jml1083

No you dont have to, but it would be smart.....otherwise you are flying blind.   Its a quick exercise and on a boat this size doesnt take very long.  This way as you are sanding and tweaking your planks and your strakes start to shift from strake to strake.....you will have your pencil lines there to keep you on track.  Plus this group project is about learning a skil you may have never tried before and doing it within a group may be a huge help in the end.
 
OR
 
Of course not😵.....You just have to make sure that you place your planks exactly where I placed mine and you must fair your hull exactly like I faired mine.  And you must of course bevel the edges of your planks exactly like I did.   Then I am sure you will have no problems and get a great fit.  This second part is just a joke in case it didnt come across that way.  LOL...
 
 
 

After completing the hull fairing on one side of the hull, I worked on lining it off. Here I used 1/8" painters tape. The bow area is a bit tricky to do and I anticipate some minor adjustments later.

Prior to installing the garboard the keel is held straight with a length of 1/4" x 1" ply.



So far, it appears that these pre-spiled planks are made slightly oversize, leaving room for adjustments.
 
Mike

Welcome to my build log of Chuck's Medway Longboat. Shortly after starting his build log, Chuck asked me if I would consider building one out of Swiss Pear. The idea being that it might be of interest to other builders as an alternative to yellow cedar. I will be using all of the laser cut parts available. Also, I want to make note of anything that I have found that helped me to build it. Unfortunately, this log has been started a bit late in the project and few photos are provided as of now. I will take many more as I move ahead.
 
I used a lap joint to attach the various components of the keel assembly. This was done on the mill. The frames were assembled and the keel attached as described by Chuck. Reinforced tape was used to hold the two sections of the build board together. I could see that the tape held the frames in position on the build board, so I added more tape in order to give this support to all the frames. This also flattens the bottom of the build board somewhat.

I felt that the transom needed more support than an upright located inside, so I added one outside as well. This made the transom quite rigid.

To secure the hull for fairing I clamped the build board down with a flat sheet of wood underneath to the edge of the work table. Between the tape and the clamping, the frames were held securely in preparation for fairing.
 
One side has been faired.

Clamped and ready for fairing.

Mike
 
 

Based on the maxim that there's never anything on a boat that isn't there for a reason, while watching this interesting build, I've been scratching my head about what could be the reason, if any other than decorative, for the "squiggle" top edge of the rudder blade. It looks a bit like a shark in need of orthodontia took a bite out of it. It's seemingly too high to serve the purpose of aiding in boarding the boat from the water, although rudder shapes have been cut for the purpose, sometime with a hole to provide a foothold. Could it serve some purpose in handling anchor rodes or anchors which might be draped over the notches when an anchor was carried out for kedging? Or is it just some old time boatbuilder's version of a "racing stripe," or a signature detail like today's Nike "swoosh?"
 
"Enquiring minds want to know." Is there some period wonk here that knows the answer, if any answer exists?
 

Working on the rudder
 

For the roller at the bow,  I chocked up a 1/8" x 1/8" strip in a dremel.  You can use a drill or even a mini lathe if you have one.   I first used a sanding stick to roughly turn it into an octagon.   Basically I just knocked off the corners a bit to make rounding it off easier.

I blackened it with a sharpie. and glued it into position.
 

Almost there with the hull.  Just have the thole pins and the rudder to do next.
 


 
 

Thank You
 
I added the fixed block at the stem on the starboard side.  Its pretty straight forward.   You only need one but I laser cut a bunch of extras for you guys because its tiny.  Just in case.
Glued the small pieces to the back like this.

Inserted 22 gauge black wire and snipped it off flush on the outside but left it sticking out on the other for the sheave.

Used 10 lb fishing line to make the four bolts as shown on the plans.  Sanded it and rounded off the edges.

Added the sheave but with no glue so it will be a working sheave.   Not that it really matters.

Then I glued it on the stem.

 

Pretty straight forward
 
 
 
 

Thanks....yes I am not a big fan of those brass and/or bulbous wooden belaying pins.  Easy enough to make them myself and you only need four for the longboat.   The knees are all finished now.   I will add the roller and fixed block sheave on the stem next.
 




