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    Døstrup, Denmark

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  1. Cześć Laps,

    Obejrzałem Twoją relację z budowy Amerigo Vespucci, jestem pod wrażeniem. Chciałem się zapytać czy w zestawie miałeś w zestawie rysunki i szkice maasztów, reji i takielunku. Ja o d znajomego dostałem niedokończony model, który próbuję dokończyć.  W tym celu ściągnąłem z internetu zeszyty z instrukcją, w zeszycie nr 8. do modelu brakuje jednak szkiców masztów i reji, ich grubości i długości.  Chciałbym prosić o pomoc w tej kwestii, jeśli posiadasz takie szkice czy mógłbyś mi je udostępnić w formie zdjęć lub skanów na  maila mirekmotyka@interia.pl  .  Przesyłam Ci zdjęcia moich prac nad projektem oraz zeszytu później dysponuję.  Serdecznie pozdrawiam Mirek.



  2. The starboard side of my AV is now more or less complete - just have to fit a few life preservers. The three small boats are in place in their davits and the stairs are complete. Now I can start all over with the port side 😄 /Lars Peter
  3. Rigging small boats I have started hanging the small boats from their davits, starting with the first rowing boat. This is time consuming work, took me around 3 hours for the first boat. A total of 8 blocks are needed per boat. First picture shows the attachment of the line to carry the weight of the boat. Next picture shows the two slings that will hold the boat to the davit. The slings are tied to the davit. Boat in place. The last picture shows the blocks for for the slings. I'm not sure where the lines for these should be tied off so for now I just tied them to the railings. Only 5 more to go 😩 /Lars Peter
  4. Just a quick update. I have completed the first small motor boat. The next picture shows the size compared to one of the large motor boats already in place on my AV. It is simply a scaled down version. The last rowing boat is waiting for paint and then I have one last small motor boat to make - almost done 😊 /Lars Peter
  5. Work continues on the rowing boat. The inside of the boat is more or less done. The bottom of the hull has gotten a coat of mahogany stain as the 1x1 mm strips of mahogany were of a different color. Everything else has gotten a coat of satin varnish. I'm considering staining the bench seat in back also as the wood was of a lighter color. Is may not look like much but more than a 100 small pieces of mahogany have been used for the inside of the boat. The first of the small motor boats has now been painted. There is quite a bit of bleed through of white paint I will have to remove. I will then stain it in some areas and give everything a coat of varnish. I broke the top of the rudder when I removed the masking tape. So I will have to do a bit of touch up here as well. The top of the rudder will also be painted black. Only thing remaining is to add the hardware. Only the last motor remains to be build which bring the total number of small boats for my AV up to 11. /Lars Peter
  6. Rowing boat 4 of 4 I still have 3 small boats to finish for my AV. 2 small motor boats and 1 rowing boat. I started on one of the motor boats which is currently being painted. I'm currently waiting for some small disposable pipettes to arrive as I'm having trouble transferring paint from the small paint can to the airbrush. It just results in a big mess! So I decided to finish the last rowing boats. It is a small plank on frame structure. Everything is glued with CA and accelerator to be able to secure the mahogany planks. The first picture shows the planking in progress. The boats is around 4 inches long. Once planked I did a rough sanding and covered everything with filler. The bottom will be painted. Once dry I sanded everything as smooth as possible with some 240 grit sand paper. I covered the stern with mahogany strips and turned my attention to the inside. First job was to remove the top of the frames and approximately half of the keel. Access is limited so I decided to use my Proxxon drill with a diamond burr. It worked out great for removing the remaining plywood and CA residue. Next up is to cover the vertical parts of the frames with mahogany strips. I remember this as quite a fiddly task. To be continued ... /Lars Peter
