6ohiocav
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6ohiocav got a reaction from JerryTodd in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Galley Pipe
I decided to scrap the Brittania galley pipe and make my own. I decided to turn the cone and pipe on the mini lathe out of holly. I then cut brass straps from the kit supplied inventory to act as brackets for the top. Using a drop of medium CA and with a lot of patience, I was able to position the three brackets in good enough position to square up the top. Some flat black paint and a wooden base with my red paint mix and I can scratch this one off the list. Took all night - one little part.
Sorry about the poor quality of the photos.
The pipe is so delicate that I will attach it to the ship at the very end of the build. It is only setting on the deck. I can see myself knocking that over
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6ohiocav got a reaction from mtaylor in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
And after further reading of the plans, (gee why would I be smart enough to do that) I may have perhaps answered my first question. Seems that the tye sheaves are for the royal and topgallant yard lifts - duhhh. And yes, it would appear that an elongated hole will suffice.
Still looking for advice on belaying the stays though.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from GuntherMT in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
"TYE" Sheaves???
While I work on the galley pipe, here is a question that I simply can't answer, despite some research.
What on earth is a "tye" sheave. My plans call on for them on the fore and main topgallant/royal masts. I have attached a photo of the plans. I understand what a sheave is, and I especially get what a "dumb" sheave is (I am good at dumb). Is this a special type of sheave/pulley system? Can it be accomplished by simply drilling a hole. The small diameter of these masts do not present a great platform for a true pulley sheave.
AND that begs another question. Focusing soley on the Foremast for this one, I note that the topgallant and Flying Jib Stay belay somehow to the fore topallant/royal mast near or at one of these "tye" sheaves. DO THEY? and if so, how do you actually tie it off. IF NOT, how do I tie it off to the mast, and if they don't, what does tie into the tye sheave. The back Stays?
The same question for the royal stay?
Finally, I also note that the halliard runs through a block near the lower tye sheave. Since I am not attaching sales, should I (does anyone) rig the halliard?
Am i making any sense?
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6ohiocav got a reaction from JerryTodd in Constellation 1856 by JerryTodd - 1:36 scale - RADIO - First Class Sloop of War
Jerry,
Seeing your beautiful ship take the water was going to rid me of the urge to put my Niagara in the bath tub to see if it actually floats.
I hope you get another chance soon, and I can't wait to see the results.
Garryowen!
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6ohiocav got a reaction from mtaylor in Constellation 1856 by JerryTodd - 1:36 scale - RADIO - First Class Sloop of War
Jerry,
Seeing your beautiful ship take the water was going to rid me of the urge to put my Niagara in the bath tub to see if it actually floats.
I hope you get another chance soon, and I can't wait to see the results.
Garryowen!
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6ohiocav got a reaction from Elijah in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
And after further reading of the plans, (gee why would I be smart enough to do that) I may have perhaps answered my first question. Seems that the tye sheaves are for the royal and topgallant yard lifts - duhhh. And yes, it would appear that an elongated hole will suffice.
Still looking for advice on belaying the stays though.
-
6ohiocav got a reaction from mtaylor in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
"TYE" Sheaves???
While I work on the galley pipe, here is a question that I simply can't answer, despite some research.
What on earth is a "tye" sheave. My plans call on for them on the fore and main topgallant/royal masts. I have attached a photo of the plans. I understand what a sheave is, and I especially get what a "dumb" sheave is (I am good at dumb). Is this a special type of sheave/pulley system? Can it be accomplished by simply drilling a hole. The small diameter of these masts do not present a great platform for a true pulley sheave.
AND that begs another question. Focusing soley on the Foremast for this one, I note that the topgallant and Flying Jib Stay belay somehow to the fore topallant/royal mast near or at one of these "tye" sheaves. DO THEY? and if so, how do you actually tie it off. IF NOT, how do I tie it off to the mast, and if they don't, what does tie into the tye sheave. The back Stays?
The same question for the royal stay?
Finally, I also note that the halliard runs through a block near the lower tye sheave. Since I am not attaching sales, should I (does anyone) rig the halliard?
Am i making any sense?
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6ohiocav got a reaction from mtaylor in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Thanks Ken,
wood top and brass tube is the plan. I hope it turns out half as good as yours did.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from mtaylor in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Guys,
Borrowing a photo from XKen's Niagara build, this is what Mike and I are trying to accomplish. Ken was able to turn a brass conical top to his stack with his engine lathe. I don't have that capacity, so I will try and build one of these out of Holly and paint it.
