qwerty2008

complete coating of the body
coating material :the linden
We will proceed to sanding

I wasn't quite happy with the shape of the barrel so I put it back on the drillpress and turned it again but forgot to seal it with wax before I started painting it and ended up getting an interesting Damascus steel look that I hated to get rid of but had to . I also made the sides of the carriage, I cut the profile into a 3/4 inch thick piece of cherry then sliced it lengthwise into 1/4 inch thick pieces which was a hard task because the band saw is out of commission .


 
Lextin.

That one in the top would have been perfect as far as I am concerned.
David B

I wasn't quite happy with the shape of the barrel so I put it back on the drillpress and turned it again but forgot to seal it with wax before I started painting it and ended up getting an interesting Damascus steel look that I hated to get rid of but had to . I also made the sides of the carriage, I cut the profile into a 3/4 inch thick piece of cherry then sliced it lengthwise into 1/4 inch thick pieces which was a hard task because the band saw is out of commission .


 
Lextin.

Piet my friend, I thought you might enjoy this photo I took this weekend while attending Wilmington's Annual North/South Carolina Submarine Races.
This action shot was taken from the deck of the battleship USS North Carolina as they crossed the finish line.
Very intense huh?

 
I can get you and all of our friends tickets to next year's event.

Hello all, again, and thanks to those who dropped in and clicked like.
 
I redid the main midship stanchion because it was not quite right and set all of them on the port side to 25 mm above deck.  Most are pretty close to 90 degrees to the deck but the final adjustments will be made after they are all cemented in with two part epoxy.
 
After I mowed that backyard and lunch I proceeded to cement them all in place and while I waited for the cement to cure I made the railing cable. Instead of a solid rod or wire for the railing handhold I tried something else.  I would think that they had used a twisted steel cable so I wanted to simulate that.  I took two lengths 0.2 mm brass wire, the total length of the railing plus some extra and twisted them together. I used my aircraft safety-wire twisting tool and it was done in no time flat.  Then also pulled the twisted wire to stretch it and harden it some.  That way it's nice and stiff.  
 
Now it looks more like 7 X 7 steel cable.  It passed through the stanchion tops real fine, without a hitch.  I also put a few small pieced of tubing on the cable where the tension turnbuckles would be.  These may not show up on the photos but they are there. 
 
This finishes the port side railing.  I still need to make the boarding ladder but that one can go either side, it's removable and most likely stowed in the lower part of the con or below deck.
 
Well, now on the starboard side. I have already rotated the build board but first I need to solder all the small top tube pieces to the stanchion posts.  Tomorrow, I hope.
 
Okay, here are a few pics from my archive.  I think they are self explanatory.
 

 

I removed the deck gun, it was in the way and I see one stanchion popped up a little.  Hmmm, now is the question 'how to fix it without doing any damage.
 

 

 

 

 

Here you can see the two small pieces of brass tube to simulate the turnbuckles.  There is one at the most forward and most aft stanchion s well.
 

 

 
Cheers,

Piet,
 
Your comment on the photos "I think they are self explanatory" is absolutely right. The quality of workmanship speaks volumes for itself.
 
I was looking at the photos of your model alongside those of the original. I couldn't resist the urge to take one of your colour photos and convert it to sepia. It produced a really moody result. With a little darkening of the image and the replacement of the workshop items with something more suitable you are getting very close to the image of the original. (Hope you don't mind my doing this. ) 
 

Lextin,
 
The proportions look right but they are big cannon.  Maybe not a big as some of the stuff in mid-1800's, but they were monsters.   I'd say the carronade would work better if you want to leave more deck space.

I decided that my original rudder was kinda ugly so I made a new one and this time out of wood. The rudder will have a clear plastic insert to make it larger but I still need to cut the groove that it will fit into. I was halfway though cutting the rudder when my bandsaw started making a ting.... ting.... ting.... ting sound so I stopped cutting and was trying to locate the problem when I heard a snap and felt something hit my shoulder, I instantly knew that I was in for a long session of hand sawing but I did get the rudder finished. Now the bandsaw is temporarily out of commission until I get a new blade.





