6ohiocav

Getting a little tired of trying to figure out how to load the photos in the right order. All of the remaining photos kept loading in reverse order.
 
Come on guys, I spend more time trying to figure out how to post photos of the things I build than the time I spend actually building the darn things.

BOWER ANCHORS
Time to work on the anchors. I created the stocks out of cherry. Not an easy task.  There are tapers on three sides.  I traced a rough pattern from the plans, did a rough cut on the band saw, and finished them off on the disc sander.
I then rigged the Anchor Ropes. I used a photo of the actual ship for the pattern on the lines.
I wrapped .018 brown rope around the Anchor rings.  That was a tedious process. I ran one end into the anchor mortice, and then inserted the ring (made out of .20 metal wire) to secure one end. Then with two tweezers, began the wrapping.  I tied it off at the end and froze it with a spot of CA.
I will work on attaching the anchors this weekend. I need to construct chaffing blocks on both sides of the holes I drilled in the hull for the anchor line, and open up the front corners of the grates on my forward hatch. That means delicate destruction work on the ship again. UGHH.
Here are some photos of the anchor assembly.

BOWER ANCHORS
Time to work on the anchors. I created the stocks out of cherry. Not an easy task.  There are tapers on three sides.  I traced a rough pattern from the plans, did a rough cut on the band saw, and finished them off on the disc sander.
I then rigged the Anchor Ropes. I used a photo of the actual ship for the pattern on the lines.
I wrapped .018 brown rope around the Anchor rings.  That was a tedious process. I ran one end into the anchor mortice, and then inserted the ring (made out of .20 metal wire) to secure one end. Then with two tweezers, began the wrapping.  I tied it off at the end and froze it with a spot of CA.
I will work on attaching the anchors this weekend. I need to construct chaffing blocks on both sides of the holes I drilled in the hull for the anchor line, and open up the front corners of the grates on my forward hatch. That means delicate destruction work on the ship again. UGHH.
Here are some photos of the anchor assembly.

I wish someone would have told me to lash my brace blocks to the masts and shrouds before I stepped the masts and rigged the ship!
 
I will soon begin work on building a lighted case and have a place already reserved in my law office to display her.

Mike,
Thanks for the heads up. So far, all of the standing and running rigging lines I installed are holding up, and since I started this process so long ago, I would have to say that any stretching has already occurred.
 
It is great to see other Niagara logs out there. I can remember when it was only the two of us.
 
 
 

I wish someone would have told me to lash my brace blocks to the masts and shrouds before I stepped the masts and rigged the ship!
 
I will soon begin work on building a lighted case and have a place already reserved in my law office to display her.

Mike,
Thanks for the heads up. So far, all of the standing and running rigging lines I installed are holding up, and since I started this process so long ago, I would have to say that any stretching has already occurred.
 
It is great to see other Niagara logs out there. I can remember when it was only the two of us.
 
 
 

I wish someone would have told me to lash my brace blocks to the masts and shrouds before I stepped the masts and rigged the ship!
 
I will soon begin work on building a lighted case and have a place already reserved in my law office to display her.

Mike,
Thanks for the heads up. So far, all of the standing and running rigging lines I installed are holding up, and since I started this process so long ago, I would have to say that any stretching has already occurred.
 
It is great to see other Niagara logs out there. I can remember when it was only the two of us.
 
 
 

Mike,
Thanks for the heads up. So far, all of the standing and running rigging lines I installed are holding up, and since I started this process so long ago, I would have to say that any stretching has already occurred.
 
It is great to see other Niagara logs out there. I can remember when it was only the two of us.
 
