ioannis

Hi Dave.
Carry on your art ,marvelous work.

Hi Ioannis
 
Nice work! You're really pushing ahead quickly with your cutter. At the rate you're going, it won't be long before you'll be able to set sail on her maiden voyage.
 
The masts and sails look good, as is the Teflon ring to ensure the smooth travel of the boom from port to starboard. The plastic box to protect the receiver and batteries is also a great idea, I wish I had thought of that when I had my RC boats, but then again, it's all good in retrospect, isn't it.
 
Looking forward to the next update.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Because I liked the perfection that deal with content beyond many times working 24 hours in order to finish what is started.
The clock is ticking and i must continue to the next construction ,,,not only ships,,but varius other,,,,

D9 picture, details

A plastic
Box has exactly  inserted inside  and sealed with silicon
Battery and receiver will store inside
Green arrow
​ 
showing round waterway witch need to be replaced with a quadrangle type water way in future
Red arrow

 showing  one of the 2 drums covered with thin rope -looks like round bollards –a 6mm long machine  screw is fitted inside each drum
This drum will also use as fairlead connecting servo and main sail
Black   arrows
 shows a beam transversely installed on deck as a slide way and stopper for the removable deck
 blue arrow  rigging- binding
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Mast  details- D10 picture-
Mast and bowsprit  are made from iroko  timber I found long sized 1.5m [octagonal shape] pieces at carpenters shop they use these to join and glue  furniture Pieces like chairs..tables,,
With a drills help I made them circular
As seen picture below the  mast  drill the deck through a [snotter] taper and the mast step  sit  on a snotter right over keel

To add a slight contrast I used other wood mahogany type to construct pieces such as
Mast taper ,blocks, dead eyes ,mast snotter, channel…..
On driver boom jaws  I used  copper bands
Between main mast, boom and jaws Teflon grommet has fitted red arrow on D10  picture ,so Boom or gaff can rapidly change direction  according  the way wind is blowing 
 

on gaff jaws I used copper bands and a copper ring on main mast, D11 red arrows
  blue arrow shows point that  jaws  bended with rope
 
futtock stave is made from a wooden spar -blue arrow

well enough for this now ,I must test  the solar oven 

so see you>>>
 

the white powder on it  is wood dust

Hi Dave.
Carry on your art ,marvelous work.

Nice work igor

Hi Dave.
Carry on your art ,marvelous work.

D9 picture, details

A plastic
Box has exactly  inserted inside  and sealed with silicon
Battery and receiver will store inside
Green arrow
​ 
showing round waterway witch need to be replaced with a quadrangle type water way in future
Red arrow

 showing  one of the 2 drums covered with thin rope -looks like round bollards –a 6mm long machine  screw is fitted inside each drum
This drum will also use as fairlead connecting servo and main sail
Black   arrows
 shows a beam transversely installed on deck as a slide way and stopper for the removable deck
 blue arrow  rigging- binding
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Mast  details- D10 picture-
Mast and bowsprit  are made from iroko  timber I found long sized 1.5m [octagonal shape] pieces at carpenters shop they use these to join and glue  furniture Pieces like chairs..tables,,
With a drills help I made them circular
As seen picture below the  mast  drill the deck through a [snotter] taper and the mast step  sit  on a snotter right over keel

To add a slight contrast I used other wood mahogany type to construct pieces such as
Mast taper ,blocks, dead eyes ,mast snotter, channel…..
On driver boom jaws  I used  copper bands
Between main mast, boom and jaws Teflon grommet has fitted red arrow on D10  picture ,so Boom or gaff can rapidly change direction  according  the way wind is blowing 
 

on gaff jaws I used copper bands and a copper ring on main mast, D11 red arrows
  blue arrow shows point that  jaws  bended with rope
 
futtock stave is made from a wooden spar -blue arrow

well enough for this now ,I must test  the solar oven 

so see you>>>
 

the white powder on it  is wood dust

D9 picture, details

A plastic
Box has exactly  inserted inside  and sealed with silicon
Battery and receiver will store inside
Green arrow
​ 
showing round waterway witch need to be replaced with a quadrangle type water way in future
Red arrow

 showing  one of the 2 drums covered with thin rope -looks like round bollards –a 6mm long machine  screw is fitted inside each drum
This drum will also use as fairlead connecting servo and main sail
Black   arrows
 shows a beam transversely installed on deck as a slide way and stopper for the removable deck
 blue arrow  rigging- binding
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Mast  details- D10 picture-
Mast and bowsprit  are made from iroko  timber I found long sized 1.5m [octagonal shape] pieces at carpenters shop they use these to join and glue  furniture Pieces like chairs..tables,,
With a drills help I made them circular
As seen picture below the  mast  drill the deck through a [snotter] taper and the mast step  sit  on a snotter right over keel

To add a slight contrast I used other wood mahogany type to construct pieces such as
Mast taper ,blocks, dead eyes ,mast snotter, channel…..
On driver boom jaws  I used  copper bands
Between main mast, boom and jaws Teflon grommet has fitted red arrow on D10  picture ,so Boom or gaff can rapidly change direction  according  the way wind is blowing 
 

on gaff jaws I used copper bands and a copper ring on main mast, D11 red arrows
  blue arrow shows point that  jaws  bended with rope
 
futtock stave is made from a wooden spar -blue arrow

well enough for this now ,I must test  the solar oven 

so see you>>>
 

the white powder on it  is wood dust

Change of plans....
I decided to press on with completing the re-planking of the starboard side and be done with it.
 