  7. Work on the deck house continues. With the reinforcing plywood I added to the top and bottom I realized that I was now unable to access the inside for adding glazing later on. So I cut a hole in the top. It will be covered by the roof anyway. I carefully marked out all the the windows and cut them out and gave the whole thing a light sanding in preparation for adding the mahogany siding. The 5 front windows have a thicker frame than the rest so I decided to start with these. The frames are cut from my own stash, carefully measured and cut off on the table saw using the miter gauge. They only need a light touch up with some fine sandpaper. The frames will be 12x18 mm. The window holes are slightly undersized and will be sanded to fit the frames. I quickly made a jig from some scrap wood to able to hold the frame together while the glue dries. I first add the bottom slat, put some CA glue on each side and slide them into the jig. Before the glue dries I add glue to the top and push it down into the jig using a small machinist square. This action squares up the frame and push the sides against the jig. I just have to be careful not to add too much glue to be able to remove the frame from the jig. I push it out using the square from the bottom side. The frame was then cleaned up using a small sanding block with some 240 grit sandpaper. The first hole was filed to fit the frame and the frame was pushed in until the frame protrudes 2 times the thickness of the side planking. I think it will look decent once given a coat of poly. /Lars Peter
  8. Time for an update. Planking of the hull is progressing well. I now have 6 planks laid on each side - plenty too go. I will post pictures of the hull once the planking is complete. The Abachi wood, I use for planking, is rather soft, so I'm actually considering covering the hull in fiberglass cloth once it has been sanded, filled etc. I did the same with for the Church ship Denmark restoration and it provides a very nice surface for painting. But more about that in the future. Alongside the hull planking I have started work on the deck house, starting with base. I replaced all the plywood for this as it was twisted anyway. From the box pictures it seems like the top of the base should overhang the side a little. I missed that until it was too late - so the top is sanded flush with sides. And no one will know how it should be except me (and you of course). The bottom was sanded to fit the contours of the deck. It went quite well and sits nice and flat without any gaps. I added a reinforcement strip on the inside to keep every straight as the 2 mm plywood isn't completely flat. For the deck house itself I choose to use the plywood supplied with the kit - I have glued the first 3 sides together adding some square stock in the corners for reinforcement. Mr. Boozoo came to visit 😒 - you may notice that I have not glued the sides on the same way. So I had to sand one side back 2 mm. It is no big deal as I will cover the deck house with Mahogany strips anyway and try to mimic the doors somehow. Openings will be cut once the deck house is assembled completely. A "door" will be glued to each side at a 22.5 degree angle which again will be glued to the curved front. After a bit of head scratching I came to the conclusion that to achieve a nice curved front I needed something a bit more substantial than the kit supplied "formers". So I made two "formers" of 4 mm plywood which accomplish both the angle for the doors and the curved front. It will not be easy to use clamps for the front so nails will be used until the glue dries. "Formers" glued in place. The deck house will be covered in 3.0x0.5 mm mahogany strips. Looking through my wood stash, I realized that I was running low. So a good opportunity to play with my new Byrne's table saw. I basically have an unlimited supply of Mahogany off-cuts from a local window production facility. So, I ran a plank through my planer. It has a helix head so the surface is nice and smooth. I then ripped a 3.0x30 mm strip on my big table saw. On the small saw I changed to a fine-toothed blade and started cutting away. I made some 1.5 mm strips (bottom), a 0.7 mm strip (middle) and a 0.3 mm strip. I cannot believe how accurate this saw is. Nice consistent thickness even for the thinnest strip. As I'm cutting on the left side of the blade I need to come up with a good way of moving the fence the correct distance for the 0.5 mm strips. That would be the thickness of the strip + the thickness of the blade = 1.5 mm. I only have a pair of digital calipers at the moment. I cannot get a good measurement between the blade and the fence with the fence extension in place. So, I'm actually planning to remove the extension, set the calipers at the correct measurement, put the calipers between the fence and the blade, move the fence over, tighten it and cut. For the next cut I will reset the calipers by subtracting 1.5 mm and repeat. /Lars Peter