 
 

BRACES
Moving along to completion. The last major rigging task is the braces, and boy was this more difficult than it needed to be. Sixteen blocks needed to be seized, most to the shrouds, some to the tops on both masts, and SHOULD HAVE BEEN DONE BEFORE I DID ANY RIGGING.
**** WARNING**** TO ALL NIAGARA BUILDERS – SEIZE THE BRACES BLOCKS EARLY.
All of the blocks on the upper shrouds could have been attached while my masts were still on the bench. It would have been so easy!
Instead, I had to strop a set of 1/8 and 5/32 blocks with long lines, seize the lines to the block, snake the line through a mess of rigging to wrap around the shroud or bar on the tops, pull it through away from the model, tie a seizing, then pull the tail and with tweezers snake the block back through the rigging lines up against the shroud, then reach through to tighten the seizing lines, apply a spot of glue to freeze the knot, and if that is not hard enough (or stressful), then insert an x-acto knife and cut the ends off as close to the knot as possible, without cutting something else.
This took me the entire weekend. I kept smacking yards, back stays, and shrouds with my hands, my tweezers, my pliers, my knife, my kitchen sink…. You get the picture. Thankfully, everything except a couple of ratlines held up.  The 4 blocks seized under the lower top on the foremast were by far the hardest. There were at least 8 rigging lines and back stays to work around.
As soon as I get everything done on deck, and insert the hammock stanchions, I will rig the braces, (last thing) since that will completely encapsulate the space between the masts. 
Here are some photos. The knots are not up to par, but only in close up pictures. From afar, you can hardly see the blocks.

Tom, Mark and Mike, thanks for stopping in. I think I may shoot for more space, and leave one of the skylights off. I would have followed Mike's lead on his Niagara and place a grating with a ladder if I had not spent all of that time building the structures.
 
I have said this many times before, but I could not have completed this kit, and survive all of the challenges without the collective wisdom and willing contributors from our forum friends.
 

BRACES
Moving along to completion. The last major rigging task is the braces, and boy was this more difficult than it needed to be. Sixteen blocks needed to be seized, most to the shrouds, some to the tops on both masts, and SHOULD HAVE BEEN DONE BEFORE I DID ANY RIGGING.
**** WARNING**** TO ALL NIAGARA BUILDERS – SEIZE THE BRACES BLOCKS EARLY.
All of the blocks on the upper shrouds could have been attached while my masts were still on the bench. It would have been so easy!
Instead, I had to strop a set of 1/8 and 5/32 blocks with long lines, seize the lines to the block, snake the line through a mess of rigging to wrap around the shroud or bar on the tops, pull it through away from the model, tie a seizing, then pull the tail and with tweezers snake the block back through the rigging lines up against the shroud, then reach through to tighten the seizing lines, apply a spot of glue to freeze the knot, and if that is not hard enough (or stressful), then insert an x-acto knife and cut the ends off as close to the knot as possible, without cutting something else.
This took me the entire weekend. I kept smacking yards, back stays, and shrouds with my hands, my tweezers, my pliers, my knife, my kitchen sink…. You get the picture. Thankfully, everything except a couple of ratlines held up.  The 4 blocks seized under the lower top on the foremast were by far the hardest. There were at least 8 rigging lines and back stays to work around.
As soon as I get everything done on deck, and insert the hammock stanchions, I will rig the braces, (last thing) since that will completely encapsulate the space between the masts. 
Here are some photos. The knots are not up to par, but only in close up pictures. From afar, you can hardly see the blocks.

Tom, Mark and Mike, thanks for stopping in. I think I may shoot for more space, and leave one of the skylights off. I would have followed Mike's lead on his Niagara and place a grating with a ladder if I had not spent all of that time building the structures.
 
I have said this many times before, but I could not have completed this kit, and survive all of the challenges without the collective wisdom and willing contributors from our forum friends.
 

