I could finally glue into place the rear lower deck followed by both side decking. I had to spend a fair bit of time trimming and offering up until satisfied with the fit. I reckon this is a result of my previous form work and not a deficiency of the kit. The side skins have been a perfect fit to date.
With the rear and side decks now fitted I can now continue with the remainder of the skins. The rear skin was pretty straight forward noting that the fore section of it tucks under the side deck and is covered by the last side skin.
The thin line of former showing below the skin is not an issue as there is a final belt to go over this lower section which will hide a lot of sins. This belt also closes off the very rear of the hull
A couple of shots of the skin where it wraps round the 3” gun openings. This was a bit tricky due to the close together changes of direction but turned out not to bad.
Although I still have the rest of the day to model I like to stop after doing a hull skin or two as I find them quite stressful and don’t like to push my luck LOL.
Cheers
Slog
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zoly99sask reacted to Captain Slog in Borodino by Captain Slog - Dom Bumagi - 1:200 - CARD
Hi All,
A bit more progress on the hull skins.
First up is the upper rear port skin to match the starboard side done last time. Not perfect but happy enough.
With both rear side skins on I could do the rear bulkhead. The hatches 14b are supplied with inner and outer surfaces so decide to remove the entrances so I could attach the doors ajar later down the track.
The hatches 14c are also doubled but didn’t remove them as will just attach in the closed position.
A photo showing the other side. The rear deck is only temporary in place as I will wait until the lower skins are fitted so I can do final tweeks before fixing. I am not sure if the little white triangles left between the rear and sides have a part to cover them; if not I will either just paint black or fit little paper ones.
The front upper starboard skin now attached.
I was able to determine I can manoeuvre the 3” guns through the gun ports later, which is a relief as they wouldn’t have survived the skinning process otherwise.
A close up of the skin going up and over the bridging structure. This is the only area of the side skinning so far I am not totally happy with. Despite taking care to pre-roll the curve and press home with a rolling motion using a flat smooth ruler I got a bit of buckling right on the bend. I am a 100% certain this is due to the porthole being right on the curve and the mylar ‘window’ behind it.
The side decking is only trial fitted for the same reasons described earlier.
On the whole really liking how its shaping up.
Cheers
Slog
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zoly99sask reacted to Captain Slog in Borodino by Captain Slog - Dom Bumagi - 1:200 - CARD
Hi, thanks for to all the likes.
Continuing on, I have fitted the port bow and a side skin. Progress shot of where it is at right now.
The side skin; which during the fitting dry run was a perfect fit but of course once glue is involved it was slightly off but nothing some judicious trimming and colouring with watercolours couldn't fix and I am happy with the way it is shaping up.
With both bow skins fitted, which was actually worse than the starboard side and again hoping the lower belt hides most of the issues, the front is closed off and both anchor shelves completed which turned out not to bad. The centre join looks okay with the naked eye and the photo-etch eagle crest and the lower belts with a torpedo hatch should cover up most of the rest of the join.
That's enough skinning for this swing. I find doing hull skins laborious and feels like I push my luck if try to do to much in one sitting.
Cheers
Slog
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zoly99sask reacted to Captain Slog in Borodino by Captain Slog - Dom Bumagi - 1:200 - CARD
Hi all,
Well I've gone and done it now; first upper hull skin is on.
A bit of starved cow effect going on but happy enough.
Not to worried about the lower edge or the vertical cuts as a lower belt covers most of this.
Cheers
Slog
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zoly99sask reacted to Captain Slog in Borodino by Captain Slog - Dom Bumagi - 1:200 - CARD
Hi Craig, thanks for the nice comment and to everyone for the likes.
In all honesty though I still have a long way to go in modelling in general and card modelling in particular; probably everything I have done to date I have thought it could have been better. Constantly telling myself to remember and do this or don’t do that for the next time LOL.
A bit more progress, I had hoped to have done a lot more before making a progress report but unfortunately I can’t get in to the groove plus I wanted to try posting in the new site!
Okay parts 23, 24 & 25 are sections of the lower mast and what I can only guess are services trunking/ducts. Surprisingly, particularly for the mast section, these are made separately for each level of deck rather than continuous full length pieces fed down through holes in the decks. I guess both methods of assembly have their pro’s and con’s.
The parts are fairly simple requiring rolling for the mast and scoring and bending for the trunking. Unfortunately the trunks didn’t turn out exactly square despite being cut out accurately; I think maybe the bends might have been slightly off giving one side a slightly longer or shorter side throwing the squareness out. I am not too bothered as they are virtually hidden under and behind other structures but more care will be needed for the upper sections.