  9. Hi All, When drilling larger diameters holes in the hull of model ships for portholes, masts etc. it can be a challenge to get a nice clean hole without damaging the wooden edges. Also the drill can wander off-center if the material underneath consists of different materials, for example plywood and balsa below the same hole. It is possible to start with a smaller diameter drill and then enlarge the hole with bigger drills or files. Drills for making holes in metal is to me a no-go in wood as they tend to wander off-center, especially in woods like pine. Drills specially designed for drilling holes in wood should be used. They usually have a point to ensure that the hole is drilled where it is supposed to be. Also, the circumference has sharp cutting edges (spurs); the purpose of these is to cut the wood fibers and secure a sharp edge. There are a lot of different manufacturers of brad-point drill bits for wood; they can all cut a hole but the quality of the hole varies a lot. As with a lot of things - the more you pay the better quality hole you get. So I thought I would share my preferred go-to brand of brad-point twist drills: https://www.fine-tools.com/holzspiralbohrer.html The spurs are very sharp and leaves a nice clean edge in any wood I have tried. The smallest diameter with spurs is 2 mm all the way up to 20 mm. As you can see, they are a bit pricey but they will last a life time for any modeler. If you are worried about the longevity, you can also get these drills with tungsten-carbide bits from 3 mm. /Lars Peter
  10. Both bulwarks are now glued in place. I cut both pieces a bit too short so I will have to add a filler piece at the stern. The top sides still remain to be sanded flush with the top of the frames. That's going to take some time. I will now start the planking process. It's a single planked hul - and it is big - so it will take time. But I don't foresee any big issues here. Abachi strips will be used. They are kind of course grained so I'm thinking about adding either a treatment of diluted wood glue or sanding sealer after planking and sanding. I believe the original Mary Ann had a steel hull so it is important to get a smooth unblemished surface before painting. Yesterday, the postman delivered this cute little thing 😊 It cost a small fortune in shipping and taxes but I will now be able to dimension my own lumber for model ship building. My Dad and I have quite a nice stash of different kind of lumber so I guess some money can be saved in the end. My current push sticks are a tad too large to be used with the small table saw so I will have to make some smaller ones preferably with a kind or rubber surface to prevent slipping when feeding small stock through the blade. Mr Byrne does not disappoint - I'm very impressed with the quality so far. I will purchase both the sliding table and the tilt table at some point - just to have the complete package. The main reason I bought the saw is to be able to make some customized grating for the Hjejlen paddle steamer project (Hjejlen) . Can wait to get started on that one in the future. /Lars Peter
  11. I also have written instruction for Hjejlen (the old VHT kit). It is 5 typewritten pages in Danish but I can translate it is necessary. Just say the word. /Lars Peter
  12. Thank you Popeye. I think the filler pieces were a wise choice. The 2 mm birch plywood held the shape nicely. I have now started gluing the first in place. I do this in two steps - mainly because I do not have enough strong clamps. I'll post a picture once both pieces a glued in place. /Lars Petet
  13. I've made a cardboard template for the bulwark walls. In the kit each wall was supplied in two pieces, probably because of the dimension of the plywood sheet. My 2 mm sheet were big enough to make the walls in one piece; thus the odd shape. The wall sits flush with the false deck. The top will be sanded flush with frames once the walls are glued in place. I soaked the ends of the wall in hot water and clamped it to the hull. It went quite well - no kinks or other issues. Once dry I will glue it in place. No I'm off to Finland for a couple of days so the model will have to wait. /Lars Peter
  14. I decided to play it safe and added some balsa filler pieces at the bow and stern. Doing some fitting with a test plank, I didn't think the curvature looked right. It looks much better now and the increased gluing surface won't hurt either. This morning I spend some putting everything into shape for planking. Now I have to turn my attention to make the bulwark pieces. There are also missing so I will have to bring out my trusted cardboard once again and make a template for cutting the plywood. /Lars Peter
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