BRACES
Moving along to completion. The last major rigging task is the braces, and boy was this more difficult than it needed to be. Sixteen blocks needed to be seized, most to the shrouds, some to the tops on both masts, and SHOULD HAVE BEEN DONE BEFORE I DID ANY RIGGING.
**** WARNING**** TO ALL NIAGARA BUILDERS – SEIZE THE BRACES BLOCKS EARLY.
All of the blocks on the upper shrouds could have been attached while my masts were still on the bench. It would have been so easy!
Instead, I had to strop a set of 1/8 and 5/32 blocks with long lines, seize the lines to the block, snake the line through a mess of rigging to wrap around the shroud or bar on the tops, pull it through away from the model, tie a seizing, then pull the tail and with tweezers snake the block back through the rigging lines up against the shroud, then reach through to tighten the seizing lines, apply a spot of glue to freeze the knot, and if that is not hard enough (or stressful), then insert an x-acto knife and cut the ends off as close to the knot as possible, without cutting something else.
This took me the entire weekend. I kept smacking yards, back stays, and shrouds with my hands, my tweezers, my pliers, my knife, my kitchen sink…. You get the picture. Thankfully, everything except a couple of ratlines held up.  The 4 blocks seized under the lower top on the foremast were by far the hardest. There were at least 8 rigging lines and back stays to work around.
As soon as I get everything done on deck, and insert the hammock stanchions, I will rig the braces, (last thing) since that will completely encapsulate the space between the masts. 
Here are some photos. The knots are not up to par, but only in close up pictures. From afar, you can hardly see the blocks.

Ron,
 
The paint job looks great! I agree with Mike, paint makes all the difference, and of course, a bad one ruins the best craftsmanship. Yours is spot on.

Tom,
 
You "got it" on the garboard plank.  Looks good. If you paint the hull per the plans, you can get away with some planking deficiencies that will be corrected with some filler and sanding before painting. Great work!

Tom, Mark and Mike, thanks for stopping in. I think I may shoot for more space, and leave one of the skylights off. I would have followed Mike's lead on his Niagara and place a grating with a ladder if I had not spent all of that time building the structures.
 
I have said this many times before, but I could not have completed this kit, and survive all of the challenges without the collective wisdom and willing contributors from our forum friends.
 

BRACES
Moving along to completion. The last major rigging task is the braces, and boy was this more difficult than it needed to be. Sixteen blocks needed to be seized, most to the shrouds, some to the tops on both masts, and SHOULD HAVE BEEN DONE BEFORE I DID ANY RIGGING.
**** WARNING**** TO ALL NIAGARA BUILDERS – SEIZE THE BRACES BLOCKS EARLY.
All of the blocks on the upper shrouds could have been attached while my masts were still on the bench. It would have been so easy!
Instead, I had to strop a set of 1/8 and 5/32 blocks with long lines, seize the lines to the block, snake the line through a mess of rigging to wrap around the shroud or bar on the tops, pull it through away from the model, tie a seizing, then pull the tail and with tweezers snake the block back through the rigging lines up against the shroud, then reach through to tighten the seizing lines, apply a spot of glue to freeze the knot, and if that is not hard enough (or stressful), then insert an x-acto knife and cut the ends off as close to the knot as possible, without cutting something else.
This took me the entire weekend. I kept smacking yards, back stays, and shrouds with my hands, my tweezers, my pliers, my knife, my kitchen sink…. You get the picture. Thankfully, everything except a couple of ratlines held up.  The 4 blocks seized under the lower top on the foremast were by far the hardest. There were at least 8 rigging lines and back stays to work around.
As soon as I get everything done on deck, and insert the hammock stanchions, I will rig the braces, (last thing) since that will completely encapsulate the space between the masts. 
Here are some photos. The knots are not up to par, but only in close up pictures. From afar, you can hardly see the blocks.