The mast section also had something funny about it in that I cut out, rolled and edge glued the join as shown but the diameter of the finished part is greater than the placement marker it gets fixed to so I will slice the join apart and re-glue with an overlap to match the deck placement circumference marked on the deck.
Hopefully I can sit down and get back into the swing of it and do some more before I fly out again.
Cheers
Slog
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zoly99sask reacted to Captain Slog in Borodino by Captain Slog - Dom Bumagi - 1:200 - CARD
Thanks for all the nice comments guys and everyone for the likes.
Grant I have thought about soldering but don’t have a soldering iron at the moment. I have had a play around previously with the soldering torch but remembering the wire is only 0.2mm in diameter it was difficult to heat it up without destroying it! Too gentle approach to save the wire affected the silver solder paste as it didn’t really get up to temperature.
There was a couple of times where it just flashed the wire enough not to destroy it but enough to get the silver solder paste to flow but the window of opportunity is very small. I also tried using rosin core solder but it didn’t like the torch at all. The plan is to get a soldering iron and some solid solder and a flux paste/fluid and play around again.
The problem comes down to holding the wire in place as it is so small just touch it wrong with the tweezers and it ejects itself across the room. For a different project making up a grill with 0.5mm wire which I can easily silver solder I tried taping down all the pieces but of course it burned off with the torch and I guess the fumes contaminated the joints as the silver solder failed to hold. I will certainly try playing around when I get a soldering iron.
Incidentally I could have done the handrails by bending the 2 outer supports from the handrail and would only need to worry about the centre stub which doesn’t need to be a strong joint as the handrail and 2 outer stubs would be one piece and self-supporting. Hindsight is a wonderful thing LOL
Okay next bit of progress is structure 16 and all the parts are shown below. I haven’t gone into much detail as the construction is essentially the same as the previous structure 15 posted earlier. It was a bit more complicated due to all the ins and outs and I am not as happy with how it turned out compared to assembly 15.
Several of the side skins were over length and needed to be trimmed considerably to fit; also I ended up cutting instead of folding some parts to make fitment easier.
Here is a photo of the completed structure; doors? check, portholes? check, windows? check. The only different items on this structure are the addition of some handles on the end. I did double check to make sure these are vertical and not the expected horizontal of step irons!
My first fabrication of step irons (or handles in this case). These are 0.2mm diameter wire which I annealed using the soldering torch as this brass just snaps if you try to do too tight of a bend otherwise. I checked the distance between the pin pricked holes with the digital callipers and then went around measuring everything I could think of to match the width. It turns out two 6” steel rules gripped together was perfect.
The rulers were pressed down on to the wire and the legs folded up and then given a squeeze with tweezers. The over long legs were trimmed back a bit with nail clippers. The legs were fed into the pin pricked holes and a 0.5mm drill bit was placed in the hoop and the step iron pressed home for a consistent distance.
Here is the cheapo water colours I used to paint the iron work. It goes on so much easier to the tiny wires than brush painting Tamiya paint and dries to a more complementary black also. You can also use this type of paints for edge colouring but at the moment the PITT pens are easier and more convenient for me.
Final shot of it in its spot. I have also temporally placed the 3rd of the 3 skylights, which were made previously.
I only have 3 more days before I fly out again so will continue working on the sub-assemblies.
Cheers
Slog
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zoly99sask reacted to Dan Vadas in HMVS Cerberus 1870 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - Paper Shipwright - 1:250 - CARD
All the Railings are now fitted. They were a quite enjoyable area of the build. I have a lot of touch-up to do, especially on the black printing. I'm not at all happy with the quality of the printing, I don't know if it was the wrong choice of paper, ink or Setup but it flakes off if you look at it sideways :
A bit of fun - the cranks for the forward Pump. I made this from a scrap of the PE used for the Railings - it was almost a perfect length fit between the sections :
Some more bits that I've fitted - the Cranes, side ladders, lifebelts and Navigation Lights :
An overall look at my progress :
Danny
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zoly99sask reacted to Tallshiptragic in USS Constitution by Michael G - Revell - Scale 1:96 - PLASTIC - Newbie Build!
Connie gun
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zoly99sask reacted to Alex1201 in USS Constitution by Alex1201 - Revell - Scale 1:96 - PLASTIC - Boston Strong!
Hi. This is my first build log. A brief introduction: It has been a long time since I did a model, and I jumped in feet first to this challenging one! I had done some model cars in grade school, and then did most of one sailing ship in college (abandoned half way through rigging after the cat chewed off the top of the mast for the second time!!) My crafting since then has varied from needle crafts, to home DIY/remodels, to painting Bob Ross style. All those experiences are going to be useful I think!