Also decided to pass on this technique I'm using to cut the shape of the bow planks.
I found that the use of tracing paper to mark the shape proved to be very tricky because the paper tends to move around and doesn't like to lay flat for marking the edge.
 
This wide painters masking tape works great!

Note the markings on the hull indicating the measured width of the planks at several points along the strake.

Mid hull markings indicate the full width of each plank for the twenty strakes.
 
The marked masking tape is carefully trimmed along the traced line and then transferred to the paper planking material.

The marked planking strip is carefully trimmed along the traced edge (top)....
Then, after marking the exact width points, use a curve template to create the smooth contour of the outside edge (bottom).
Finally, cut the plank along the outside edge marking.

Perfect fit....

Finished re-planking port side hull below the main gun wale.
I used strips of 140 lb. water color paper.... Sprayed with gray primer and brushed three coats of white acrylic.... light sanding between each coat.

That's much more better....

Back home.... Pain free....Hope to do some updates on SOS pretty soon.
Considerable progress made over the last couple of weeks, just didn't feel up to the posting routine.
Thank you one and all for all the best wishes. This has been quite an ordeal.
BTW.... Here's the last thing I saw in the waiting room lobby.... Thought I should share it with my MSW friends.

Hi Nils
 
Thanks. Hopefully, you're right about giving the glue joints time to settle back. I have my finger's crossed for you and hope that you will not need to re-sand too much of the hull.
 
All the best!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

thanks Patrick,
 
the work now is quite a long haul job to get all the decks to fit.   I plank the decks before mounting them, so  they can be sanded smooth and sealed with a dull varnish. All walls, deck bulwarks and -housing go on top of the planked decks. When the decks are on for permanent, there will be several rails to the upper hull sides. The metal plating does not go over the rails but fits neatly in between these.
 
I had a upsetting experience last week, when I had tilted the window of my basement workroom to allow nitro fumes of the wood sealing primer and it`s nitro smell to escape over night  ......
In the meantime we had much rain and bad weather, so that the high ambient humidity fell through the tilted window into the basement room just looking to settle on and in my hull. Next morning some of the longitudinal white glue joints (planks glued together at the edges as well) suffered swelling from the moisture a bit, and the nice smooth hull felt as if it needed a sanding and fairing session again 
 
I decided to leave as is, watch it over the week, hoping the glue swell will go back by itself. and to use watertight white glue (propeller glue) next time. Its getting better now day by day
 
Cheers,
 
Nils

Build log part 15
 
Status update:
 
today I cut into the hull sides at the waist areas, the front area lowest point, right down to the deck and the aft Area, leaving an 8mm high bulwark standing. Next will be the deck-planking job in these waist areas. The raw decks  were dry-fitted and are ready for planking
 
Unfortunately I found no figurines in scale 1:144 in fashion of 1900 clothing, pleas, does anybody know where to find some ? 
The only ones I found are out of the airlines scale figurines, and I`m not so fond of military figurines, but I´m happy to have some at all for dimension checks
 
Nils
 
 

 
a Dremel grinder is good for this work
 
 

 
the second raw deck is laying on the second stringer from top, the upper stringer has been cut away, so the remaining bulwark is flush with the inside of the side planking
 
 

 
the port side will have to be brought to the same status
 
 

 
the 8mm raw-bulwark is in hight slightly above figurines waist hight, handrail still to be fitted
 
 

 
 

 
the forecastle deck is still a card template
 
 
 
 
 

Not a big update but at least it`s a start
Frame 2F (and 1F and M)
 

Hi Ioannis
 
Ahhh. Ok. Whichever way you made it, it looks great sitting on the deck.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

working hard the last days,  mostly thinking how would i connect this  ?? how shall i do with the gear.  ??...searched arround the forum from similar constuctions i got   some ideas   and answers.
well  i helped by George and even my wife,so   i saved time running to next levels
D7 Start placing electric equipment ,connections and steering
 

