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    Døstrup, Denmark

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  1. I will follow this very closely. I have the complete kit in my stash, so it will be nice to get ll the knowledge I can. /Lars Peter
  2. Time for an update. Planking of the hull is progressing well. I now have 6 planks laid on each side - plenty too go. I will post pictures of the hull once the planking is complete. The Abachi wood, I use for planking, is rather soft, so I'm actually considering covering the hull in fiberglass cloth once it has been sanded, filled etc. I did the same with for the Church ship Denmark restoration and it provides a very nice surface for painting. But more about that in the future. Alongside the hull planking I have started work on the deck house, starting with base. I replaced all the plywood for this as it was twisted anyway. From the box pictures it seems like the top of the base should overhang the side a little. I missed that until it was too late - so the top is sanded flush with sides. And no one will know how it should be except me (and you of course). The bottom was sanded to fit the contours of the deck. It went quite well and sits nice and flat without any gaps. I added a reinforcement strip on the inside to keep every straight as the 2 mm plywood isn't completely flat. For the deck house itself I choose to use the plywood supplied with the kit - I have glued the first 3 sides together adding some square stock in the corners for reinforcement. Mr. Boozoo came to visit 😒 - you may notice that I have not glued the sides on the same way. So I had to sand one side back 2 mm. It is no big deal as I will cover the deck house with Mahogany strips anyway and try to mimic the doors somehow. Openings will be cut once the deck house is assembled completely. A "door" will be glued to each side at a 22.5 degree angle which again will be glued to the curved front. After a bit of head scratching I came to the conclusion that to achieve a nice curved front I needed something a bit more substantial than the kit supplied "formers". So I made two "formers" of 4 mm plywood which accomplish both the angle for the doors and the curved front. It will not be easy to use clamps for the front so nails will be used until the glue dries. "Formers" glued in place. The deck house will be covered in 3.0x0.5 mm mahogany strips. Looking through my wood stash, I realized that I was running low. So a good opportunity to play with my new Byrne's table saw. I basically have an unlimited supply of Mahogany off-cuts from a local window production facility. So, I ran a plank through my planer. It has a helix head so the surface is nice and smooth. I then ripped a 3.0x30 mm strip on my big table saw. On the small saw I changed to a fine-toothed blade and started cutting away. I made some 1.5 mm strips (bottom), a 0.7 mm strip (middle) and a 0.3 mm strip. I cannot believe how accurate this saw is. Nice consistent thickness even for the thinnest strip. As I'm cutting on the left side of the blade I need to come up with a good way of moving the fence the correct distance for the 0.5 mm strips. That would be the thickness of the strip + the thickness of the blade = 1.5 mm. I only have a pair of digital calipers at the moment. I cannot get a good measurement between the blade and the fence with the fence extension in place. So, I'm actually planning to remove the extension, set the calipers at the correct measurement, put the calipers between the fence and the blade, move the fence over, tighten it and cut. For the next cut I will reset the calipers by subtracting 1.5 mm and repeat. /Lars Peter
  3. Hi All, When drilling larger diameters holes in the hull of model ships for portholes, masts etc. it can be a challenge to get a nice clean hole without damaging the wooden edges. Also the drill can wander off-center if the material underneath consists of different materials, for example plywood and balsa below the same hole. It is possible to start with a smaller diameter drill and then enlarge the hole with bigger drills or files. Drills for making holes in metal is to me a no-go in wood as they tend to wander off-center, especially in woods like pine. Drills specially designed for drilling holes in wood should be used. They usually have a point to ensure that the hole is drilled where it is supposed to be. Also, the circumference has sharp cutting edges (spurs); the purpose of these is to cut the wood fibers and secure a sharp edge. There are a lot of different manufacturers of brad-point drill bits for wood; they can all cut a hole but the quality of the hole varies a lot. As with a lot of things - the more you pay the better quality hole you get. So I thought I would share my preferred go-to brand of brad-point twist drills: https://www.fine-tools.com/holzspiralbohrer.html The spurs are very sharp and leaves a nice clean edge in any wood I have tried. The smallest diameter with spurs is 2 mm all the way up to 20 mm. As you can see, they are a bit pricey but they will last a life time for any modeler. If you are worried about the longevity, you can also get these drills with tungsten-carbide bits from 3 mm. /Lars Peter
  4. Both bulwarks are now glued in place. I cut both pieces a bit too short so I will have to add a filler piece at the stern. The top sides still remain to be sanded flush with the top of the frames. That's going to take some time. I will now start the planking process. It's a single planked hul - and it is big - so it will take time. But I don't foresee any big issues here. Abachi strips will be used. They are kind of course grained so I'm thinking about adding either a treatment of diluted wood glue or sanding sealer after planking and sanding. I believe the original Mary Ann had a steel hull so it is important to get a smooth unblemished surface before painting. Yesterday, the postman delivered this cute little thing 😊 It cost a small fortune in shipping and taxes but I will now be able to dimension my own lumber for model ship building. My Dad and I have quite a nice stash of different kind of lumber so I guess some money can be saved in the end. My current push sticks are a tad too large to be used with the small table saw so I will have to make some smaller ones preferably with a kind or rubber surface to prevent slipping when feeding small stock through the blade. Mr Byrne does not disappoint - I'm very impressed with the quality so far. I will purchase both the sliding table and the tilt table at some point - just to have the complete package. The main reason I bought the saw is to be able to make some customized grating for the Hjejlen paddle steamer project (Hjejlen) . Can wait to get started on that one in the future. /Lars Peter