 
Lextin.

I decided that my original rudder was kinda ugly so I made a new one and this time out of wood. The rudder will have a clear plastic insert to make it larger but I still need to cut the groove that it will fit into. I was halfway though cutting the rudder when my bandsaw started making a ting.... ting.... ting.... ting sound so I stopped cutting and was trying to locate the problem when I heard a snap and felt something hit my shoulder, I instantly knew that I was in for a long session of hand sawing but I did get the rudder finished. Now the bandsaw is temporarily out of commission until I get a new blade.





 
Lextin.

I have mounted the rudder servo and the foresail servo.

I will rewrought the main sail line (blue) trough some eyebolts (red) to keep it from interfering with the rudder servo.

 
 
Lextin.

I decided that my original rudder was kinda ugly so I made a new one and this time out of wood. The rudder will have a clear plastic insert to make it larger but I still need to cut the groove that it will fit into. I was halfway though cutting the rudder when my bandsaw started making a ting.... ting.... ting.... ting sound so I stopped cutting and was trying to locate the problem when I heard a snap and felt something hit my shoulder, I instantly knew that I was in for a long session of hand sawing but I did get the rudder finished. Now the bandsaw is temporarily out of commission until I get a new blade.





 
Lextin.

I decided that my original rudder was kinda ugly so I made a new one and this time out of wood. The rudder will have a clear plastic insert to make it larger but I still need to cut the groove that it will fit into. I was halfway though cutting the rudder when my bandsaw started making a ting.... ting.... ting.... ting sound so I stopped cutting and was trying to locate the problem when I heard a snap and felt something hit my shoulder, I instantly knew that I was in for a long session of hand sawing but I did get the rudder finished. Now the bandsaw is temporarily out of commission until I get a new blade.





 
Lextin.

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I have mounted the rudder servo and the foresail servo.

I will rewrought the main sail line (blue) trough some eyebolts (red) to keep it from interfering with the rudder servo.

 
 
Lextin.

I have mounted the rudder servo and the foresail servo.

I will rewrought the main sail line (blue) trough some eyebolts (red) to keep it from interfering with the rudder servo.

 
 
Lextin.

I have mounted the rudder servo and the foresail servo.

I will rewrought the main sail line (blue) trough some eyebolts (red) to keep it from interfering with the rudder servo.

 
 
Lextin.

That's an impressive amount of research and engineering going on.   I like it!!!!

Since my last post I have epoxied the square fairleads in place and made the mount for the rudder servo, there is only one more servo to install and its the most complex one.
I was playing around with my radio and found out that the side to side sticks allow for more travel on the servos then the up and down sticks so I was able to coax another revolution out of my mainsail winch by linking it to the left side to side stick and no longer need the pulley that doubles the pull. Here is my new stick layout which makes best use of this quirk.

 
Lextin.

I have made the fairleads for the squares and currently have the dry fitted so that I could test the sail rotation. I made two fairleads instead of the before mentioned four to prevent a possible problem below deck, the braces will now split above deck with the split disguised as a block.




 
 
 
Lextin.

Since my last post I have epoxied the square fairleads in place and made the mount for the rudder servo, there is only one more servo to install and its the most complex one.
I was playing around with my radio and found out that the side to side sticks allow for more travel on the servos then the up and down sticks so I was able to coax another revolution out of my mainsail winch by linking it to the left side to side stick and no longer need the pulley that doubles the pull. Here is my new stick layout which makes best use of this quirk.

 
Lextin.

I have made the fairleads for the squares and currently have the dry fitted so that I could test the sail rotation. I made two fairleads instead of the before mentioned four to prevent a possible problem below deck, the braces will now split above deck with the split disguised as a block.




 
 
 
Lextin.

I have mounted the square servo to the tray and figured out where to run the four trough deck fairleads for the square sails. I also made the arm for the rudder servo.



 
 
 
Lextin.

I took some pictures of the keel and boat. Note: the modifications to the plug to prevent oilcanning are only halfway complete in the picture, I have since finished the modifications.




 
 
 
Lextin.