Well, this project came to me when we were living in the Boston area for a year. We learned to sail, and spent much time at the Harbor and soaking up all the living history there in the nucleus of our country. I’ve never been a history buff but being on location makes all the difference. After touring the Constitution, I was compelled to do this model. I picked up a 2004 vintage kit from a local hobby shop.
I got started but then had to move, and it has been boxed up for 4 years, halfway through step 1. (I have lost my pictures from that early stage.) I have gotten back to it finally! (this post is long catching up. I promise not to be so wordy in the future.)
Decisions, decisions!! I had found AndyMech’s log (it must have been right before the great data crash) and used his excellent stern painting as a guide. Starting again, I have read several other inspirational logs, and arguments about historically accurate details, and got pretty overwhelmed with all the choices to make! I find too many creative choices is causing me some stress and paralysis, but getting through it! Some ideas really appeal to me, such as furled fabric sails, lighting in the cabins, cannonballs, etc. Finally to get unstuck, I decided to complete it (mostly) with the supplied parts per the directions, including plastic sails, with minor upgrades/tweaks. If I do another one later I can get more creative and authentic.
Where am I now?
The hull is finally finished (I am sure there will be further touch up of the paint details, but I am calling it done.) I had to correct a mistake: I originally didn’t paint the black part of the hull, because it like the way the raw plastic looked with all the grain details. Gloss or flat didn’t seem right. … But as I got further I realized it needed to be painted and had to rewind. It wasn’t hard to paint the main hull sections. I couldn’t find satin paint (btw, I am using Testors enamel) so used flat. Didn’t like it so flat, so burnished it with super fine sandpaper and it’s ok.
Unfortunately, that meant I also had to paint the black background of the stern, and I was so satisfied with my original work. :-( Forgot to take a before picture this time before I messed it up. My touch up of the black made a mess of the details and then I had to touch them up, and it's not as good now. The one good thing is that I made the mermaid’s torso’s skin tone instead of green. Saw that on one log (sorry can’t remember who to credit!) Overall, I’m not thrilled with the final outcome, but it is ok. I’m sure there will be further touch up.
On one log I learned that there are hollows in the keel for nuts to attach mounting supports from below!! Why is this not in any instructions!?! (I have to find this again and credit source.) This would have been GREAT information to have before gluing the hull together. I had been very frustrated about how to mount the model, not liking the dinky kit supports. So I got busy with the Dremel and opened up the spot for the nut, and cleared the hole in the bottom of the keel for the bolt. This leaves a very thin wall, but it seems solid. I put some epoxy putty (from fish tank coral fragging supplies) on top of the nut to hold it in. It’s not pretty, but it will hold, and it is ready for a longer bolt. Still trying to find the right supports. None of the ones I see for sale have the right slot width. I measure 7/32” ? If it is bigger, it won’t provide support. Most are too small, and there isn’t enough material left to shave the keel without exposing the bolt. I guess that is not the end of the world if it will be hidden. But still. What does everyone else do? I haven’t seen this particular issue discussed.
I had to repaint the copper plating. With all the handling, it didn’t hold up well. I need to coat it with something. Someone suggested floor polish. Gloss, satin, …?
The things I have changed so far: (yeah, stick to the kit. I know…)
Of course, had to paint green on the bulwarks instead of white. I mixed green, blue, white and black (=gray) to get a softer green that I think is close to the real thing. Also painted the bottom of the port boat this color. The pot of it I saved is dried up after 4 years, so I hope I don’t need more. You can see the green peeking through here...
The iron straps of the rudder hinges I wanted to paint black. So I mixed an off black for the cannons and those straps. I really like the effect of the glossy straps on the flat black wood of the rudder. Speaking of the rudder, the little eye bolt perplexed me. Had not seen mention of it in logs or instructions. But clearly it has a purpose. It appears to want a chain. A rudder is not something you want to lose at sea! Research confirmed it is for rudder preventer chains, dual purpose for retention and for steering if the tiller is broken. We can see them on the real ship, the Hull model, and many of the wooden models. I am going to try to add this. Have to find scale black chain.
I left out the window “glass.” After a fail of white glue to install the plastic, I took my husband’s suggestion and am not putting it in. Hopefully this will allow more visibility into the cabins, which are too nice to hide.
Other things I plan to change:
Correct the gaps in the spar deck.
Gunport lids – after much deliberation, I decided to put them all on, and leave the front ones closed.