The figure on the left is the kit supplied stack. Not very authentic in my view (and in the view of nearly every other Niagara builder).
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6ohiocav got a reaction from Canute in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Thanks Ken,
wood top and brass tube is the plan. I hope it turns out half as good as yours did.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from Canute in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Guys,
Borrowing a photo from XKen's Niagara build, this is what Mike and I are trying to accomplish. Ken was able to turn a brass conical top to his stack with his engine lathe. I don't have that capacity, so I will try and build one of these out of Holly and paint it.
The figure on the left is the kit supplied stack. Not very authentic in my view (and in the view of nearly every other Niagara builder).
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6ohiocav got a reaction from mtaylor in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
I could turn a small cone with out much problem. Interestingly enough, when turned and sanded, holly looks a lot like styrene. No grain at all. I will give it a try tonight and post some pictures.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from mtaylor in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Mike,
You did give me an idea. I could make this out of wood on my mini lathe. My supply of Holly would turn out a pretty smooth surface that when painted, would look like metal (I think). I am going to give that a try and get back to you with photos.
Any turning of metal or brass stock would require the use of an engine lathe. My equipment is only for wood, although I have access to large metal turning engine lathes. IF we were to do this in brass, we might be better off if we stamped the conical top, although finding a proper die (which we may be able to create with the very tip of a large drill bit bored into metal stock) would be required. I think I will try that too.
DOES ANYONE OUT THERE HAVE ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS???
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6ohiocav got a reaction from GuntherMT in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Mike,
Once again, we think a like. The Galley Pipe is going to be a challenge. We are going to need XKen's advice on how to create that cone shaped top. I have looked at his log, and he made one from brass, but i can't figure out how he did it. It looks great. I have been avoiding that project.
I am still trying to decide how to tie off the lanyards for the bullseyes. I have also pretty much decided to abandon the kit supplied rope for the standing rigging. The black spools are all way out of size, and is so stiff that when it is stretched, you can still see the folds. I have tried to soak it in hot water, and it really does not help. I am going to order new rope and will start rigging as soon as it arrives.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from abelson in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Further work on Bowsprit
I spent the last few days rigging bullseyes and hearts to the bowsprit and jib boom.
I tied on the brace and spritsail yard lift blocks. I tied on the bobstay bullseye. I also created the bowsprit shroud collar with bullseyes and attached that. I would suggest that you do that BEFORE you attach the jib boom to the bowsprit.
I also prepared the open hearts for the forestay and fore preventer stays. I created the grove with a micro-file and stained the laser cut plart with some cherry stain. After seeing photos, I decided to serve the rope for the collars. This gave me a chance to try out my Syren Serving Machine. I'll be darned but the simple machine works great. Making the rope was one thing, but wrapping it around the bowsprit and lashing it together was a test in patience and dexterity- something that I don't have enough of. I am getting better though.
Once done, a came across a signature part of the build- installing the bowsprit assembly. I think I did everything I could do before attaching it, and if not, at least it is now secured to the ship instead of a vice. I then lashed the timber to the bow. Another tedious job.
And yes, mywork table is big enough.
I will be working on the lower fore mast next to get it prepared for stepping and begin the rigging process in earnest.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from Elijah in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Hey Mike,
It is amazing how we are facing the very same challenges. My bowsprit with the cleats JUST fits in that opening. I have to contort it in an exact way to get it to pass. I had to open the hole a little to even up the angle from port to starboard. I also painted the inside with flat black.
My choice of order was based on the ad hoc survey I sent out. the majority said to rig from front to back - bottom to top. It makes sense. seems like most Niagara builders chose this method.
By the way, does anyone know the best way to tie off lanyards for bullseyes. I have seen them lashed to themselves or sometimes frapped.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from Elijah in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
I could turn a small cone with out much problem. Interestingly enough, when turned and sanded, holly looks a lot like styrene. No grain at all. I will give it a try tonight and post some pictures.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from Elijah in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Mike,
You did give me an idea. I could make this out of wood on my mini lathe. My supply of Holly would turn out a pretty smooth surface that when painted, would look like metal (I think). I am going to give that a try and get back to you with photos.
Any turning of metal or brass stock would require the use of an engine lathe. My equipment is only for wood, although I have access to large metal turning engine lathes. IF we were to do this in brass, we might be better off if we stamped the conical top, although finding a proper die (which we may be able to create with the very tip of a large drill bit bored into metal stock) would be required. I think I will try that too.