DILEMMA – PLAN ACCURACY (FOR THE REPLICA SHIP) OR HISTORICAL ACCURACY
Those of you that have reviewed previous portions of this log, or have studied the Niagara, know that there is a historical anomaly regarding Model Shipways Niagara Kit. It is based on the Replica Ship owned by the State of Pennsylvania and moored at Erie, Pa. I was drawn to this kit because I was born in a town on the banks of Lake Erie, and have a driving interest in military history, and Commadore Perry’s exploits during the famous battle on Lake Erie during the War of 1812 are absolutely fascinating.
I come to find out that the US Niagara, which I had seen in person at a tall ships event in Cleveland Ohio, is not the restored original ship that Perry used to defeat the British (it rotted out of existence). It is a replica, and no plans really exist of the original. While the current ship is a good rendition, it has some modern amenities that would not have been present on the 19th century ship.
That conflict hits the kit builder squarely in the face when the decision to place the companionway (which by most accounts, and based on a number of contributors on the forum, was not present on the historical ship) the skylights (which would likely have been on the historical ship), and the capstan (which definitely was on the original ship and was a real workhorse) come into play.
So here is my dilemma. I scratch built the two skylights and the companionway based on the plans, and built the capstan with laser-cut kit parts. When you place all of these strutures on the ship as per the plans, it is INCREDIBLY CROWDED.  The Capstan is literally wedged between the forward skylight and the companionway, so much so, to be almost useless, and that is after raising the height so that the wood bars could actually turn without hitting something. The forward skylight also is right up against the pumps, making for more cramped space.
In the attached photos, I have demonstrated the problem.  The first photo is a design that leaves the aft skylight out.The second is with all of the structures as per the plan.
By the way, I looked at some photos of the replica ship and YES, it is very crowded indeed, so the plans are accurate.
Any thoughts out there.  By the PLANS, or BASED ON HISTORY AND UTILITY??? Two skylights and the companionway, or leave out one of the skylights and give the crew some room to maneuver???

CAPSTAN PLATFORM
I decided that I had better get all of my deck furniture and structures finished and glued down before I do any more rigging. I had to build a platform for my Capstan that I built over a year ago. The plans call for it, and comparing the Capstan to the adjacent Skylights, I definitely need one to raise the height so that the wood handles when attached to turn it rise above the tops.
Here are the photos on how I did mine.  I could have just added a square piece of cherry, but decided to do a little joinery, even though it is on the bottom and won’t be seen.

DILEMMA – PLAN ACCURACY (FOR THE REPLICA SHIP) OR HISTORICAL ACCURACY
Those of you that have reviewed previous portions of this log, or have studied the Niagara, know that there is a historical anomaly regarding Model Shipways Niagara Kit. It is based on the Replica Ship owned by the State of Pennsylvania and moored at Erie, Pa. I was drawn to this kit because I was born in a town on the banks of Lake Erie, and have a driving interest in military history, and Commadore Perry’s exploits during the famous battle on Lake Erie during the War of 1812 are absolutely fascinating.
I come to find out that the US Niagara, which I had seen in person at a tall ships event in Cleveland Ohio, is not the restored original ship that Perry used to defeat the British (it rotted out of existence). It is a replica, and no plans really exist of the original. While the current ship is a good rendition, it has some modern amenities that would not have been present on the 19th century ship.
That conflict hits the kit builder squarely in the face when the decision to place the companionway (which by most accounts, and based on a number of contributors on the forum, was not present on the historical ship) the skylights (which would likely have been on the historical ship), and the capstan (which definitely was on the original ship and was a real workhorse) come into play.
So here is my dilemma. I scratch built the two skylights and the companionway based on the plans, and built the capstan with laser-cut kit parts. When you place all of these strutures on the ship as per the plans, it is INCREDIBLY CROWDED.  The Capstan is literally wedged between the forward skylight and the companionway, so much so, to be almost useless, and that is after raising the height so that the wood bars could actually turn without hitting something. The forward skylight also is right up against the pumps, making for more cramped space.
In the attached photos, I have demonstrated the problem.  The first photo is a design that leaves the aft skylight out.The second is with all of the structures as per the plan.
By the way, I looked at some photos of the replica ship and YES, it is very crowded indeed, so the plans are accurate.
Any thoughts out there.  By the PLANS, or BASED ON HISTORY AND UTILITY??? Two skylights and the companionway, or leave out one of the skylights and give the crew some room to maneuver???

CAPSTAN PLATFORM
I decided that I had better get all of my deck furniture and structures finished and glued down before I do any more rigging. I had to build a platform for my Capstan that I built over a year ago. The plans call for it, and comparing the Capstan to the adjacent Skylights, I definitely need one to raise the height so that the wood handles when attached to turn it rise above the tops.
Here are the photos on how I did mine.  I could have just added a square piece of cherry, but decided to do a little joinery, even though it is on the bottom and won’t be seen.