  5. I also have written instruction for Hjejlen (the old VHT kit). It is 5 typewritten pages in Danish but I can translate it is necessary. Just say the word. /Lars Peter
  6. Thank you Popeye. I think the filler pieces were a wise choice. The 2 mm birch plywood held the shape nicely. I have now started gluing the first in place. I do this in two steps - mainly because I do not have enough strong clamps. I'll post a picture once both pieces a glued in place. /Lars Petet
  7. I've made a cardboard template for the bulwark walls. In the kit each wall was supplied in two pieces, probably because of the dimension of the plywood sheet. My 2 mm sheet were big enough to make the walls in one piece; thus the odd shape. The wall sits flush with the false deck. The top will be sanded flush with frames once the walls are glued in place. I soaked the ends of the wall in hot water and clamped it to the hull. It went quite well - no kinks or other issues. Once dry I will glue it in place. No I'm off to Finland for a couple of days so the model will have to wait. /Lars Peter
  8. I decided to play it safe and added some balsa filler pieces at the bow and stern. Doing some fitting with a test plank, I didn't think the curvature looked right. It looks much better now and the increased gluing surface won't hurt either. This morning I spend some putting everything into shape for planking. Now I have to turn my attention to make the bulwark pieces. There are also missing so I will have to bring out my trusted cardboard once again and make a template for cutting the plywood. /Lars Peter
  9. Well, it wasn't as difficult as I thought. I cut out the false deck, didn't cut it in half and it fit on the first try 😊 False deck is now glued in place - plenty of Tightbond and some nails did the trick. Once dry, it is not going anywhere. The deck has a slight chamfer as it should. A perfect fit of the false deck is not crucial as it will be planked later anyway. Now the dreaded sanding. /Lars Peter
  10. No filler pieces are included in the kit. I was actually thinking of adding them but after adding the deck supports the framing structure is actually quite rigid. Planking will be done using 1.8x6 mm strips so I think I may be able to do without filler blocks. I do a test when I have fared the hull. The model is proceeding quite well. I have finished gluing the frames into place, added the the longitudinal deck supports and added the last to rabbet pieces at the stern. Still have to add the keel rabbet pieces. I will do that once the hull are ready for planking. Next task was to make the false deck (yeah, it is also missing). I began be making a pattern out of cardboard. I marked the center line. Then I removed the pattern from the model, draw the center line and cut of most of the overhang. The pattern was then traced onto a piece of 2 mm plywood. Now come the fiddly job of cutting out the false deck and fitting it to the hull. I will have to cut in half for fitting. /Lars Peter
  11. Framing of Mary Ann is progressing nicely. No issues so far except that the length of the filler pieces has to be adjusted to accommodate the thickness of the frames which deviates from the instruction a bit. I hope I got each frame in the almost correct position. I put up a string to mark the center line, using this and a square to ensure a 90 degree angle in both planes. 4 more frames to go before I can move on to the deck supports. /Lars Peter
  12. I have now added the stern and bow rabbet pieces. Made them the same way as the deck supports in my previous post. I made a quick framing jig and has now started the framing process. The first frame has been glued in place ensuring 90 degree angle all the way around. I have two more rabbet pieces for the stern to attach. I will not do that until all the frames are in potions as it may have to adjusted to fit with frame 10. /Lars Peter This photo is supposed to added in portrait format not landscape. But my skills are obviously not good enough to figure out how to do that. So please tilt you screen 90 degress 😉
  13. I have solved the deck chamfer problem. Looking at the parts list in the instructions I noticed that the pieces showed in my previous post indeed should have a slight chamfer. I played around with my laptop and a printer and managed to print out the needed parts at the correct scale. I cut them out, glued them to a piece of 4 m plywood, cut them out and voila new parts ready. I realized that part 3a was missing entirely. Didn't clean up the bottom of deck supports because it will be hidden anyway; thus, the crooked look of some of the parts. Regarding part 13, I don't really know what was going on with the original parts, but the new parts have the correct shape 😲 Next up the rabbet pieces. /Lars Peter
  14. I was looking at some of the deck supports (some are missing) cut out by the previous builder. It is difficult to determine whether there should be a slight chamfer to the deck. From the visible lines it seems like some are completely flat while others seem to have a slight curve. No help from the instruction or plans. Does any of you have any idea whether there is a slight chamfer or whether the deck sits completely flat. Perhaps someone with a newer version of the kit (laser cut parts) have noticed anything related to this. Of course it is easier to make flat parts but I would like to make it right. /Lars Peter
  15. Today I got a stack of new plywood, 1.0, 2.0 and 4.0 mm and went straight to the shipyard. I remade the 3 pieces for the keel assembly and a new frame 8. Only downside is that the new 4 mm ply is slightly thinner, 0.6 mm, than the old 4 mm plywood supplied with kit 😒 Thus, the remaining old frames do not fit snugly on the keel. So I will have to glue on some filler pieces and then file the slots down to fit. Not a big deal but still a bit annoying. The keel structure is now ready for gluing. Before I fit any frame I will have to remake all the rabbet pieces. Some were already glued on the stern pieces and the rest is poorly cut out and cannot be used. But compared to fiddling with the small boats for my AV, this is easy - big pieces to work with 😊 The overall length of the finished model will be somewhere around 550 mm. /Lars Peter

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