Bill Morrison

The first sheathing boards.

A method for future mounting of gun barrels. I trust that the installation locations and heights of these strips are at the appropriate heights.
(Google translation)

Can you please post this in the MSW designated language, English?   MANY THANKS
Allan

The two lower decks fit well to the model's frame. In principle, they can be mounted on frames without any problems. Deck joints only require light laser sanding of the coating.
(Google Translation)
 

Shipyard and frame structure elements.
(Google Translation)

The SAN FELIPE - Mantua set in 1:75 scale will be a huge challenge. Photo instructions and drawing plans are not compatible in many places. They often lack logical consistency in terms of the sequence of construction stages. The frame structure elements differ from the deck dimensions by as much as 5 mm (!). This cursory look at the kit gives a foretaste of the difficulties I will encounter while working on the model.
(Google Translation)

Work continues on the Qtr decks, the upper Qtr deck bulkhead is slowly taking shape along with the hatches with much fine tuning left to do but I'm liking the results thus far.
 
Michael D.
 

That bulkhead looks sharp, Michael!

Looks great Michael!  Following your build, I find ideas popping into my head for 3D printing; that bulkhead for instance, complete with decorations.
 
I'm looking forward to seeing how you handle the deadeyes and chains. I remember looking at my kit and pondering how to use those tiny parts with actual thread shrouds.
 
Best Regards,
Ian

I'm calling this bulkhead complete, while one cannot achieve the same level of crisp detail as that of a larger scale model, I think it looks fine without being too gawdy. As always thanks for taking the time to stop by and take a peek. 
 
Michael D.

Nice well researched updates.
Re: Doris her SotS is, in my opinion,  by far the most beautiful example. AND she hand made all of the hundreds of gold decorative bits as well.
 
I think that she has a log here at MSW??
 
 

More things:
 
I found some interesting reading and evidence of a ship rebuild in 1660 from square to round (Niklas Eriksson), and that the Prince was rebuild this way just before SotS was created. It is interesting with all these variants:
 
 
 
Round stern like Naseby
 
half circular Square stern dutch type (like Wasa)
 
McKay arrow like stern (as Royal Louis 1668)
 
Some have this almost elliptical stern or square with rounded edges
 
and Sergals oval tube shaped stern with different versions of the lower part
 
... and this also influence on the lower gun ports and that they sometimes is way below the gun deck
 

 
 
 
 

One step forward and two steps back. Now I have read the Septhon book and I must say it is stuck with information but as a builder I am still confused but on a higher level. I have come to the conclusion that the Sergel kit is not that bad after all - things considered. And I admire and thank McKay for all the illustrations - you can say that Septhon had very few of that kind - though nice photos and collections of drawings. Sometimes a picture says more than words. And searching internet I normally end up here on this forum - (the forum in some slavic language have lots of information but beyond my skills).
 

 
I am working with altering the stern from extreme frame and aft. I try to use the Fincham drawings to re-shape the kit to a round-tuck one. I have even tried to use mashed potatoes to shape the stern but .. well I had to try. I did not work - surprise - so I now use plates of plastic foam and metal wires.
 

 
Things I wondering about:
 
The decks - why this steps in McKay? The deck lines were made flatter somewhere down the line (maybe 1660). But many models have this step in gun deck aft as the Prince in some picture. The Wasa had guns below gun deck aft and I have decided to skip this lower part i.e. guns with Square formed ports. I will try to have old-fashion curved decks - flush decks. The Sergal kit has only these lowest four and not the round shaped above - compare with all three deck ports in Culvers model.
 

Added a picture of trying compass wood for stem. I used damp bending instead:

Picture of Einarssons "Regalskeppet Kronan" book and a first frame part:
 

I have bought two new books:
I have an idea of - in contrast to md1400cs - maybe build two boats from one kit. The idea is to build some sort of scratch build using the kit-frames to bend planks (SotS) and modify the kit discs to build the Swedish Kronan. I have seen many amazing version of SotS, and shipwright (Bill Short) carvings - wow!
 
Doris: https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=43575&hilit=1637&sid=2d00756880ad630cc97c5745201fb29f&start=930
Wolfgang Rotter: https://schifferlbauer.com/seite40.html
 
.

Thanks for comments, pep-talk and pieces of advice. I liked and much appreciate the McKay book, I like that is it "technical" though not "maybe 100% correct" - some books I read about Wasa was 2% ship tech and 98% about was how the timber was imported and what kind of silverware was used etc. I guess the Sots also could have ended as Wasa as she was built as a show-off piece.
 
They have found/investigated the Wasa sister ship "Äpplet 1629" this autumn. Read that Pett associate Francis Sheldon was ordered to Sweden to build "Kronan" - a ship a lot like the Sots. Sheldon aslo built the Äpplet 1663. Read that there was 8 ships called Vasa. 9 ships called Royal Sovereign. But only one Sovereign of the sea, and still... 

I have had this kit for two years - time to start. Got the John McKay book from UK this week. To bad - the casting quality... Reading the log from Michael

Ian and Henry.. thank you for the comments! I was making my own eyes and eye bolts from 26 gauge copper wire, as the local crafts store did not have 28 gauge copper wire! If I can find 28 gauge copper wire, I would make my own as I sort of enjoy the process. However, I will look at the links you sent Ian as if they can make my life easier.. thanks!
 
Henry, I went back and forth between the number of  gun port lid lift ropes.. one or two? I have seen models and pictures of ships using either one or two ropes (including the Soleil Royal and other ships, including Britsh, etc). I ended up deciding to go with ONE rope as that is what was on the cover art of the Heller Soleil Royal that I bought in 1977. I know that in real life, my 32# gun port lids would weight close to 300#, but then I have seen pictures that show an internal pulley system in use that would cut the required effort to lift the lids to 1/3... still a lot of weight to pull. With some putty, I could feel the old holes and drill two holes for each gun port... just a question of time. But based on the picture/models that both one rope and two ropes in use... I still am not sure on which is the right system to use!

I agree with what Ian is saying here.  Generally, I find that it is better to go a little under scale than over scale - especially when it comes to hugely repetitive elements like the gunport lids and their hardware.  It is useful to consider, not just how one lid looks in isolation, but how an entire broadside will look.

Eric, IMHO those are too large.  I recommend Caldercraft #83505 brass etch eyes seen below. I used many on my 1/100 Victory; two on the outside and two on the inside of each gunport lid (and various other locations).
 
https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/caldercraft83505.html#SID=3190
 
While I'm on this topic, you can also replace the Heller plastic eyes with copper equivalents if you so choose. They give you confidence that no eye will break as you rig it.
 
https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/caldercraft83500.html
 
Here are the #83505 eyes on the lids.

 
 

Well, I did a test gun port lid for the lower gun deck. jut wanted to see the thickness of the lid and how the hardware looked. I decided that 24 gauge wire was too thick, so I tried 26 gauge wire. The hardware is not glued in, just fitted into the hole. I like the thickness of the gun port lid (which does fit neatly into a gun port in the hull) and I am glad I tried 26 gauge wire... I see no need to try 28 gauge wire, as I am satisfied with the scale of the hardware. I think that the single eye/eye  bolt combination on the outside could be moved a bit close to the edge of the gun port lid, but... I do like having a little plank line available on the lid as an aiming port for my drill... and in the raised position, the exact hardward placement will be invisible anyways.

Ian, this is great! I am going to look at this immediately