DOES ANYONE OUT THERE HAVE ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS???
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6ohiocav got a reaction from Canute in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Mike,
You did give me an idea. I could make this out of wood on my mini lathe. My supply of Holly would turn out a pretty smooth surface that when painted, would look like metal (I think). I am going to give that a try and get back to you with photos.
Any turning of metal or brass stock would require the use of an engine lathe. My equipment is only for wood, although I have access to large metal turning engine lathes. IF we were to do this in brass, we might be better off if we stamped the conical top, although finding a proper die (which we may be able to create with the very tip of a large drill bit bored into metal stock) would be required. I think I will try that too.
DOES ANYONE OUT THERE HAVE ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS???
-
6ohiocav got a reaction from mtaylor in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Mike,
Once again, we think a like. The Galley Pipe is going to be a challenge. We are going to need XKen's advice on how to create that cone shaped top. I have looked at his log, and he made one from brass, but i can't figure out how he did it. It looks great. I have been avoiding that project.
I am still trying to decide how to tie off the lanyards for the bullseyes. I have also pretty much decided to abandon the kit supplied rope for the standing rigging. The black spools are all way out of size, and is so stiff that when it is stretched, you can still see the folds. I have tried to soak it in hot water, and it really does not help. I am going to order new rope and will start rigging as soon as it arrives.
-
6ohiocav got a reaction from iiihmb in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Further work on Bowsprit
I spent the last few days rigging bullseyes and hearts to the bowsprit and jib boom.
I tied on the brace and spritsail yard lift blocks. I tied on the bobstay bullseye. I also created the bowsprit shroud collar with bullseyes and attached that. I would suggest that you do that BEFORE you attach the jib boom to the bowsprit.
I also prepared the open hearts for the forestay and fore preventer stays. I created the grove with a micro-file and stained the laser cut plart with some cherry stain. After seeing photos, I decided to serve the rope for the collars. This gave me a chance to try out my Syren Serving Machine. I'll be darned but the simple machine works great. Making the rope was one thing, but wrapping it around the bowsprit and lashing it together was a test in patience and dexterity- something that I don't have enough of. I am getting better though.
Once done, a came across a signature part of the build- installing the bowsprit assembly. I think I did everything I could do before attaching it, and if not, at least it is now secured to the ship instead of a vice. I then lashed the timber to the bow. Another tedious job.
And yes, mywork table is big enough.
I will be working on the lower fore mast next to get it prepared for stepping and begin the rigging process in earnest.
-
6ohiocav got a reaction from Canute in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Hey Mike,
It is amazing how we are facing the very same challenges. My bowsprit with the cleats JUST fits in that opening. I have to contort it in an exact way to get it to pass. I had to open the hole a little to even up the angle from port to starboard. I also painted the inside with flat black.
My choice of order was based on the ad hoc survey I sent out. the majority said to rig from front to back - bottom to top. It makes sense. seems like most Niagara builders chose this method.
By the way, does anyone know the best way to tie off lanyards for bullseyes. I have seen them lashed to themselves or sometimes frapped.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from Canute in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Scott,
Thanks for stopping in.
For my hatches, I cut blocks of balsa wood to the proper size of each, and used strip wood cut with 45 degree angles to wrap around the blocks. This maintained proper size and kept them square. It also provided a solid base for assembly. As long as you don't glue the strip wood to the balsa block, it works. Once done, I glued a thin strip ledge for the grating.
Hope this helps.
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6ohiocav got a reaction from GuntherMT in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Completed Bowsprit/jib Assembly
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6ohiocav got a reaction from GuntherMT in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Bowsprit and Bowsprit Yard Assembly, Lashings and Preliminary Rigging.
Now that I have some bullseyes, I was able to prepare the Bowsprit, Jib and Bowsprit Yard for assembly and rigging.
I seized my bullseyes onto eyebolts and inserted them into the bow.
I created the brass collar for the jib and assembled the bowsprit. I lashed the assembly with kit supplied rope.
I created the sling for the bowsprit yard and secured it to the bowsprit.
This weekend, I will continue to hang the remaining bullseyes and hearts to the bowsprit assembly and once complete, attach it to the hull.
The pictures I show only have it set in place.
Very tedious and time consuming. However, set in place makes this actually look like a real ship.
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