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ricky86

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  1.    Canute reacted to a post in a topic: Long term CA vapors
  2.    Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic: Long term CA vapors
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  4. ricky86
    Thank you all for taking the time to respond. I am aware, CA does have its drawbacks. The convenience and speed vs clouding, stink and the ever present gluing of the fingers. Thanks Guys.
  5.    Canute reacted to a post in a topic: Long term CA vapors
  6.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Long term CA vapors
  7.    Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic: Long term CA vapors
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  9. ricky86
    Thanks guys. As always, picked up ideas No exposed wood except deck. I have painted the inside with cheap black craft paint. Well covered. I think maybe a light coat of poly over that. That’s probably overkill. Nothing inside to see anyway and the windows will be tinted gray. I’m getting so close. Another 6 - 7 years, I hope lol, it’ll be worthy of a pic. Hopefully. Always a pleasure Thanks.
  10.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Long term CA vapors
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  12.    Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic: Long term CA vapors
  13. ricky86
    Hi Slogging along with this Billings Nordkap 476. There are areas where CA is needed, like the window frames. They also receive either styrene or acetate inserts. I have canopy glue for that. Basically, very expensive Elmers Anyone know just how long CA gives off the vapors that cause the dreaded fog. Also, will a heavy coat of paint and or poly seal CA area. Thank you.
  14. ricky86
    Thanks, I will ck it out. First I’m going to work on my reading comprehension. Thank you.
  15. ricky86
    Why yes, yes they are. Thank you. Man, do I feel dumb. LOL
  16. ricky86
    Thank you. Never heard of it before. Will give it a shot. PS Rest assured, my planking results is anything but beautifully executed. LOL. Again, thanks for the tip.
  17. ricky86
    Good Evening. Got a hold of the Occre Titanic. At a very good price. I wanted the 1/200 plastic, but no room if I ever got it done. The hull planks are only .5 mm. I attempted using such thin strips before. Total disaster. Weeks of work turn out horrible. It looked soso till I primed it. But I did wind up with a lot of extra wood. lol. I’m at a loss. TBH, more like petrified Any suggestions about how much thicker I might be able to go? .5mm might work for a guy with skills I don’t have. Aside from the flow of the hull, they seem too fragile. I do use extra bulkheads when needed. Think 1.5mm would be ok? Thank you for any opinions or guidance. Rick
  18. ricky86
    Thanks guys. I did notice the glue gets a good bite. This char isn't black. It looks more like a glaze. Its coming off OK. Just using a lighter touch. I was going down to fresh wood. Too deep. Not necessary. But, dare I say, some shims were on the first few parts. Again, thanks for the responses.
  19. ricky86
    Concise answer. Thank you Jaager Rick
  20. ricky86
    Hi Sure it’s been covered 1000 times. Is it critical to remove the laser burn before glue. Using Titebond 2. I can agree it might impede some absorption, but.... Things fit so nice and tight before removal. Not so nice after. lol Thank you OcCre Buccaneer
  21. ricky86
    First post. A complete. novice on wooden ships. Not contradicting anybody’s advice. I can’t. LOL. Being in the same boat as you, I’ve wish I would have started on a larger scale. I’m working on a 1/187 scale. Parts are frustratingly tiny. There’s a lifetime of things to learn without dealing with the size of poor quality parts. Try filing an abundance of flash off a cleat that’s less than 1/4 inch. Yes, very relaxing. It was fairly expensive, but the quality is poor. I started it because it was a molded plastic hull. It just seems to make things more difficult than if the parts were larger. But, you may enjoy the challenge. I’m really looking forward to the next victim. Model Shipways pinky. Glad Tidings. It gigantic compared to the current project. And the difference in quality is amazing.

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