 
 
 
 

Well done on getting the belaying pins proportionally correct, rather than the inflated chubby-handled ones that are seen on most kits and some scratch-built models.

Its this......instead of the sanding drum you see in the photo, I insert the 1/16" x 1/16" strip.  Its only abut 1" long so it wont wobble.  
 

Moving along to the mast thwart...
 
The ironwork was fairly straight forward.   I used 1/16" x .025 brass strip to make the three straps needed to hold the mast in position.   I of course drilled the three holes for the two bracket straps while the brass strip was flat   (#74 drill bit).   I used the plans to find their placement.  Then I bent the two brass straps to shape around some scrap wood the same thickness as the thwart.  The final iron strap was bent around a 3/8" dia. drill bit because that is how big the mast will be.  Then I bent back the ends so I had a half circle remaining.   Then the three pieces were blackened and glued into position.
 

Once glued into position below....I drilled through the holes in the straps part way.  Then I inserted small lengths of 24 gauge black wire into each hole.  I carefully filed them down so they stood proud of the straps and looked like bolts.  Then I touched up the blackening a bit.
 

I turned the four belaying pins from 1/16 x 1/16 boxwood strips in my dremel.  I use the flex shaft with the small pen-sized head while I turn the belaying pins to shape.  Here is a photo of Mike's belaying pins from Cheerful which are done the same way.

And this is what they look like finished on the thwart.
 

 
Next I will complete the knees along the sides of this thwart and the forward -most thwart.   That will complete most of the interior work before rigging starts.  Although I will make some oars and a grapnel too.  😄  That will leave the rudder and tiller and a few last details and the hull will be completed. and ready for rigging.
 

Just under the thwarts but on most cont. models one is shown in place and the other rests on top of the thwarts.  The mast was portable and not permanently stepped remember.   They would unhook the rigging and store that as well.
 
Everything about the rigging and masts were portable so the boat could be brought onboard the frigate and stored at the waste.

The Windlass is completed and installed.   All I had to do was reduce the ends of the windlass until they were cone shaped and able to fit into the slots of the brackets.  I just dis this by hand a little at a time with some sandpaper.  I constantly tested and adjusted the cone shape until it slid into the slots easy enough.  This meant shortening each side slightly.
 
The brackets are laser cut.  I removed the char and added the bolts while off the model.  I used black fishing line as usual.  The brackets are glued directly to the riser between the thwarts but actually under them.  This left a space on the bottom edge between the frames and the bracket as expected where it hangs below the riser.  So before gluing it into position, I added a 1/16" x 1/16" strip to the back, bottom edge of the bracket first.  This made it so the bracket was seated firmly against the frames and riser.  Before adding the bolts I held the bracket against the riser so I could mark the locations for them.  You can see how some line up with the frames.  While others are just into the riser.  This detail is shown on the plans.
 
The two windlass bars were shaped from a 1/8" x 1/8" strip.  I just rounded off one end as you see below by chocking it in my hand drill.   Then I squared off the other end as shown on the plans so they would fit in the square holes of the windlass.  I will only show one in position and just rest the other atop the thwarts.  But in the photos you see both installed just for the fun of it.
 

 

The colour of the flag was based on what Fleet the ship belonged to.
The Admiral of the Fleet chose the colour. It could be Red, Blue, or White.
The Red Cross is the English Flag, or the Flag of St. Andrew. The White 
Cross with Blue back round is the Flag of Scotland.
This is the Union Flag of 1705. The Flag of the Royal Navy, as we know it was
used from 1865 on. The White Flag with the Union Flag in the upper corner and 
the cross of St. Andrew
 
 
 
 

Richmond is correct.  That Red Ensign doesn't have the 'red X' for Ireland.  You want this one.

FYI.....as some have asked for dimensions of rigged model.   Rigged, this model will 23 1/2" long and 18 1/4" tall.  😊
This is the rigging plan for those that wont want to add sails...
 

