qwerty2008

The bulwarks are now fully planked, giving the shape of the completed hull.

 

 

 

 
The first 'mechanical' piece has also been added in the form of a brass tube to carry the tackle for the spanner boom. It exits through the taffrail and was shaped to fit around the chase ports and flow into the hull cavity.
It's not strictly accurate having the boom belayed to the centre of the taffrail but it's one less hole in the deck where water ingress is more likely and also avoids the potential of fouling the steering gear and lines once the tiller is on the rudder head.
Although it's sanded fairly smooth I'll plank the inside of the rear counter to avoid any texture issues.
 

I did the same with the port side. 
In order to hold the center part of each plank down while gluing, I use various clamps and dead weights (along with some shims).
I wonder how many of you recognize the two types of weights I show below. I did use the lead weights but never caught anything with the iron ball.
  

The first section of the inside planking is done. This is where the starboard side stops. In fact some of the planking (and frames) towards the middle part will be cut away to show the gun powder room (yet to be installed).
The plank just underneath the clamp had to be 'custom fitted', but it all came together alright. 

Tapering planks
After the keelson and the two 'clamps' were in place, I took two of the planks and beveled them so they would fit against the keelson at an angle. They were glued in place one on each side of the keelson. Marquardt refers to them as 'lose limber planks'; mine are not lose.
 
Now I was ready to measure the distance from the keelson to the clamp and see how many planks I needed. I am using some basswood that was ripped to about 0.131 inches. The sketch below shows that I needed 17 planks tapered from .127 inches down to 0.092 inches. I simply divided the measured distances by 17.
 
To taper the planks I used a small block plane mounted in a vise. The wooden block is to keep the plank from rotating. The dial caliper was used to measure both ends and some sandpaper helped to smooth the rough edges.
  
The third picture shows two planks before and after tapering.

The first thing I did is make the keelson. 
There was a lot of controversy about this earlier. I saw drawings with different shapes depending on the time frame. Several of you provided me help, but in the long run I decided to draw up my own plans on the basis of what I learned back then.
 
So, the keelson (not yet glued on) was notched for the small frames that support the copper bottom of the forward gun powder room. 
I hope there is enough clearance for the 'book shelf', but if not, I may have to cut the top part so it fits in the cramped space.
  
 
The next strep is to install the first set of 'clamps' for the orlop deck and then fill the inside of the hull with planking.
I already know that because of the hull shape, I have to taper some of these planks.

One of the last things to do before bottling the boat - the oars. Pretty self-explanatory :
 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks very much for the kind comments Mark, Per, Pat, David, Grant, Duff, Jan and John .
 
 
Wasn't that me Grant :D ?
 
I made the grapnel anchor from brass sheet which I filed into shape, silver soldered and blackened :
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

I think it is going to work!
All along I have been wondering if my approach of prefabbing the decks would come together.
Here is the orlop deck viewed from both ends.
  
I need to do a lot of additional work with the keelson, clamps (the beams that support the deck frames along the hull), the knees, etc. The inside of the port hull will be planked and then the deck will be fitted again.
Meanwhile I will be cutting and fitting the walls of the powder room and more details (including stepping the mast).
 

The frame works.
It has been a while since I worked on the main frame. It was simply a matter of procrastinating while the inevitable was waiting for me.
 
In the six inch long section there should be 31 frames, but I only will be showing (in part) only 16. Here they are attached to the keel with some of the 'in-between' frames partly shown. Towards the bottom there will be planking in and outside of the frames, nevertheless, there is a lot of filing and sanding to be done in order for this to look halfway decent.

When the inside is done to my liking I will start the supports for the four decks and see how things go from there on.
The outside of the frames comes later and I will not be concerned about that unless the frames get too thin as I am filing and sanding away  .
I also need to remember where the wires go for the various LEDs.
 
 

I would like to share my joy with you mates...
My model won the gold prize (1st place) in the 34th Greek Scale Modeling Exhibition of the I.P.M.S. gr, last Sunday.
Thx
 

Thanks Greg, Nick, George and Keith.
 
 
Gee, sorry George. Just a 4x magnifier .
 
 
Lots of practice???
 
Here's your pic Keith :
 

 
  Danny

Thanks Russell. Yep, this is a whole new ball game, and a load of fun .
 
Here's the final rigging. It'll tighten up better when it's all finished (I hope) :
 

 
My trick for doing the Forestay. The fishing line will be trimmed off after the forestay is glued to the mast :
 

 
The fishing line used to pull the jib halyard Traveller forward on the bowsprit :
 

 

 
The final try into the bottle before I actually insert the boat permanently. I'll only get one chance at it, as I doubt I'd get it back out again :
 

 

 
  Danny

Rigging the Shrouds and their lanyards :
 

 

 

 
I found I had a couple of problems when I tried to insert the boat into the bottle for another test fit. With the Deadeyes fitted it was a bit too wide to go through the neck of the bottle. I had to trim a bit off the edge of the cap rail to bring them in enough.
 
