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Karinmutter

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Everything posted by Karinmutter

  1. Hello fellow shipbuilders, I made a few adjustments and I have added two "toilets", the bowsprit lashings (forgotten to mention in the manual) and the snaking. I have added a few pictures, which show the making of the "mouse". I used a wooden dowel, shaped it with my woodturning lathe and carefulle drilled a hole going through it to make room for the stay.
  2. Hello Sailor! You are right, the purpose of the mouse is to keep the loop from closing tight on the mast. I guess it distributes the forces more evenly and allows better control by changing the distance between the closed heart blocks. Greetings, Martin
  3. Hello Vane, thank you for your appreciation! As for your question: Threads, who are already black are not as easy to handle, because the coloring makes them stiffer. Also the desired "sag" is harder to accomplish. Inked threads are not as evenly coated, because of glue etc. This resembles the original ropes more, who were tarred and weathered. On the other hand it requires some extra work and you have to be careful not to get spots on the model. I covered the whole model with paper towels. In my previous models I had used thin black twine for the ratlines . They also give good results. Greetings, Martin
  4. Meanwhile I made the preventer stay. I found out that some ropes in the kit were missing, especially the 2.5 mms and the 1.3 mms. I ordered them online.
  5. I finally inked the ratlines and worked on the gaff and on the stays. The mouse was made out of an 8 mm dowel, I gave it a pear form on my turning wood lathe and drilled a 3 mm hole in the middle for the stay. I put 0.5 mm of masking rope where the stay goes around the mast. This was done by hand. The rope for the stay was initially white and I stained it. I also bought prestained rope, but it did not look very good and was thinner, so I did not use it.
  6. Thank you! For me tying the ratlines was fun, too. But I did stop whenever I felt tired or my arms were getting "heavy", fortunately there is no time pressure!
  7. I have finished the ratlines-almost. I still have to paint them black with China ink. I could not find a black thread that was as flexible as the unpainted ones. So I decided to paint them after putting them on, as recommended by the manual.
  8. I agree,that ship has something appealing to her, this is why I picked her in the first place.
  9. Hello Nils, thank you for your kind encouraging comment. Happy modelling and moin-moin 😉 Martin
  10. Hello Henke, thank you for the nice words. As for your question: I marked the position of the cathar pins with a tiny spot of paint on the shrouds. Then I put a little bit of superglue gel on the pin and pressed it gently against the shrouds,to keep their natural direction. Greetings, Martin
  11. Some new pictures. Finally I have managed to put on some shrouds. As a tool for the spacer, I used bent needles, a bit wider than recommended. One for one pair of deadeyes, and two for the second pair. The second needle made it more stable and the deadeye was fixed in a permanent position.
  12. Thank you Jim! It took me a lot longer than I had envisioned to make the yards. Plus we had a heat-wave here in Germany : working under the roof can be a real torture. But now I am running out of excuses, and I think the shrouds will not be such a big challenge. In my dreams I already see the finishing line 😉 Hope you are doing fine! Martin
  13. Hello community, I have finally finished the yards. I started the rigging with the side tackles. I will continue with the shrouds.
  14. Finally I have finished the masts and bowsprit. They are glued in and I can go to the next step: Probably standing rigging or preparing the yards. I did not put the yards on right now -as recommended in the instructions. In all my previous ships I made it that way,I feel that it is a lot easier that way.
  15. Hello vulcanbomber, I feel the same. There are a lot of little extras and sometimes the plans are not correct, so you have to find own solutions. Your project looks fine by the way!
  16. Thank you for the nice reply! Right now I have overpainted the black part of the foremast. Although "dull black"( admirality paints) is the recommended black by Caldercraft, I think it looks better in a more matt tone (without too much shining ). I stained the dowel (color : walnut) and put two layers of clear varnish on top. I put the dowels in a drilling machine (Bosch), layed it on my thighs, operated the speed with my right hand and the sandpaper with the left. One final remark : At the bottom of the fore topmast the instructions suggest to file the 8 mm dowel square. But it is impossible to have the required thickness that way. So I cut off the square bottom, took a piece of a 12 mm dowel, filed it square and glued it back on the fore topmast (with a brass nail connecting the two parts,because glue alone might be too weak. That fit in perfectly!
  17. I wish that you will get well soon. The "Agamemnon" is hard enough to do without a handicap. Good luck to you, too!
  18. Meanwhile I have started to make the masts. I had to replace the dowel of the main mast (14 mms) because it was not straight. The platfotm turned out to be warped after I had glued the two parts together. I had to press it overnight and make the wood wet. That solved the problem. The rings at the bottom that hold the spears were a bit too wide. I put an "iron ring (thick black paper) under each ring and glued it together.
  19. Finally some pictures of the boats where they will finally be. I will however put them aside for the moment to have access while I am doin the rigging.
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