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Timmo

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About Timmo

  • Birthday 05/29/1976

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    Hamilton, New Zealand

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  1. Thanks Jerry. That's really helpful. I'm not the first to want to make an Enterprize go then! Ah well. That's a really nice rendition he's got there and very stable in the water. My Harrier still bobs and heels a lot more than I'd like but I can't really ballast her any further as she's a little lower in the water than accurate. By my maths on his comments about frame width his Enterprize might be close in size to mine. Interesting he seems to do well with what appears to be all masts rotating together rather than an independant foremast. He gets some massive rotation angle so tha
  2. At the risk of looking like I’m easily distracted, Enterprise has been laid up on the stocks while I devote my time to a new project that’s been on the Wishlist for years. it’ll be a 14.5 ft ply sailing dinghy - an Ilur from French designer François Vivier. Hopefully it’ll look something like this: (pic: c Harlan) my build will be here if anyone’s interested. http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?267473-An-Ilur-in-NZ I’m looking forward to returning to Enterprise down the track and have picked up some kauri timber for the Ilur that I’ve thought about may
  3. Work has moved to the hull. The frames have been drawn up and cut out. These are still solid at present but will have the middle cut out to leave a hollow frame. This will contain the cambered gun deck line. On Harrier I did the same but ended up replacing them with stronger timber deck beams, especially around the hatches. I might do the same here but having the floor leave on ply is helpful for showing the level. the deck is shown marked in red above. It’s about 5mm below the actual level to account for the 3mm false deck and then planking on top of that. H
  4. go on then, another one... The ominous torpedo ballast keel is visible when in the pool, unlike local lakes etc. I'm interested to see whether Enterprise's greater hull capacity and bouyancy will allow a bit more internal ballast and something that will be less yacht-like underneath her.
  5. With not much else to do outside working from home hours, and even during a few of those hours in quiet times.... lots of sticks have been made. The mainyard at bottom is 630mm long and 13.5mm wide. It was getting a little tricky eaking out the limited floorboard timber stocks on somthing this size without nail holes and knots. On Harrier I used fibreglass rod for the t'gallant yards for durability but they don't seem to have needed it so these are all timber. Some of the smaller ones have been left slightly overscale, more for the fact that they'll need to take a brass pin throug
  6. I also did a canoe with it and endorse the above. I couldn’t see it working much for anything model size. I love it’s grain, smell and texture and the great result on the canoe but it doesn’t love me. A lingering skin irritation resparked by other wood dust is an unpleasant legacy.
  7. My two cents: I prefer muted natural colours or only a small amount of colour. I know many were likely painted with quite bold colours but it’s like Greek sculptures- even though they were originally quite colourful a modern audience expects them to be plain white marble because that the aesthetic we expect after seeing them only like that in museums. I like the plain lion with maybe some subtle shading to deepen tones. But remember it’s your ship!
  8. Nice fish! At the risk of getting off topic... Here's a voyage of mine with a tiny trout (thrown back) on one of the hydro lakes north of Taupo.
  9. Just found your build nzreg and pleased to see a Winchelsea in 'un zed'. It's coming along really nicely and that planking looks great. I've been very tempted to start one myself, especially since Chuck changed tack and made it a group project. However, I'd better make use of the plans I've already got and finish what I've started... Good luck with the build.
  10. With the country now in lockdown due to coronavirus I'm pretty limited on what materails I've got to hand. Given this project might be started and then put away for a bit if circumstances dictate, I started on the masts as they they are easy to store and are little projects in their own right. Square battens for the masts were cut to size from floorboard stock, ranging from about 15mm for the lower main to 9-10mm for the mizzen and smaller again for the topmast sections. This might sound small for a model facing the stresses of actually sailing but, like the original ships, t
  11. Like Harrier, Enterprise will be built on the cheap to a certain degree, using largely the same materials. Most timber, and certainly the visible bits will be matai. This is a moderately hard new Zealand native that was once abundant and used for everything from framing to floorboards up until the about the 70s. With most stands of native trees now protected this isn't milled on any commercial scale that I'm aware of but there's plenty of it available as old floorboards at the demo yarn. Some of it is even already dressed, which will be good for planking but for the larg
  12. I finished my first RC scratch built square rigger HMS Harrier a couple of years back and although I'm very happy with the result always considered her something of a practice run for the command that everyone wants - a frigate. Check out Harrier in action on video. With the current pandemic making the full sized sailing dinghy I was hoping to start this year look just that - hopeful - there's no time like the present to start the frigate. She's relatively cheap, being cobbled up from old floor boards and ply with the only realtively expensive bits being servos. She'
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