 
Orange arrows>Sponge type rubber self glue in all around under deck line. will make the void  space water tight
Black arrow>a small motor 6 v mounted on the white gear which gives a funny noise while rolling.
the white gear is connected with a shaft
Green arrow>>double arm steering bracket connect via tens ropes with the circular top  of servo
Yellow arrow>> servo top head
Blue arrow>>a stainless  steel dowel cross vertically the bracket connecting the rudder
Red arrow>>nut grommet with ball bearing and O-ring
Orange arrow 
 
REMOVABLE DECK
 
I made  the aft part of deck[2/3 of the total  deck length] removable  so I can watch servos rudder and motor
Yellow lines shows the part of deck that can easily  be placed or remove

 
4 red arrows shown you the point where 4 screw 6 mm push through the deck  and place nuts on end of the screws
[4 nuts –bolt are  correspondingly  placed vertically on top of 4 beams under the deck]
 

Tighten the screws but not too tight ,the rubber which is glued under deck seal firmly the deck roof
 

D8  picture above show
Removable deck capsized,
black color self glue  sponge rubber
 
Deck details and decoration
 
i have not
place a high priority on the accurate reproduction
I need time for smallest details

 
A miniature cannon added - sorry no records  to show you how its been made before ships construction-
As I have seen from historical pictures looks like a
French 18 pounder gun 1740 to 1830.
 
Picture showing changes I made
Yellow arrow- hatch cover cut is larger than original top can be removed so I can insert and connect battery and receiver
 
Time is out .  work now  
 
comments are free  
 
 

Dear forum and modelers
Scratch build ABYTHISTOS –French 1784- was really a dream for me.
The building Idea has come 3 years ago while me and my son were watching photos and video from R/c models, and old time ships.
Yea I used to have a 2 mast wooden ship but I was not the builder ,I knew how to sail her how paint her and repair any engine easy damage but build one? how do we start? …sure from keel but then?…
Thanks to all people on this forum that keep on writing giving ideas tips solutions, and answers
I have spend almost a month reading and watching your articles and tips before I decide to build my project
I have found scanned on the internet a collection of plans
Easy to imagine .Difficult to build ?
What wood or other material to use for a certain part on the ship on the other hand. from where do we start? A plan to begin and a thought how is going to be at the end?
manual skills required patents
and ingenuity but most of all, patience
A cutter, nice curves with single deck one mast and less construction details comparison with a warship


CUTTERS de 4 CARONADE de 12 [1784]

I have acquired a set of plans body, sheer ,half breadth to start plus a general plan for riggings I choose enlarge photo method you can alter plans to any size you desire, then copy to a memory stick and, you have as much copies as you need for photo copying
But important point ,the lines on the original drawing must be very fine



MODEL SPECIFICATIONS
NAME -ABYTHISTOS-
LOA:0.73 cm bowsprit included
LBP:0.44 cm
MAX,BREADTH :0.17,5cm
MAST HEIGHT measured from deck roof :0.65 cm
Bowsprit length:0.21 cm
DRAFT Keel to white waterline :0.15 cm ,
Water line to upper deck top rail :0.10cm
Watertight compartments 3
1 electric motor 6v , 1 gig LOA 0.10cm
4 Sails./ 2 anchors continental type18th century/
1 French gun x18pounder


First day I bought various strait pieces of wood and finally
After watching a lot of dif ships plans I decided the cutter
The build method I used I call it COPY-PASTE

Choosing the keel, a strait piece of wood [beam]0.80 mm thick

Lots of calculations with Microsoft world program till I reduce the plan dimensions from the original minimize to the desired plan and also couple of photocopies I will need them to cut and glue on wood pieces so I have exactly similarity according to original ships plans

More building details I took also from other similar cutter ships

KEEL assemblage


The backbone of the whole ship. It also includes the rudder post and the stem mounted together with glue and a dowel
Small angle pieces of wood vertical installed on keel as floor will secure in place the ribs-frames.


Keel assemblage procedure finished
next step I made an adjustable keel holder using a baseboard and 2 aluminum angle to snug the keel as picture below




Tips
I made my own carpenters wood saw machine simply and cheap way without limits
I used an electrical hand saw with RPM adjustment
And screw it at the 4 hole edges of its base as photo below

Mine has open holes at the metal basein case there are not in yours just remove the base [allen screw usually used]and make the necessary holes with your drill

Tightly fasten with screw or chuck the two ends of an angle iron or wood ,parallel to blade and set your cutting mm distance according to desired