The shrouds also needed to be left loose at their tops to allow them to slide down the mast a few millimeters when lowering the mast. These can be lifted back into position when the mast is raised inside the bottle later on.
 
  Danny

Thank you Dan and Don.
 
I've done quite a lot on the boat lately, but haven't updated the Log so there will be a fair bit coming up .
 
I've painted the hull in similar fashion to Chuck's. The Friezes were hand-painted with a toothpick :
 

 

 

 
The Parrels were a bit of fun to thread onto the boom yoke :
 

 
Now came the time to fix the mast to the swivelling thwart and try it out to see if my plan was going to work - a close shave, but all was good :
 

 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

Well, as you can see in the picture below, I have made a start to modify the gunport lids on the starboard side.  Actually, all of them are now removed and the lids are already cleaned.  What bothers me is that the two-part epoxy cement does not hold worth a tinkers #&%^ !  As mentioned a few posts ago even CA doesn't hold worth a tinkers #&%^.  I wish I have some of Boeing's or Douglas' structural adhesive.  With that stuff you can actually glue an airplane together without rivets.
 
But, beggars can't be choosers and I'll have use the two-part epoxy stuff.  I woder how "liquid nails" would work.  You know the stuff home builders use?  Hmmmmmm - - - testing time, provided te tube I have is still workable.
 
Okay, tomorrow I'll start making the parts for the gudgeons and pintles.   I'm still asking myself why I'm doing this - - - making the lids movable but the cannons are secured to the deck and can't even close the ports.  
 
Will let yuns know how things are working out.
 

 
Cheers, 

The good thing about all the sanding was it showed the places I had water ingress, you can see the gaps and cracks that were not really visible to my eyes. I will have some small areas that will need attention so that will be next, after that the rudder mechanics go in. Funny thing is with all my other boats I was always in a hurry to get to my next build but not this, I haven't got bored of it even after over a year. 

The items that will make up the rudder system, golden rod, servo, rudders, bearing blocks and two sheets of plywood glued together for me to make linkage arms from.

The arms that I will attach to the rudder shafts for linkage the servo will move to steer both rudders.

More....




 
Thanks
 

Painting phase...Long and time consuming...
Even a Gr boat, I wanted to give her also an oriental character, since the interaction between the two Nations was continuous.
After many combinations I came up to this...




 

So, placing all  fittings on the model I had a first impression on how it was going to be…
 



 
And a closer look on some details.
Windlass

Decoration board

Bridge- "Katsoulas"- tiller- rudder

 
I have forgotten to mention that the scale it’s 1:24
 

 
Thanks

Hello,
 
the captain proudly presents: the brand new wheels
 

 

 

 
Here an impression from turning the spokes. This time all went well, no trash. 
But this day was't my day. I had more repairs than things I actually build new. 

 
Regards,
Siggi

Hello,
 
yesterday I worked hard to finish the first 10 spokes. (Not mentioned those who did't make it) But the result is I think good. I'm not satisfied with all spokes, but it is the best result I could archive. Tomorrow I will see to finish the rest.
 

 

 

 
Regards,
Siggi

Thanks Dan and Igor.
 
The blocks are the smallest I've made to date - only 1.4mm long. Here they are with one of Chuck's 1/8" blocks for comparison :
 

 
I needed one double block for the forestay. It's slighlty wider than the singles, but of course has four holes instead of two :
 

 
Some more Ironwork - the mast band for the Boom, the bands for the Bowsprit and the two tiny Backstay Chains :
 

 

 
The construction of the Boom Yoke. The pics should be self-explanatory :
 

 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

Just a minor update.  I finally got the last troublesome gunport lid installed and working.  it took three tries and also had to repair some collateral damage but it's looking okay for me.  
Recently I read a something about all gunport lids should be shown open and all at the same angle.  Reason being esthetics and when the ship comes into the harbor it is made "ship-shape."  This may be true for navy ships that come into harbor but my model is an armed merchant ship at sea.  This model will have a series of sails set as if at sea thus my lids will be set at random angels.  It would defeat the purpose of making the lids workable in the first palace.  
 
I have also continued my work on making the pulley blocks.  I have now about 40 single sheaf blocks and 32 double sheaf blocks.  I need 32 of each and theoretically I could commence mounting and rigging the canons.  However, I looked at eight of the double sheaf blocks and found them too large.  I'll he to remake them to suit my likes.  There may also be a few of the single sheaf blocks to be remade.  
 
I am now ready to turn the ship around so I can work on the starboard side reworking the gunport lid hinges and replace them with the 0.5 mm ones.  When looking at Chris Linden's Vriesland model the hinges on that model are also quite hefty and match the ones I originally made for the Surabaya.  Am I tempted to leave well enough alone?  Yup - - - I'm just a stubborn old Dutchman and now I must the starboard side the same, for esthetic purposes.  Glutton for punishment   Oh well, it's only time of which I have plenty off.
 
Cheers,