DILEMMA – PLAN ACCURACY (FOR THE REPLICA SHIP) OR HISTORICAL ACCURACY
Those of you that have reviewed previous portions of this log, or have studied the Niagara, know that there is a historical anomaly regarding Model Shipways Niagara Kit. It is based on the Replica Ship owned by the State of Pennsylvania and moored at Erie, Pa. I was drawn to this kit because I was born in a town on the banks of Lake Erie, and have a driving interest in military history, and Commadore Perry’s exploits during the famous battle on Lake Erie during the War of 1812 are absolutely fascinating.
I come to find out that the US Niagara, which I had seen in person at a tall ships event in Cleveland Ohio, is not the restored original ship that Perry used to defeat the British (it rotted out of existence). It is a replica, and no plans really exist of the original. While the current ship is a good rendition, it has some modern amenities that would not have been present on the 19th century ship.
That conflict hits the kit builder squarely in the face when the decision to place the companionway (which by most accounts, and based on a number of contributors on the forum, was not present on the historical ship) the skylights (which would likely have been on the historical ship), and the capstan (which definitely was on the original ship and was a real workhorse) come into play.
So here is my dilemma. I scratch built the two skylights and the companionway based on the plans, and built the capstan with laser-cut kit parts. When you place all of these strutures on the ship as per the plans, it is INCREDIBLY CROWDED.  The Capstan is literally wedged between the forward skylight and the companionway, so much so, to be almost useless, and that is after raising the height so that the wood bars could actually turn without hitting something. The forward skylight also is right up against the pumps, making for more cramped space.
In the attached photos, I have demonstrated the problem.  The first photo is a design that leaves the aft skylight out.The second is with all of the structures as per the plan.
By the way, I looked at some photos of the replica ship and YES, it is very crowded indeed, so the plans are accurate.
Any thoughts out there.  By the PLANS, or BASED ON HISTORY AND UTILITY??? Two skylights and the companionway, or leave out one of the skylights and give the crew some room to maneuver???

DILEMMA – PLAN ACCURACY (FOR THE REPLICA SHIP) OR HISTORICAL ACCURACY
Those of you that have reviewed previous portions of this log, or have studied the Niagara, know that there is a historical anomaly regarding Model Shipways Niagara Kit. It is based on the Replica Ship owned by the State of Pennsylvania and moored at Erie, Pa. I was drawn to this kit because I was born in a town on the banks of Lake Erie, and have a driving interest in military history, and Commadore Perry’s exploits during the famous battle on Lake Erie during the War of 1812 are absolutely fascinating.
I come to find out that the US Niagara, which I had seen in person at a tall ships event in Cleveland Ohio, is not the restored original ship that Perry used to defeat the British (it rotted out of existence). It is a replica, and no plans really exist of the original. While the current ship is a good rendition, it has some modern amenities that would not have been present on the 19th century ship.
That conflict hits the kit builder squarely in the face when the decision to place the companionway (which by most accounts, and based on a number of contributors on the forum, was not present on the historical ship) the skylights (which would likely have been on the historical ship), and the capstan (which definitely was on the original ship and was a real workhorse) come into play.
So here is my dilemma. I scratch built the two skylights and the companionway based on the plans, and built the capstan with laser-cut kit parts. When you place all of these strutures on the ship as per the plans, it is INCREDIBLY CROWDED.  The Capstan is literally wedged between the forward skylight and the companionway, so much so, to be almost useless, and that is after raising the height so that the wood bars could actually turn without hitting something. The forward skylight also is right up against the pumps, making for more cramped space.
In the attached photos, I have demonstrated the problem.  The first photo is a design that leaves the aft skylight out.The second is with all of the structures as per the plan.
By the way, I looked at some photos of the replica ship and YES, it is very crowded indeed, so the plans are accurate.
Any thoughts out there.  By the PLANS, or BASED ON HISTORY AND UTILITY??? Two skylights and the companionway, or leave out one of the skylights and give the crew some room to maneuver???