JeffT

the boats are looking good. I haven't done any of the boats yet.

I also want to add that there is a section on using CAD.

I have just finished reading this book and wanted to post my comments. First off, overall the book is excellent, probably one of the best of this type I've seen so far. Color pictures would be nice but its not really a negative for me because the pictures are excellent. The first thing that struck me as I was reading was I felt as if the author was treating me like I knew nothing about scratch building. That's perfect! The detailed explanations for crafting the different parts and the extensive use of pictures to demonstrate techniques and methods of building is outstanding. The details usually also include specifying what tools to use. Thank you! That's exactly what I hope to see when I open one of these books. There is even a section on making some home made tools like clamps and files.

The included plans are excellent also. I was surprised at how large of a model the Naiad is at 1/60 scale. The book also includes a CD with templates. There is a lot of bang for the buck.

My opinion is that you can use the techniques described in the book to build any model. I highly recommend that you add it to your library.

nice work on the stern! Its the first time I've seen that done with this kit.

I have the book also. I'm considering a build but its a toss up between a couple of others also. You could be the first

I'm building the Model Shipways version of the Constitution. I'm curious to see the differences so I will be watching your build.

looking good! are you planning to leave two sections open? Forward and aft?

I have this model also. My wife is from South Korea and wants me to build it. Its also available here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/220435859097?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Turn off the saw. Lower the saw blade below the insert, put in the insert and tighten the screws to firmly hold it down, turn on the saw, and raise the blade through the insert while it is running.

Thanks.

Hi Frank.I don't have any jigs and such but to cut the insert I do use the same size blade. It's aluminum  and doesn't seem to dull the blade.

Can that be demonstrated? I can't visualize how to do that.

I have no experience with Proxxon but I have a Dewalt which I find to be an excellent saw. Previously I had a Craftsman and the difference between the two is very noticeable to me.

Looks like you're doing pretty well on your build Bob. I don't mind questions at all.

Thanks Sarah. The stain pens are handy, no muss, no fuss. The brass nails I used have a rounded head, so all I had to do was cut the head off and glue it on.

Thanks Jay.

I've just finished the binnacles and the next step is the ships wheel. I think I will skip that for the time being while I figure out what method to use in building it. I'll move on to the capstan instead.

The following pictures show how the binnacles were made.

The first thing I did was glue some strips of wood together to form the basic shape of the binnacle. The practicum method suggests to cut the pieces to size but I found it way to difficult to work with such small pieces. So I cut the pieces to a longer length and worked from there as the following picture shows.

The plans suggest that the corner pieces of the binnacles were made of mahogany. I don't have any so I used a stain pen to color the wood.

I cut some 1/4 inch square pieces for the base and glued them on. Then it was just a matter of cutting the two pieces out to size.

Making the top per the practicum was not optimal in my opinion. It had you constructing the pyramid shape from multiple pieces. I chose an easier way by using the Byrnes sander to create a little pyramid on the end of a 5/32 square dowel. I cut it off and glued it to the top of the first piece. The picture shows the dowel and a completed piece.

To make the lantern on top I just used the head of a brass nail. For the color of the top piece I deviated from the practicum again. Instead of gluing a piece of gold leaf on each side of the top, I just used gold leaf paint that I got at Michaels. Much easier.

After that it was just a matter of gluing them on to the deck. You may also notice the shot racks on the gratings. I left the brass wire unpainted since i like the way it looks.

Another view

and one more

nice to see this log back up. i'm really looking forward to seeing this open hull design.

Now that MSW is back up and running, its time for an update. I have
finally finished the work on the bow after what seems like an eternity.
The exception is the scroll work which I'll do later. This is kind of a
major milestone in the Conny build as it completes all the major
structure and hull work. I can't believe I actually made it this far
since this is only my second ship kit.

If I follow the order of the practicum the next step will be the
outer hull details like the gunport covers, davits, and chainplates.
However, I think I'm going to skip ahead to the next chapter and do the
deck details first because it seems like it would be too easy to knock
stuff off of the hull if I do hull first.

Pictures follow.

you're right Harvey. There is really nothing to lose by trying.

thanks Jason!

Thanks Harvey, Greg, and Andrew.

I would like to try and carve it one way or another but I've never carved anything so I don't have much confidence.

I made the trip to Boston a few years ago to see the Constitution. It was a fantastic experience and Its a must do! So make the trip Andrew!

Jay,

I haven't decided yet what to do with scrolling on the bow. I think I'd like to try to carve it but the practicum really leaves out a lot of the detail on how to do it so I don't know. I may try it to see if I can do it. I did see what you did with the hawse pipes and I'm doing the same thing right now as a matter of fact. It does look like the right way to do it based on the plans and pictures.

I have my copy also!

Glad to see you got the log back up. Shes looking good!

Welcome back and glad to hear you are feeling better.

Excellent idea, thanks for posting.

I use a mechanical lead holder with 4H lead from my drafting/architecture school days such as this:

http://www.utrechtart.com/Kohinoor-Adapto-Lead-Holder-MP38148-i1011444.utrecht

http://www.utrechtart.com/Prismacolor-Premier-Turquoise-Mechanical-Pencil-Lead-Refills--2-0-mm--pack-of-12-MP33300-i1010974.utrecht

and also a sharpener which gives a nice sharp point, like this:

http://www.utrechtart.com/Alvin-Small-Rotary-Lead-Pointer--Sharpener-For-Mechanical-Pencils-MP49597-i1017015.utrecht

No doubt about that Jay. The bow has been the hardest part for me so far.