There are 2 types of blade Choose long blades. And For hard wood try iron blade and not the blade type for wood REMEMBER start slowly with low RPM don’t rush and .in case of hard wood also lubricate the blade with oil drops.[i use a wet with transparent -no cooking- oil
piece of cloth] You may destroy the first wood piece till you find the better way but when you do you will be rewarded
…sand paper will do the rest
and don’t forget to remove wood dust close to blade after, use
I have not used plank from storehouse Timber balsa wood is soft and fragile for planking
unknown behavior to sea water
Seawater ?
Yes me and my son wanted to sail with
So I need harder and good quality wood
Dry furnished Pitch pine medium hard long fibred tough doesn’t break easily with the tip I mention before I manage to cut several 2mm thick planking

good white glue quality 2 types express and waterproof

FRAMES

Making frames copy paste method with cheap plywood…
A keyhole saw is good for accurate plywood cutting
A triangle piece of plywood has been removed from the interior of each frame so I can freely move my fingers between
George my son came forward as volunteer to help me cut out frames –piece of cake- he said.
Well he did well but I had to cut 4 pieces twice due to his badly cut

The above picture 7 shows how does the frame look like after I have cut them to right size
With some careful sanding the resulting pieces are nice and accurate
On the same picture 7 you can see the frame on top and middle of witch I drilled a hole [blue arrow]
CENTER LINE
I have discovered a new method to connect frame with keel
Picture below –a long machine screw will connect at middle all frames top

Assembling the stern with frames most difficult for me
Due to the curvature


stern has been cutted for propeller use

even my wife’s clothespin in use


Plank on frame
Plank bending has been made with the simply way of ,wetting them first
And place them later bowing and buckling on the wooden board with rustproof nails
Holding the plank in position on the model while the glue dries is a test for my nerve


by the way thats my roof garden next to my small workshop
Some who favored the old ships
Thats from today ,during my trip i met this yacht waiting outside Hydra island Greece
a little further away and meeting her you can see the sailors up in masts
well thats  enough for today i have lots of things to do more .I must work my  solar oven also.
 
Im back
uffff..... in every step i must think about leaving space for servos motor shaft how to set up steering.Never did it again.The whole building is in my mind ,but next steps have been made longer
 
After placing frames things are getting better with hull planking. When job finish plywood frames will be removed and replaced by real wood pieces

Planking, clean work pleasant time lots of pinball holes

 
A small sandpaper machine will give a fine surface
 
Looks a bit ugly but timber is 2 mm thick,this ship is going to meet poseidon at see water so must avoid any bending
 
 
Picture below showing
Extra strength
Small plywood supports have been set vertical between frames [as guides and stoppers] to avoid movements

Patience and ..planking finished
 Before I remove plywood frames I replaced them with new 2mm thick ribs made of curved solid wood [blue arrows picture above]
I did glue them tight to inner hull planking

Hull has completely covered by planking
I m starting to remove Plywood frames.Τhe inner part must be clear.
Now I have free space enough for motor shaft servos steering

I have painted  the internal with first a coat of white waterproof  glue and the next day a second coat of fat oil primer Before the  electric equipment  installation
 
The interior has been sealed’ I could also use polyester. 

Gives you hardness but also weight. 
Once I  made a small boat i used liquid polyester  it smells awful and also its hazardous
 
Patience
Now sitting on a chair I’m holding the ship on one hand
On the other hand a special bosh  electric tool  a handy multi sander
and rolling it slowly with low rpm in all around the sides
don’t forget wood planking is tough for this timber
last sanding and my hands replaced the tool by a very thin sand paper 180 grit so at the end of the day I had the desired smooth shape
Now I have got strength to continue
I will need to putty the body but that’s not urgent
I kept some wood dust I will need it later. to make my own colored putty
Hmm ,,midnight again and everybody on this house went to sleep  all ? no ..except..my partnerships  2westy dogs  watch carefully every step i do  Quiet.. time… to consider my next steps…
 
Deck construction
 
I forgot to mention that deck beam supports  of wood have been added at all around last upper planking
Beams will guide me and support the roof deck later
 
A plywood piece of 1.3mm thick took place as deck flat base on top of which I did glue with fine barbeque round wooden meat  sticks --wonderful result ideal for decks you may try it--
The special bosh multi sander with 100 grit first  180 later sand paper gave me the desired flat  deck surface ready  to varnish

 
Deck  divided in 2 pieces for reasons of installation servo..moteur,,battery 
 
Forward deck piece is 1/3 of the whole length glued to beams
Aft deck piece 2/3 of the total length can be easily remove
With 4 inox screw of 6mm
 

Time for putty and ballast keel
as ballast a weight of 1.2 kg 0.8mm thick long lead[yellow line under ship]
glued with epoxy and 3 inox screw under wooden keel
and under the lead a thin false keel 2mm has been added to protect the lead

 
RUDDER CONTRUCTION DETAILS
this plan showing how connected the steering wheel
[red letters -hole fore secure pin -]
                                              [orange letters-   inox tubes or hard plastic filled with grease-]
I know i post pure and  sort details but i always hurry to do something else and my hands are still covered with glue. CHEERS.

Hi Ioannis
 
Nice job on your cutter and it looks like you're well in your way to launch day!
 
Did you make the cannon as well?
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Another talent here
Impressive build.

Nice work igor