Rigging – need better thread and more variety of sizes than the kit supplies. I have some smaller and larger sewing thread and I may get a size or two from Syren.
Add a bell.
So, the next step is getting the gun deck painted. I am going to try AndyMech’s technique with scoring and painting the boards separately different colors. I am so impressed with the molded details in this kit. Plank ends lining up where beams would be, tiny nail heads! If it weren’t for the dang gaps between the sections! I did a dry fit and the middle section sags. Some reinforcement is in order.
I have painted a thin coat of black, sanded lightly, and have scored the planks. Now on to the painting… yikes.
[Edited. I learned how to insert the photos properly.]
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zoly99sask reacted to popeye the sailor in The Jolly Roger by popeye the sailor - Lindberg - 1:130 - PLASTIC
this should catch the build up to the present. the transom was my second folly, but not as serious as the bow. I had cemented the rudder in place before I painted the flat black wash. now to swing the transom in place was very tight. adding cement to the mix, it was wrestled into place. all is good.
a fife rail and posts were added to the bow deck.
the transom was washed with the flat black.
more parts added to the stern of the ship........lockers of sorts.
and more parts were added to the bow end.....cleats and the capstan.
this is it............today came and the day was spent setting up computers. errand day tomorrow......but I'll try to get a little more done.
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zoly99sask reacted to popeye the sailor in The Jolly Roger by popeye the sailor - Lindberg - 1:130 - PLASTIC
the upper deck is cemented in place........had to fudge how it lined up with the gun deck. this was to be my first folly with this model. before doing that, the ships wheel was cemented in place and white thread was wiped with olive drab paint and wound on the wheel's spool. it was fastened under neath the deck.
the hatch was added, later to be washed with the flat black. now came the folly........"OK.....smart guy........now, how do you suppose your going to install the bow deck?
it wasn't easy........and a little messy........I had to figure the height of the deck, so the bow bulkhead would line up. the painted deck helped a little, but I still had to clean up some excess glue.
after a little touch up, the bow bulkhead was cemented in place.
some trimming was needed to line up the bow spirit hole. this will now get the flat black treatment. another plus........the masts line up with the well holes!
the grates along the mid ship was painted wood brown.....and the aft hatch was washed in flat black.
it gave it a blackened quality. I gotta trim the galley badge windows a little more
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zoly99sask reacted to popeye the sailor in The Jolly Roger by popeye the sailor - Lindberg - 1:130 - PLASTIC
the channels had been added and painted.......some of the deck accents were painted with the wood brown at this time.
this was done on the 26th of May. you can see that the ill fated post is there to help support the mid ship. with a semi stiff diagonal brush, the entire outer hull was gone over.....even the wales. they will be the third color texture.......the brown of the plastic combined with the flat black.
well.......I just had a bit of confusion here. I had taken a few other pictures, in conjunction to something else I want to do with this model..and I couldn't find them. I was getting the pictures from my memory stick. when I took all the important stuff out of my old computer, they went along with it and ended up on this computer. I'll have to update the log files in the stick I was looking over the instructions...and what they supply for the rigging is really horrible......three different size rings.
I have some rigging blocks from past Revell 1:96 kits. the gray ones come from the C.S.S. Alabama........the brown ones either come from the first United States build, or one of the Cuttys {I built two of them}.
comparing them with the rings.....there really isn't much of a size difference. then again......2 or 3 mm wood blocks may be too large. the gray blocks are over twenty years old.....I built the Alabama around the mid 90's {that put me in my mid to late 30's}. I've had them that long!
I got some A blocks, some B blocks, C blocks, and D blocks.......for those who built a Revell kit, you probably remember how they list out. I'll see how they look
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zoly99sask reacted to popeye the sailor in The Jolly Roger by popeye the sailor - Lindberg - 1:130 - PLASTIC
one thing I hate is glue marks........'at's all I Kin stand... so I started to paint the hull......and I started to think about the bottle of diluted flat black I had kick'in 'round. hmmmmmmm...
I did a wood brown for the bottom........mask off the wales.........and do the upper part of the hull. then go over it with the diluted flat black. I'm a hack when it comes to weathering and such......I'll give it a try. this is the perfect practice.....victim! {Yea, I'll call'em the way I see'um}. top and bottom are done.........says nothing about painting below the waterline, so it saves me a step.
the decks are being painted a light deck tan, with accents of the wood brown and the flat black treatment.
the masts, the rudder, and the transom was painted in wood brown. let dry completely.
the stand was painted a darker brown......the only gloss that will be used.