Thanks guys.   Its time to make the windlass.  Some people may get nervous about shaping a piece of wood like this.  But if you just take your time and go slow it will go well.   I created templates that will be glued to all four sides of a 3/8 x 3/8" stick of cedar.   I used a glue stick to attach the templates.  Note how the stick is left a bit longer than the templates.  The ends will be rounded eventually to a cone shape.  I will wait to check its fit before I do that and trim each end to fit the space.
 

Then the corners were removed and sanded down to match the template as shown below.  I used a sharp #11 blade initially to remove the material quicker.  I shaved off the corners carefully and stopped just short of the line ob the templates.   Then I finished it up with 320 grit sandpaper.  I also drilled the holes for the windlass bars.  I used a #40 drill bit.   
 

The templates were removed easy enough by wetting them down and then they come right off.  I cleaned up the edges a bit by sanding and tweaking the edges until it looked nice and crisp.  Then I used my #11 blade again to carefully square up those holes.  The finished windlass up to this point is below.  Remember that I still have to reduce the ends to a cone shape so the windlass fits inside the brackets along the risers inboard.  That isnt a finished handle for the windlass.  That is just a 3/32" x 3/32" strip test fit in each hole.   I used a boxwood strip which is a hard wood.  It helped to make the square holes nice and crisp.  Just push them into the holes gently.  You can use any square strip this size even a brass strip which I didnt have handy.
 

 
You can see the windlass in the contemporary model below.....next I will be shaping the ends and adding the brackets so it can be installed.
 

 
 

Yes......more or less.   For a complete kit of all of the parts you will need to complete the hull (including friezes) it would cost $170 -  $175.   That is all cedar with boxwood accents.   
 
I am not sure what the starter package will cost which I originally stated would include the keel parts and frames along with the plans and base board. That was originally going to come in at around $110.  But then folks wanting to scratch the remaining parts including the planking would still need to buy the cedar sheets to complete the hull.  It doesnt make economical sense to have a starter package because after you buy the additional wood sheets you will need, it would end up costing about the same anyway.   But if you guys still want it, I will provide one.  I thought most would see that it doesnt make economical sense and instead would rather have all the laser cut parts anyway.  I am not pricing this kit to far beyond the materials and laser costs.   I want to see more people join the group and build the kit together.
 
The kit has about 25 laser cut sheets and additional strip wood, brass strip, wire and fishing line etc.....and the printed friezes.
 
What do guys think?  I think its quite affordable considering the new 1/2" scale MS kit which is basswood will cost you about $125.   I think its well worth an additional $50 considering the differences in the two kits.
 
The rigging package will follow but in all honesty you guys can get that stuff anywhere....I am thinking another $30 - $35 or so but it depends on the sail materials or silkspan.   But you guys can pick that stuff up anywhere.  Rope, blocks, wire, brass strips, Deadeyes and sail material with a flag.  The original hull kit will come with the rigging and sail plans.
 
Chuck

Erik....Does this help?   You should join the group.  What would be better to get your ship model juices flowing again.  The new model is abut 15 -16" long for the hull.  Then you have to of course add the mast ...yards and rigging. 😊
 

Thank You gentlemen!!
 
Just a quick comparison as the new larger and improved longboat is far enough along.  You can see how different and more elegant the shape is on the newer version.  It has a much fuller bow and as you proceed to the stern the newer version has a more pleasing curve.  You can see many other differences as well.  The floorboards and other features are more detailed and true to the Medway contemporary model.  
 


 
 

I finished painting the cockpit seats.  I also added the knees atop the last thwart and the knees and bracket along the inside of the transom.  The knees on the transom were tricky but not too bad.  They need to be beveled along the sides and back to fit the angles of the bulwarks and transom.  Also note that the center bracket or panel on the transom was added to the top of the stern post and sanded flush.  But before doing so, the stern post was reduced in height about 1/16" first.  This allowed the top of the panel to sit flush with the top of the transom.  Once this was glued into position and the knees added on either side,  they were all sanded flush with each other so you couldnt see any seams.  I used some wood filler for this too.  Once painted it looks nice and clean.  The notch on the center of that panel is used as a guide to file that same notch through the transom as well.  You can see that in the photos. I hope that makes sense.
 
Next up working my way forward will be the windlass.
 


 
 

Moving right along.....I will be working my way forward on the interior.  None of the thwarts are glued into position just yet.  There will be some things that need to be done to many of them as I work my way forward.  For example,  the seats in the cockpit need to be notched into the aft thwart.  The seats are what I did next.
 
The seats are laser cut in two layers just like the thwarts.  The laser char was removed from their edges and then they were glued up so there was a decorative edge on one side like shown in the photos and on the plans.  The two side seats were "tweaked" for the best fit first.  They are laser cut a bit long on purpose to give everyone some wiggle room with this.  You will be shaping and sanding and test fitting many times over until these fit properly.  Everyone's model will very slightly so the notches for the frames will need to be filed in.  BUT .....
 
-first, I beveled the aft edge of the seats so they sit flush against the transom which is angled.
 
-then I held the seat in position against the frames so I could mark their locations on the seat.
 
-I filed the notches for the frames a little at a time constantly testing the fit and adjusting.  The edge of the seat against the frames also must be beveled to sit properly against the inside planking. 
 
-When the slots for the frame were acceptable, I laid the seat in position to cut its forward edge to length knowing that it will be notched into the last thwart. You can see the notch I filed into the thwarts below.  Basically you must file away the lower layer of the thwart.
 

In the next photo you can see how it looks after test fitting.
 

Once they were glued into place,  the center seat was treated the same way and adjusted to fit.
 

 
This is how the whole model looks at this point.  Its getting close now with only a few more details to add.  The seats in the cockpit area will be painted red like one of the contemporary models.  The two contemporary models are painted differently but I think I will follow the scheme shown below in the unrigged contemporary version.  I also posted a photo of the rigged contemp. model to show you guys the difference.
 


 

Grumble about the time it takes to 'treenail'? Try a ship of the line!
 
Seriously, your model looks very nice, Chuck. One question: weren't bottom boards removable for bailing and repair purposes? If so, that means less treenails!

Installing the risers was up next.  They are designed in two pieces for each side.  They are laser cut with notches in them for the thwarts.  This means that the placement of these is crucial.  The very first thing I did was measure off the plan the distance from the top of the caprail down to the top edge of the riser.  I did this at every frame on both sides of the model so I was sure these would be placed at the same level port to starboard.  The aft piece is the first to be glued into position.  But I did add the nails ahead of time because I think it would be easier.  So I clamped it in position temporarily to mark the frame along the riser and then after unclamping, I drilled and inserted the fishing line for the nails.   This first piece is left a bit long just like I did with the planking.  So you need to mark the forward end in the middle of the frame and cut off the excess.  This is very important because the next section will butt against it and the thwart notches need to line up.  Its easy enough to do but you must be careful.  Then it was glued into position making sure that the top of aft end was level with the top of the bulkhead frame it sits against.  The cockpit seats will sit on top of this so they need to be level with each other. 
 
You could see the forward section waiting to be glued into position.  No trimming needed.  This just needs to be butt against the aft section tightly.
 

 
Here you can see both sections of the risers in position.

Then I made up the thwarts.  Like the floorboards these have a fancy edge.  Since scraping Cedar is problematic, I made each thwart in two layers glued together.  I just cleaned the char of the edges and glued the layers together creating an even fancy edge on both sides.
 
These are laser cut extra long as well.  You will need to cut them to length so they fit in the notches nicely.  You may have some that require some notching around the frames.  But its pretty straight forward stuff.  These are not glued in yet.  I will wait until I make the cockpit seats next and after some detailing on those which I will describe,  they will be glued unto position.  The center thwart with the cut away for the mast also needs detailing before it can be glued into position.  Its finally moving along and actually looks like a boat!!!  It wont be long now!!!
 
Feel free to ask me any questions.  This model really shows the beauty of the yellow cedar which I am really liking the more I use it.
 


 
 
 
 

You could but its tough to see where the frames are Mike.  So I held it up to the light because the hull is translucent and marked the locations for the frames on the outside of the hull.
 
Chuck