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zoly99sask reacted to popeye the sailor in The Jolly Roger by popeye the sailor - Lindberg - 1:130 - PLASTIC
so to start things off, I thought to put together parts that are sub assemblies. I decided that I'd do a little painting on her, so the assemblies are narrowed down to what would be the same color, or as a unit. the anchors were assembled....and the rudder.
the masts were assembled up to a point. to assemble the cross trees, the shrouds need to be set in place, and it slips over them. I found that one of the cross trees was broken and badly deformed........NO! I didn't do it..I tell ya! so I had to fix it and set it aside.....it'll be alright >icky mae<
I also closed up the bridle ports....which gave me an idea. this kit is 1:130 scale........the Thermopylae is 1:124 scale. these two loose cannon could be important....and that's no laughing matter, those cannons. I was wanting to have cannons on the Thermopylae.......Cyril has them on his. I set the two aside...I'll size them up when I get back to her.
I also thought to change up how the deck process is done.....I though I could line up the cannon locator holes better. that was a fool's errand. it can be seen well in this picture.
here a few parts are added.......notice the posts?!?! there's one missing. the part number is #10......and there should be.......and for all intent of purpose, ten of them. there are ten of them......except they are two different numbers, and a locator hole is missing. marking where it should be, I added the missing one. for the cannons.....guess I'll be cutting off the locator pins.
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zoly99sask reacted to popeye the sailor in The Jolly Roger by popeye the sailor - Lindberg - 1:130 - PLASTIC
last Tuesday.......I was suffering from work lag. it was a nasty week.....way too many trailer brake jobs! I didn't have the urge to do anything with the wood projects. Wednesday came with not much change, and I knew I had to do something. ........something I could just throw together, without much fuss. since the Jolly rogers was a kit with many problems, I figured.....what the heck, if I have to hack it up, who cares not like I was going to do a log on it, or anything I would forego a lot of painting....no need to be fancy. a few folks here has built it and experienced problems.....from decks not fitting properly......to masts not lining up in the deck wells........poor fitting parts......just a beginning. I noticed that the cannons don't line up in the ports too good. I did this when one particular build was in progress.
there were no hawse holes for the anchors either. I had shown a gent where he could locate them, given how far into the build he was........I know that they should be under the trail boards, but I drilled mine out to show 'em. I'm going to go this route......at least they'll be close.
I had packed her up and put her away.......and now I bring her out again. we had gone to Hobby Lobby......and saw three different kits. the admiral was puzzled.......I was looking at a large scale B24 Libby, but she said no.........ha-rumph! so I picked up some black beading thread, a roll of small chain, and I hope some stuff to do the bow and stern decorations on the Thermopylae. after we left, I remembered that I needed thinner to paint the boats {next week......I got Monday off}. so here's my try with the Jolly Rogers
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zoly99sask reacted to marsalv in Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
Thank you Greg.
Although it is not historically accurate, I decided to leave the hull without copper plating. On the other hand, the whole hull will be with treenails. So I started the "mass" production of the pins (about 8,000 pieces).
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zoly99sask reacted to marsalv in Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
Thanks to all for nice comments.
I slowly continue with planking, about one half is done.
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zoly99sask reacted to marsalv in Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
Thanks to all .
To amateur: I wanted to build a model in scale 1:48. But due to space limitation I chose a compromise scale 1:52.
Now is the time to show the figurehead which made for me Doris (for those who do not know her work http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/854-royal-caroline-by-doris-card-1749-140/?hl=doris).I appreciate very much this assistance because my attempt would probably ended very pathetic.
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zoly99sask reacted to marsalv in Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
Thank you very much guys.
Denis - the red frame in front of the stove is called riding bitts. Citation from the Peter Goodwin´s book The Construction and Fitting of English Man of War:
These large timbers acted as securing point for cables which held the ship while riding at anchor. And why is the stove so close to the riding bitts - I have no idea.
Some new parts - ladders.
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zoly99sask reacted to mrcc in Santa Maria by mrcc - FINISHED - Mamoli MV42 - 1:50
And here is my efforts on the second planking...
This being my second effort as I inherited a kit (Billings Boat - Bluenose) that had already been planked.
My first effort was a challenge to say the least on the Caldercarft - Bomb Vessel Granado.
On this kit I measured the port and starboard sides and divided the values at each bulkhead (below the wales) to the width of the plank and tapered the bow and stern planks accordingly. (Above the wales) the planks were all pretty much full width and the steam bending at the bow was quite easy... I was very happy with the quality of the walnut strips as in no splintering at all, in comparison to the supplied wood in the Caldercraft kit.
Sorry about the lighting on the first 2 images...
Just have to do a light sanding and good to go!